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MainiacMatt

Members
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About MainiacMatt

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Maine
  • Interests
    woodworking, leather working, upholstery

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    upholstery
  • Interested in learning about
    leather holster making
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google
  1. Can someone please tell me what I have here? I'm stumped.
  2. Looks a lot like a Sailrite Fabricator to my eye...
  3. Going rate for a new 206RB-5 seams to be -$1,500-1,600 shipped. I’d be very interested in knowing where one can be had cheaper.
  4. I looked into the Sailrite LW and it looks pretty spiffy and their support sure is highly praised. But when I discovered that you can get a new compound feed industrial for the same $ (or less), I moved on with my search. This isn't intended to take away from Sailrite in any way, as service and support have real value. Just adding another factoid to the discussion.
  5. I priced a box style speed reducer today. $240 shipped. I suspect I’ll be buying it at the same time I buy the machine, and install looks like a no brainer.
  6. I know this is an old thread, but I thought it was funny that I just had a dealer in New England tell me pretty much the same thing... "can't change the pulley on Consew CSM550-1 servo motor" & "no need to put a speed reducer on a Consew 206RB-5" Guy seems to only deal with larger commercial outfits and only sells industrial machines. So the mystery continues.
  7. Any one ever heard of an Ikonix KS-5618? I'm guessing this is a clone. Any ideas what model it might be similar too?
  8. Me again... researching my first industrial machine, with an emphasis on leather upholstery work (piped seams, French seams, zippers, etc...). Is sewing flat work on a cylinder arm machine with a well designed and large table attachment just the same as sewing on a flat bed? Or is is frustrating? I do machine design at work and a quite a bit of woodworking, and have access to a CNC router, so making a large, close fitting top is within my capabilities. But I've never sewn on a cylinder arm machine, so i don't know if there are other problems or hinderances using one for sewing panels and seams on cushions. Thanks in advance for all the help, Matt
  9. Thanks for the detailed reply. That's got to be it.... (the guy had a pretty good Massachusetts accent and scribbled down guide in my notes). So now that I know the correct terminology, is it a big deal that bottom bobbins don't have this same style needle deflector/guard? Seems like there sure are a lot of them out there, so it's hard to imagine that it's a huge shortcoming.
  10. His point was that I’d want a “needle guide” to avoid damaging the hook, should the needle flex. I’m visiting to look at machines next week. It’ll probably all make sense then.
  11. Thanks for the reply. I spoke to another dealer, who said front load bobbin machines do have a needle guide, but it’s different. Does any of this make sense? Or is it a non-issue?
  12. In my quest for a leather sewing machine, I spoke to the owner of a sizeable industrial machine dealer that's well regarded in these parts. Guy has been around a long time and sells and services all the major brands. To make leather upholstered furniture cushions, I described the machine parameters I was look for as: needle feed/walking foot up to #138 bonded nylon thread stitching up to 6 layers of 3 oz. leather (4 for sewing piped edges, 6 at the piping splice) servo motor with slow speed As we discussed various machines, he advised me to stay with a top loading bobbin model as they have a needle guide (not sure what a needle guide even is) and that when stitching multiple layers of leather the needle will tend to flex and there's potential to damage the hook in a front load bobbin machine. So, my question to the forum is... how much of an issue is having a needle guide when stitching leather upholstery? I've seen that the needle does tend to flex to the side when I've sewn tight up against the piping. Yet there are a lot of end loading bobbin machines out there being used by leather workers and I'm having a hard time envisioning that they're all getting damaged for want of a needle guide. Inquiring minds want to know...
  13. I'm spying an Adler 67-373 available second hand in my area, and am wondering if this machine is compound/needle feed or just top/bottom walking foot feed. The guy in the video above is blasting through the test stitches so fast, I can't tell. Anyone know for sure?
  14. Yes... The Singer 66 seems to take "standard" foot attachments and I had no problem sewing up the piping . And I could sew the piping to the end panels, but that's as far as I could go, due to the machine stalling when attempting 4 layers. A local guy who specializes in replacing zippers in coats helped me finish it up, but not all of his seams were straight and the top corners of the back rest look funny. I work for an industrial packaging company that has a foam fab. shop, so I'm able to source and CNC wire cut foam on the cheap... So I'm looking for a compound feed machine that could handle the leather sewing, and then I'd have control over the entire process. Next up is a matching Ottoman and Coffee table. Then I may build another set on speculation and see if I can sell it. Sadly, Skipper has since gone to the happy hunting grounds. I miss him every day.
  15. Hi Folks, New member here. I make Mission style furniture and am setting up to upholster my own leather cushions. I sewed up most of my first project on a modified Singer 66, but had to get a local sewer to finish sewing the assembly as my 66 couldn't do 4+ layers of 3 oz. hide. Nonetheless, the project went fairly well. I purchased my hide from an ebay seller, and while I was pleased with the quality of of the material, it had creases from being folded for shipping. Is there any way to remove such creases?
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