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  1. ok.. I had 2 success after a bit of a science experiment.. I guy in a soap making group on Facebook found a saddle soap recipe using Glycerin and it set just fine.. I then made my recipe using Kirks Castille fragrance free bars grated and that set. I am thinking substituting glycerine soap instead of Ivory (I used Castille soap) messed my ratios up.. Both set just fine... now to find an old pair of boots using one soap on one boot and the other on the alternate boot.. I am thinking they both perform equally. Just don't know which one to make now.. Any thoughts? The Glycerin soap is just a pure soap base so should not have anything harsh in it. Kirks Castille Fragrance free soap claims to be: All Natural Hypoallergenic Skin Care with No Animal By-Products or Synthetic Detergents..Pure Botanical Coconut Oil Soap so both sound like it will be fine.. Thoughts??
  2. I bought 2 Horween veg-tan 5oz straps from Buckleguy to make a stitched belt. My plan was to put velodon in between the 2 straps, glue, and stitch the belt together. This being my first belt I used some natural veg-tan to practice while waiting for the strapts to arrive. Once I received the straps I noticed that the leather itself feels a little more flimsy than my practice veg-tan belt. I have a few concerns; should I be worried about the belt stretching out or am I in the clear? I like the feel of the Horween essex but is it not a good idea to use it for a belt? Should I have purchased a Hermann Oak or W&C strap instead? Finally, any thoughts on using the Horween on the interior of the belt and a W&C strap for the exterior? Here's a link for the straps I bought. https://www.buckleguy.com/horween-essex-leather-strap-black-55-to-60-long-multiple-weights/ Thank you!
  3. I bought an Italian natural vegetable-tanned half-butt from Le Prevo about a week ago. The price seemed good. Other than some sole bend it is the first time I have bought leather from them. And probably the last. About two thirds of the leather has significant scarring. I initially hoped for an exchange to be arranged but this has not happened. Nor were they willing to arrange collection of the leather at their own expense. Instead, I am sending the leather back myself and will be refunded the total cost of the leather plus return postage. At no point has Le Prevo admitted the leather is inferior. Photos have been sent. Instead, they say they do not recall any significant scarring to the leather when it was picked and packed and that the scars are actually surface indentations resulting from damage during transit. They have wasted my time, and I now need to obtain replacement leather. I have returned an expensive, chrome-tanned back to Abbey England with no problems. As a first time customer too. Excellent service. I have also exchanged a chrome-tanned side from Metropolitan Leather that was damaged during transit. Again, excellent customer service. For potentially new customers of Le Prevo, especially those whose questions suggest lack of experience in buying leather as mine did, I would advise you to steer well clear. Scott
  4. First I'd like to say both pairs of boots look fantastic. Second I'd like to apologize for reviving an old thread. Similarly like OP, I have my eyes set on Corcoran jump boots. The brown ones are next to impossible to find in my size and of decent quality. I've been doing a lot of research on how to do this project of mine, and I made a lot of progress with my knowledge. It all started with me remembering I got a black pair in storage, and how I was hoping to strip them and dye them brown. The more modern black pairs are either the 1500 or 975. The 1500 is more accurate, but is pure black leather. The 975 is just natural leather with the top layer being black. Both have through dyed tongues. It became clear to me that both would be quite the challenge to make brown, let alone impossible. I found a group focused on these jump boots and a post on taking 60s era boots and successfully stripping the dye and making them brown. Only issue is the tutorial is a Google translated paragraph, and they didn't say what they used to do it besides scratching the edges of each leather piece right at the seam with scissors and using sandpaper and steel wool on the larger surface areas. Then brown dye and reddish brown polish. No real specifics there, and the materials to strip the dye sound like it would be easy to cut into the stitching. The finished product however looked very good. Now, I was hoping that any of you in here could guide me on how to safely strip off the old coating and dye, and if when fully stripped if I could get close to the original russet brown color. I'm very much into WWII history and always wanted brown jump boots, and using vintage boots allows the closest homage possible with the highest quality build. Also, I know it isn't leather, but the eyelets I was curious on if enamel paint would be smart to use to have them not be raw metal.
