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Showing results for tags 'dye'.
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I'm playing around/experimenting with a technique I found in a book. These are thin veg tan (1mm) that I wetted and wrinkled, and then dyed (Fiebing's Pro Dye, dark brown), intentionally uneven. This will become the outside of a wallet. The book didn't mention sealer, unfortunately, so I'm trying to figure out what to use to prevent dye rub off. I initially tried Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax on a sample, but I noticed what appears to be wax settled into the tiny creases. It looks a bit like when you wax a car, but can't get the wax out of a trim part, whiteish residue. Also, overall blueish tint. Any suggestions for what would seal the dye without this whiteish residue issue? I prefer a matte finish that doesn't look like finish. Would an oil of some sort prevent dye rub off? I don't think waterproofing is an issue since it's a wallet, and won't be subject to weather. -
Hi all! I'm new to the community here and new to leather work/restoration in general. I got a very soft old Perry Ellis lambskin black leather jacket which needed to be redyed. After some research I chose Fiebings pro dye black for the job. The re-dye went okay and I've also conditioned with Bick 4 but now I need to make sure there's no rub-off before I start wearing it. Plan A was to just buff it until there's no more rub-off but I've done a ton already and there's no end in sight, plus the leather is old and delicate and it seems like it may not hold up to much more vigorous buffing. Plan B, which may seem like the obvious choice to more experienced people, is to apply a sealing acrylic finish. I was resistant to this because the leather is super soft and seems pretty delicate and I worry that putting a layer of acrylic over it would ruin it. Also I feel like the gloss of an acrylic finish might not look too good on this surface (though I know diluting it can help on that front). I don't see any way around it so I'm planning to apply some Fiebings Resolene diluted with water to 50/50, or if it would work, I might even try diluting it further to more like 1:2 for a more matte finish. My questions are: 1. Is the acrylic topcoat the right/only way to go? Can a soft old lambskin jacket like this hold up to that? Or is there another/better option? 2. Can Resolene work at lower concentrations for a more matte finish or do I need to stick to 50/50 3. Bonus kind of unrelated question: that wrinkly collar is a little annoying, is there anything I can do about that? Thanks so much in advance! P.s. I know I may have over-applied the dye and there could be other things I could do differently in the future to avoid this problem, but I'm mainly just interested in how to proceed from where I'm at. Thank you!
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Has any one tried this method? Found this picture on Facebook, the owner might be on here, I'm going to find a finer spraying nozzle and give it a go!
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what is the best way to clean my brushes after dying? used 90% alcohol and murphys soap, but what is the best?
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Hi everyone! First time visiting Leatherworker.net, so please bear with me if my post is in the wrong thread, or if my problem is not suitablefor this site. I'm at my wits end here, so I'm hoping someone can shed some light on whats going on here: I decided to try to dye a pair of painted whole cut oxfords, in an attempt to make them darker. The leather is originally painted, medium brown. I'm dying them with a very dark brown, Saphir Teinture franscaise. (I cleaned the leather with Saphir Renomat before applying the dye). After applying dye in three rounds, the leather (surprisingly) seems to take the dye well, darkening the color evenly. But on both shoes there is an area of about 1x2 inches that doesn't seem to take the dye. This area remains the original color (but with a super matte surface). When applying dye to the area the leather immediatly absorbes the dye and dries up. On the rest of the leather the dye takes 5-10 minutes to dry/absorbe. I've tried dying the problem area with additional two rounds of dye, but it just keeps absorbing it immediatly, without any change in color. What's going on here, and what can I so to solve this? Any tips or thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi everyone this is my first post ever on here and I'm hoping to get help. I've been leather crafting for a long while and I can't figure out how to prevent "spotty" dyeing like in the picture. It doesn't always happen but I can't figure out how or why it happens when it does. In this picture I used Angelus Jade color dye and airbrushed it on. All the white spots seem to be where the dye didn't absorb in. I did use acetone to deglaze it before I dyed it. Has anyone else ever had this problem? And is there a way to fix it or even prevent it from happening again?
