Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'boots'.
Found 41 results
-
Pit of despair. Sewing a zipper into the heel of a riding boot. First time installing a zipper. I welcome your tips and advice. My double stick tape didn't stick to the leather so I used a dab of Barge cement on the bottom and binder clips to hold the zipper for sewing. I hand sewed the zipper into the heel then used a machine for the rest.
-
Hello everyone, I need to know if a boot like this can be repaired? It's a large scratch and I'm not sure how to go about getting it fixed. I was thinking of sanding around the scratch, then trying to buff with either saddle soap or an oil? Any ideas??? Thanks
-
i hear at 19th century step in shotgun chaps were made bigger so they could fit over your boot's. does anyone know how much bigger.
-
So I don't know if this is the right place to ask for help but I have searched the entire internet for either similar boots or someone I could commission to make them for me. I'm looking for something based off of these: I wouldn't expect them to be exact because this is not a real picture but I really love these boots and I want something similar. If anyone could help with this or help me find someone who can that would be amazing. Price isn't an issue. My email is jacklynlemay (at) gmail.com Thank you!!
-
So, this is the fifth pair of boots I am making. The previous four pairs were an evolution of engineer boots and so I decided to make some harness boots this time. They are ready for the midsole, soles, and heels!
-
I spray painted my boots but the paint keeps coming off when I wear them. Any ideas on what I could do? -
Hi All, I'm a newish shoe/boot maker in AZ, and I wanted to introduce myself and see who else out there is making footwear. My style is a moccasin style shoe/boot, that is patterned around making a cast of the person's foot. So, each one is built for the individual's foot. I'm in the process of working on some sandals, and little bags and wallets. I would love to connect with other shoe makers, especially if you're in the Southwest. Rai (like the bread)
-
This is my fourth leather project and fourth pair of boots. Each time has incorporated new techniques and tweaks. So far, I’m the most pleased with these.
-
This is my fourth leather project and fourth pair of boots. Each time has incorporated new techniques and tweaks. So far, I’m the most pleased with these. -
So, 10 months ago, I posted my first leather project... a pair of engineer boots. I didn't expect to end up with something I could wear and didn't care about the mistakes in stitching, pattern, etc. However, the end result was something unexpected and so I decided to do it again, this time with better materials, more care, a better pattern, etc. So, here are the results. My engineers, version 2. Very happy with how they turned out. Brown Horween Chromexel Horsebutt Japanese buckles Neoprene soles with Catspaw heels Unstructured toe
-
My cousin wanted a wallet made from the tops of an old pair of work boots. He's a junkman that goes by the name "Junkman" and goes through work boots like crazy. The outer is from the boots and the inner is 2/3oz veg tan. -
I thought it would be good to gather up a list of shoe making books with authors and ISBNs. We can do this as a running list of books. M. De Garsault's 1776 Art of the Shoemaker translated by D.A. Saguto ISBN 978-0-89672-650-5 The Art of Leather Inlay and Overlay by Lisa Sorrell ISBN 978-0-7643-5121-1 Bespoke Shoemaking by Tim Skyrme ISBN 0-9802937-0-7 The Make-it-Yourself Shoebook by Christine Lewis Clark no ISBN Make Your Own Shoes by Mary Wales Loomis. Book is available from her website. The Art of Boot and Shoemaking, A Practial Handbook by John B. Leno ISBN 978-1-57898-972-0 Handmade Shoes for Men by Konemann ISBN 3-89508-928-1 Pattern Cutting, Step by Step Patterns for Footwear Edited by Frank Jones ISBN 978-0-9554086-0-1 Last Designing & Making Manual (DVD sold separately) by George Koleff no ISBN Available from walrusshoe.com and Tim Skryme Shoes for Free People by David & Inger Runk ISBN 0-913300-44-6 Stepping Through Time, Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Time until 1800 by Olaf Goubitz Available from Oxbow Books Make Your Own Medieval Clothing, Shoes of the High and Late Middle Ages by Stefan von der Heide ISBN 978-3-938922-25-5 Shoes and Pattens by Frances McGrew and Margrethe De Meergaard ISBN 978-1-84383-238-6 DVDs The Art of Shoemaking featuring Glen Leasure available from healthyhandmakeshores.com Make Your Own Scandianavian Turnshoe with Jason Hovatter available from laughingcrowe.com
-
Finally made myself a pair of boots to wear around when going out. I liked the look of my work boots so I made these to match but with a leather soul. They are made on a different last than my work boots. Their the same Water Buffalo as on my wok boots as well. Super soft and makes great boots. Still made so many mistakes but getting better. Still can't dance with the Landis 12 so I had to hand stitch the welt to the sole as you can tell. I'm one of those Deplorables so I had make a political statement. If you want to see the backs you will have to go to the ADULT section.