  5. You say the hide isn't great AlZilla. Let's be frank: it's awful. I've explained why I started this topic in the first place: because I suspected Le Prevo were trying to rip me off thinking me to have little or no experience of buying leather. You're wrong AlZilla in saying I didn't give David a chance to respond before starting this topic. We did correspond. And I told Le Prevo that I'd started this topic, and then resumed it. Accountability. Shouldn't leather suppliers be accountable to the folk who enable them to put food on their tables? We're buying a natural product that varies in quality. It needs to be graded. Apparently, Le Prevo grade their leather. Forum user fredk's experience of Le Prevo is this: "With Le Prevo I've bought 2nd quality, or damaged or leather with scars from them in their discounted list and I know what I'm getting. All other leathers were first rate, blemish and damage free." So why have I been sent poor quality leather on both occasions I've paid for, to use fredk's words, leather that is "first rate, blemish and damage free?" This question remains unanswered. The replacement leather that you mention? It wasn't all that great to be honest. But it was better than the first piece they sent me. Maybe it's about time leather suppliers up their game.
  6. I'm returning my second purchase of leather from Le Prevo as it's once again of an inferior quality. As before it's natural vegetable-tanned leather. But this time a shoulder rather than a half-butt. I would like to be a regular customer of Le Prevo if possible so hope this will be the last time I'm sent leather like this.
  7. I see you dyed it if you want a more natural on your next project. Do not dye it. Seal the undyed leather with tan kote
  8. @TomE My concern is that after dyeing, I need to buff and that will make the leather rough. Without buffing, the dye always spreads. I am now thinking of not dyeing at all and keeping the natural leather color. Not even neatsfoot oil because that absorbs like crazy since it is a split - like it does on the fleshy side of full grain leather. I am thinking of just burnishing it on both sides, taking care in the brand area and then deciding which side will be on the outside based on the results. The brand mark is burnt very deep on one side and if I can, I plan to put that on the outside. Let's see. I tried with dye before and after Tokonole - not good results. I tried Antiquing before Tokonole, after Tokonole, with of course a resist and not good either. Luckily, just Tokonole gives a nice enough finish. Let's see.
  9. There are a few commercial edge treatments that do OK on chrome tan - Martin's Mix and the one Sara Hagel sells. My wife uses Sara's version. I used this procedure. I applied a thin coat of acrylic finish (LeatherSheen, SuperSheen, or Mop-N-Glo). Let it dry and apply another light coat and dry. Then run some fine sandpaper over the edge until smooth. If I edge painted, then this made a nice base. If I wanted a more natural edge then I used wax (you pick - beeswax, paraffin, or Yankee wax). You can rub-rag the wax or heat it with an edge iron.
  10. Someone has requested from me a leather accordion-style file folder. The part I'm pondering most over is material for the internal dividers. I don't want to use leather just from a practical standpoint. The request is for 12 folder slots, and all that leather I feel will weigh too much and/or be too cumbersome. Ideally I'd like a natural material, i.e. not plastic. I'm thinking canvas, but wondering if it will end up being too floppy. Cardboard is also off the table because it will just end up tearing at the seams. Any ideas for a natural material that is relatively thin but has a degree of stiffness?
  11. I’ll ask for suggestions on this part: I’m trying to decide whether to dye this thing. On the one hand, I kinda like the natural look, but on the other hand, a nice brown sounds nice, with some antiquing. I’ll use dark brown Ritza 25 0.8 mm thread to stitch the notebook cover sleeve panels and the perimeter. Maybe that will contrast nicely with the natural veg tan conditioned with Obenauf’s Heavy LP, which will darken the leather a bit anyway.
  12. SUP

    Why Ritza Thread?

    Nice colors, @DieselTech. But it is natural fibre is it not? I am a little leery of that because I wear a lot of cotton and linen and they always break down within decades - the stitching as well as the cloth. Will these not do the same? About the Ritza, it knots at the base of my needles as I continue to stitch! I have stitched so much over the last year and that has never happened with any other thread. I'm a bit grumpy about it - I need to do some more stitching with that thread to complete a backpack and see myself using a pair of pliers or cutting the thread and re-threading the needles periodically.
