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Found 57 results

  1. Hello everyone Here is a recent woman's bag I made using tumbled Horween Essex. The leather is about 6/7oz and slightly spongy. Its sewn at 6 spi (7 tpi) with fil au chinois linen thread; size 432 Fully lined with interior pocket. And a shot of the hide Thanks for looking
  2. Anybody know where to buy solid brass hardware (in the U.S.) with finish like this (not antique)? O-, D- rings, swivels, etc. I'm checked out Weaver, Tandy, and Buckle Guy, but i'm especially drawn to those flat ones, look really high end to me. thanks!
  3. Hello; We just purchased a building which used to be the home of a leather working company. They produced everything from halters (horses & cows) to dog leashes. We purchased the building and contents because the family did not want to spend the time to sort all of this out. We are now in the position of trying to find homes for everything. There are over 900 halters, there is all sorts of equipment and tons (literally tons) of hardware in this building. He bought his hardware by the pallet and most is North & Judd. There is a 55 gallon container of a tanning compound he had custom made for his business and a dipping tank, I can not even tell you everything that is here because not being in the business I would do it a dis-service, so I have attached some links to pages of pictures we have so far. If anyone is interested in, please let us know and let's see if we can work it out. There is also a cart of 1/8" Leather shoulders here which we have sold a few and were told they were excellent by the fella who purchased them. He made gun holsters out of Texas. Here are the links: https://app.box.com/s/wl7mlcqjr9wsvnsp9lxavw1rocncl5df https://app.box.com/s/2fpit4r5yrx4xzn5qmnv https://app.box.com/s/cevypyk34jn8gewm1t8c https://app.box.com/s/iw1ya8rpyr68kgyzh1qv Let me know if you have any question and I will do my best to answer them or take additional photos if needed. Thank you.
  4. I have been lurking on this site for a while so i thought i would post something. I have been leather crafting for around a year now in a hobby capacity. This is a belt i made for a friend of mine.
  5. Greetings all. We just opened a store where we sell our leathercrafts and silver jewelry. During creations of leather products, one tend to look for ideas and inspiration, and i have stumbled upon a problem. On these pictures you will see examples of brass plates ( i think ) that are engraved or etched and placed on the leather or plate. These are more or less impossible to find, but i know i have seen them on sale somewhere some time back. Does anyone have any good tips on where to get a hold of such items and perhaps that also have links? Best regards Johan
  6. From the album: My Creations

    Rough finished 1/2" hat band with brass buckle. Hand tooled rope design with angled tip and matching carved keeper. Black dyed with mahogany antiquing, finished with beeswax.
  7. So I've been on a quest to use materials and components made in the USA for my projects. It's a point of pride for me, and also a selling point when talking to people about my items. I've been fairly happy with Hermann Oak veg tan, and I've been very happy with Maine Thread's polycord, so those areas are sorted. Finding quality metal hardware has been a real pain, however. I have a Gold Star press, so I wanted snaps and rivets that fit my existing dies. I have a strong dislike for plated steel, as a lot of my things go outside and will eventually rust here in perpetually soggy Western Oregon. I finally found Dot Fasteners and Rome Fastener Sales. Dot never got back to me regarding samples or country of origin. I called Rome and talked to Georgia, who sent me sample snaps and rapid rivet samples almost immediately. No charge for a handful of each to check on my press. So far so good! The samples appeared to be high quality and did indeed work with my dies, although I had to slightly file down the ligne 20 snap socket die. Here's where things got strange/frustrating. I emailed the sales email address asking for a quote (there are NO prices anywhere on their website) and got no response. I emailed Georgia, copying sales, asking the same info and got no response. About a month later I called back and was transferred to Robert who apologized and took down all the part numbers and my email to send me a quote. I got nothing. A few weeks later I called again and got Francine, who again took the part numbers and promised to email or call that day or the next with the quote. She called me back a couple hours later with a detailed quote for all the items, which was great. They have a $125 minimum on the full order, no minimums on individual