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Found 87 results

  1. Hello all, I've run into a bit of confusion lately. The more I try to research the more confused I get. I recently made a belt and dyed it with ecoflo, buffed, applied neatsfoot, buffed againm and again. Then applied satin sheen as a finish. While it looks okay I plan to experiment in the future with maybe mop & Glo. However how would I condition(think long term periodical maintenance/upkeep) this if it's already sealed with something like that satin sheen or mop & Glo? Would the conditioner be able to penetrate the Finish? Or could I use somthing like Montana pitch, or aussie instead of using satin Sheen or mop & Glo? Thanks!
  2. Hi, I have been practicing with the swivel knife and stamps for a few weeks now. My first projects were going to be checkbook covers but decided they would be a little too advanced for me at this time and the stick barrettes are needed more anyways. The barrettes will be about 2-1/2" to 3", by about 5-1/5" long. They will be dyed black. I will use a dowel rod for the sicks, I will dye those black too. I bought 4oz of Feibings black pro oil dye and from what I understand, this doesn't bleed as bad as the others. Do you think 4oz will be enough to do both? I bought a piece of 6-7oz 8.5"X11" veg tan from Springfield Leather. This should be enough to make both barrettes, but not leaving much scrap for testing I bought a set of hole punches for the stick holes. I was going to burnish the edges and the flesh side. I ordered tools for that. I was thinking that burnishing the flesh side might help make it a little more moisture resistant. I'm concerned about making the barrettes moisture resistant because our hair might be damp when we put it up. Any suggestions on what we can put on the flesh side to protect it from the moisture in our hair? I'm ok with having to reapply something every so often. on the grain side, I will tool them and plan to use Mop n' Glo mixed 50/50 with water to seal them. I read about it on here. I already had it on hand and don't have much money to work with. Does it crackle really bad? The barrettes will be pretty flexible, so I'm concerned about that. I was thinking I should apply the Mop n' Glo, then put the dowel rod through the holes and let it dry in that position. Does that make sence? the barrettes are going to be oval shaped. To cut it out, I plan to use the 28 year old swivel knife I inherited (I have a brand new one for the good stuff) It has been sharpened and I have stropped the h**l out of it. It will cut through tough, roughly 8-10oz cased veg tan in a few passes with a little elbow grease. I know there are other knives I should be using, but I'm very clumsy and feel less likely to cut myself or ruin my project this way. I know I can't do it this way for long, but I will learn the right way in time. Is there anything y'all think I should know? Constructive criticism, suggestions, ideas and insight are very welcome. I'm very sorry I have so many questions. I have no idea what I'm doing, I have no one to learn from. The person a inherited the swivel knife and stamps from got them as a gift and knew nothing about leather work. I know absolutely no one that has worked with veg tan leather. I don't even have access to leather working books through our library because of personal reasons. All I really have is the Internet, just this website really. I have learned a lot here the last two weeks already. Please don't suggest any wool products, I'm allergic. Except the wool daubers should ok since they won't come in contact with my skin. Any responses are greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read this novel lol.
  3. I would like to skive/split and finish some entire sides of Hermann Oak leather. I'd like to get them down to 3 oz (from 8-10oz) with a good, clean looking back. Does anyone know of a place that would offer this service? (I'm aware Wicket & Craig does this in-house for their leathers, but I haven't heard the same for Hermann Oak) Thanks!
  4. Greetings all, I am working on a leather coronet (crown) that I am putting gold leaf on. I need a way to finish the leather that is very resistant to scuffs and scratches so the gold leaf doesn't get scratched off. Almost like a lacquer or something like that. Floor polish? Wood polyurethane? I am not sure. Thin layers of some kind of glue maybe? I don't even know what to search for to try to find the answer on this forum so I apologize if this has been discussed before. Any experience or ideas are welcome. Thanks!