  13. I can't understand how any dye could make leather white unless it's some kind of bleach. Reading this article, It says that dye can only darken leather, not lighten it. https://leatherninja.com/leather-dye-vs-leather-paint/ Quick Main Key Points: Leather Dye Penetration: Dye penetrates the leather, forming a chemical bond and preserving its natural characteristics. It is permanent and can darken but not lighten the leather. Leather Paint Characteristics: Paint sits on the surface of the leather, offering a wide range of colors and finishes. It is more versatile than dye but requires multiple thin coats for durability. IDk. I guess I'm thinking about it wrong. I'll have to experiment with it. I was going to do a flag on leather and I wanted to do the colors in dye for a more natural look. I'm going for a dyed look instead of that bright painted look. I'm guessing this stuff is thinly formulated acrylic paint that soaks into the pores like dye. Then is regular "non-acrylic" dye just thinly formulated paint pigment with an alcohol or oil carrier? I can make regular acrylic paint soak into the leather pores quite a bit by just soaking the leather first with water and then watering down the paint. Seems like it's some kind of word game really.
  14. Okay I resolved the issues , like I said very new to sewing machines and realized the 2 frustrating issues were as follows. The thread getting trapped where it showed on the bobbin case` was top tension issue, being to lose or tight cant` remember now as been a while, moved on to the 7-33 single needle ,The top tread was not sliding nicely across bobbin case but not really indicated on the stitch at first, something else had contributed to this issue and the other issue . I realized all my focus was on the top thread + needle +material+ and machine parts being clean and damaged free, but the bobbin thread combination with top thread was the major cause, The top thread was bonded poly nylon or something of that sort and must of had more give but after several stitches due to the bobbin thread , the bobbin thread being thinner but was old a (non) poly nylon thread due to it being left on the bobbin when bought machine not checking what was on there first` So the top tension thread had plenty of give where the old thread never and different wights so ` So the combination of the 2 wrong matching threads caused top thread to fray and snap strands hence the twisting, and constant issue with thread going around bobbin case, getting trapped and not coming up out the back in time, Once I corrected bobbin thread with same as top thread all issues were gone and machine stitched great.I had many people helping that kept telling me to check Top thread for its quality and how it comes of the spool/ correct needle and look for damage , correct tension top and bottom/ material I am using may have defects in the leather/ parts worn or damaged to machine/ check timing and feed dogs/from you tube and sites but no ever mention of matching the type of thread used as in there material make up had to match.only the thickness. But now I know I can get away with slight difference in the thickness from top and bottom but no so much the type if complete different.make up. By not replacing the bobbin thread this lead me down a rabbit hole over 2-3 weeks even stripping machine so far where I was on the verge to give up, I think lessons were learnt in my case , its natural `also taken for granted one would of replaced bobbin type thread to the same type used on top and commonsense for the average user of a sewing machinist to check what thread or even just replace bobbin thread straight away, but not to a newbie, Specially when stitching tension looked good on the material and the thread looked similar size to the naked eye and its make up , until checked later then it hit home.Its very easy to look over this specially when 99% your told to look more on the above areas, The one other lesson learnt by my self is don`t assume that the last owner has left the machine with the correct adjustment settings and the correct thread in bobbin that they gave me with the spools for on top, I never new the working of a basic function sewing machine much , but after all this I am pretty well adverse now how it works and how to set timing etc, on this basic machine, I kept telling my partner if I give up on this I would not know how to check issues with my other several vintage machines,that may be more complicated in there functions.we all start from the beginning and teaches us allot. So thank you to all helped it had been a big learning curve with machine and man.
  15. I got this side of 8-9 oz natural veg tan tooling strap a while ago, I'm just starting to use it. There are some rather obvious stripes/discolorations on it, is this normal ? How do I deal with it ? The photo does show the stripes, but they are much more obvious IRL.
  16. Hello everyone I am new in the leather work industry and I am making dog collars and leashes and sewing them by hand. But now I am interested in buying a sewing machine to speed up the process and be even more precise. I am doing some research online but it's very difficult to understand what machine will be the one perfect for me. I am working with natural leather that is 3/3.5 oz thick and/or natural leather 3oz plus a padding made with soft leather (0.8/1oz) and some foam. What would you suggest I could buy? My budget is 500/600 CAD. I found two Omega machines on e-bay that seem interesting but I read good and bad things about them at the same time (model Omega 307 and Omega walking foot WF22ZZ). Thank you a lot for your help!
