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Found 41 results

  1. After much debate I have decided to try and sell my Ludwig 205-370 heavy duty cylinder arm leather stitcher. Due to time constraints from my job I am just not doing enough leather work anymore to justify keeping it and I could really use the room in my shop, so I will sadly let it go. This machine is an exact copy of the Adler 205-370 and operates just as smoothly as the actual Adler I tried at Weaver Leather. It is in fantastic condition and has no issues. If you're not familiar with this model, they will do everything one of the 441 / "Class 4" machines will do and run smoother while doing it. The machine includes a swing-away edge guide, an adjustable height table/stand, auto-bobbin winder, speed reducer, and a quality servo motor. I have a few different presser feet and feed dogs for it, several packages of needles, a few spools of bonded nylon thread, and several bobbins. I also have the Weaver timing device and digital copies of the Adler manuals. I am asking $1,500.00 for the machine and all the accessories I have for it. It would be a tremendous effort to break this thing down and crate it to ship because it's HEAVY and BIG, so I would really prefer local pickup. However, if someone is willing to pay for the effort required to ship it I am willing to do the work as a last resort. I am located near Huntington, WV. Feel free to ask any questions you have about it or if you'd like to see any other pictures. I am not in a bind or "needing" to sell it in any way, so I'm not going to accept any low-ball offers. If I can't get within reason of what it is worth for it, I'll just cover it up and keep it. If interested you can message me here, email me at evandailey@suddenlink dot net, or call or text at 304-six33-489two.
  2. Hi, I love this community of people helping each other, I have read... and read and read, and so now I know that there is no one machine that will suit all of my needs for the rest of my life, I know how a lot of you feel about clones and I feel the same way. I live in an area of the county that has no industrial sewing machine stores remotely near me (29909, Okatie SC) so I will have to buy a machine and have it shipped to me, and set it up myself. I can get a neighbor to help a little bit with physically setting the motor in place. Buying an industrial sewing machine is mainly because my artist uncle died and left me all of his unfinished and will-never-be-able-to-be-sold paintings. These paintings are on canvas and linen with layers of paint - enough to make probably 70 bags. I have tried to make a couple of mock-ups on my home sewing machine and though it's a trooper, of course I am limited (yes I read the post on the difference between home and industrial) but aside from that I want to sew with thicker thread than is possible on a home machine. I want to add leather trim and handles like on the Kuba cloth bag I made at a leather bag making workshop. So I know from my research that I need a cylinder arm, I'd like a binder (I think), let's pretend price is no object (because I think the machines are priced competitively and you get what you pay for) and since there is no one around to service the machine I need one that will not break down (is that possible?). I know I want a servo motor. I believe that a 3/8 sewing thickness will be enough. I think that I need a walking foot. I think in my case it's best to buy a new machine. The help I am asking for here is if you could please tell me if I should look any further than Juki, and which company you can recommend I buy it from. I looked longingly at a Juki 1342-7. I do love the thread trimmer on my home machine but have heard it is very expensive on an industrial machine. Maybe you will tell me that since I live in such a remote place that it really is not a good idea to even buy an industrial machine until I move somewhere else one day. If that is the case I would really appreciate the honesty. The paintings will not deteriorate with time. Thank you, PossumBean
  3. And they shall call him "Hoss" Cartwright... My Cowboy 3200 arrived thanks to Bob at Toledo Sewing. As soon as he was unboxed all I could think of was the fond memories I have of watching Bonanza as a child every night with my Mom and Dad. Yes I'm one of those lames, or real kool people, however you look at it, that names all her machines. My Seiko's name is Frankie Beverly (the singer) and the other 4 domestics have names too. The Cowboy reminded me of the gentle giant HOSS CARTWRIGHT. I'm so impressed with the control of this machine. I can creep and crawl and still stick with a solid punch just like Hoss! There is a learning curve and I've watched the many good vids on youtube especially by Ryan Neel/ Hightex and I'm diving in. There was even one that really demonstrates the range of this machine where a guy was sewing very thin bandanas. He used thin fleece material and a very thin leather and the Cowboy 3200 handled it like a charm. From thick to thin. I'm excited can't you tell? I'm sure I will seek the expertise of you good people as I go along... I can hear the Bonanza theme music now....YeeeHawwww!!
