CalgaryJim
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Posts posted by CalgaryJim
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On 2/19/2025 at 8:51 AM, dirk87 said:
I learned allot from leathertoolz videos, i really appreciate his effort.
Best YouTube channel on leather work in my opinion, he’s very thorough and does lots of comparisons!
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On 2/10/2025 at 10:40 AM, Beehive said:
I prefer the factory spring bars. The quick release bars are a universal sized bar. Seiko sized.
Using the Marathon watches, they have massive spring bars that are designed to fit the drilled lugs on their cases.
For me to use your quick release strap. I have to remove the spring bars you installed. The peg or lever used to release the spring bar. Has to be cut off so the spring bar can be removed out the strap. Cutting the lever also leaves a sharp edge of metal. That drags through the strap while being removed.
It's either that or the stitching has to be removed and sewn back.
On the Damasko, the spring bars are curved. Another element that needs addressed.
You are mistaken, quick release springs bars are not universal sized, and even Seiko watches don’t all use the same spring bar size. Same with Marathon, for example, my 34mm General Purpose Quartz Marathon has a fixed bar.
Quick release spring bars are easy to remove by the way, no need to break the handle off.
On 2/10/2025 at 10:51 AM, Beehive said:As a strap maker using those quick release bars.
What guarantee do you give me, that it will hold my $5000 dollar watch on my wrist, worry free?
No strap makers will give you such a guarantee.
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On 2/10/2025 at 8:34 AM, dirk87 said:
Hello all,
I recently started making watch straps as a hobby. I’m collecting allot of info and trying out different things.
I wanted to start a topic where i can share my work and findings in the hope it can be of value to someone else.
I intend to randomly post my progress and experiences on construction and finishing.Below are my 2 latest straps
1
20 to 16mm taper
Outer: buttero biscuit 0.9mm
Lining: alran sully gold 0.9mm
Inner layer: generic veg tan 0.8mm
Thread: meisi superfine linenM40 caramel
Stitching: CH 2.7mm
Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed
2
20 to 16mm taper
Outer: buttero whiskey 0.9mm
Lining: zermatt 0.9mm
Inner layer: salpa 0.4mm
Reinforcement: velodon 0.1mm
Thread: meisi superfine linen M40 cream
Stitching: CH 2.7mm
Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed
3d printed folding jig i’m using:
please leave me any comments, questions or critiques…
more to follow
Excellent work! I’ve been making leather straps as a hobby for a year and a half now and know how hard this hobby is.
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5 hours ago, DieselTech said:
Sounds good. I know padded dog collars I've seen made, are made oversized. Then they are cut to width & then stitched.
I have been wanting to try some of the Cordovan Calf. It's pretty pricey if I remember correctly.
Good to know about the dog collars, thanks.
The Cordovan calf is more expensive than other leathers I’ve bought but not nearly as expensive as shell cordovan. I have straps made from Shinki Shell Cordovan, I quite like their finish. The Cordovan calf so far looks very similar. I don’t use much leather to make watch straps so the price is fine for me…even with my two failures using it so far. Hopefully my current attempt, gluing the Velodon with two layers of Barge cement, holds. And I’m skipping the padding too.
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19 hours ago, DieselTech said:
Will the glue at the edges not hold the 2 strap pieces together to sew it? Or are you not using any type of glue.
I think the Oslo or Saba might have been better padding choices.
How thick is your top piece of leather. Is it still around 4-5oz thickness or thin like 2-3oz leather?
I have never made a padded watch strap but been meaning to give it a go.
In order to have the strap conform properly to then stitch, from every video I’ve seen, you need to press the leather down with a bone first. But maybe clamping the sides would work also.
I just realized what you are see is Salpa, it’s on top of the Microfibra, I added it because the latter didn’t provide enough thickness. I could try Salpa only though, or use natural veg tan leather which I tried once before with some success. I also bought some Saba but it’s very soft, I don’t think it would have the body I would like.
