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  1. Hi guys I'm after some advice on ways to improve my belt making and was wondering if anybody had any suggestions on things I could try? One of the tricky bits is that I like to have the entire belt dyed. I really dislike it when only the surface is died so when you punch holes or look at the back of the belt its a different colour. Also I like to stitch the entire perimeter of the belt, to me that's what turns a functional strap into a belt. These make it hard as I end up dying the belt at the end so I can easier see my stitch marks and as I don't want the awl to cause any veg tan to show through. Its also hard trying to figure out what to stitch where so it all flows together with the perimeter stitching. I know I could use rivets to keep the buckle & keeper in place and this is fine on 'biker' style belts but for 'dress' belts I think stitching is the best option. This is my current order of steps: Cut tip end Measure Cut buckle end Chamfer edges Groove stitches Mark Stitches Wet form buckle end Awl buckle end Dye buckle end Oil + seal buckle end suede side Stitch buckle end Awl and stitch rest of belt Dye whole belt Oil whole belt Burnish belt Seal belt Buff belt I have a wing divider and stitching chisels on their way to me to try instead of grooving and using and overstitch wheel. I was also wondering if anyone had any templates for the buckle and tip ends? I have a friend who's going to help me draw up some cad images for these and get them laser cut so I can have some good reusable templates but some starting images for spacing ideas would be good. Eventually I want to build a collection of images/templates for all different combinations of English point, rounded, 5 holes, 7 holes, round holes, oval hole, buckle stitched, buckle riveted etc etc. I know the stitching isn't fantastic but here is the most recent one I finished and the one which has really prompted me to want to improve.
  2. I was reading up on Vachetta leather, but there was very little information on it online other than generic information that applies to all veg tanned leather. Does anyone have any experience with European Vachetta or can any of you shed light on the differences between this and other types? Thanks. Also- I'm mostly interested in it for belts.
  3. Hello all. I've been trying to learn leather work and have been enjoying making belts. I have tried Tandy blanks and SLC Hermann Oak blanks but I keep running in to this same problem. I get this wrinkling where the buckle rubs the belts. The reason I'm asking is I've seen Saddleback belts that don't look like this on the surface after use. I understand the belt will wear in over time, but this looks like some kind of delaminating. Just looking for some wisdom. Thanks In advance for your help!
  4. Some of my project's I've made this week. No experience before I bought the starter kit on a bit of a whim. I'm hooked is about all I can say. My minds full of idea's for projects, Knife sheaths and rifle scabbards, Shooting bags, Slings,belts and hat bands. So much to make. I'm trying to figure out what kind of Gear I can make for my Motocross gear. Art on my Boots?:D Some rounds with Celtic Knot desgins. My "heratige belt" with Shamrocks, Celtic Knots and a Scottish Thistle. Part of my family's Native American, I'm a big fan of that style art, So I made a Hawk, Orka and Chinook Salmon. The Animals/Tree was done just drawing the design. I had to use a template on the Knots. The Native art's gotten quite a bit of attention from my family, I'm going to make a bunch of Keychains for Gifts this Christmas. Should Keep me busy for the winter down time.
  5. I am making a belt today for my brother. The belt is going to be made from Meza veg tanned leather (very nice). It feels like it is finished. I am putting a square sheild belt buckle and was thinking of not burnishing the belt edges or applying edge coat dye (since I only have black). So,I was wondering what you all do to finish,conditioner, top kote, carnubba cream, wax or nothing on that kind of leather. I will try and upload picture for you. thanks in advance,
  6. Looking for information for how to dye or paint veg tan leather white in a way that would be resilient enough for daily wear as a belt. Thanks!
