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Littlef

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Posts posted by Littlef

  3. Posted · Edited by Littlef · Report reply

    On 4/12/2024 at 10:24 PM, Bert03241 said:

    Hmm adding a welt. I'm gonna cut apart the first one I did and see if adding a welt will make it big enough. Thanks for that Idea:thumbsup:

    My foam is 6 mm so I don't think I'm gonna dbl it LOL

    Good Luck! - One thing on doubling the foam.  What I was finding is the foam can fold and make almost a 90 degree turn, whereas leather makes a larger curved radius when folding it, which takes more material to round the bend.  When I glued 2 foam sheets together its much stiffer, and makes a larger radius when folding it over.  It was more a factor of how the dual layers bend and fold that helped me, versus just a matter of really how thick they are.  Although when I make holsters, I'm using 8-10 oz weight + 2-3oz liner, so its pretty thick.  

  4. Posted · Report reply

    One thing I do when I make a foam mock up of a pattern, I bond two sheets of foam together.  The extra thickness, and stiffness of the two layers, makes a more realistic radius when I fold over the holster to sew the two sides together.   - Another thing I've found, if I happen to cut out a holster, and it winds up being too short to sew when I fold it over.  I can add a welt .... a thick welt up to like 1/2 inch, and make up the difference.  Then the two sides don't have to stretch so much to come together. 

  5. Posted · Report reply

    26 minutes ago, SUP said:

    That is in fact what I needed - which polish to look for. Now I have some idea -that polishes are categorized based on the hardness of the metal being polished. Never done anything with metal, so naturally I am absolutely clueless :blink:, but slowly learning, with the patient help from all you kind people.

    I don't plan to buff the faces of the stamps - they have to remain sharp. Not sure how I will protect them. Let's see. 

    Thank you @Littlef, for your input.:)

     

    something like this.  a brand name doesn't matter.  RYOBI Metal Cleaning Compound Set (6-Piece) A92601 - The Home Depot  .  Home Depot has a little set with various compounds for different metal types.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    1 minute ago, SUP said:

    @Littlef, I will buff the groover today. it appears to be iron, no idea what it is combined with though. It rusts very slowly, not the fast  surface coating of rust that I see with other iron or steel items.  Reminds me a bit of the Ashok Pillar - an iron with high Phosphorus content.  Will metal polish be sufficient to protect it after cleaning? Do you have any recommendations for brand? 

    I do not plan to buff the stamps. Just warm evaporust until clean. That has never failed as yet!  After that, do I use polish on them as well? Or anything else? There is not much chrome left on those pieces, else they would not rust. 

     

    No, I don't have a recommendation on a type of polish.  just look for a metal polish that is for iron and steel. - the aggressiveness of the polish is typically categorized by the hardness of the metal they are intended to polish.  You could buff the handle/shaft of the stamps to clean them up, but I would avoid the face.  you could use a polish or a wax to give them some protection.  I would avoid putting wax or polish on the face of the stamp.  I would expect that would just attract dirt that would get transferred to the leather.  

  7. Posted · Report reply

    +1 on evaporust for rust removal.  I use it all the time.  From there, I would possibly go over it with some finish sandpaper  - 400 grit would probably do it.  Or, if it doesn't need sanding, I'd hit it with some metal polish and a felt buffing pad on my dremel.  If its iron, you'd want to use a more aggressive polishing compound.  probably green -- or whatever color the compound manufacturer made for iron/steel. 

     

    I wouldn't buff out the ends of stamps.  That would only round off the details in the stamp.  Evaporust would still remove rust, but if they don't work satisfactorily after that, they might be at the end of their service life.  You could always try buffing them, but just keep in mind, the more buffing, the more definition in the stamp would be lost.

  13. Posted · Edited by Littlef · Report reply

    13 hours ago, MarshalWill said:

    LOL, the one I made with the rawhide lining was a Pale Rider rig. Maybe the cylinder holder will give you some ideas.

    1919286624_DSCN1923(copy).JPG.358a741941d0624823d824cb4066bcae.JPG

    Looking forward to yours.

     

    yea, that's a very similar in concept! looks good.  thanks. 