  4. Hi all,does anyone out there know anything about the sewpro 1341 or sewpro 1342? Upon a YouTube search of the Juki ls 1341,I discovered this machine. The dealer,SEWPRO USA,happens to be located in Ephrata Pennsylvania,which happens to be in the heart of Amish and Menninite country. There is a large demand for horse products in this area which also happens to be close to me.I don't know anything about Sewpro USA or the quality of their sewing machines and was hoping someone out there would know something or have used their machines. The only thing I've heard is sewpro makes a great servo gear reduction motor,the 500GR. I am curious if anyone has experience with their sewing machines and if so are they of good quality?. I am assuming they are made in China but do not know this for a fact. I would love to have a Juki but the price is pretty hefty for my budget. I will be visiting the dealer early next week to check out the machines first hand and meet Sergey.Is there anything I should look for (red flags) poor quality, or on the other hand,well built and quality? I am hoping to find an industrial machine dealer in my area, that I can count on should the need for parts,support,etc.and not be a 700 mile drive should the need arise in the future. Any tips and input would be greatly welcome and appreciated! I'm hoping this turns out to be a good thing, and will let you all know the outcome. Thanks !
  5. Hi all! I am new to this site and fairly new to leatherwork. I love it but have found myself sort of on my own with technical things on a day to day basis which can be frustrating and slow for production. I recently bought a Hi-Lead GA2668 cylinder arm walking foot machine. I am having a problem with my foot when top stitching. I can't see the stitches as they are being formed making it very hard to sew an exact straight line. I was wondering could anyone post a photo of the foot they use on their cylinder arm which they find great for top stitching ? (a foot which gives you a view of the needle meeting the leather or something like this) I cannot thank you enough for any help or guidance you may be able to offer on this issue . Advance thanks form a struggling beginner .
  6. I make all sorts of leather luggage, from hard cases to soft bags... a lot of my production had been done in Istanbul up till this point, however I am now transitioning all of the manufacturing to my tiny little shop in Montana. That being said I have been doing all of my prototype work and some custom work on my Juki 1541, but when it comes to soft bags and duffles a cylinder arm machine is what I am in need of (at least if I want to prevent further fits of rage and possible injury). That being said, to this point the majority of my work is done with 138 thread and anywhere from 3-8oz leather. I am really looking for a dependable machine that will transition from thick to thin really nicely, and last for years. Up till now I have been considering and Adler model 69-373, as well as and Adler 269-373. I know there are some other great options out there and to be honest I don't even know if the previous models will do everything I would like. The fact that I live in Montana means that I don't really have the option to go out an try a bunch of machines, however here is what I really would like to accomplish with this purchase. be able to sew thin leathers as well as thick. (I don't think I needed to sew anything thicker than 3/8in to this point, however better safe than sorry so maybe a 1/2" capability would be nice?) I currently use 138 thread, but could definetly see the use of thicker thread being nice. I don't see myself needing anything below 69 thread. great transitions from thick to thin. Thin cylinder arm for rolling around tight corners. With all this said, I think the Model 69 maxes out at thread 138 but I am not sure on the 269. Also, I don't know what thickness of material can be run through either of the machines. If anyone has any other suggestions (Randall, Consew, Pfaff, Juki or anything else), or has a machine that fits my needs that they would like to part with let me know... also I am interested in a double needle machine that will do the same as above. Thanks in advance for any help. If I need to clarify anything please let me know.
  7. I'm new to leather working. So far, all I've made are a few belts, dog collars, and dog harnesses. I've done these on a flatbed sewing machine. I'm looking for a more heavy duty machine, and I'm having a difficult time understanding why leather workers go with the cylinder arm? I'd really love to have a cylinder arm machine with a plate attachment and table that gave the machine the equivalent amount of worktop space as a typical flatbed machine. I'm considering building such a setup myself, but I don't know why yet. I don't imagine myself ever taking the flatbed off, because I don't know how the cylinder arm is used. Would anyone mind helping a newbie understand? Thanks so much!
  8. Hi all, Need your help again please. I am very new to sewing machine, I found this Pfaff 335 online: http://www.valesew.co.uk I contacted the seller and was told that the machine is brand new. I am wondering if you can advise me what subclass this is, and tip on how to check if the machines are genuinely made not a counterfeit or used. How could I check that? Also where can I find technical info on this machine? I downloaded a leaflet but it doesn't say much sadly. I told the seller that I am planning to sew 3/8" max (veg tan leather + fabric) he doesn't seem to think it will take that thickness? Many thanks!
