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Hey all, I have a dumb question. I am trying to get a better burnished edge, I think what I need is to glue some canvas to one of my wooden burnishers for a dremel and use that, rather than doing it by hand. Can any of you tell me what kind of glue to use? and should I overlap the canvas so there are no gaps or just glue it seem-to-seem? Right now all I have is the green weldwood contact cement, some wood glue, and some of that white water based elmers glue. Thanks! Zayne Thanks!
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The Edge. The business end of a knife or cutting tool. The perfect edge occurs at the intersection of two planes, which are the sides of the knife that intersect each other; the perfect edge formed by the two planes would a one dimensional line of zero radius. This is just not attainable, because the planes are made of something whose molecule has a radius, and where they intersect an edge is formed by at least a single molecule that has a radius. In practical terms, this ain't a going to happen. Maybe in a lab, maybe. But there is a downside, it is a fragile edge that won't hold up and will round over to the point that it is less sharp but more durable. That is the scientific claptrap. Our best edge is going to be rounded to the point that you and I can see it with a loupe. I have four loupes, a 5x, a 10x, a 20x, and a 30x, and some comparator scopes that go way beyond that. If I take a brand new Irwin Utility knife blade out of the box and look at the edge under 5x, I can see the edge. At 10x the edge is obvious, and a 30x it looks like a landing strip. Quality scalpels are somewhat better, but still a highway at 30x. Quality of the plane grinds (facets, bevels) and polish are an important in attaining a small radius, but included angle of the edge (plane 1 degrees from centerline + plane 2 degrees from centerline) is as important a factor. The size of the radius will increase with the size of the included angle. Unfortunately, the durability (how much strength or metal is behind the edge) decreases with the decrease in included angle. We are always fighting the metal to get the best balance between edge radius and durability. Utility knives, razors, scalpel,s and anything of that ilk sacrifice durability for sharpness. Sharpen often or put in a new disposable blade. So edge angles are going to be minimal, but these things will really cut; for a while. So what is the proper angle for a knife edge? I feel a range of 20° to 50° is about right, but covers a lot of territory. I guess some examples might be appropriate. Bench Knife or skiver -- 20° to 25°, maybe even 30° Shoe Utility Knife -- 25° to 30° Pocket Knife -- 25° to 30° Kitchen Knife -- 25° to 35° Head Knife -- 20° to 25° Wood Chisel -- 25° to 35° depending on use Planer Blade -- 40° Axe -- 40° to 50° Lawnmower Blade -- 90° or a bit less Art
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HELP! What is this edge called and how do I get it?
kozhanumbers posted a topic in How Do I Do That?
Hi! I have read a lot about edge burnishing but none of it looks like this. It almost looks like it has a wax type coating and i see this a lot on designer bags and overall bags at the stores. How is the edge done like this? It looks so even! Thank you so much! -
Hello Leatherworkers , I managed to burnish the edge quite good with dye+ glycerin then dye and wax then canvas wheel . My question is , how long does the burnished edge last ? because when i bend it tightly the edge cracked , so i figured out the the burnishing will not work on edge of a notebook cover or passport holder were it bends . What about the edge coat that turns out to look like plastic/rubber . how long does it last ? Thanks
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I have recently made my own wax for edge finishing 50/50 Beeswax and paraffin, I have also seen proprietary blended waxes for sale with special oils. Does anyone want to share info on different oils and wax people have used in there wax blends (besides bees and paraffin) the ratios and benefits . I have seen candelilla wax used There is probably a thread for this already...if so Link it
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I have 9 bottles of Tandy-Fenice leather edge paint for sale - ideally to a fellow leatherworker in Europe, as I am located in Brussels, Belgium. The 9 colors I have are: Navy Blue, Green, Yellow, Red, Neutral (clearcoat, basically), White, Black, Dark Brown, and Light Brown. I bought these just a couple of months ago in October and November from Rickert Werkzeuge where they sell for €29.95 each. In this photo album, you'll see the paints themselves, and I am also including the two projects I completed with these paints - a phone case with orange edges and a black stingray handbag. Other than a tablespoon of the yellow and red and about 20% of the black, the rest of the paints were not used any more than on a sample piece. I am selling them because I am moving back to the US (didn't know that when I bought them all!), and filling my suitcase with these 9 bottles of leather edge paint isn't really an option! I'm not expecting to get back what I paid for them (which is/was ~€300), so if you're interested, just make an offer and let me know your location to calculate the shipping costs! Thank you! - RF
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Hello guys! In this post i'd like to show you my attempt on edge finishing, using a local edge paint for this and quite love the result, It comes quite thick from the bottle so i added water to it since its water based, to thin the paint, i prefer thin so its easier for me to apply to the edges. Did quite some layering and sanding on this, and finished by polishing a cloth to the edges. Hope you guys like it. Thanks a lot for viewing! Faridz.