The leathers I use are 1.0mm thick, not sure what that translates to in ounces. The Cordovan calf leather is quite strong, that’s likely why I couldn’t get it to form, maybe I should try making the straps much wider, then form and stitch, then trim to shape. Or just make padded straps with softer veg tan leathers. I don’t want to have it thinner than 1.0mm though for concern about strength.
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I am having a heck of a time trying to make padded watch straps. I’ve used natural veg tan as padding, and just now I received some Luigi Carnevali - Microfibra Reinforcement from RMLS, I made it narrower than the straps but can’t get the leather to conform (flatten) enough at the sides in order to stitch the top layer and lining together. I’m using a stainless steel bone too. Maybe I need to use a thinner leather on top, or softer leather than the Minerva or Cordovan calf that I’ve tried. Any and all tips are welcomed.
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19 hours ago, fredk said:
A proper wick has a weave to it. It burns better if its the right way up. Try reversing the wick and keep it trimmed close so only a few mm are above the holder to burn. You actually do not want the wick burning but the alcohol vapours
Thank you so much! This wick has no weave at all. Now where to source one. Google is bringing up lots for oil lamps, fibreglass weaved, cotton weaved too. Is one material better than the other?
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On 4/22/2024 at 12:04 PM, TomE said:
You could try heating the crease and using it on dry leather. When the temperature is right the crease will glide with less resistance than at room temp. Too hot and it burns the grain of the leather. I use an alcohol lamp to heat the crease. You will feel the heat coming up the shank of the tool when it's about the right temp.
When I use my alcohol lamp, it gives off smoke which blackens the creaser. The wick that came with it from WUTA is some synthetic fabric. What am I doing wrong?
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On 3/19/2024 at 6:45 PM, maggielj said:
Thank you @bruce johnson. He has gotten in contact with me and is thinking that the people at the printing center had printing selections messed up. I also had the wrong email address, the new email address is cowcampsaddlery@gmail.com and for anyone who runs into this same issue these patterns are suppose to be 36x36. He has been great about helping me solve the issue even though it was not on his end.
“..saddery@ gmail”, or “saddlery”?
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I hadn’t been able to find anyone selling acrylic templates in a 20/16mm taper so contacted Buzzard Brain Leather on Etsy and the owner Will was kind enough to design a one off for me in that taper and length of 105 and 65mm. Same cost as his ready made sizes too. They arrived within a week from Louisiana to Alberta and they are very well made, unlike some Ali Express ones I received in the past (20/18 and 18/16 regular length.There is enough overhang for the spring bar and buckle flaps that I’ll be able to cut 110 and 70mm lengths as well.
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5 hours ago, Danne said:
No, the color name is oranger if I remember correctly. Another leather that could be a good choice as strap lining is "swift calf" Not possible to order from the tannery (RMG Pomari) in low quantity, but when making straps at least I don't see any problems with spending a little bit more/sq.ft and buy from a reseller, because of the small amount needed.
Thank you,
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I found someone who was willing to make me an acrylic template set for 20/16 taper, 105mm and 65mm long, Buzzard Brain Leather on Etsy. He had to make them from scratch as he didn’t have a set of drawings he could use. I’m happy to report they turned out quite well and he only charged me the same price as his regular templates.
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8 hours ago, Danne said:
Thank you. It's goat leather, Alran sully.
Thanks for the info. I’ve been using Zermatt leather for lining but I’ll have to order some Alran sully next. Did you colour it yourself?
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On 2/22/2023 at 4:07 PM, YinTx said:
Temporary/reposition-able adhesive? (aka post it note adhesive)
I think this may be a version...
Here's one of the negative reviews, with a lot of details:
Reviewed in the United States on July 12, 2018We bought this to try out in our community theater--sticking fabric to plastic and plastic to plastic. Before I ordered, I called Aleene's using the CS number their rep shared in several of the questions posted here. The young woman who answered the phone was surprisingly curt. Maybe their CS center, which answers the line under another company and then tells you they handle Aleene's, too, is a large generic center. Anyway, I told the rep what I was looking for a glue for and she seemed disinterested in what I was saying. Desperate for a glue that would work, I still ordered the product.
