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Found 11 results

  1. Hey all…happy new year. Im still downsizing and here is the rest of my leatherworking hardware. I have counted most of the items along with added part numbers for those of you wanting to know what left. Many of the hardware is from Weaver, some from Mast and some from my local supplier. I separated most of the hardware into labeled baggies and some of the hardware have been just tossed into the same baggy. Most of the hardware is English bridle hardware and/or halter hardware since it what is repaired or made the most of. But I think you will find a mix of other hardware too. Browse the list and see if the 2 boxes are of any interest to you or worth it to you. Note, the parts are in 2 Large USPS Priority Mail – FLAT RATE – boxes. So the total shipping for both will be $46.00 Im putting a price of 30 USD for all of the hardware + the 46 for shipping so a TOTAL of 76.00 USD. I would prefer a USPS Money Order, but will consider other forms of payment. Only serious inquiries, please and im not interesting in busting up the bunch for someone wanting onesies and twosies…sorry. i have attached some photos of the hardware too. The photos are not of everything but most of whats in the 2 boxes. I have also attached a excel listing too. Thanks for looking… FIRST - I WILL TAKE IT, GETS IT. PLEASE REPLY TO POST AND STATE SO. THAT WAY OTHERS WILL KNOW ITS TAKEN. ALSO, IF PAYMENT DOESNT SHOW, THEN IT WILL GO TO THE NEXT PERSON. ALSO, this is only for USA, Alaska and Hawaii. Sorry for anyone outside... Also, keep looking...i will be selling off my tools and equipment soon... if any of you are thinking im scamming anyone, if Shadybrook is still around ask him. He got everything but what i have here for free. But he had to pay the shipping & customs from the USA. LEATHER STUFF FEB2023 PDF.pdf
  2. Hi guys, I have been a member of the group for a while and have admired everyone's work here, I am reluctant to show my own offerings but decided to take the plunge. I have been working for a couple of weeks on this English Style Briefcase, I live in the Philippines so sometimes products are difficult to get shipped here and things take longer waiting for accessories etc. The case is made of Veg tan leather with all the fittings being solid brass with a brass lock from Amiet, it has a key holder, address tag and strap with shoulder pad. The bag is 3 compartment with the first compartment having a passport/cellphone pocket and pen loops, 2nd compartment is a zipped laptop pocket and the third compartment is plain for pads, books etc. The gussets are in 3 pieces to give good fit and bend on the corners. Although I live in the Philippines and have done for 25 years, I am originally from England hence my natural preference for English style leather work. Stay safe everyone
  3. I'm very new to leatherwork, and this is my third project: a hand sewn english halter in undyed veg tan with solid brass fittings, mint napa padding and mint thread. It has a double rolled jowl so you can unsnap for grooming the jaw. Certainly learned a lot: first time sewing padding, first time rolling leather. Not perfect but I'm happy with the design and style, as impractical as the colors are
  4. Dixon pricking irons made in England. I don’t know how old they are I purchased from a shop going out of business (owner is 96) they are not made any more they are stamped England and the spi number sets of 4 5 6 and 7 spi they are hand made I just found I prefer Japanese style irons. Shoot me an email hidegear1 (at) gmail.com would like to sell all at once but might be willing to sell in spi sets
  5. I've been asked if I can help someone with three sets of boots and I'm looking for some guidance. This is my first time working on boots. Pairs 1 & 2: The owner recently recovered from a broken leg. The damage to her leg and the reduced activity has caused her leg, particularly around the calf, to become larger. She had one of the pairs custom made for her before the accident and she'd really like to keep them. For these two pairs I'm looking to learn the following: Are either of these candidates for stretching? (I'm am worried about the pair with patent leather at the top developing cracks if I attempt to stretch them -- she didn't even get a chance to use this pair before her accident) If stretching is viable, what is the best way to go about that? (I assume it would be best to refer to a shoe repair shop in this case?) Both pairs have a V-shaped relief cut along the inside of the calf (1.5" to 2" down and about 0.5" to 0.75" wide at the top) bridged with elastic. I was considering making this V longer and slightly wider. Is this a good idea? If making the V larger is the appropriate route, what type of elastic is this and where can I get some? Pair 3: The owner of this pair has a tendency to let her leg rub... a LOT. The interior lining still looks to be in good condition. I'm planning to cut away the frayed edges of the exterior leather, making a patch on the hole, and adding a reinforcement panel to both boots to make them symmetrical (only one of the boots has a hole right now). What I'm looking to learn here: What should I be wary of while making this repair? What leather is best for the job? (I am currently thinking of using lightweight black oil tanned)
  6. Can you paint English bridle leather and it last? And if so what kind of paint to use. I already use water based acrylics. Thanks!