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Brand New Scharffix 2000 Leather Paring Device For Sale. Sensible Offers Considered Long story short, UPS delivered this late and I had to forfeit the commission for which it was purchased. Outside of this project, I do not have a use for this tool. Unfortunately, the company I bought it from want to charge me $80 to return the product, and so before doing so, I thought I would offer it for sale here. This tool has never been used, and comes in its original box, with instructions, spare blades, and adjustment wrench. Scharffix tools are made in Germany and as such are of very high quality. I was very impressed with how well made it is! For those of you who aren't familiar with this tool, Schmedt, the makers of the tool, have a video here. Skip to 1.26 to see this tool in action. I'm understandably looking to recoup as much as my original expenditure as possible and will consider sensible offers. Please let me know if you would like any further details or images. Nick
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Apologies all if this has been covered already, but I was wondering whether anyone has experience finishing soft edges? I have some 2mm tumbled calf, which I would like to burnish/finish properly. Clearly traditional methods are failing me (specifically the Japanese method of sealing with Funori, and the gum trag/burnishing method). Has anyone done this? I am looking for a firmer and shiny edge without any visible fibre structure. Maybe glazing? Thanks!
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Hi guys, first of all a happy new year to all of you! I whish you al the best in private as for your leatherwork! But as I visited my father for these days, I just recognized the edges of a belt I made for him like half a year ago, especially the edges. Back then they were really nice and smooth. I used some edge kote, burnished it, applied some bees wax and, if I remember right i used some saddle soap to polish it again. But now the edges look quite worn out, fuzzy and I really would like to prevent that in any way... But I don't know where to improve. I know that some of you use some paraffin on the edge as fins coat, but i doubt that this would fix the problem.... I ask because i am stitching another belt right now for a friend and I'd really like to do it better this time... Any ideas, guesses or tips? I'd really (!) appreciate them! Thank you Not the best picture I know, but it is the best my mobile phone creates at the time ... Hope it helps to understand/see the problem.
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Can anyone tell me what this tool is called? I've looked around different online leather tool shops and can't seem to find it. It would be easier if I knew what it was officially called. I like the edge it produces, I just don't know what to call it. Beveler, creaser and "magic edge tool" don't seem to show this tool in any google search. Thanks in advance. Dan
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I was just wondering what everyones favorite edge bevelers are, and also what you use for thinner leather (3/4 or 4/5 oz). I have used the tandy edge beveler #2 as thats the smallest size it comes in, keen edge beveler which I rarely use, and their new craftool pro classic edger size #00 and fine edger. I use the #2 edge beveler the most, as it seems to cut smother and is a lot easier to control than the new pro classic edgers. I got the new #00 for thinner leather, but I hate the design, it is a lot harder to keep it at a consistent angle, and seems to cut about as much off as the #2 edge beveler. I wish Tandy sold their edge beveler smaller than a #2, as that would probably work better with thinner leather. The #2 has a really hard time with 4/5 oz and smaller. I can use the #2 on 4/5 oz if i put another piece of leather underneath, but it cuts off too much of the edge, and by the time I go to burnish, the edge is too thin and ends up folding over, and looking like garbage. Ideally, I would want to cut off as little as possible, so the edge isn't extremely round, more flat. But when I have tried that, the edge still folds over slightly on front and back, and doesn't look good. Does anyone have a method for getting a more flat (slightly rounded) edge, without the leather folding over? I am open to using another brand beveler, I would just like to hear everyones favorites first! Thanks! Zayne
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Hi all, I am having issues getting a nice clean burnish on natural (un-dyed) veg tan. This is my process: I sand with 80 grit to make edges even and square if necessary. Sand edges with medium and then fine. Trim the edges with a tandy edge beveler. Wet the edges with small wool dauber as neatly as I can. Burnish with a wooden hand burnisher (picture below, I wonder if the burnisher I am using isn't the best). Then I add beeswax to the edge, and burnish again with the same wooden burnisher. My problem is, I am not getting a very clean edge. After I put water on the edge and do the first burnish, water leaks or is pushed onto the face of the leather, away from the edge, either by the burnishing, or just by the water itself. It makes the face look messy and the edge not like like a straight edge. This would be easy to hide if I were to dye the leather before my final burnish, but it looks really messy on natural leather, and honestly, I would like to just have a solid method that looks good regardless if I dye or not. I have read hidepounders tutorial on finishing edges, but I don't really want to use the paste or paraffin, I am trying to keep it to beeswax/water, or any other natural product. Thanks!