  9. Fore Sale Juki 441, extra heavy duty sewing machine for sale. bought it couple of month ago for hobby. I am unable to use the machine now as I am occupied with work and studies and soon will be moving from the place and hence for sale. Comes with 1. servo motor, 2. speed reduction pulley setup. 3. and additional saddle foot attachments and needles worth 300£ I don't have to boost about the machine, as everybody on this forum knows about this beast. as mentioned, I am moving so I am quit open to reasonable offers please contact via massage. thank you
  10. Hello everyone, My first post ever. I am very new to leather crafting, so forgive me I do not speak mechanic language. I have decided to join this forums after reading Wizcrafts's The Type Of Sewing Machine You Need To Sew Leather I learnt a lot from it but I cannot make up my mind which machine that will be suitable for me. Here is my situation: I am sewing leather bag, purse, clutch bags, tote bags etc, using 1-5oz leather with fabric so about 1/4" including the fabric lining for the body, about 3/8" max for straps/handle/thick joints I use veg tanned top grain leather (not sure if that makes any difference to picking a machine?) I am based in Ireland so I have very limited options/choices available to consider I have decided a cylinder arm, walking foot with compound feed will be good for my needs, so I have ruled out any flat bed or post arm machines. I am seeking your advice/opinion on the following machines, one of which I will (hopefully) end up buying: Durkopp Adler 669 - 180010 E3 Durkopp Adler 69 / 069 subclass unknown (Used) perhaps you can tell by this photo? It was listed with 6 months warranty. Highlead GC2698-1BN Highlead GC2268 Consew 277R-3 Juki TSC-441 Juki DSC-244 / DSC-245 / DSC-246 - I don't know what the differences between these three are?? They have the same info on seller's website Juki LS-1341 Can you please let me know what you think about the above and based on my requirements and which would you prefer to go with if it was you? And if not to much to ask, can you also help me with the following questions: what machine needle and thread size is suitable for stitching double layers of veg tanned 4-5oz leather straps/handle? what needle and thread size is best for single layer veg tanned 4-5oz with medium weight fabric? I have been hand stitching and as much as I enjoy hand stitching I would love to get the basic putting the pieces together done quicker on a machine. Many thanks in advance.
  11. Howdy, I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out why my Pfaff 335 is marking my leather, especially at the start of a stitch line where I backtack. I've attempted to lighten the pressure of the presser-feet by backing off the knurled nob at the top of the machine, to the point it is barely hanging on to the machine, but it doesn't seem to have much of an impact. The inner presser foot seems to be fine, but the out foot is an issue. I've even placed my finger under the presser foot (machine off and needle out of course) to see if I can feel any difference in the pressure bing applied... I'm not sure what it should feel like, but its heavy. Seems like the the top pressure is not being affected by loosening the knob on top. That said, I haven't a clue what I'm doing. I've included a few picture to show how loose the top knob is, the position of the presser feet (they seem a bit canted to the left) and the marks being left on the leather. BTW... I'm stitching 3-4oz harness leather from Wicket & Craig. Any ideas whats going on here?
  12. Im looking for a cylinder arm machine that is best for sew messenger bag gusset corners. Any ideas? I understand a cylinder arm is the best option but which one im not sure. The leather is a 7-8oz in the picture below. Also what attachments are the best to use?? Presser feet?? Seam Guides?? needle plates??
  13. Adler 205-RM 25 SP 75 Cylinder Arm Heavy Duty Sewing Machine I am selling this machine to make room for a Cobra Class 4, and hopefully to find someone who can use its unusual optional function. This machine has a lever on the back, actuated by a foot lever, that when engaged, causes a shirring action. This makes the top feed and the bottom feed to pull different amounts of material, making the sewing of items like pucker toe mocassins much easier. I have no need of this function, so I would like to offer the machine up for sale so someone who does need this rare function can use it. The machine also functions normally, feeding top and bottom at the sae rate whenever you wish. The shirring function is only engaged when the shirring pedal is pressed. The machine is on a stand with a clutch motor and a speed reducer. 2 packets of needles are included, system 214x1 or DDx1, size 230 2 extra Bobbins are included One extra foot is included The brazed needle plate is being replaced with a new one from the manufacturer The bobbin case cover has been ordered as well. Bobbin winder is icluded Thread stand is included The cones of thread in the photos are not included, they were on the machine only to show the stitch quality Manuals included in PDF format: Adler 205 Operating Instructions, Adler 205 Mechanic's Instructions, Adler Class 205 Leaflets Parts Diagram also included as a hard copy. This is a very heavy machine, so palletizing and shipment via freight carrier is reccomended. I can also deliver it in southern California, for a fee, which will vary depending on your distance from Lake Elsinore/Wildomar. If you are very close, I can deliver for free. Pick up is always available for free. Steve at Cobra (Leather Machine Co.) is ordering the new parts it needs and fixing this up, so you know it is being done right! Asking price is $1650 Will consider offers. Respond to this post or PM me if you are interested.