items, and I should email my order with part numbers and quantities to Robert, which I did. I got no response or confirmation and had about totally given up on them, but about a week later Francine called to get my payment info (credit card) and said my order was shipping. I told my wife, "I've never had to work so hard to give a company my money!" Several days later my order arrived (complete and correct, you can bet I checked it...) and I'm pretty pleased with the quality. I ordered ligne 20 & 24 snaps, some small rapid rivets, and some snap hooks all in both solid brass and nickel over brass. Ligne 20 brass and nickel over brass. Ligne 24 brass and nickel over brass. As for a recommendation, I don't quite know what to say. So, here are the bullet points for you to decide if you want to try them... Service: Obviously getting pricing and ordering is not as easy as it should be. I don't know if my experience was standard, or if I just had some especially bad luck. They were also out of stock on several less common items (nothing that was critical for me to get) and, again, I don't know if that's a normal thing. Quality: Good, but also a couple of odd inconsistencies. The nickel L20 sockets are stamped "ROME * USA", while the brass ones are stamped "ROME * MILFORD". The nickel L20 eyelets are stamped "ROME * USA" very clearly, while the brass ones are stamped "ROME * ROME" very lightly. I like having them marked, but it's odd that they don't all match. The L24 parts have no markings. The brass parts all appear to have a clear coat protectant on them, which only time will tell if it holds up. The brass is not polished looking, like a plated finish would be. That's fine with me, but some might object. Selection: Very good. Lots of variations on snap cap or eyelet lengths, lots of rivet cap sizes and post lengths. Really more combinations that I think you can find anywhere else I've seen. They also have a lot of base metal and finishes available. I wonder how hard it would be to order more exotic combinations, given my difficulty in placing a very standard order. Price: Not bad. More than crappy Chinese steel, certainly, but not terrible. Solid brass small rapid rivets are about $0.25 each. Solid brass L20 snaps are roughly $.29 each. They do charge a few cents more for the nickel plated brass, and I imagine other metals/finishes are priced accordingly. They do offer brass or nickel plated steel for a fair bit less, although I didn't get prices. Again, not exactly cheap, but I think fair for quality brass made in the US of A. Long review, but I know others are interested in finding quality and/or domestic suppliers. I'll definitely give Rome my business when I'm due for my next resupply and hope that the service issues were an anomaly.
  8. Well, I finally grew tired of using my substandard edge creaser. I thought of shelling out for the Vergez Blanchard model, but just couldn't part with the cash so I decided to make my own. Solid brass construction with beech wood insert. Threaded brass rivets hold it together and knurled brass knob for adjusting the width. Works like a charm and feels miles better that my old "Tandy" creaser.
  9. Just delivered this case this week. Very happy client Comments and suggestions welcome. I'm always trying to make these better. Kai
  10. My first attempt at making a pair of suspenders. First 2 pics are of my creation. The 3rd pic is what I was going by as reference. I think the buckle level is correct but I'm not standing up straight (sorry Mom) Comments and suggestions are most welcome as I'm just starting out.
  11. ​I am looking for fittings of this sort (as in the image) in brass or so with a range of different letters for a project I am working on Can anyone tell me what these are officially called? Can anyone also give me a good quality manufacturer who can provide these? Lastly, are these actually better in brass as I have assumed? o are they usually made of a different metal for a certain reason? Weight e.t.c. Any help would be amazing!!!
  12. Hi folks, I've been scouring the internets for solid brass FLAT key rings in 1.5" outer diameter (or similarly sized). One of our accounts is requesting larger than the standard 7/8" or 1" and I can't find a resource. Any recommendations are appreciated! Buckle guy, Weaver, Tandy, etc do not carry. I can have them manufactured, but it will take about 6 weeks and my timeline does not allow. Many thanks!
  13. i'm a new leatherworker in Thailand, here, I cannot find any good quality hardware stores. Where could I find some good quality hardware (as brass or copper button studs, fasteners, snap plates, magnetic bag clasp plate etc.) online in Asia? I heard that HONGKONG is the best place, is it right?
