Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Talfuchre

  • Rank
  1. I STILL use this. Thank you so much. Jason
  2. Hello all. I would like to ask you all who do (or have done) hand stitching and ask about what thread to pick up. I use primarily 8 ounce or so leather and am getting into inlays and thinner items around 2 to 3 ounce leather or so. I have been using Tandy Leather's stitching awl thread (with is a 3 cord Nylon type cordage) and have found that to work well for the borders of my sheath and the like. I have been trying to discern what weight it is and thing it is right around a 207 weight cord. In trying to determine what to use I have been suggested to use a Linen from Barbours but again I am having trouble discerning the weight of these threads as well. So - I am asking those who do hand sewing - what cords and weights do you use in your hand stitching? What would you recommend for the applications I am trying to use them for? Thanks a ton. TF
  3. Great Feedback - that makes sense. Don't know why I couldn't wrap my head around it....
  4. Oh - you are saying an existing dog collar. I just have a measurement - I was hoping there was a rule of thumb here - or a person who has made them who knows how long to cut them. Thanks! TF
  5. I have been bending leather for some time - and have made quite a few basic dog collar for friends. When I did - I generally uses an existing collar of theirs, cut off the hardware - and used the existing collar for measurement. Thus - I have always had a baseline to work with. However - I have one in another state that I cannot measure. When making a dog collar - how do you cut the dog collar to the right length and put the holes in the proper places to ensure a good fit when you only have a neck measurement? What is your process? Thanks so much, TF
  6. Cameroo, I primarily make sheaths for guys who carry in the woods - bushcrafters. I try VERY hard to keep it simple - and have learned that simple - is HARD. Thank you so much for the compliment - that is exactly what I was going for. TF
  7. I owe a lot to this forum - but have not posted in a long time. You all really helped me out when I was getting started. I am still learning a lot - but thought I would post up just a few of my most recent: This customer wanted a worn look - with a red welt: Just a few to say thanks for all the help fellas... TF
  8. Max, I have always understood on a sheath or any piece that may get a lot of work - that you want to sink those threads to the surface so that they will not get wear. Am I wrong in thinking this? TF
  9. 8 ounce leather deep pocket bushcraft style sheath. 1/4 inch firesteel holder and a very thick welt. Convertible dangler and belt loop with 3/16th size lanyard tube. I used polyester black thread, no finish, simply Leather balm and Atom Wax. I will top it with Kiwi neutral from time to time to keep it water resistant I used a little Neatsfoot on the edges to darken them a bit and then Gum Tag and a burnishing wheel. Here is the blade for it: TF
  10. Andy, Bushcrafter types call that whittled stick a 'fuzz stick'. To get a fire going quickly - you use dry wood and cut a bunch of fire sticks and then when your spark needs kindling style fuel - you drop theses on. The increased surface area and thin fuel makes for a fast growing fire. People make these as a mark of how sharp a knife is as well. TF
  11. I made a sheath for a Bark River Knife and Tool "Aurora". This one is in classic black with only a few lines of on the loop and the dangler. I put the lanyard tube mostly for looks (to match the nickle lanyard tubes on the knife and lanyard). Close up of stitching and loop: Back: Comments and criticisms are always welcome. TF
  12. Talfuchre


    Oh yeah man - I knew it was a carving - I was just AMAZED - it was my way of saying - 'It is so good - it is almost TOO good!' TF
  13. Talfuchre


    I am saying there is no way in hell that is leather. It has to be a computer image... doesn't it? TF
  • Create New...