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  1. Hello there Ladies and Gentlemen, I'm hoping one or more of you marvelous sewing machine magicians would be so kind to lend me some advice on this problem that has me at my wits end. Background: I have been sewing nylon webbing using bonded nylon thread, everything has been working fantastically for quite some time until a few days ago. I had a needle break and the machine got jammed, I cleared the jam and got everything going again not thinking much of it. Next time I was back on the machine I noticed skipped stitches and needle thread being cut on occasion. To resolve this, I checked the timing and noticed the hook rotation was retarded according to the factory manual. I went ahead and corrected the hook rotation, made a small tweak to the needle guard, and generally got everything in-line with the factory specs (rotation, hook tip to needle distance, needle guard deflection amount.) I'm not sure if the rotation got knocked out of spec from the jam or if that's how it came set up from the dealer (had them set the machine up after purchase a few years ago.) Testing out the machine after the timing change seems to have resolved the previously mentioned issues, however while testing I have now noticed another problem... Problem: The bobbin thread is pulling up to top of material on corner stitches. When sewing a straight line of stitches the tension balance is fine, however when turning the corner stich knot pulls up like the upper tension is too much - resulting in the upper thread slightly cutting across to the next stitch. I stop and turn when the needle has started to rise and the hook has captured the upper thread. I have never had this problem before, sewing the exact same material, same thread, same needle. It leads me to believe something may have gotten knocked out of spec? I can sew straight for inches and inches with the tension remaining consistent, but as soon as I make a corner stitch the bobbin thread comes to the top. Here's what I have tried, all without luck: Retarding the timing back to where it was before I set it to factory specs Reducing upper thread tension (It lessens the effect of the problem, but the problem still exists and then the balance of tension on the straight stitches is off.) Using more and less bobbin tension with compensated upper tension Turning the material at various different points during the needle stroke New needle Smaller needle It doesn't consistently do this on every corner, I would say 50% of the time when turning material clockwise and 40% of the time when turning the material counter-clockwise. I can't wrap my head around what may be causing the tension balance to shift to the upper side when turning the material? Do any of you gurus have any insight you can lend me? What else can I check? Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this!!
  2. Hello everyone. I hope you're doing well. I'm hoping for some advice in solving my zip installation problems as shown below. This is the first zip I've fitted, and although it turned out ok, it's just ok, and needs to be better. In brief, and for some background, the case you see below was hand stitched with a 2oz leather exterior, a stiffener board, and then a veg tan lining of approx 3oz. I'm wondering if anyone has any advice as to how best to fit a zipper that wraps around the sides of a product, specifically where the zipper and product meet at 90 degrees. More specifically, I'm looking for advice as to how to tackle corners in this situation. I realise in my model that I've attached the zip to close to the edge of the product at the corners, which explains why the gap between the front and back cover are not even all the way around. This I can solve in version two. What I'm not sure about is how to avoid those puckers / pleats at the corners. When I examine commercially available products like this, I notice that there do not seem to be any pleats at the corners, and the zipper fits (in many cases) perfectly. Secondly, when making something like this, how do you all ensure that the outer and inner components align perfectly, so that your stitches are equidistant from the edges? In my case, I pre-marked my stitches, punch a few using my awl, and used a handful of needles to align the components. This was semi-successful. Does anyone have a better solution? I've often been able to solve problems like this by finding a YouTube video or two showing a professional making something similar. This time however I'm stuck for resources. Help! Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer some suggestions. Nick www.madebynick.co.uk
  3. I'm making my first purse / handbag. It is a christmas gift...actually, I'm going to make ten of them. Yeah, I know it's the 16 and I've got nine days left. I got my first one nearly finished last night, and figured out a lot by making some mistakes. The biggest issue I had was sewing around the corners of the gussets. There has to be an easier way, or a trick or something. I tried it a couple of different ways, and I'm not sure any of them are the best option. First, I cut a notch to allow the leather to fold around. Then I just tried to force it into place and sew around. then, I just sewed a straight line across the corner and made it a seperate stitch. Any advice on the best way to accomplish this? As you can see in the pictures, I'm sewing the bags inside out then flipping them to leave the seam on the inside of the bag. This one does not have a liner. On other bags, I'm going to roll the front of the bag, like I did the sides...much better look.
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