  7. Good day, I am an established leathersmith from Greensboro, NC. Always looking to learn new techniques and such. I work with any leather and any iem but concentrate on custom work. Check out my website at http://dragonleather.net. I can be contacted from the contact section of the menu. Good to be here. A few samples of my work are attached. Obviously you can see more at my web site. Dave
  8. Thank you to everyone who has welcomed me back to this forum these past few months. We've taken feedback you have shared into consideration and we are working feverishly behind the scenes to make buying from Ohio Travel Bag even better! You may even see your comments and feedback on our website homepage under "What people are saying about OTB" or the BUZZ. Exciting things to watch for: New website, scheduled to launch November 1st, with easy online searching and shopping. New OTB Catalog, scheduled to be published January-February 2016. Other Important Information: OTB has a $30 minimum (not $75). Call us to register for an account today. Can't reach that minimum? Only need one or two small items? Shop at http://www.hardwareelf.com or call us and ask to place a retail order. Thanks everyone
  9. I have been collecting watches for some time now. From collecting watches came collecting watch straps. I realized how easy it was to construct a NATO or a Zulu type watch strap and then I decided to try it on my own. After a few attempts of these easier types of straps I decided to kick it up a notch and try some stitching. I really enjoy the results and people on Instagram seem to be enjoying it as well. I plan on opening and Etsy store soon and selling my new found hobby. Let me know what you guys think. I've only been leatherworking for about two months now, but it has taken me over! Thanks!!!
  10. These are some belts I finished last Tuesday. Hope ya' like ukm, the pictures are not great. They are all 1 1/4" wide 9 oz. material. I use tallow before sealing the product with Resolene. The buckles are stinless steel. What do ya' think of the dye job?? I discovered that while trying to make a solid color belt. They all went through the same dye and all came out different patterns.
  11. Hi all, I'm really new to this but loving every minute of it. I recently made two California slim holsters from the Brazos Jack series and I am really pleased with my results. I would like to make a matching belt but I know absolutely no idea where to start. Could anyone recommend some resources, videos, books, websites? Like I say, I'm a 50 year old beginner and don't have all the tools or know-how. Always grateful.
  12. Hi everyone. I am a design and I am working with a leather worker in Lancaster on some watch bands. He is using some kind of sealant on the edges of the strap that he applies with a spongy brush. This room for error means sometimes he gets the finish on the top surface of the straps. I've been to a space that makes watch straps and they used this little plastic tray. I am trying to identify what it is called exactly? It has a wheel with teeth that picks up a liquid gum or dye. The straps edges are rolled along this wheel and the liquid (pink in the photo) is applied to the edges. In the photo the little tray is shown in it's two pieces, they stack on top of each other. Have been searching for a few days and would like to buy one for my leather guy to use on future strap runs. I included a photo below, if it's too small I uploaded it also here: http://imgur.com/u9saCTF
  13. Huge Artisan Workshop Clearance Sale in Boulder! Handmade leather wallets, leather belts, beads, vegetable tanned leather, antique textiles, tools, antiques, vintage jewelry. Lots of nice pieces from around the world. Some tools listed on craigslist here: https://boulder.craigslist.org/tls/4979252939.html Saturday April 18 - Sunday April 19, 2015 9am - 5pm Location: 740 University Ave. Boulder, CO 80302
  14. Hey guys, First post - but been lurking for a while. Recently started trying to make my own belts (for gifts and personal use) after being disappointed by price and quality of store bought ones. I made this one about a month ago, and have worn it probably 3/4 of the time since. I've noticed some "cracks" appearing at the point of wear and I am worried it is a bit premature for this kind of wear and tear to manifest. Here is a pic - The leather I used was 12oz natural veg tan, hermann oak I believe. Being a rookie, I only coated it with 3 coats of Obenauf L.P. and have so far neglected using neatsfoot oil or any other finish (I'm saving that for the next one) Could it be from the shape of the buckle, forcing it into an overly extreme backward bend? (see second pic) Could it also be a symptom of the leather being "dry" and myself not properly conditioning it? Any input from you more experienced guys is welcome!
  15. Hi all, I've been working with leather for about a year and a half (off and on), and have found this site to be extremely helpful, so I would like to get your advice on making belts. Is there any veg-tanned leather that I should avoid? I typically work with Craftsman Oak or Oak Leaf because I like all the marks, but I don't know if those will crack or crinkle when the belt is worn. I'm working with Pro Oil dye. Can I use just beeswax and oil to seal the color, or should I first lay down a coat of Carnauba Creme or something else? Thank you for your opinions.