It arrived today & we rushed over to the center to try it out. First, when wet it's a white Elmer-like glue. I thought it dried quickly. I was wrong. We left the glue to "dry" for over 3 hours, but it remained white and liquid. We tried using it as it is on pieces we want to stay together indefinitely. It "bled" though our fabrics, staining them but not holding pieces together. And it made our plastics sticky without holding plastic to plastic. As I write this, nearly 11:30PM, I'm still waiting for the glue to dry (turn clear...).
All in all, I'll continue looking for a better product. We don't have time to wait half a day or longer for this glue to solidify/dry. And it turned out to be as messy as the old-fashioned Elmer's glue we stopped using millennia ago. When I was in school and we put on a show, we used "liquid cement" that was thick but clear and gelled very quickly (under half an hour) into a stable matrix. I wish I could find that product here on Amazon. I guess we'll keep the Aleene's for paper-on-paper glue needs, but other than that, we're very disappointed in this product. We had such high hopes.
UPDATE NEXT MORNING
The glue STILL hasn't set. It's still white and liquid. It's puddled along the base of the set pieces we used it on, creating a sticky, ugly mess. We tried vegetable oil then 85% alcohol to get the mess off. Then we tried extra-strength detergent. We finally got rid of most of the white liquid mess, but now our set pieces are ruined--fabric and plastic. And our hands are, of course, sticky and messy. This product didn't work for us at all. The only things it stuck to was our hands and the outside of surfaces it slobbered down.6 people found this helpful." -
Beautiful strap including colour combinations. What type of leather is the orange leather?
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Thank you for this level of detail! And I see the most important supply item of all, coffee
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On 9/25/2023 at 7:55 AM, CJJ said:
fair point. In my rush to give it away I forgot to take pictures of the finished product. Here's a couple in progress pics I took and a couple my buddy sent me.
Excellent stitch work!
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I'm 6 months into making my own leather watch straps. Before that, 18 months buying straps from various sources. Cheap straps (ie, under $20 US) feel cheap and will stay feeling cheap, because poor quality leather such as 'genuine leather' or even no leather at all. If you buy straps made with high quality leather, for example: Buttero, Minerva, Pueblo, these are all made by Italian tanneries; Zermatt leather by french tannery Haas, it's likely to feel comfortable right away or within a few wears. Firmer leathers will feel stiffer as mentioned above, ie, Buttero. Also, the thickness of these leathers affects their stiffness and break-in time. Many straps will have a layer(s) of reinforcement to reduce or prevent the leather from stretching over time, this could be Velodon (very thing synthetic fiber) or bonded leather such as brand names Salamander or Salpa. Bonded leather reinforcement will keep the leather feeling stiffer than Velodon because it's a lot thicker (ie, 0.4mm versus 0.05mm).
I own a strap by Colareb in Italy, it's about 2mm thick, single layer, smooth on the backside. It's quite supple. I don't wear it regularly but it's definitely stretching out in a way lined straps don't.
High quality supple leather lined with Zermatt and using Velodon will feel the most comfortable from the start. I use Salpa when I need the added thickness between my top leather and Zermatt lining. Otherwise it's Velodon.
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On 2/26/2024 at 3:10 PM, Danne said:
I thought I share this. The only thing really expensive here is the electric creaser and Ksblade irons, but the same result is possible with cheaper alternatives as mentioned.
Thanks, I'll definitely check this out.
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On 2/27/2024 at 10:42 PM, DieselTech said:
Looks good. Nice work.
What leather did you use there?
Thanks.
Thanks. It's actually some chrome tan leather from a leather store remnants bin. Too soft to be useful.
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On 2/26/2024 at 8:14 PM, NDphung said:
150$ round knife? I think you can do as well with a NT or SDI cutter which will set you back for 20$.
Which size of Tandy Pro 2.7 or 3.0 (I believe made by Since) pricking Irons did you buy? Is the size of the Maine thread matches well with your irons size and thin enough for watch strap?