-
Hello all, First off, Ill start by pointing out that I am not a shoe/boot maker and have never made a pair. I have absolutely no experience in this field although I have been leather crafting accessories for a few years. That said; I'd like to take a stab at making a rough pair of boots. I'm not really interested in learning how to carve a pair of lasts out of wood at this point as it seems that this is an art of its own. Rather, I'd like a more simple way of making a pair of lasts. I've done a bit of reading about using a pair of old boots/shoes to pour some sort of resin/foam into to get a rough last shape out of, then shaping it. The problem is, the only information I've found about a substance which can be nailed into without cracking is this smooth-on foam #25. Which apparently is dense and rigid enough to put a nail into, but flexible enough to avoid cracking, according to a user in another thread. This foam used in combination with a thin layer of bondo apparently will do the job for a couple of pairs of boots/shoes. Problem is, this foam is $185 a gallon. This is completely unreasonable for me as I'm just doing this as a hobby. I also wonder if this foam would be rigid enough to stretch the leather over without altering the shape of the "last". Is there some other resin or plastic combo or otherwise I could use to achieve a "nail-able" and rigid material? Could I just melt some recyclable HDPE? Or would that deform the shoe I plan on using to pour the substance into? I need something that won't hurt my wallet, and is hard enough that I can form leather with it, but not so rigid that it would crack when nailed into. I really hope someone has some experience with this! Thanks again, Zayne
-
Hello all, First off, Ill start by pointing out that I am not a shoe/boot maker and have never made a pair. I have absolutely no experience in this field although I have been leather crafting accessories for a few years. That said; I'd like to take a stab at making a rough pair of boots. I'm not really interested in learning how to carve a pair of lasts out of wood at this point as it seems that this is an art of its own. Rather, I'd like a more simple way of making a pair of lasts. I've done a bit of reading about using a pair of old boots/shoes to pour some sort of resin/foam into to get a rough last shape out of, then shaping it. The problem is, the only information I've found about a substance which can be nailed into without cracking is this smooth-on foam #25. Which apparently is dense and rigid enough to put a nail into, but flexible enough to avoid cracking, according to a user in another thread. This foam used in combination with a thin layer of bondo apparently will do the job for a couple of pairs of boots/shoes. Problem is, this foam is $185 a gallon. This is completely unreasonable for me as I'm just doing this as a hobby. I also wonder if this foam would be rigid enough to stretch the leather over without altering the shape of the "last". Is there some other resin or plastic combo or otherwise I could use to achieve a "nail-able" and rigid material? Could I just melt some recyclable HDPE? Or would that deform the shoe I plan on using to pour the substance into? I need something that won't hurt my wallet, and is hard enough that I can form leather with it, but not so rigid that it would crack when nailed into. I really hope someone has some experience with this! Thanks again, Zayne
-
Hey y'all, I've been dinking around in the shop and working on my third pair of lasted boots. I am extremely curious about creating a "gusseted tongue" and attempted to on my last pair. I just made a pattern on the fly and upon stitching it to the quarters and stitching the tongue to the vamp, it came out looking very dorky, chunky and not at all aligned with the original plan, so to speak. Does anyone have any recommendations or experience in designing gusseted tongues? Any tips for a new guy? Methods for measuring and design?
-
Firs attempt at these, next project are Mukluk's so was essential to get some practice. Made from Bovine,coated in Mink oil. Bison will be use for my next project. Added a second piece for the sole to add to durability. First test walk I found the heal needed to be thicker, gonna put some crepe rubber on their so it lasts, just have to shave the base so glue sticks. It was a learn as you go experience.
-
Firs attempt at these, next project are Mukluk's so was essential to get some practice. Made from Bovine,coated in Mink oil. Bison will be use for my next project. Added a second piece for the sole to add to durability. First test walk I found the heal needed to be thicker, gonna put some crepe rubber on their so it lasts, just have to shave the base so glue sticks. It was a learn as you go experience.