  17. Looking for a leather to try and make an iPhone case. Looking for it unglazed as I want a natural patina to form. Thoughts on a leather and thickness that would be good to wet mold a phone case out of?
  18. any ideas on one I can buy a natural leather in that thickness online somewhere?
  19. I like that overall design. I tend to want to use the natural patterns of exotics on the items I'm making, but, that said I've ended up buying a variety of texturing punches over the years ... without actually learning to use them properly. So, tooling designs and instruction would be a great addition for me.
  20. Sup, by starting this thread (and the ensuing discussion from others) you have made me re-think my attitude towards using mineral oil on leather - I'm referring to the pharmaceutical/medicinal grade/baby oil of course. Up until now I've been fixated on only using natural products on leather but this thread has given me cause to have a re-think. You've done well.
  21. I love the morning glories! Only thing that jumps out at me is that pebble backgrounder. I use that one a lot. If you rotate it back and forth at random, it looks more natural. In your background you can see the repeating pattern.
  22. Yup, formed in a vaccuum bag with a "blue" gun. That works also. I prefer to do it the other way so I can cut like 4 er 6 er 10, glue and sew, form 'em as they are ordered. Just saves time, and ensures that when a customer comes back for another, or his buddy sees it and wants one, the next one is just like that one (though not identical). The purpose of that video was actually that "fade" thing SO MANY were on about for YEARS. LEather workers will take turns claiming the invented it, but Gibson Guitars made that big decades ago, calling it "sunburst". Guys were taking turns making HOUR LONG videos about it, so I thought somebody might benefit from seeing it done in 3 minutes That said, I can't find the pic of THAT holster... can't keep em ALL. But this is a G19 done the SAME WAY, but with a reinforcement panel. From this you kin prolly tell that it's not "flat", its actually curved BEYOND flat to a natural curve. This is assembled and sewn before forming.
  23. @DieselTech Other people have told me they liked the blue bags and I just can't figure out why. I really don't have an eye for aesthetics. I was gifted ~20ft^2 of blue and I thought it was the strangest thing. I know it makes a good accent color but to me it just seems weird. I can never imagine paying retail for a blue leather hide. The rest of this post is just drivel: For the right-two bags, I put almost zero effort into the straps and I found out why everyone adds two fasteners to the ends instead of one! The left-most one is for my wife. She asked for a magnetic clasp after the fact, so the only way I could think of getting it in there was riveting in a plate to cover the backs after the fact. It's also just a huge bag, like 5 square feet of material whereas the others are closer to 3 each. The yellow/brown bag actually has external pockets that aren't very deep, and I don't know how a person could use them. I made this bag to try to be fancy. It also is the only one with an internal pocket. It also has straps on the side that do nothing but help it stand up a bit for the picture. The right two were kind of speed tests. They only took me 35 minutes each. Both of the internal pockets have natural edges on the top, I thought that was cool. Things I could do: Zippered pockets, more complex pockets (with sewn lines) Zippered top, better magnetic tops, and add tabs to either top edge with push close buttons Internal keychain/clutch mounting point Cross-body strap connection & learn how to make better (adjustable) straps Higher quality: Adding the external, contrasting color straps Rolled edges (I'm not a fan of skiving by hand) Lining MultiLayer/Sewn straps
  24. Hello everyone I am starting a new adventure and I am making leather collars and leashes for dogs. I am currently sewing them by hand but I would like to invest in a good/resistant sewing machine. I am definitely not an expert and online I am find a lot of different opinions about this topic that are a little confusing. What would you recommend buying for a first timer? I am looking around on e-bay and similar websites and for my budget (500-600 CAD) I only seem to find Omega machines (to be precise model 307 or Walking foot WF24LNZZ). Just to be completely transparent, I am planning to sew thickness of 3oz / 3.5oz natural leather and/or 3oz of natural leather plus a padding of 0.8/1oz soft leather and some foam. Thank you so much for your help!
  25. Thanks Walter, actually the toe isn't closed it just looks kind of like that in the picture. the holster is about 3/4" longer then the gun slide so the vacuum bag pulled the ends in, there's still an opening there. That Elephant hide is nice looking, I tried dying a small piece but it didn't look good at all. I believe this is tanned the natural color. I'd say this was about 3oz. it seems easy to work with but there is zero stretch,even when wet.
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