9-12 prongs would be ideal and easier to prick a straighter line.
Checkout a crafter from Belgium: Atelierdecoster on Instagram. He does very nice watchstrap
I have Olfa $10 cutters and like them too.
The pricking irons are Since brand, 2.7mm. the Maine 0.02" thread works well with those. Here's a picture for you.
My fav thread though for appearance is Fil au Chinois 832, it's about 0.4mm thick, looks beautiful.
Thanks for the Belgium tip!
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On 2/26/2024 at 4:48 PM, DieselTech said:
Thanks. I appreciate the informed run down of tools. I had a feeling a grand was a touch low on my estimate.
$1,400 CAD is about $1,000 US when you convert at retail and take into account transaction fee credit cards charge. So you're able to do it for tools. But then supplies cost me another a few hundred believe it or not. And then there's the leather of course
You'll have money in shipping from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply to within the US of that's where you live. Free shipping on orders over $100 there, and no Duty or Brokerage fees either. Those three costs have cost me a lot of money being in Canada.
If I get ambitious I'll update my spreadsheet to indicate what not to buy but it won't knock a lot off the $2,500 CAD ($1,500 US) I've spent so far.
Tandy prices in the US may be better too than their stores in Canada.
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4 hours ago, Stewart said:
i bought a spray call Funkaway off of amazon. It i damn good for smoke and cat oders.. and the stay gone..
Sprayed it on the cloth and 2 hrs later the glue smell of the cloth was gone.
Thanks, I'll have to check it out.
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On 2/15/2024 at 3:22 PM, DieselTech said:
CalgaryJim is there any watch strap speciality tools you have bought on your watch strap journey?
I have been looking into the idea of making watch straps, & I kind of figured it would cost at least a $1000 dollars on quality tools to make watch straps.
Do you think that is a accurate figure?
Thanks.
These are all in Canadian dollars but I bought a $50 Weaver 24mm Japanese skiving knife, it works well for me, a $95 Tandy Pro 35mm skiving knife that is very hard metal so I'll have to really work at sharpening it, a $40 35mm skiving knife from Japan (leathercrafttools.com) which works well enough, a $20 adjustable width creaser from Tandy, a $150 very nice quarter round knife from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply which I use for cutting but not skiving, a $20 edge groover which I don't use anymore because I've heard it's not a good idea, you expose the unprotected leather, $100 Tandy Pro French pricking irons (6 and 2 prong set), Tandy poundo board, Tandy folding self-healing cutting mat, Tandy 6x6" granite slab, edge bevelers ($50 Tandy Pro and $20 Weaver), wing divider, a $25 round hollow hole multi-hole punch from Wuta Leather, plus some other tools.
Actually, although not entirely updated, this pdf document shows over $1,400 CAD when you include the multitude of small dollar items.
As per my first paragraph, some I don't use anymore as they aren't good quality or aren't needed for me making watch straps.
I see some Maine thread is miscategorized as tools, should be supplies.
Degermann Baranil Leather Watch Straps
in Show Off!!
Posted · Edited by CalgaryJim
I hadn’t used this leather before so I ordered some from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. It’s harder to skive than I’m used to with veg tanned leather. I also for the first time used inverse pricking irons as well as regular ones, also from RMLS. Those leave holes that are more oblong than the rectangular holes I get with my Tandy Pro pricking irons. I prefer the latter shape but Tandy doesn’t sell inverse ones. Happy with the results though except that I just noticed the stitching on the shirt strap is angled outward, on the long strap it’s angled inwards, lol.
2.7mm pricking irons, 1mm Degermann Baranil Leather, Velodon reinforcement fabric, 1mm Haas’s Zermatt leather for the liner, Tandy Eco Flex Edge Coat edge paint, 0.45mm RMLS waxed linen thread, Barge All Purpose cement.
Unfortunately I only have this photo of the straps ready to be given to a watchmaker friend as a thank you gift.