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I am using leather that I bought from the same company in two different widths. I am using Royal Blue dye diluted 1:4 with denatured alcohol. Same amount of coats on both pieces. The smaller strap is the color I'm going for. Both deglazed before hand. I had some bad luck wetting the leather, neetsfoot, etc. So I just deglazed and dyed.applied both the same with a sponge or dauber. I noticed that on my rag there, it seems there is a bit of pink/red almost leeching out of the diluted dye. That would make sense because red + blue = purple. But why would that even happen anyway? The flesh side looking closer to the shade I was chasing. Does anyone have any insight to what could be going on here? I wasted so much leather chasing that perfect color. I had it mixed in a plastic disposable Tupperware type container. Thanks!! -
Hi! I know this has been discussed a bunch so I apologize for any redundancy but I still have a question. I’m making tooled panels to go on a pair of converse, using premium veg-tan from Hide House. -Tooled, cleaned with rubbing alcohol (didn’t have deglazer and figured it was close), -Dyed the background with fiebings black water based dye. I did three coats and dried overnight. -Lightly oiled(olive oil), dried for atleast half an hour. -Applied Tankote and the dye is rubbing off-and transferring onto the undyed areas, not all of it but definitely getting splotchy if I rub it too much. I tried to delicately apply the tankote in hopes of sealing it and not disturbing it. Now that it’s dried overnight it feels sealed and doesn’t SEEM to be rubbing off, but worried it will if they get wet at all. Questions being, I was reading resolene may be more appropriate for this application? More waterproof as well(seeing as they’re going on shoes)? Also do I need to buff the leather and get off any dye that wants to run(and at that point can I even touch it up since it’s already got tankote on it) or should I just seal it with a 50/50 resolene(or tan kote if that’s more appropriate) and it will stay put? Planning to antique as well but waiting to sort out the dye issue before I go any further. Appreciate any advice, thanks so much for your time! photo attached, go easy on me it’s only like my third time tooling something -
Hello, I have been looking for a way to add color to Fiebings Neutral Antique Paste Finish, but I don't want to use an acrylic paint to add the color. I want it to use Fiebings dye, but I don't know if it will mess with how the pastes acts. Any and all help is greatly apreceated! Thanks!
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Right then, ordered some vegtan butt, which arrived this morning. It appears spot on and I've never had an issue with this tannery before. I cut off two strips for a belt in the making and dyed both. I immediately noticed an odd colouring and marbling. I just completed a dark blue belt about two weeks ago without issue using a different leather. It near on appears purple and this marbling effect... I did a test piece of the blue and it looks as it should. I need to contact the tannery, obviously. This marbling effect... is that from the tannage or the bull itself? The fact that dark blue (Pro Dye) is leaving this a slight purple, it makes me wonder on the tannage. I am unsure what caused this, hence asking here. Cheers!
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Hi, I work for a company outside of the US that manufactures products that are made from leather. Up until now we used to by the processed leather after it was dyed and now we are looking into doing the process in house . We have tried a few ways of dying the skin black and met with companies in Europe but didnt reach the result we were looking for. We were told that there is alot of companies in the US the specializes in these kind of things and have a lot of knowledge. Since we are a big company we are looking to work and purchase on a large scale once we find the right company to work with. If anyone has any insight on this topic or know any good companies in the state that specializes in this that we can meet with, I would really appreciate it if they could send me in the right direction. Thanks!
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Hi, Leathercraft is a new hobby for me, so I'm acquiring tools as I go. My first set of leather stamps just came in, and I'm itching to use them. The project I have on the bench right now is a checkbook cover made from a 5 oz veg tan. It is coming together nicely, but a border stamp would look great on it. I've already dyed the leather. (Fiebing's pro dye if that matters.) Am I too far along in the process to add that stamping? I dont want to ruin what I've already done, but I have the new tool itch Thanks
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I dyed one of my best saddles with fiebings pro dye dark brown, and it turned almost black. I’m so sad and it looks hideous. Is there any way to lighten, bleach it or take the dye out? I would love to save it ❤️❤️❤️
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Hello! Extreme newbie here. I'm wondering if there is a difference between using a few coats of oil or using a brown dye to achieve a dark brown look than the original veg tan natural color. Is one a superior method? Thank you for any and all help.