  14. Hello, I am really new to the forum, but this place has been a grt place, to help me start with a leather projects & crafts. after working for while, I decided to buy a machine and I need in terms of recommendations, feedbacks etc., in help buying cylinder arm machine. which is capable of using big thread and needle size to work with Bridle butt leather of 2 to 3 layer of 10 to 13 oz leather. I am considering of buying singer 45k89, with alternative foot. But, i read so many post and articles on this forum about foot marks left on the work piece (veg tan/bridle leathers). I looked around and I kind of made up my mind to go with adler 105-64 needle feed, which I believe can help in reducing the marks on the leather, since its a needle feed and i can grind the grooves on the feed dog! I will be delightful, if member of this forum can help me in deciding, to which cylinder arm machine to go for ? and where can I buy it from. People who are willing to sell their adler 105-45 or any cylinder arm sewing machine within uk, inbox me with price and other details? NB: I am not willing to spend too much, looking somewhere around 400£ to 500£ Any feedback or response will be very much appreciated. Thank you Quote MultiQuote Edit
  15. Hello, I am really new to the forum, but this place has been a grt place, to help me start with a leather projects & crafts. after working for while, I decided to buy a machine and I need in terms of recommendations, feedbacks etc., in help buying cylinder arm machine. which is capable of using big thread and needle size to work with Bridle butt leather of 2 to 3 layer of 10 to 13 oz leather. I am considering of buying singer 45k89, with alternative foot. But, i read so many post and articles on this forum about foot marks left on the work piece (veg tan/bridle leathers). I looked around and I kind of made up my mind to go with adler 105-64 needle feed, which I believe can help in reducing the marks on the leather, since its a needle feed and i can grind the grooves on the feed dog! I will be delightful, if member of this forum can help me in deciding, to which cylinder arm machine to go for ? and where can I buy it from. People who are willing to sell their adler 105-45 or any cylinder arm sewing machine within uk, inbox me with price and other details? NB: I am not willing to spend too much, looking somewhere around 400£ to 500£ Any feedback or response will be very much appreciated. Thank you
  16. Hi gang, I started [trying to] sew leather handbags about 6 months ago and have been lurking here ever since to get a better feel for industrial machines and which one I need. I feel like I already know you all! I live in the southwest, not exactly a hotbed for used walking foot, cylinder arm machines... So I've been keeping my eye out for a Pfaff 335/Consew 227 head to have shipped here, for my local sew-n-vac guy ("Joe") to put on a table with a servo, hoping to get it all done for under a grand - I'm a little skittish about investing any more than that before I know what I'm doing and where my business is going to go. I figure anything I buy will be near impossible to resell around here if I change my mind. For what it's worth I'm sewing up to 4 layers of ~2oz leather, nothing too burly, plus some occasional upholstery fabrics and sunbrella. I have an older domestic Bernina that is great for anything lighter. But then! Joe comes into a Brother LS3-C53 (I think it's a C53B), which he'll install and purty up for me for $1500. It is one sexy beast. Older but very lightly used. A bit more machine than I was looking for or need, but I'd have the advantage of buying something I've met in person, from someone local. I've googled pretty thoroughly and haven't been able to find a manual on it or any specs, although I know it's in the same general class as Pfaff 345 / Consew 227. My questions: - What are its specs? (clearance, bobbin, needle/thread size range)? Joe says "it will work for what you want to do", ok I know that, but I want details. - What will it be like finding finding parts, feet? Is it interchangeable with other makes? - Anything else I should ask? I've looked around and think this is a great price, but spending $500 more than I budgeted is a big deal for me, especially if this is heavier duty than I need. I really don't mind sewing on a clunker til I know what I'm doing. Thanks so much for any thoughts. Hopefully I'll have finished work to brag about soon! -joy
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