  7. Lately I've been trying to work on my stitching. Considering I just received a new English Paring knife, I figured I would make a small little sheath for it. I should have designed it differently but it was a good chance to practice my stitching. Thank you to Nigel Armitage (@Dangerous Beans) for his videos on saddle stitching! Slowly but surely, I'm getting better!
  8. Is 2oz English Bridle Leather too thin for a wallet? I'm looking to make an ultrathin wallet, but I also want to keep the leather firm and durable. I've spoken with reps at Wickett & Craig and Hermann Oak about splitting leather down to 2oz. Each has said that they don't advise the leather to be split that thin. Why do you guys think? If I made a wallet out of 2oz EBL, would it fall apart? Does anyone have experience working with EBL that thin? Thanks!
  9. I recovered this old saddle from my great-aunt's shed. She told me that her father (my great-grandfather) used to ride this saddle whenever he went out for a date! I figured it must have been very nice in its day, so I wanted to fix it (any tips on fixing bent/cracked leather, please share! I'm currently using Leather New and probably some saddle oil, but advice about other chemicals/techniques that would be better would be most welcome). It was kept on a shelf in a shed that was poorly-protected against the Mississippi elements (well, it survived a tornado that took down a bunch of massive pines, so it must be sturdier than it looks), and there were plenty of spiders living in the resulting folds of the leather. The leather has a lot of those webbing cracks in it, especially where it's been unnaturally folded from sitting on a flat surface. It's not so dry that it cracks at the touch, and for having sat on that shelf for God-knows-how-long, I'm surprised it's in such relatively excellent shape. There is a defined cut in the cantle, and the seat looks to have been scraped away a bit in one area. The stirrup buckles are very rusty, and the strap that connects the girth to the saddle (it's not like any saddle I've seen; it's kind of Y shaped, with the girth attachment at the cross-section of the Y and making the tail) has broken off in transport, although I still have what remains of it. I'm not sure if it will ever be like new again, but I'd like to get it as close as I can. Furthermore, I have no idea what type of saddle it is. I can't find a maker's mark anywhere, but I haven't looked too thoroughly for fear of cracking the dry leather any further. Online, I've found some types of saddles that are similar, but I'm not certain they're a perfect match. I'm not sure about the year, but I figured it must have been made around late 1800s or early 1900s (and if my great-grandfather got it from HIS father, even older? His father, my great-great-grandfather, owned a slave plantation, to give a bit of perspective, although I've no idea if that's where the saddle came from). If anyone knows what kind of saddle this is, or where I can go to find out, please let me know. (P.S. I've never posted to a forum before, so I honestly don't know how to attach the picture files. The file uploader keeps telling me the picture is too big, and I had 6 pictures total to get every angle; I can add the pictures later when I figure out how. Until then, I apologize. Please share information on leather restoration, at the very least!!)
  10. Hi, I was wondering if somebody could recommend a supplier for english bridle leather in Canada, specifically ontario or at least nearby. I've been able to find a few places out west to order from but the cost of shipping doesn't really make it cost effective. I've also looked at American suppliers nearby but with the American dollar so high it ends up being more expensive than shipping a side from out west. I would be a really big help if somebody could recommend a supplier. Thanks!
  11. Selling (as a set only), 10 punches. List prices shown below. Will take $225 for all, shipped, PayPal accepted. Will verify 1-1/2" round tonight but believe that is the proper size shown. Weaver Master Oblong 1/2" $42.90 Weaver Master Oblong 5/8" $42.90 Weaver Master Oblong 3/4" $46.35 Weaver Master Oblong 1" $55.55 Weaver Master English Point 5/8" $35.65 Weaver Master English Point 3/4" $35.65 Weaver Master English Point 1" $40.25 Weaver Master English Point 1-3/4" $46.95 Weaver Master Round End 1/2" $35.65 Weaver Master Round End 1-1/2" $46.95 total $428.80 Remember that these are list prices. I am selling for an average of $20 each + shipping cost in continental US. Thanks for looking - Mike
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