  14. II have been playing with making swivel knives from brass on my new lathe... I made all the stuff in the photos except the shanks with the finger piece...waiting for some bearings from china that are $10 for 10 bearings 4mm also making stylus's for tracing onto the leather but mine are longer and more of a pleasure to hold. regards Terry O'Brien the LEATHERBARON www.leatherbaron.com (facebook link ) photos show thee brass swivel knives and some that were flat chromed as a test
  15. I want to make some nato watch straps, similar to the attached image, but I cant find ANYWHERE that sells the hardware. If anyone knows where I could get that kind of buckle/loops (especially if its solid brass) I'd be super pumped! Thanks!
  16. This is my latest briefcase, designed for a client out east. I custom make all of the handles and large buckles for the bags and belts in my shop. This one is egyptian olive wood and solid brass. The flap is lined with italian wool. Gives it a nice flash when you open it up.
  17. So well, I guess there is no need for two threads, so I´ll reduce it to one I had a work mate some time ago I came along with really nice and who teached me a lot for my daily job. So as we are both craftsmen and therefore like well (hand)made stuff I decided to make him a belt which turned out to be the best I made yet. For those of you who mention the different colour of the edge all along and the edge where the keeper sits (might be hard to see on the pictures... didn´t do a nice job on the pciture stuff this time): I started with the buckle using edge kote. But after that I visited my father who owns one of my belts and recognized, that the edge of hos belt - which I finished with some edge kote, too - was just fuzzy all along.... so I cried a little for help here, got some fingers pointed again on the thread "how to finish edges" and did it (nearly) as descriebed there... finally I got a nice (even nicer!) edge the with edge kote which hopefully should hold up much longer, as the only substance sitting on top is a really thin coat of Tan Kote finished with some parraffin. Thanks for that already guys! Acutally I never saw him since I gave it to him, but he was full of joy, so I assume the hours put into this piece were worth it. The belt itself is some 3,5mm belt croupon lined with some 0,8mm ... neck (I guess... ordered that seperately), hand dyed as always and handstitched with 8 SPI all around. The bucke is made of solid brass and the width is just about 38mm. As this is the second lined belt I made, I tried out some things like skiving the loop where the buckle sits down to the lining plus tapering the tip of the belt for a better sliding into the belt keeper. work worked just fine. The second piece is a sheath for a... "fancy" knife of a customer. He just wanted a simple sheath but made a lot more sturdier than his last one where the knife is hold by friction at least a little as is came out sometime before... The sheath is dyed with a light brown. After that I applied one coat of oil, let it dry and applied some heavy coat of my leatherbalm. The plan was to fit the handle colour of the knife which turned out quite good. I guess those are the moments where it´s good to know how the individual hide darkens when you use your "stuff (the balm) on it!! So always do a sample guys.... really! I guess If I didn´t know and wanted to be it light brown I´d have stuck in this head->table->head->table motion.... XD So here you see the difference between the old one the ne sheath As the blade got a little curve near the tip, it even cut a little hole into the old sheat... that was made poor and a little tight, so everytime the customer pushed the knif back into the sheath he unwillingly forced the tip into the leather.... poor little thing ^^
  18. I really want to make a leather bag for myself and I saw one of this clasp on the links below and loved it. Anyone know where I can source one of these? Links: http://theleathershop.com/bag/heirloom-messenger-tan.html/ http://www.ebay.com/itm/Saddle-Bag-Hardtail-Harley-Tan-Brass-Motorcycle-Tool-Rich-Phillips-Leather-/140854638792 Thanks, Andy
  19. Hi guys, I have a buckle that's cast with zinc alloy and plated with brass. Wondering if there are any good rudimentary tests that I could run to see how well the plating will hold up. So far I've scrubbed a section with steel wool and am now soaking the piece in vinegar and the platting is still holding up. Obviously this isn't going to be an exact science, but I'm hoping to get a feel for its longevity. The hardware is going to be used on a bag that will experience some outdoor use (maybe some occasional rain), but nothing too serious. Has anyone had good experience with brass plated hardware? Thanks!
