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Showing results for tags 'dye'.
Found 188 results
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Hi there! I'm pretty new to leatherwork and am having some issues with staining. I'm using eco-flo gel antique on some bracelet blanks, but once they're all coloured the dye seems to sticking in all the little pore-like dots in the leather and I can't get it out. This makes it look a little dirty and uneven. As I said, I'm still new to leather work so I don't know if this is something I'm doing wrong? Or something wrong with the leather or the antique? I've attached a picture of the bracelet in question, so you can see what I'm talking about and 'cause my description probably isn't that good! I'd really appreciate any advice anyone has to help me out Thanks! -
I'm new to leather craft and would you all please walk me through how you dye and finish your leather projects? There are so many products out there I am at a lost as of what to do that will have lasting results. I have made a few flask covers that I have dyed with the Eco Flo all in one stain and finish, and then sprayed with an acrylic finish, but I'm thinking that may not be the best route. I'm looking for a way that I can dye and add bright colors while still being able to put a product to the test (like horse tack that is exposed to sweat and water.) Would you all be able to walk me through the process as well as reference the products you use to dye and finish and possibly waterproof your leather projects? Do you recommended using oil based dyes vs water based? Would you recommend using acrylic paint to add color to projects or colored dyes? My biggest concern is dying leather for use like for horse tack and having the dyes smear all over your hands when you go to use it or smear all over the horse when it sweats. Then when you finish your project what products do you use to condition it and keep it supple and lasting without damaging the colors? Sorry to ask so many questions but there isn't much of a resource (that I've found) to answer these questions. I appreciate it!! - Jenn -
Hello, I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction as far as dyeing leather with indigo goes. I love the color it produces, and I am not a huge fan of using oil based dyes. I'd like to dye leather with actual indigo. Has anyone had any experience with this? -
I was wondering if anyone else if have problems dyeing the tandy sides that were sold on black Friday and to see if there is someway to dye them better? -
Hello, I have a dilemma. I am looking for a good brown to dark brown dye. I used fiebings pro oil dyes in the past with good results, but I do not like how toxic they are, and won't be using them. I looked into Tandy's Eco-Flo dyes, and in doing research, I found a leatherworker.net thread with a bunch of people talking about how they had ruined projects by the dye turning a greenish color, and I don't want to chance that. I actually spent a lot of time and effort brewing a batch of black walnut dye a few weeks ago, and I am not at all happy with the results. It takes WAY too many applications to get to dark brown, and WAY too much time (oiling, then waiting for it to dry, applying the dye, and waiting for it to dry, repeat). I have tried multiple ways of dying the leather with the black walnut dye, only to get disappointing results. Long story short, I would like a brown/dark brown low VOC leather dye that is not fiebings pro oil dye, or tandy Eco-Flo. Any suggestions? Thanks! Zayne
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I'm looking for help or an idea on how to get fumes out of my leather shop. I have a wall or ceiling I can put a vent though. The things I use most that have fumes are barge cement and leather dyes. Generally if at all weather permitting I try to do these things outside but I can't always do that. If anyone has a exhaust fan installed in their shop or if you have any experience with this I would greatly appreciate any help. Thank you, Anna -
I have been a visitor of this site for many years and can usually find the answer to my question without having to post (seems like everything I come across someone else has already figured out) but this one doesn't seem to have been answered before. My father bought a set of rawhide romal reins out of Mexico. The rawhide appears to have been bleached and he can't stand the color so he asked if I could figure something out. I have never worked with rawhide before so I'm unsure of the best way to go about this. I know a lot of people use coffee to dye their strands but this is done before the braiding begins. We both agreed that a similar color would be good if we could get it to take without destroying the reins. My concern is that if I soaked them in coffee the braid on either the body or the buttons would loosen or curl and the reins would be ruined? I also thought spraying or wiping them down might be safer and producer a good result? Lastly, I thought maybe I would dye some rawhide cream then work the conditioner into the reins (since the conditioner is supposed to be safe for finished products)? Has anyone ever tried something like this before that could lend some advice? If not maybe some insight as to what could be expected if I follow any of the outlined ideas above? Any advice would be very much appreciated. I have attached a few pictures of the reins so you can see what I'm working with. Thanks in advance.
