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Leather Machine Company pedestal sander/burnisher. Variable speed from 2000-3500rpm. Reversible. Awesome machine for shaping/sanding edges and puts a great burnish to finish the job. Heavy duty pedestal capable of fastening to floor. Has hook for vaccuum tube to keep the dust down in the shop. $300 $300

Asking $200 please feel free to DM any questions or reasonable offers, thank you.

Hi all, I currently make leather bags by hand (up to 10oz thick) and am looking to buy some machinery to ease the strain on my joints - I've done some research but it's hard to find any UK sellers for most of the things suggested on this forum - I wondered if anyone could recommend any hand presses (for punching and rivet setting), hand clickers (for die cutting), and burnishing machines sold in the UK. Budget is pretty limited, hence the request for hand tools rather than hydraulic. If anyone has any advice on UK options it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Nav

Hi all, I currently make leather bags by hand (up to 10oz thick) and am looking to buy some machinery to ease the strain on my joints - I've done some research but it's hard to find any UK sellers for most of the things suggested on this forum - I wondered if anyone could recommend any hand presses (for punching and rivet setting), hand clickers (for die cutting), and burnishing machines sold in the UK. Budget is pretty limited, hence the request for hand tools rather than hydraulic. If anyone has any advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Danielle

This is a Complete Shoe Repair Shop Machinery for Sale. Shop is closed. Everything must be Sold ASAP Price is very good for all this equipment. Sutton/Landis S2000 Finisher with Trimming Section Sanding Section for Adjustable Sole and Heel Trimming, Numb Keg Disk Sander, 5 Sanding Belts Section, Buffer Burnisher Section, Blower Motor section with Dust Collect section Retails for $9000 used alone. Landis 3 in 1 Long Arm Cutter. includes cutting Skiving, Press about $650 used Champion 5 in 1 Long Arm Cutter, Includes cutting Skiving, Press about $900 used Landis McKay 88 model Insole Chain Stitch machine for sewing Soles Through the shoes or Boots. Retails about $1000 used 2 Auto Soler wired Nail Driving Nail Machines, Cinderella Comet Brand. Retails about $250 each, used. Landis Model G Outsole Stitching Machine also known as Curved Needle Stitcher used for Sole Sole to Welts around the Outside of Shoes and Boots with Welts. Retails Used about $1500 Landis Welt Press To Decorate the Welt with Design, Retails used about $200 Landis Champion Table Top Heel Wheel used to Drive Nails through the Heels from inside while Pressing the Heels down from the outside can also be used as a Heel Press when doing Glue Jobs. Retails used about $950 2 Meta Landis Jack Stands with Assorted Metal Men Women Child Lasts. Used for Setting Hammering Nailing Heel and Sole Jobs while Standing and working on Shoes and Boots.Retails Used about $200 each. 2 Large Work Benches and some Misc. Stuff. $100 each 1 Big Open Close Sign. paid $200 new You will spend $10K or more on used equipment if you are planing on opening a Leather Repair Shop. Purchase Complete and Take it all while its here for $5700 Shop is closed Serious Buyers only please and you must move or arrange for Shipping.

I have an old motor and divider bar that used to run and old bench mounted multi-tool work station. I'm gonna turn this into a sanding and burnishing machine. Problem I'm having is finding a sanding drum that mounts to a half inch bar with set screws or has half inch thread for mounting. I also can't seem to find the necessary adapter either. Any tips on where I can find either would be much appreciated.

Pro Edge Skirt Chaser-Drill Burnisher is like new. I bought it just a few months back and used it very lightly but didn't end up needing it. I am selling it for $35 plus $5 for shipping. Has seven grooves, 1" flat, 1/", 3/8", 5/16", 1/4", 1/8", 1/16" rounded grooves with the steel shaft and made from cocobolo wood. Keep in mind that this burnisher is specifically made to be attached to a drill press and the drill press is not included.

Hello, I posted a similar topic a few years ago and I'm hoping to re-ignite the subject. I've been trying different methods over the years and I still have not found a clear-cut (or even close) method of burnishing thinner (i'm using 4/5 oz) natural leather without the edges being darkened too much and without making a mess of the face of the piece (or the flesh side, for that matter). I really like the look of completely untouched natural leather, so I don't want to put any sort of conditioner/sheen on the face as they all darken the leather at least a shade. I want to keep the natural leather as white/pink as possible with minimal water/paste mess from burnishing. I'm also having somewhat of an issue with the flesh edge of the leather folding over some with the thinner leather. I might be burnishing too quickly after wetting the edge, I don't know. I am using a pro edge burnisher in my drill press which works very well. Methods I've tried: - Just water This solves the edge darkening problem and also solves the mess problem when applied extremely carefully with a dauber or your finger. However, it doesn't give a lasting extra slick finish. - Just liquid Saddle soap This gives a slick finish, but darkens the leather edge a lot and also seems to soak into the leather more, which means messy and uneven looking edges. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water This darkens the edge a bit less (still more than i'd like) and soaks in a bit less, but isn't as slick as just straight up liquid saddle soap. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water, then beeswax, then canvas burnishing. Creates a slick edge, but is very hard to keep clean, and darkens the edge quite a bit. - Gum Tragacanth Creates a good slick edge (one coat is good, two coats is better), but is really really hard to keep clean. Doesn't darken the edge as much as the straight liquid saddle soap, but still darker than I like. One thing I did discover recently is that applying gum trag to the edge with the edge of a toothpick works well for keeping it clean, but is very tedious. Should I maybe burnish the edge with just water first before burnishing with gum trag? would that help keep the trag from seeping onto the face? I guess I'm just hoping that some magician out there has come up with a magical method/product that is easy to apply/won't make a mess/won't darken the edge too much. Haha. I'm also having a hard time with applying beeswax as its hardness makes it difficult to apply a sufficient amount of wax to the edge. I was considering making a mixture of beeswax, olive oil, and eucalyptus oil to stave off mould. I've heard of a beeswax/neatsfoot solution, but would prefer to use olive oil in its place. Does anyone have any experience with a wax/olive oil blend? I prefer not to use any paraffin. Thanks again, Zayne