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I make jewelry/accessories and am trying to optimize my process to make things more consistently etc. Starting with embossed veg tan leather. I currently am using mostly tandy black dye (I am not partial to it -- would be happy with anything affordable that I can buy in bulk). I then apply a sheen coat of a metallic angelus paint with a roller, so the black low areas show up nicely. Then I have been applying tandy ecoflo with a dauber but find it messes up the paint layer. I have read about this in other strings (thank you!) and am trying to resolve. Suggestions I read about include using an air brush, which I may consider in the future. (I already am playing with tests using a simple spray bottle for comparison and it does speed things up when I have a lot of small pieces). I also saw there was a debate between ecoflo, resolene, and a mop & glo suggestion (that I haven't yet jumped on). Specifically what I'm wondering is if I can just seal the DYE coat before I apply the paint, and then skip sealing the paint layer? Will the paint layer be safe and ok for use if it is unsealed? Angelus paints are acrylic but they sell their own acrylic sealer which they say prevents scratching. (Their target customers are mostly custom shoe painters, which is not what I'm doing, so I don't know if this issue is relevant for non-shoe products!) Anyone have experience with angelus sealers to know if they also dissolve acrylic paints? Thanks. -
Hi and happy new year! I came across this leather shown in the picture. Any idea about what leather is it or the technique to achieve this two-tone look (tan + yellow)? Is it a tan leather painted with yellow (acrylic?) dye or some yellow leather dyed brown? Or some pull-up leather? Or a natural veg. tanned leather dyed with tan and yellow dyes at different areas? Any help with this mystery leather would be very appreciated!
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Hey guys, me and my husband got bit and have been hooked on leather crafting. It started as a hobby a few weeks ago but we both found a passion in it. A few of his buddies from work want some stuff for Christmas so we want to make it look more 'professional' and last better. We picked up a basic tool set and some stamps. But we are pretty clueless when it comes to how to finish our leather. We have a Tandy's about two hours away we are going to next weekend to pick stuff up, but I wanted to get some recommendations on products from Tandy's you guys like. I've seen a lot about the Clear-Lac/Neat-Lac, saddle lac, tote lac, ect. We know we want to do a lot of antique finish but according to Tandy's website you dye, use a pro resist, antique finish, then neat lac. But won't a resist keep the antique from absorbing? Also, what is the proper process? So far we follow this- cut, groove, bevel edges, sand, burnish, tool/carve, oil (let soak overnight), then sew together. Is there a better method and how to do we finish? I posted my first project I did, a sheath for my throwing knives. I did the art then colored it with regular acrylic paint from Hobby Lobby (which I'm sure you probably shouldn't use). We are looking at getting the Eco flo glue, fiebing dyes, fiebing all in one antique finish, fiebing pro resist, eco flo neat-lac, and neats foot oil. Is there anything else we should get? I'm sorry for all the questions. Just want to make sure we are on the right path
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Put my hand up at an auction last week, bought 4 tons of leather from a Leather Factory in Lynn Ma that made high fashion handbags, portfolios and other leather goods for the travel and fashion industry. Really an amazing collection of Weights, tanning methods colors and textures. Small scraps to whole hides, various species. I am not an expert in identifying leather so if you are in the area please bring your expertise and come check it out. Prices as low as $2 per pound and $2 to $7 per square foot depending on weight finish and condition. When I say some thing for everybody I am not exaggerating. Nubec, latigo, prints, raw, oil, colors chrome etc. You can see photos and message me here at FB market place. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/386611275340297 or call or txt at 6o3 fivefive3 l49five -
I have been experiencing some blotchy dye results. Using veg-tanned 4/5 and 6/7 for a leather visor and Pro Dye, I had a blotchy finish that was unacceptable. The 6/7 dyed evenly. Using a swab i applied the dye as usual. But when it was dry the leather was blotchy. Some areas had dark patches. Unsightly and unacceptable. Any thoughts?