  20. I made this after seeing Rawcustoms post on making a new Awl blade holder. I used his idea for the blade holder and bought the double collet pin vise from EBay. I don't make my own blades, I buy them. The handle is turned out of Cocobolo with a brass ferrule turned to flush itself with the Cocobolo. The business end of course is the pin vise. I struggled with how to handle the reference point on the handle. I've read where folks sand down a flat spot for reference. That would serve to keep the handle from rolling around too. You would not have to look either but in my case I've been sewn back together enough to know I'm not real found of that. I prefer to watch myself stab myself so I went with an orientation inlay so I have to watch. The inlay is Ivory from a late 1800's piano that went to the scrap yard, I harvested the keys and soaked the ivories off to use as inlays. Figuring out how to cut the ivory was interesting to say the least. I am about three weeks into leather work and this site has helped me greatly. What drove me to leather work is unprotected sharp pointy things. My friends have a hard time not cutting themselves when they visit. I warn them if it's meant to be sharp and I own it, well it's sharp. I'm forced to either make sheaths for my sharp pointy things or get new friends. I see it this way, if you pick it up, unsnap the sheath strap, pull it out of the sheath and proceed to insert the sharp pointy thing into you body all by yourself you must have wanted it there. Thank you all for helping to protect my friends from themselves.
  21. I am going to purchase a large (10 x 10 cm) brass stamp to emboss some veg tan. The stamp will fit into my adjustable heated embossing tool and would work well for its intended purpose, but I prefer the look of the stamp when simply hammered or pressed into the leather, rather than burned. I was going to buy a 1/2 ton arbor press from harbor freight to see if that does the job: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-arbor-press-3551.html The problem with that press is that it only has a 1 inch square ram, and I am afraid that the pressure won't be spread out evenly across the stamp, resulting in an uneven emboss. I was thinking about getting a couple of square pieces of thick metal to place between the ram and the stamp, and then on the opposite side, under the leather, to see if that would help, but I am unsure. Do you guys have any better ideas? The most economical approach is the one I would prefer. Thanks! Zayne
  22. Hello all, I am having issues setting brass rivets with my rivet setter (https://www.etsy.com/listing/118895691/stud-rivet-setter-tool-machine-hand). The posts always end up indenting the caps, even when I cut the post down. If I cut the posts any shorter than I do the caps come off without much effort. I don't think it is an issue with the rivet setter, it seems to function as it is intended. The die used on the machine is a 12mm double cap die. I am using 7mm and 9.2mm double cap rivets with differing post sizes for various leather thicknesses. My plan was to cut down any posts that were too long, but as I mentioned, the posts still indent the caps. Have any of you had similar issues? Thanks Zayne
  23. Hi, I occasionally do wet moulding for tool sheaths, bags etc. What I need are some tacks that do not stain the leather, the only ones I can get locally or online in the UK are just steel and rust immediately and stain the leather. Not an issue so far as I tend to use dark colours, but I want to try a bag in an undied colour ie pale beige. In Al Stohlman's books he mentions HAND or SHOE tacks but all the local cobblers say even they can[t get them. So....... HELP! Best Wishes Claire PS The quantity I need is about 50-100 or so if reuseable.
  24. So I made a belt again. This time as part of a gift for my fathers 60ths birthday. As I am getting used to making this sort of belts I think I improved a lot from my very first one to this one, even if I made two little mistakes (happily I was able to remove them in an invisible way). I might finish of the belt-keepers edge a bit better, but besides that I am quite happy with the result. And actually his reaction just showed me that he likes it a lot, too. Made from cowhide (croupon), dyed and stitched bye hand using 8 SPI all around. The buckle is made of solid brass.
  25. As I needed a little bag to match the hat I made some time ago, I made this girdle purse. Actually it isn´t practical at all, but all I need (well.... let´s say one of the main priorities) is that it looks and feels as "realistic" (in the quality point of view) as possible. So this one is about 20cm x 20cm and is quite limited in the capacity, but I like it anyway XD The front is made of sturgeon again the rest is mainly goat and some calf skin (I guess, but I am not sure). The yellow inlay is made of wool. I hope you like it
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