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Hi there! I'm having a little trouble figuring out how the layers of lambskin leather in the photos have natural-looking raw and asymmetrical, distressed-looking edges. I can only assume that the designer only used the edges of the hides for that natural, jagged look. On the other hand, if you were to "cut out your own" jagged edge, it would look silly and very obvious, so that is an automatic no. I couldn't find any techniques online on how to create these organic-looking distressed edges by hand... I thought about a dremel but I feel like it may not give the same successful effect as it would on something like denim. Then, I heard of burning/singing the lambskin edges. I like this idea and it sounds like it will work, but haven't tried yet. Although, the leather in the photos doesn't look singed, and I don't exactly want charred edges, either. You can also tell how both photos have long, stringy-looking tattered leather sections. I would THINK that is done by a dremel but again, don't know if feasible. ANY tips on how to achieve or experiement with this effect would be super appreciated! Seems so easy but it's not! :-P Thank you!! -
I have been using gum trag to finish the edges on all my other products, and it works alright. I was considering trying out fiebings saddle soap instead, to see how it works, but I recently heard that some animals might be allergic to glycerine, and I will be making some dog collars. So, does fiebings saddle soap have glycerine in it? Is it true that some animals might be allergic to it? If anyone has had any experiences with this, that would be very helpful. Also, as always, if there are any better/safer methods, feel free to advise! Thanks Zayne
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Hello, First time of posting here for ages, but when last I visited I was always impressed by how helpful this group was! I'm making a leather case for my small medieval harp, to be carried backpack style. I realise veg-tanned leather is unlikely to be waterproof, but aim to make it at least shower resistant. I'm planning on normal style seams rathet than butt-jointed edges, for more strength, but can't decide whether it's better to turn the seam inwards or outwards to be more weatherproof. Inwards makes more of a channel for water to seep in if my stitching isn't tight, outwards leaves the edge showing, which may be more water-absorbent. Any advice welcome, please. I'll also welcome comments on favourite proofings/dressings which aren't horribly greasy, as it'll be worn when I have modern clothes too, while retaining a natural sort of look suitable for the historical appearance. Thanks, Richard.
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Hi everyone. I have been using a modified Bob Park technique for edge treatment and it works very well, so thanks Bob for all the fine posts. But I have noticed commercial edging is no longer in that style, even the highest-priced luxury brands. All the recent examples I could find were a very even hard rubberized material that appeared to be bonded to the leather. Does anyone know what is involved in creating such an edge - perhaps a specialized machine?