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Hi all. Relative beginner here. I finally found some dye locally. I found a local shoemaker that was willing to sell me a babyfood jar full of dye, as well as some leather cream and sealant. He said he can't get them locally either, he imports it all from China. Here's an album of my completed dye job Anyways--I did the following: 1) applied the die on thick with a piece of cotton. I did two coats. After the second coat I let it dry for about 24 hours. I don't know what kind of dye this is, but it's very very thick and seems oil based. 2) I buffed the heck out of it until it got shiny and no color came off on the buffing cloth. 3) applied the cream, waited a few hours, applied again. waited overnight. 4) applied the spray sealant. waited a few hours then buffed. Now here are my problems: 1) The finish feels very "plasticky" it no longer really feels like natural leather. Is this because of the kind of dye I'm using? Or something wrong with my application process. 2) The leather cream seemed to dissolve the dye and make it come up (that's where there are patchy areas in my dye job. It was completely covered but the cream made it come up.) I assume I need a different type of oil because this one has some solvent in it. A new kind of oil will be next on my list. I might start with olive oil if i can't find anything more specific to leather. 3) The leather gets finger prints on it now. Any tips on what I'm doing wrong? Or things I should try differently? I'm probably 6 or 7k miles from the nearest Tandy, so looking for advice on how to work with what I've got. Thanks as always! I know there's a lot of wisdom around here. -
I'm trying to find a non-toxic pigment/ dye to paint designs on veg tanned leather and suede for making baby moccasins. I know "natural" is not always least toxic but it's a place to start. I've spoken to dharma trading and they recommended trying this non toxic pigment dye, even though it is meant for fabric not leather. http://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-pigment-dye.html I have these romantic notions of watercolouring the leather using reduced indigo but I don't know how practical that is. http://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/pre-reduced-indigo-crystals.html Also found this pigment from dharma but it has to be mixed with soda ash (is that just baking soda?) but it says you can use it on leather http://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-fiber-reactive-procion-dyes.html?lnav=paints.html#reviews Would love your thoughts or recommendations! I haven't got the leather yet for experimenting. Thank you. Kate
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Hey guys, I've been painting my edges with the same Fiebings Pro Oil Dyes that I use for my projects and was curious about the difference between the Pro Oil Dyes and Edge Kote, I've never used Edge Kote so I have no experience with it! Thanks for the help. Cheers, Lourenço
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Anyone here ever add dye to gum trag for a colored glossy finish? I'm willing to try it and report my results, but thought I would check here first so I'd know what to expect. -
I am working on refurbishing my first pair of Chaps and I want to know the Best way of Dye/staining them back to the original colour (or close to) They are a pair dark brown riding chaps, and where the inner calf/thigh touch the saddle the colour has faded (yellowy) (rubbed away). I would like them coloured back to dark brown, BUT when riding in them I don't want the colour to rub off onto the saddle... ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated! -
I'm looking for a purple dye, but the color swatch for the fieblings dark purple is quite dark. Has anyone used purple dye and do you have pictures of a finished product so I can see how the color turned out?
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Dye Coming Of
AFG posted a topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Hi there, and thanks for reading. I recently got a Bellino Messenger bag. It works great mechanically. Upon arrival I applied mink oil to give the leather a nicer feel and to preserve it (to the best of my knowledge). There were several types of leather use in the construction of the bag. The thicker, tougher leather used for gussets and reinforcements reacted well to the oil. The softer, silkier, thinner leather used on pockets and the front and back faces of the bag did not react well (I'm not actually sure these parts are leather, though the bag is advertised as 100% leather, leather from what animal, I am not so sure about). The dye on this thinner leather is now coming off after the mink oil application! I let the oil set for about a week in hopes the oil would be absorbed more and still, the same problem persists. A wipe from a dry paper towel shows show the dye is slowly being removed from the bag. Since the oil caused the dye to come off, I would think the dye is oil-based and not alcohol based like the dye in the thicker bits of leather. Images detailing the damage are attached. Is there a way to restore and seal the dye on my bag? Thanks again for reading. -
Hi All, Please help! I'm going bonkers here. I just got some black Wickett and Craig english bridle leather and it's not struck through. I would like to dye the edges black but am seeking some advise from those who have done this before on bridle. Did you use oil or spirit based dye? Then sealed with beeswax then resolene? or just sealed with beeswax? I have tried spirit dye, then beeswax, but am still getting dye rub off. This would be for a handbag with shoulder strap, so wet (rain, sweat) on straps + clothes is not a combo I want to worry about. Also, on the grain side of this bridle leather, it's coming off with a cloth...does this mean it was a bad dye job? I seem to remember on their site it specifically says that this leather does not need a finish. Thanks. -
The title is pretty self explanitory. I am wondering how you darken natural leather without the use of dyes or stains. I have a dark brown dye. But to get an even coat without an air brush requires multiple coats and it darkens it a ton. How would I get a light brown color without dying or staining? I would prefer something that started out very light, maybe 2 or 3 shades darker than natural, and got darker with multiple applications. Thanks Zayne