  5. Hi, I'm a little perplexed about which finishing products to use for various projects. For example, I see people carve and dye leather, then put an acrylic finish on it. Other times they dye and then put a leather conditioner or something like Snow Seal conditioner on it. Some talk about acrylic resolene. If someone uses acrylic, then 6 months from now wants to put some conditioner on the leather, you cant do that because the acrylic blocks the conditioner from working into the leather...so how would you ever condition old projects that have acrylic on them? What would you finish the following project with? And how would you go about conditioning the leather months from now? Book cover, knife sheath, motorcycle seat, purse, belt, key chain fob, guitar strap? Thanks
  6. Okay y'all, so I'm a newbie to this forum and I'm still trying to navigate through the pages, so if this is something that has been resolved or answered, just kindly if y'all will link me to the response! So my delema is that I've been using acrylic resoline as a finish on all my leather goods that I make, which overall leaves a good presentation, as far as sheen and sealing/protecting goes. But what the problem ends up being is that once you bend the leather around say for a belt or like a watch strap, the Resoline seems to wrinkle and actually crack over time and use. Have any of you had this problem before? Is this just how it works out, and if it is, is there something somewhat like acrylic res that I can use? I'll drop some pics for y'all so y'all can see what I mean.
  7. So I've been typing in the search bar to try and find information that I'm looking for but haven't had much luck. I am working on a mask that I want to add steer horns on and I wanted to know how best to polish/finish them. What I ended up doing was actually rubbing the outside with beeswax, turning it over my zippo, and then buffing it with an old t-shirt. They came out decent, though not shiny. Is this a valid way to finish them? Is there a better way? I am looking to do some other artistic somethingorother with the left over horn and would like to find a way to bring out the natural beauty of the horns. Any advice? What have you done? Anyone have any pictures? Thanks!
  8. I have recently gotten an order for a Natural Leather belt. The customer wishes to have a natural belt so that it can patina with wear. This is my first time for an order of a Natural Leather belt, and I am wondering if I should apply any finish to the flesh and grain sides of the belt? I know I should not use an acrylic because that would prevent the oils and waters that create the patina from reaching the leather. But should I apply a layer of Mink oil or neats foot oil to the grain side of the leather? Should I apply a finish like Tan Kote to the flesh side to keep the fibers down? Thank you very much for your time.
  9. Hi guys, I've been having some issues with my Fiebing's Edge Kote and Eco-Flo dye leaking if the leather gets damp. What products or techniques do you use to prevent that? Normally the amount of leaking from the Edge Kote isn't terrible, but I worry about it for bag straps. Again, it's only an issue if it gets wet, but still, I'd love to find a solution! I have tried Tan-Kote, Bag-Kote, and the Eco-Flo Satin Shene without much success. I've been doing several coats and letting it have plenty of time to set. The leaking is significantly worse if I treat the leather with saddle soap before or after, which is a pity because I love its effect. I really want a fail safe way to finish edges at the least, and if possible dye my own leather without having to worry about ruining people's clothing! Thanks!
  10. I bought an airbrush and wanted to try using it to spray on my finishes. The airbrush finishes great on dyed pieces, but when i try to use it on antiqued finishes, it causes the antique to pool together and make the project look permanently smudged and "dirty". I can't quite figure out what I'm doing to cause this as I have searched this forum and found that airbrushing an antiqued finish turns out quite nicely. Here are my steps: I tool my leather Let Dry Apply a coat of Tan Kote Let Dry Apply Sheridan Brown Antique paste made by Fiebing's. Let dry/set for a while. Buff Then apply another coat of Sheridan Brown Antique Paste made by Fiebing's Let dry/Set for a while (in the case of the picture, days) Buff Try the Spray finish with Eco Flo Professional Finish Clear Gloss It still turns out looking like this. it does the same for application with a brush. it causes it to look dirty and streak. Would love some pointers. Thank you.
  11. Hello, I was wondering if it is possible to dip leather into RTC Resist and Finish? If so, is there a good technique to get it to come out right? Or is it better to just brush on with a wool dauber? Thanks!
  12. Hi, I'm very new to leather working (just picked it up as a hobby), and I'm new to this forum. I'm currently working on a wallet, using vegetable tanned leather. I cut the pieces and dyed the leather black with an oil based dye from tandy leathers. After letting it sit over night, I then applied a satin shene finish to the pieces (also from tandy leather). The lady working at tandy leather told me to apply it and then take a cloth and rub the pieces after it drys. I did this, and noticed that the leather was quite sticky feeling. I read the instructions on the bottle and it said to clean up with soap water. So I did this and it was still sticky. I then did some research online and couldn't find much. It appears that I'm not suppose to rub the shene off but rather leave it on. I've applied several light coats, but it's still sticky. Is there anyway to fix this? Am I applying it incorrectly? Thank you!! Blessings, Tyler I should add that I have now been letting the shene sit on the leather overnight, and it is still quite sticky.