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Materials used: Fiebing's Resolene Fiebing's dark brown leather dye Acetone in the form of nail polish remover Mink oil Basically the problem I have comes from every time I need to apply resolene to my project; they keep turning yellow. They started off as white, lambskin loafers. I used acetone to deglaze, and after used a wool dauber to apply the dye. I let it sit overnight for 10+ hours, buffed it with mink oil to remove any sitting dye, and then proceeded to apply resolene as lightly as possible with a clean wool dauber. At first, it went on like it always does when applying it to a project. It would turn a bit yellow, but it never affected the underlying dye. Then after maybe 5 or so seconds, the dye underneath started turning a sick yellow/green color. This process has been repeated with the same results maybe 5+ times. I understand that airbrushing would give a better result, but even putting a drop of resolene on top of the shoe seems to pull out the dye and turn it yellow. So even if I avoid any "rubbing" motion on the leather, the resolene still reacts poorly. At one point I applied two coats of dye, and let sit for 24 hours. Still bad results. Is this a leather problem or a product problem? I have since purchased Angelus sealant and will try that today, but I don't want to keep trying if the leather requires a different type of dye. Right now the dyes I am using are alcohol-based. Would labskin take oil based better? I will try to take some pictures later today when I get home. Edit: I added an example of a picture I had taken already of the resolene applied to a small part of the shoe -
This question started as a result of having some not-so-high-quality leather, that has some soft dirt marks, but now I’m curious about general prep practices before cleaning the leather. I was considering using denatured alcohol to wipe the leather with a sponge, before doing any cleaning. I understand this is effective, but also that it may dry the leather out. So, is it better to water down the leather first? Will that help to prevent the drying/hardening provided by the alcohol? I was then curious about the wetness of just water, since that tends to be used to help mold/form leather. Wouldn’t the water also cause hardening? Should the process be to: 1. sponge water and remove most dirt that can 2. use a light amount of denatured 3. add water 4. mold to final state 5. dye I’m considering something like making 3-piece gussets, where the molding may be important, yet hard to dye after molded (without dipping). I know it’s not ideal (or as affective) but can the leather be re-watered and molded after being dyed for those pieces? I also use denatured alcohol for cutting my Pro dyes, so there’s a lot of potential for drying out. I’m not sure what the best process should be to clean and dye. I would like to add a cleaning process, regardless if the vegtan leather seems to need it or not, just for consistency between final products.
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Okay, I have been wishing for a way to dilute my fiebings pro dye to extend the dye. It's kind of expensive if you are dying big pieces with full strength dye! And I don't really want it to be full strength anyways. So I've been lurking on this forum browsing threads about the topic of diluting dye. The only way I found was by using alcohol, but as many of us know, the more alcohol you apply to veg tan leather, the harder and drier it becomes. So that led me to experimentation mixing pro dye with water. Pro dye is not an oil based dye, per se, because the vehicle for the pigment is most definitely alcohol. However, the pigment itself IS oil based. Oil is soluble in alcohol, but not in water, as pretty much everyone knows. So if you mix a bit of Pro Dye with water, a lot of that pigment will separate out of the dye and sit on the surface. Then I remembered learning about emulsions and I looked up emulsifiers for oil and water. BORAX is the answer! If you mix pro dye into a solution of water and borax, a stable emulsion is born! That means that the oil will remain mixed with the water permanently--you don't have to shake it up after the oil pigment separates out. I'm just so excited about this, I wanted to find someone else who would care about it (and could use it) to share it with! So, I hope someone gets something out of his post. It's my first post.
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I have had several pieces of veg tan that have these spots that come to light after I apply the dye. I make sure the leather is fully dry before application and I just don’t know how to prevent this or predict when it will happen. Dies anybody know what this is or how to combat this problem? -
Hi! I am newish to braiding leather dog leads, and am looking for leather lace colors other than the typical bronze, pewter, silver and gold that come as stock colors. So question is...how do I go about getting metallic colors (purples, blues, reds, greens, etc) is there a method that is better holding up to wear and tear? The handle would be the biggest wear. Would I use dye? Paint? Do you have a certain brand that is recommended? I braid 4 strand, witha core, if it matters. Laces are 3mm kangaroo leather from packer leather.
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I have been dying with a wool dauber and paintbrushes for some time now and would really like to use an airbrush. I find that when I use brushes and daubers my dye job is uneven and I end up putting on too many coats trying to even it out which results in my work coming out too dark. I have been looking around the forums for tips on what type of airbrush to buy but I haven't really found much pertaining to a preferred brand and why it is better than another. What kind of tip size is recommended and how much dye should it be able to hold? Also I have never used and airbrush so I don't quite understand the difference between the way it feeds the dye and which is better. Gravity vs Siphon. If anyone has any recommendations it would be greatly appreciated!
