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Beanwood

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About Beanwood

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bristol, England
  • Interests
    Beekeeping, Dog Training, Sewing dog stuff

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    Sewing stuff thicker than Denim, and making stuff that looks more professional
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google
  1. You can use an arbor press - I have 3 small ones set up for cutting ends of leather/webbing, cutting holes, and pressing in rivets/press studs. They're cheap enough to buy, and make life really easy.
  2. The check spring you've put in - is it actually moving? It needs to start in the position shown in red, then move up to where it's shown in your photo. It returns to the red position, keeping the thread tension when the take up lever drops down again..
  3. I think as it comes down from the first tension pulley to the second, it should go direct, not around the 'hook'. Once around the botttom tension disc, that's when you go through the bottom hook, and check spring (That appears to be missing). Are you sure it's seated into the tension discs, and not just sat around the edges. (If they're too tight, it may not be all the way 'in') Are we allowed to link to You tube on here ? If so, look at this, about 1:30 in and onwards.
  4. Assuming this is still the Rex from the other topic - and that's the top thread that's loose? So tighten the top thread tension just a bit should help?
  5. I'm only an amateur compared to most on here, but I think your top tension needs to tighten a litle to bring the knot more central in the leather.
  6. I need to do something similar from time to time - but also need to move the folder out of the way - so use a magnetic guide - effectively it's a couple of strong magnets on a bar. Sailrite sells one - but like you I'm in the UK, so made my own. I've just checked and someone on E bay sells them in UK if that helps (Go for the 6" long to give a better guide) FORGET THIS - I've just re-read the OP, and you want to attach a folder, not an edge guide.... (Sorry )
  7. Thanks - unfrotunately the 135x17 won't fit - the shank is too large, hence wanting to swap the needle bar. Following your post though, I see I can get larger size with the same 1.63mm shank - so that's worth a look. I have missed the obvious though - measuring what the maximum stroke of the machine is at the moment, and whether I can get a longer needle (Do they exist?) in 16x95.
  8. Thanks - that's the one I've been using, allied with the Sailrite one https://www.sailrite.com/Selecting-the-Right-Thread-Size
  9. Thanks - some good points there. I agree with you - with the stroke being driven by crank - I coudn't see an easy way of increasing it - hence my surprise that it was apparently done by @GPaudler and wondering how he managed to sew 12mm rope - as I want to do!! I suppose it could be possible to increase the crank length, but that looks pretty hairy to me. Regarding thread weight - I've never managed to find a good US to UK conversion of V69 etc - but it's happy enough to sew with Metric 27 - Tex 105? so not by any means te heaviest, but not too bad. (I'll ty some M20 when get a few minutes.. It's strangely satisfying watching a 10mm ZZ in M27 thread
  10. Following on from the various threads recently about changing needle bars, I had a thought... I don't sew much leather, rather I sew webbing of various thicknesses. I had a need to sew some zigzag stitches, and ended up purchasing a Brother TZ1-B651 - it's an industrial machine, capable of 12mm zigzag, but doesn't have a walking foot, and uses really puny needles. I'm adding a pulley speed reducer (6" to 2" reduction), to reduce the speed, and increase the torque of the clutch motor, but I was thinking I'd really like to change the needle bar for something that will take the same needles as my other machines (DPX17 - I'm UK based, and that's how we know them), but I'd also like to increase the stroke, so I can join some 12mm rope. I saw a comment on here from @GPaudler that changing the stroke to do exactly this was straight forward, but as he hasn't been back on since 2018, I can't ask him... So, 2 initial questions: 1. Is the replacement needle bar simply a case of getting a DPX17 bar with the same dimensions? 2. Does anyone have a link to anywhere that might show me how to increase stroke length please? I know the answer is probably to spend £1200+ buying a pre-owned machine that will do the job proerly, but I'm starting up a new business, and funds are tight right now for what may not work out anyway.. Thanks for reading.
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