  13. First time using Wyosheen as a finish and was curious what ratio of finish to thinner others have had success with. I do understand a lot of this is personal preference but just looking for a good starting point to experiment with. Thanks!
  14. Hey all, I'm Matt. I read here more than post, but I've got some stuff to sell that I'm not using. New bottles of Fiebing's DuraEdge and Zack's Manuel Edge Ink. 8oz & 4oz, respectively. Only used a small test patch and didn't like it for what I needed. Also including a 3/4 full 4oz bottle of Fiebing's Tan Kote that I'm not using anymore. It's a little old, but it still works fine. Sold only as a set for $20, including shipping anywhere in the continental US only. Thanks for looking!
  15. Hi fellow leather-workers, I’m new to leather working and trying to figure out the best ‘order’ to do things in. Bellow is a list of steps I typically take during leather working – I would love some feedback on what you think is the correct order to do things in? 1. Cut pieces 2. Bevel Edges 3. Sand Edges & back side of leather 4. Neatsfoot Oil to soften leather 5. Gum Tragacanth to slick edges & back side of leather 6. Groover & Stitching Spacer (dampen leather for this) 7. Dye leather 8. Apply finishing coat 9. Sew leather pieces together Would you change this order at all? If so, what would you do differently?
  16. First off, I apologize for any mistakes made in this post, I am a very young and inexperienced leather worker. I am making a simple wallet that has 4 pieces of leather total, doesn't fold, and only has 3 slots total. I have made more complicated for others, but for me, I like simple. I dyed the leather with antique, using no resist as I wanted the antique affect and the saddle tan colour. Do I need to put on another finish over the antique like super sheen to seal it in, or can I leave it as is? Most likely the wallet will get plenty of sweat on it, and go in and out of my jeans pocket regularly. If another overcoat to "seal" it is needed, is there anything that I can use that won't give it the super glossy, shiny finish that super sheen does? Here is a picture:
  17. I've been browsing the forum (and am fairly new to the forum) for techniques that people like to use in finishing the inside (raw leather) of their sheaths. I have tried the paraffin/beeswax concoction in dipping a sheath to seal it all over(haven't tried applying only to the inner w/ a dauber) - but didn't like the shiny finish I've tried trag gum - but have ended up with some hairy spots that refuse to go away & Lately I've been using Ballistol, as recommended by Rowe's Leather, whom has made some nice sheaths for myself and my father in the past - but it turns my saddle tan to a dark brown from inside out! I want to get a smooth finish on these sheaths, and can't decide whether I will go un-dyed or raw, pending my next attempt at finishing the inside. What do you guys use? And I apologize if this thread already exists - If so, please link me! Look forward to hearing what you guys have to say!
  18. Does anybody know how to get the crack leather finish on this picture? I've searched for a while but I can't find the process anywhere. R
  19. Hello, I'm a complete beginner in leatherworking, but I was recently inspired to give it a shot. I'm attempting to make a simple wallet, which I intend to dye navy blue with a white-gold coloured design on the front. Unfortunately, I live in a small city in Canada and leather supplies are quite expensive here. So, I wanted to make sure I knew what I was doing before buying the supplies. Hopefully you folks can help me with that. My first problem is deciding which finish to use. It's a wallet and going to be handled frequently, so I need something that really seals the dye. I would probably be using Tandy's Eco-Flo dye, because it's reasonably priced and available in the colours I need. I also live in a climate that snows a lot, so I'd prefer to use something water resistant. I've looked at acrylic resolene, which looks good for both water resistance and dye sealing, but I want to avoid anything that looks shiny or plasticy. So, what type of finish should I be looking for here? My next question is about combining dyes. Let's say I'm dyeing it navy blue, and I've got black and blue dyes to work with. Should I combine the dyes first, or simply apply a few black layers to the leather, and then a few blue layers, etc, until I get the desired colour? Could I do both? Combine the dyes first to make a navy blue, then proceed to apply additional coats of blacks or blues until the I get the desired colour? Lastly, I'm not sure what I should do about the coloured design on the front. Let's say I dye the leather navy blue and let it dry. I now want to add the white-gold design on top of it. How should I do this? I thought about using stencil paper, but if I apply the dye with some kind of brush or cloth, I wouldn't be able to keep the stencil in place. Also, I'm not sure if the colour would turn out, considering I would be placing a light dye over a dark one. Perhaps it would be fine? I've never dyed leather before, so I wouldn't know. I've attached an image I've photoshopped demonstrating how I'd like the finished product to look. Again, I'm a leatherworking novice and I'm not sure if this sort of thing would even be possible. I'd appriciate any thoughts you have. Thanks!