  15. Posted · Report reply

    That's definitely a unique knife, and a good looking rig.  I'm not sure why she would want to have the gun behind her back.  Having a gun in the small of your back is a good place for concealed carry, but its not very concealed when wearing a full gun belt.  As long as it works for her.  It looks great, and I'm sure she'll be thrilled with it.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I haven't ever seen plated rivets. I would guess that plating might be compromised when setting a rivet.  They do make brass rivets.  I know some people cut a thin leather washer, and glue it over a rivet sometimes.  That can be helpful on a rivet head inside a holster, to ensure it doesn't scratch a firearm.  For an exterior rivet head, I normally take a needle file and clean off any burrs.  If I'm feeling ambitious, I might take some fine sand paper and lightly sand the head to smooth any edges.

    to color a copper rivet you can use brass black or cold bluing to subdue it.  I'd recommend doing the cold blue first, then clean up the rivet, and then set it.  I had a rifle stock cheek riser that I riveted some bullet loops on it.  I used the cold blue after the fact.  Copper oxidation is green.  some of that green bled into the surrounding leather.  Live and learn that its best to oxidize first, clean up the copper, and then set it.

     

    - another option might be to use a Chicago screw instead of a rivet.  Those come is many different finishes.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    24 minutes ago, SUP said:

    @Littlef I know. I know I have to write it off. And I know nothing about making saddles. So I cannot make a new one from the pattern either. I feel rather sad about it.

     

    since its basically trash, as-is, you could always cut  the seams and see if you could take it apart.  once you got it apart you could determine if its worth even attempting to replicate.  It doesn't look like a real saddle for use on a horse. If its just going to be more of a  decoration type piece, it wouldn't have to be 100% structural.     - Or you could just trash it, and move on with life.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Mold is really hard to get rid of.  It grows roots/tendrils that grow and extend throughout an area.  you can try vinegar. bleach can help, but then you are bleaching the leather.  There are anti mold products at the hardware store that you could try, but they might also discolor the leather.  That leather also looks like is rotting (from what I can see in the photo.)   I think the damage is done, and at this point, I don't think there's a way to return the leather to an acceptable state.  It would probably have to be rebuilt from new leather.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    13 hours ago, SUP said:

    He is teaching how to refine skills, yes, which is precisely why I want to take those classes. I do know tooling and have done it, just not to a great extent.    While I have some 40-50 stamps and sufficient swivel knives, I do not have all those required for extensive tooling or all those in the list, . But I do want to learn more so I can decide whether it is something I want to invest in or do further. 

    I am at least planning to go refine my swivel knife skills. 

     

    If you don't have everything, maybe you could pick up a handful of pieces that seem most interesting/useful to you, to try and get the most out of the class.

    also, there's a lot of similarities in the types of stamps.  Maybe if you don't have the exact stamp listed, but have a similar style/type, you could substitute it, to work on the technique, even if its not the exact stamp.    If you show up with "most" of the stuff, he "might" have a few extra tools, and he might let you borrower one.  I wouldn't bank on it, but if you get in the class, and they are working with a tool you don't have,  it doesn't hurt to ask, and say that a tool you haven't bought yet.  -just a few thoughts.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    My impression is that Jim Linnell isn’t teaching a beginner class.  Tandy might provide tools for their classes, because they expect  beginners will need tools, and will buy tools.  Jim is teaching a class to help experienced leather workers refine their craft.  He’s there to teach and not peddle Tandy tools.  It’s hard to teach how to use a tool, if you don’t have the tool.  It would be a pain to lug the slab, but also Jim isn’t going to haul around 30 slabs of granite.  
     

    there always books and  youtube if this particular class requisites don’t work for you.  Maybe at some point in the future you will build up the tool chest where having the requisite tools isn't overwhelming to buy at once.  They certainly add up fast. 

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I don't pitch mine.  every now and then I strain out any big junk floating in it.  It can turn reddish and murky, but I've not noticed that changes how it works.  If it seems like its weakening, I add a little more vinegar, and a bit more steel wool.   BUT, in only takes 2-3 days to bring a new batch up to a workable strength, if you don't feel like hanging on to it.   

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