  16. Hello all, I am fairly new to leather work within the last couple of years and I am making leather radio straps for the fire service. I am looking to ramp up my operation. I like dying the leather myself to achieve the color I want. I have been dying them by hand and I finished the backs and edges with edge kote. I am not the satisfied with this process. I use Hermann oak and I am very satisfied with it. I have been looking into "dip dying" so I could do 100 straps at a time and I am thinking I wouldn't have to apply and edge kote to them anymore and finishing the edges would be much easier. I just want to make sure the dye will set in well and I can't have any rub off onto shirts. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kale
  17. Hello all, I am fairly new to leather work within the last couple of years and I am making leather radio straps for the fire service. I am looking to ramp up my operation. I like dying the leather myself to achieve the color I want. I have been dying them by hand and I finished the backs and edges with edge kote. I am not the satisfied with this process. I use Hermann oak and I am very satisfied with it. I have been looking into "dip dying" so I could do 100 straps at a time and I am thinking I wouldn't have to apply and edge kote to them anymore and finishing the edges would be much easier. I just want to make sure the dye will set in well and I can't have any rub off onto shirts. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kale
  18. Hello all! Been working away at home, just thought I'd post some work I've done for friends and family ordered for Christmas. Comments, critiques and advice are welcom. My Grandmother asked me to make a belt for her husband, and gave no further instruction, other than it had to be no wider than an inch and a quarter. I'm still new to leatherwork so I decided to go for a plain finish of nothing but neatsfoot oil. Don't know how it will hold up, if anything goes wrong I'll just have another project on my hands. : ) This is a closeup of *ahem* a tractor, with a little bit of doodly stuff behind it. The rest has a basketweave pattern and his initials, HM are at the tip. I finished the edge with gum trag. This one is for a friends' brother. I treated it with vinegaroon and after the rinse cycle, tooled it the next day. Does anyone have advice for tooling/vinegaroon? I thought about tooling first and rooning later, but I can't see how soaking tooled leather would be a good idea. I just find that the leather is a little more difficult to tool than normal after the vinegaroon process. He wanted an arrowhead pattern with his brother's name centered on the back. I finished this one with neatsfoot as well. I read hidepounder's PDF(thanks for that!) on finishing edges and tried to adhere to his method as best I could with what I had. As I said I appreciate all comments and advice! God bless, and have a Merry Christmas!
  19. I was asked to make a couple belts but have never made belts before. the sizes i was asked for are 34 and 48, what are the actual lengths of the belts from buckle to end?
  20. Village Noel Temiskaming - A Christmas Village (Village Noel Temiskaming) with a New France Theme. November 27th - 30th, 2014 in Downtown New Liskeard, Temiskaming Shores, Ontario Come to our Christmas Village with a New France Theme of the 1600's. There will be many artisans and leather workers, carolers, stret musicians and all set in the 1600's Fur Traders and Coureur de Bois of the French Fur Trade Era. And LeatherCanoe will be there! Come and experience an old fashioned Christmas. leathercanoe.com

    © ARTEM

  21. Hi everyone - I've read completely through the guide to choosing a sewing machine, and have it narrowed down to the consew 206RB and the Juki 1541s, and now I'm stuck. They are both around the same price (although I found a dealer in Dallas who has a Juki clone called a Typical GC0605A for about $300 less). I make fashion style body harnesses, corsets, belts, and some garments. So far I've been sewing on a Janome MC6600, which does ok most of the time with very light leather, but gives up over thicker seams and occasionally just decides it doesn't want to sew something that its been working on all day with no problem. I generally don't sew anything more than single 5-8oz pieces or multiple pieces around 10 ounces total, and I figure if I really need to, then I can hand stitch pieces heavier than that. For the heavy pieces its usually not being attached to anything, but is decorative edge stitching. Which machine do you think sounds more appropriate? I would be upgrading to the servo motor for either. Thanks so much for any advice.
  22. Say I'd like to have a belt that says "LILY LAMBDA" all written in rivets. (In fact, I would like that very much) How do I lay out the letters nicely so I know where to put the rivets? I could draw a grid and try to handwrite my own LED-looking font, but I'm wondering if there's a better way. It would be real magic if there was a program where I could put in the dimensions of the leather, the dimensions of the rivet heads, and kaboom — it makes a printable guide for you. What have you tried?
  23. Rotary Leather punch for sale. I bought this new from Weaver about 2 years ago and paid $2,200. Works great. I used it maybe 6 times. Comes with 9 differnet sized punches. Will sell for $850.
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