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TBCleather

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About TBCleather

  • Rank
    New Member

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  • Website URL
    @tbcleathercraft instagram

Profile Information

  • Location
    Centerton, Arkansas
  • Interests
    Little bit of everything

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Bags, wallets, sheaths, occasional saddle repair
  • Interested in learning about
    Everything
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google, pretty much every time I had a question there was some sort of answer here.

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  1. That is extremely helpful, thank you
  2. When I originally got the machine it was balanced. I hit some random piece of what I think was rawhide inside a piece of cheap veg tan a year or so ago (previous owner left some screws a bit loose), It threw a couple things out of whack and after I fixed that, I remember messing around with a cam in the bottom because it was stitching in reverse (when I meant for it to go forward). It was larger with an eccentric lobe or linkage and part of what I think is the safety disconnect. Maybe i adjusted it too far or not far enough?
  3. I’ve got a Brother LS-2 B-837, I have an issue with the reverse stitch being too short. All the manual says about reverse stitch is that “it’s dependent on the forward stitch length”. So I adjusted the forward stitch length according to the manual. It sews up to 8mm accurately and the reverse more or less works at this length. I tend to stitch around 3-5mm with 207 and 277 bonded nylon, at this length the reverse is almost exactly half the forward length. The machine never came with a reverse lever stop, but has a place for one. I notice that at 8mm it “bumps” when fully depressed as though it’s rubbing against something but i cannot figure out what it is. Is it possible, without the stop, the lever can be depressed so far that it causes the length to shorten instead of match? I cannot find any videos or posts related to this exact machine, it says it was made in Japan by seiko. The casting is almost identical in shape to a cobra class 26, but it’s a flatbed like a class 20, it also has the same stitch length dial and reverse lever position as the class 20. If anyone knows of a video addressing stitch length on a similar machine with a different manufacturer or branding I can work with that or maybe a link to the cobra manuals? Thanks
  4. So I somehow tricked my Brother LS2-B837 in to reliably using 346 top and bottom and I had a question about Nylon thread. I’ve purchased multiple spools from different places: 207, 277, 346 from mandala crafts on amazon. 277 and 346 from Maine thread company. And some 277 from Amazon with no branding other than “Nylon 66”. They all claim to be bonded thread, but the mandala craft stuff is multiple twisted chords of bundled fibers and a softer feel, the Maine and random Amazon stuff appears to be twisted monofilaments, with a stiff feel. Also the stiffer thread feels and looks thinner than the softer stuff but looks the same after stitched, I’m guessing that’s a stretch thing. I guess my question is: Is it common to have different tempers and construction styles between different manufacturers (or suppliers in this case, it’s probably all Chinese) and still claim it’s bonded nylon? And is one better than the other for some reason?
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