  20. I bought a "finished double shoulder 5oz" [Tandy #9048-60] to make my wife a tote bag, and am trying not to mess up. I have two questions: 1) Should I glue the seams? I have Barge that I've used for wallets, but I'm afraid I won't be able to line it all up correctly. If I'm going to hand stitch it, will the glue make it considerably stronger? Thoughts? 2) If the product says finished, should I add some finish to protect it further? I just made some homemade dubbin with olive oil, almond oil, vitamin e oil and beeswax. If I do add the dubbin, how long do I have to wait? How much should I apply? Thank you so much for the assistance. I just started working with leather less than a week ago, and there are SO many choices/questions.
  21. Hey folks, I'm new to all this-- a small project that suffered from "scope creep" has now resulted in a new hobby. Anyway, I bought a set of Keda aniline dyes, and have not been at all happy with the results: with either water or isopropyl the color has lacked any vibrancy unless completely submerged long enough to soak the piece, which then severely degraded any stamping. But, while I wait for some fiebings to arrive, I have tested a bit more, and last night remembered that I had a bottle of Liquitex medium & varnish (details on the product: http://www.liquitex.com/glossmediumvarnish) In the paint world, this is pretty versatile stuff, suitable for use as a sort of thinner or "extender", a binder, a varnish, and yes, as medium for powder-based pigments as well. So, I took a bit of keda I'd already made up and added an equal amount of the liquitex, with some very interesting results. The keda portion was about 1 part hot water to 3 parts 90% isopropyl. The pigment was roughly 1 part blue to 15 parts red, and a very small amount of yellow. Here are the results on two short 1.75" strips of veg tan that was not prepped in any way prior to application, and left to dry overnight: The mixture was highly viscous, but with the high isopropyl content it also dried quickly-- touch-dry inside of a few minutes, so it might be difficult to cover larger areas evenly without an equally large applicator. I don't know how this will fare in terms of longevity, but a scratch test showed color penetration beyond sitting on the surface. As such, if the gloss dulls or wears off in time, the color should still be there, and allow for refreshing with a light coat of liquitex varnish by itself, or simple waxing. Another consideration is that liquitex makes a very wide variety of medium of this sort with different finishes and consistencies, and is readily available, and inexpensive. (often or 50% off retail from AC Moore with their single-item coupons). For now I'll probably stick mostly to fiebings, but this versatile option will be nice to keep in my back pocket, and once the fiebings arrives I'll also be very interested to see how the liquitex might be used with that as well.
  22. I left a message on the forum in the dyes, finishes thread but didn't get an answer yet.... Sorry for the re-post but this is for a wallet/money clip that I need to be done with because it is sold... I have been using Resolene and decided to try Tan-Kote... I tested this on piece of scrap but I guess my scrap was too small to see streaks in the Tan-Kote. I have managed to go back over the piece with just a damp wool swab, so now I have kind of a satin sheen to it but I want it to be shiny or at least more shiny. How do you apply Tan-Kote without it being streaky? Can I dilute it with water like Resolene? HELP! Please! Terry
  23. Hello, i'm new here! I'm very interested in getting a finish as seen in the picture in the link on a leather jacket i'm having made for me in aniline calf leather. But how do i achieve such a gloss? I'm hoping it can be done with a wax (bees, carnauba?) , but will it crack as the jacket is worn? Especially at the elbow creases i can imagine? I bought some fiebings carnauba creme and leather sheen a couple days ago, but i can't seem to get the shine i want. http://pnp-firenze.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/IMG_16219.jpg Thank you
  24. Hello, i'm new here! I'm very interested in getting a finish as seen in the picture in the link on a leather jacket i'm having made for me in aniline calf leather. But how do i achieve such a gloss? I'm hoping it can be done with a wax (bees, carnauba?) , but will it crack as the jacket is worn? Especially at the elbow creases i can imagine? I bought some fiebings carnauba creme and leather sheen a couple days ago, but i can't seem to get the shine i want. http://pnp-firenze.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/IMG_16219.jpg Thank you
  25. I bought a side of oil tanned motorcycle bag leather from Springfield, and was wondering what the best way to finish it is. The first piece I will be making is a fork bag for a friend.
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