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I completed my first belt last night. I also cut out two other belts and dyed them with fiebings oil dye (Black and Dark Brown). I have a few questions, as this is my first time doing any of this. When dying, a lot of people say not to dye the flesh side of the belt, as it may rub off over time. but what if you use gum trag on the back, over the top of the dye? Will that help with the dye not bleeding? Also, I bought edge kote (black and brown). What is the difference between the edge kote and the normal dye? If i used the edge kote, would i put it on at the same time that I dye the rest of the belt? Then afterwards, bevel and burnish? or would i bevel and burnish before dying? The belt if completed was natural, and not dyed. I noticed that when I beveled and burnished the edges, some of the water soaked onto the surface of the belt, and darkened it slightly. should I save burnishing for after i apply whatever finish/conditioner i apply? or does it matter? Sorry for all of the questions. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi All, I'm totally new to leather working. I recently bought a new Macbook and was looking around for a nice leather laptop sleeve. After a lot of browsing, I didn't find anything I liked so I thought I would try making my own. Initially I was thinking "Oh, it's just two pieces of leather sewn together, how hard can it be?" and "If I mess it up, I can turn it into an iPad case.... then an iPhone case" and I figure it'll be a good skill to have to make more nice personalized items in the future. Well I'm working out the details now before I do anything and I see there is a lot more skill to it than I initially thought and I probably should have done more research before just going out and buying the materials based purely on the look I wanted. In any case I like this new challenge and I have a few questions that I'm hoping you could help me answer. One of the nicest sleeves I could find is made by Picasolab (picasolab.com). I'd like to emulate some their design but I'm not sure how to achieve some of it. I like how they incorporated a semi rigid frame. It gives the laptop some protection and makes it easier to slide the laptop in and out of the case. I've seen other flimsier/poorer designs that make it a pain to get the laptop in and out of. They have a few videos showing some of their process and features here: http://picasolab.com...king-your-case/ 1. What are some ways of emulating the rigidity? I've read a bunch of threads about hot wax, wet leather forming, interfacing, kydex, fiberglass strapping but it all seems like overkill and I would like to think that there is a more elegant approach. 2. The leather I have isn't as thick (about 1/2 or 1/3) as what they're using and I'm considering adding a middle layer in between my outer and inner material. Although it's probably asking for a different kind of trouble stitching through that, I'm thinking it will be required to be able to give the sleeve some rigidity. The outer material I have is a brown oily pull up and the inner material is a lambskin. What would you suggest for adding a bit more structure to the final product using what I have? 3. I think this is a bit more of a oops and just a fyi for the future but I left the material lying on the floor on top of each other overnight and it looks like the oil from the dark outer material may have transferred to the lambskin leaving some slightly darkened streaks on it both sides (outer and flesh). If I glue/stitch the pieces together, is it going to absorb more oil over time? Is there something I should do about this? It looks like I'll get to learn a lot about the various skills without getting too complicated in terms of shapes so I'm looking forward to getting going with this. Any help is much appreciated.
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I'm almost at the end of the planning stages for kind of backpack/messenger bag with shoulder straps. The straps will be layered around a CC foam strip. Though I haven't decided on the final layer variations, I'll probably end up with 2-4 layers and a final thickness of around 1/8" - 1/4" thickness along the edge. Among the finishing methods, which do you suggest? I've debated on thong lacing, basic saddle soap burnishing, burning and probably some other bad ideas but can't really decide what direction to take. Sturdiness is my primary concern with comfort a close second and appearance in third. If it makes a difference, I'm planning on doing all of the stitching on the rest of the bag with (probably) saddle-stitched artificial sinew. If you have a different suggestion on the type of stitch though, I'm all ears. You can see the bag I'm using as a base design at http://leatherworker...891#entry317335
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hi all, I'm new to leathercrafts, picked up my first set of stuff from my local Tandy here in Atl and I'm determined to make a perfect long wallet. I've made two prototypes, both made with veg tanned leather ~3oz. The first one i finished the edge with just Gum and 2nd one i stained it with tan color. Now the problem is, they all had glue lines. I used ecoweld from Tandy and did sand the glued edge before burnish (as suggested by Rusty in springfield's youtube video). As soon as i started to burnish the edge, the glue line will appear again and I can feel the glue if i run my finger on the edge. Is it the glue i'm using that caused this problem? Or should I just leave the edge out when I'm applying the glue? I realized the edge is probably the most important part to show the level of craftsmanship so i really want to get it down. Please help! thanks Daz
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I'm a novice. Making basic belts with materials I have on hand. This is my approach and would like your thoughts on it. 'absurd' and 'wrong' are two words I'm looking forward to... I've secured an ABS pipe cap to my drill press, notched the side with a circular file, and smoothed it with sandpaper. Then I apply black shoe polish to the edge of my already-died leather belt and run it through the 1100 RPM groove. This does an OK job of burnishing, the edge comes out smoother and harder. But if I scrape the edge with my fingernail the fibers pop back out, it's not as hard as I'd like it to be. Something I can tweak here to get harder edges? Thanks. Brian
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I'd like to have this type of edge for a few projects, and possibly even rougher. I'm using scrap leather from a Mennonite leather shop in lots of different weights, colors, etc. Can someone point me to a good tutorial? Thanks for any help! Tina Campbell
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Hello everyone, I'm making my first soft leather purse. My issue is with the exposed edge at the opening of the purse. I obviousley don't want to leave it plain. That would be... plain . I've thought of framing the edges out with a thicker piece of leather as a border or maybe even doing a little bit of decorative stitching. Anyways, thats what I've come up with, I am hoping someone here could shed some light on a few more options. Thank you.