I was looking for a motorized burnisher to save my hands. Hand burnishing is okay for small things but when you move into working with long edges ... Uggh! So I was looking around for options and I ended up with this setup. I had the cheap Harbor Freight bench grinder that I got on barter a couple years ago. The spindle was $13.10 from eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/TAPERED-SPINDLE-1-2-HOLE-RIGHT-SIDE-OF-MOTOR-POLISHING-BUFFING-WHEEL-HOLDER/190689483141 And the wheel was $8.00 from Tandy. Yeah, I'm cheap ... broke is more like it. But I highly recommend this setup for anyone that needs a little help doing edges and doesn't have a fortune to spend. Enjoy!

Hey all, I have a dumb question. I am trying to get a better burnished edge, I think what I need is to glue some canvas to one of my wooden burnishers for a dremel and use that, rather than doing it by hand. Can any of you tell me what kind of glue to use? and should I overlap the canvas so there are no gaps or just glue it seem-to-seem? Right now all I have is the green weldwood contact cement, some wood glue, and some of that white water based elmers glue. Thanks! Zayne Thanks!

Hi all! Anyone here have experience with / or have tested both the Weaver Master Tools Leather Slicker and the Cobra MP Burnisher? I've read a few posts about making a similar machine with a double grinder, but between the Weaver and Cobra-- which would you prefer?

Hey everyone, I'm looking into buying a motorized burnisher and am wondering what you all would recommend. I have looked online a bit and on this forum, but most everything I've read about is for heavy duty leather, whereas I only 2/3 oz and 3/4 oz leather. I'm wondering if there's specific ones that would work best for me since I don't need anything too heavy duty. Thank you in advance for any input!

Pedestal stand, variable speed, blah blah blah. Little use (still on original sanding drums). Prefer my drill press burnisher.... so this is just setting. In the way. Still Pick up only... fit right in the trunk or truck without issue. No trouble. First $250 ... simple.

Hello, I'm in the market for a 6" splitter, have been looking at a few Landis splitters but am open to other options. Does anyone here have one that they're looking to get rid of? I'm also looking for a good burnisher motor, and a clicker or hydraulic press. Thank you, Andrew

I was thinking about purchasing a couple electric burnishers the other night and ran across a video on Youtube where a guy was using his homemade model. He didn't tell how he made it, but just had pics. I have several old bench grinders that have 1/2" arbors on them, and I have several burnishers that I purchased from someone along the way. Pictured below is my burnisher, and , as stated above, my bench grinders have 1/2" arbors. What else do I need?

Hello folks, some of you may have heard about the tool I have made in collaboration with Justwood over here in the UK. It is a burnisher designed to fit a standard bench grinder that has a 1/2 inch shaft (12.7mm) This is a burnisher with a difference as it is designed not to crush the corners of the leather but more to offer an even pressure to the whole edge giving a stronger and more natural profile. you can get the burnisher directly from Just Wood, just follow the link: http://www.justwood.com/buy/nigel-armitage-just-wood-leather-burnisher_30.htm and you can see it at work here: https://youtu.be/g9aC1BSMOpQ Regards Nigel Armitage Leather www.armitageleather.com

Hi All, Does anyone know of a cocobolo burnisher for dremel drill supplier in the UK? I recently purchased a burnisher but ordered one with a 3/8" steel shaft that is too big for my drill and didn't really want to pay the shipping charge from the US again for another one. Many thanks, Ross

Hi Guys , just thought I would show of my edge burnisher that I made this one is version 2 much more usefull than my first old model that used a washing machine motor and a Handgrinder hub as a gearbox etc etc the new one uses good stuff..... Had a friend who has a Wood Lathe to make me a couple of burnishing rollers of various sizes... to fit my 3/4 inch shaft .... which fits the bearings and casings.... the motor was the worst cost because i bought a brand new one.... as you can see it was easy to make using a bit of scrap steel for the base.... and a few hours assembly.... it works like a ferrari Regars Leatherbaron www.leatherbaron.com

Hi guys Wanna ask if any of you have bought the master tools power edge slicker from Weaver Leather? What's your experience with it? The link is the youtube video of this machine: Looking forward to any advice you may have Jacob

Hello Gang, I used a burnisher tranfering a design. How do I remove the burnished lines before cutting it for the new lines burnished. Is there a trick or something to remove the lines? Thanks Chad