-
Firs attempt at these, next project are Mukluk's so was essential to get some practice. Made from Bovine,coated in Mink oil. Bison will be use for my next project. Added a second piece for the sole to add to durability. First test walk I found the heal needed to be thicker, gonna put some crepe rubber on their so it lasts, just have to shave the base so glue sticks. It was a learn as you go experience.
-
Firs attempt at these, next project are Mukluk's so was essential to get some practice. Made from Bovine,coated in Mink oil. Bison will be use for my next project. Added a second piece for the sole to add to durability. First test walk I found the heal needed to be thicker, gonna put some crepe rubber on their so it lasts, just have to shave the base so glue sticks. It was a learn as you go experience.
-
I'm looking into making (or buying, on the off chance that flying pigs are sighted) a line finisher. It's mainly for shoe/boot making. What are the essential features? Looks like a muslin and horsehair wheel would be really useful. Also, a burnishing wheel. A few sanding wheels. What about trimming/cutting wheels? I usually see cordwainers cutting soles by hand. And the tool used for marking stitches on a welt? Is that essential or just nice-to-have? Also, I see some cone-shaped wheels that look like vitrified grinding wheels. What are those for? A shelf seems important. And what other features would you want? What about belt sander wheels vs drums? Seems like the drums would be a lot simpler and the belts would be higher performance. I suspect there will be lots of "just buy one" and "you can pick one up at an auction for cheap" and "DIY is a false economy" thoughts. I don't mean to start a debate about DIY or acutioning or whatever. I'm just trying to understand the basic requirements for a line finisher.
-
We are selling out our complete shoe repair and custom bootmaking shop in Poplar Bluff, Mo. We have two post machines that are like new, bought from Nick o Sew a couple years ago, one single needle, one double needle. There is also a Boss Tippman that is still just like new bought only a year ago. The rest of the shop equipment is older but in good working condition. There are 250 pairs of cowboy boot lasts and shoe lasts on which 7 toe styles can be made...some barely used. Full size runs with widths from AA to EEE or wider are represented in most styles. There are lots of supplies including thread, soling leather, rubber soling, heel bases and lifts, upper leathers and even some exotics. Would like to sell as a complete package. Buyer must come to the shop and arrange moving. Call 573-686-4545. No calls after 9pm central time please. I will not respond to texts. I can email detailed photos upon request. Asking price for complete shop package is $15,000. Let`s talk.
-
Hello all! My first official post here, so please go easy on me! I've been reading up as much as I can here on the forums and elsewhere, but still have some questions as a new leatherworker! I am new to leatherworking, but have bootblacking experience and am familiar with leather overall. I recently got a pair of fantastic vintage Wesco boots, which are in incredible condition and have so much life still. They are a rich mahogany Redwood color with some darker staining and scuffs, so I'd love them to be a deeper chocolate brown. I'm unsure of which type of leather the boots are made of, but its a type of oil tanned I believe? I purchased Fiebings Deglazer, Pro Oil in Dark Brown, and Bag Kote. I also have Obenaufs which is my go-to for conditioning/waterproofing my leather. I'm planning on spending ALOT of time, to paint around each white stitching, to avoid getting dye on the white stitches as much as possible. From what I have researched here, the initial steps would be to: 1. Deglaze to remove finish and waxes. 2. Use Pro Oil dye over entire boot. 3. Buff off excess, and repeat dye/buffing until even coating. -------------------------------------------- Now, I've read here that some people use neatsfoot between dye and finish, to help seal in oil. However, I like to regularly condition and treat my boots after wearing. Would Bag-Kote prevent later conditioning? I've also read that some use Obenaufs/Sno-Seal as a finisher after dying. Is this enough to prevent oil transfer when wet or in contact with moisture? Or would Bag-Kote be a better lasting option? Thank you for the help! -
Finally finished my new work boots. Look a lot like my last pair.
-
Hi all, Pretty new to boot making and looking for some advice on leather. I live in the Pacific Northwest, which if you don't know is a soggy muddy mess across a lot of the region for a lot of the year. This as you may imagine wreaks utter havoc on leather boots, or leather anything else that is subject to the weather. I am wondering if anyone has suggestions for types of leather or particular tans that might have a better chance than others of holding up to these sorts of conditions in the long run. I know I know, take proper care of them, don't wear them in the rain, expect them to die young, wear rubber boots, etc. etc. This question is about particular types of leather that might possibly stand up to a wet climate better than others. If the answer is none, well, so be it. But worth checking! Any thoughts or resources would surely be appreciated, thanks.