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I have searched the forums but havent found any good answers. I like oil dye, as I haven't had any problems with it, and I havent tried any water/alcohol based dyes yet. I use cut resolene as a finish, and I heard people have had issues with water/alcohol based dyes coming off when using it. Anyways, I would like to create my own custom colors of dye, whether that requires making dyes from scratch or mixing two existing dyes. I am looking to make colors like indigo/navy, maroon/dark red, and dark green. What is the best way to achieve this? I use feibings pro oil dye now, but I am completely open to suggestions. Thanks Zayne
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Hi everyone I thought I would share some results in light fastness of dyes and finishes. First let me say I was not making these test pieces to test light fastness but was testing for waterproof finishes with zero dye bleed on thin flexible veg tan. So far no luck on that one. When flexed all the finishes caused water spotting which often spotted the dye. So I ended up with all these tests cut from the same leather and thought heck lets hang em in the window and see what happens. Here is the result after about three weeks or so. I kept reading about resolene having UV protector in it well sorry folks I contacted Fiebings and there is no UV protector in resolene. That said although the difference is slight it was the most protective. However I was using it 50/50 with water and where the coverage was not completely even the sun faded and marked the dye. I hate using resolene and plan to order some angelus 600 to try at some point. I get a nicer more water resistant finish with folk art satin varnish but it is shiny and not UV protective either according to my test. So I tried ceramcoat matte varnish (interior /exterior) as it gives a nice finish but didn't pass the water test on thin leather when flexed and is it also does not have UV protection. Just like resolene, people on line say it has UV protector in it (Amazon sellers for example). So I contacted the manufactures and no it does not have added UV protection. I forgot to enquire about the folk art satin made by the same company. As an aside ceramcoat was my bullet proof go to varnish but it seems to me the formula has changed and I am out of my old supply :-( While all the dyes faded the areas with a finish of some sort had significantly less sun darkening of the leather under the dye thus there is obviously some UV protection but not enough to protect the fugitive dyes. Where there was just kiwi shoe polish or bees wax the leather sun darkened a lot. The red dye changed the least. I am planning to make a folding green man camp chair so I really need to solve this puzzle of both water protection, UV protection, dye bleed and flexibility. Some things I am going to try in the future (money and time withstanding) is angelus acrylic finish, silicon for shoes and car products to stop fading. Anyhow I will keep ya posted on the eventual results. Hope this is of some help to someone. Cheers, Toolingaround PS sorry for being so long winded -
I recently bought leather belt blanks and would like to dye them white. I am very new to leather working and would like to know if it is safe to use acrylic dye on something like a belt. It is for a costume and won't be going through any belt loops on pants. I am also hoping to make white belt accessories, such as small harnesses for bottles and am unsure what kind of leather (I don't want suede) I should use if I am going to use acrylic dyes. I am attaching pics of items similar to what I hope to craft. Thank you in advance for your help.
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Im making a little card wallet for my girlfriend, and ive oiled it with extra virgin olive oil , and have applied the dye , i used ox blood which is really nice but its very difficult to get a nice even coat . if you guys have any tips on dying to get an even coat speak your mind please BUT ! my main problem after an hour drying i started buffing with some white paper towel and it just keeps coming off , ! there doesnt seem to be any end to it coming off. Am i doing something wrong or do i just have to keep buffing ? Did i leave it long enough to dry ? and what is a good finish to put on a wallet ? -
I always hear that you should buff leather after you dye it. However, I don't know exactly what that means. I use feibings pro oil dye. I am making belts currently but will be making other items in the future. I dye the inside of the belt, even when using black (yes, I know), because I don't like how it looks undyed. How does one "buff"? What stage do I buff? After the final resolene finish or right after I dye before I do anything else? And what is the best way to avoid sealing the leather on the flesh side to avoild bleeding? I have heard that using 50/50 resolene on top of gum trag is the way to go. Is that recommended? Thanks! Zayne
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I am making glove holders for firefighter gloves. I am using 8oz veg tan leather. I then stamping then dyeing with spirit or water based dye. Buffing, Buffing and Buffing. Then I am applying my acrylic paint that has been thinned with water in thin layers. Letting that dry and then finish with Satin Sheen. The problem is with in a few days the acrylic Is coming off. What am I doing wrong? -
Hello, I am about to dip dye several small pieces of leather and I am looking for a good way to dry them on some sort of shelf or rack. Does anyone have any good idea for a rack system of drying, say if you have to dry 100 small pieces and couldn't fill up all your tables? There must be some sort of plastic grating that allows airflow? Thanks!!
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I completed my first belt last night. I also cut out two other belts and dyed them with fiebings oil dye (Black and Dark Brown). I have a few questions, as this is my first time doing any of this. When dying, a lot of people say not to dye the flesh side of the belt, as it may rub off over time. but what if you use gum trag on the back, over the top of the dye? Will that help with the dye not bleeding? Also, I bought edge kote (black and brown). What is the difference between the edge kote and the normal dye? If i used the edge kote, would i put it on at the same time that I dye the rest of the belt? Then afterwards, bevel and burnish? or would i bevel and burnish before dying? The belt if completed was natural, and not dyed. I noticed that when I beveled and burnished the edges, some of the water soaked onto the surface of the belt, and darkened it slightly. should I save burnishing for after i apply whatever finish/conditioner i apply? or does it matter? Sorry for all of the questions. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
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Hey people . any one know how i get this effect on leather ? what kind of dye is used ? or what technique is used to apply it ?
