Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'finishing'.
Found 57 results
-
I would like to skive/split and finish some entire sides of Hermann Oak leather. I'd like to get them down to 3 oz (from 8-10oz) with a good, clean looking back. Does anyone know of a place that would offer this service? (I'm aware Wicket & Craig does this in-house for their leathers, but I haven't heard the same for Hermann Oak) Thanks!
-
Okay y'all, so I'm a newbie to this forum and I'm still trying to navigate through the pages, so if this is something that has been resolved or answered, just kindly if y'all will link me to the response! So my delema is that I've been using acrylic resoline as a finish on all my leather goods that I make, which overall leaves a good presentation, as far as sheen and sealing/protecting goes. But what the problem ends up being is that once you bend the leather around say for a belt or like a watch strap, the Resoline seems to wrinkle and actually crack over time and use. Have any of you had this problem before? Is this just how it works out, and if it is, is there something somewhat like acrylic res that I can use? I'll drop some pics for y'all so y'all can see what I mean.
-
Hey, new to leather craft. Just finished reupholstering a steering wheel for my car for the first time ever. Very hard to do, to get it perfectly measured and the pattern cut out properly, and to do it without a sewing machine. Anyways, after wasting nearly a whole half hide of perforated leather, i finally got a product I was happy with. This is my last issue, the leather, in the corner bunches up and creates these wrinkles, that I'd like to remove if possible, the leather isnt very thick, id say 2mm or so, but here are the pictures anyways. Just wondering if there is a way to massage the leather somehow so its not as wrinkly/bunched up, i tried poling a needle in the perforations to offset the bunching up, but it didnt do much. imgur gallery link for photos: http://imgur.com/a/8pL5V -
Hi Guys, I'm very new to this, but I found some great stuff here about the ability to topcoat with Resolene after conditioning w/ Lexol, so it seemed like the perfect place to ask. I have an AGVSport Tracer jacket where the manufacturer chooses to leave webs crossing the zip-openings on the wrists unlined on the inside for some reason. (also seen this on 1 or 2 others, btw) I've already topcoated the finish-face with Resolene, but to save the long-sleeve white shirts from constantly turning bluish-black, would it be OK to coat that rougher inside-face with Resolene also? -Or would that lead to something like a "Dry-Rot" situation that people describe when you accidentally coat a jacket in something that doesn't let the leather breathe? Thanks very much for any help and expertise!!! -My shirts thank you too! -
Hello guys! In this post i'd like to show you my attempt on edge finishing, using a local edge paint for this and quite love the result, It comes quite thick from the bottle so i added water to it since its water based, to thin the paint, i prefer thin so its easier for me to apply to the edges. Did quite some layering and sanding on this, and finished by polishing a cloth to the edges. Hope you guys like it. Thanks a lot for viewing! Faridz.
-
Hi guys! I admire the bags, which have this kind of round lace in the stitching between the leather sides, but Im wondering how I pratically do the work. I guess it functions as protection/decoration, but I can't exactly figure out how its done and what the name for this is called I have attached a pic of an example I hope anyone have some knowlegde on this area - no matter what then thanks!! Have a nice weekend:) Frederik -
My name Chris and I am a compulsive hobbyist. I play guitar, mandolin, ukulele, harmonica, and bang a banjo when feeling brave. I also make beer and other alcoholic beverages on a regular basis. I shave with an old fashioned safety razor (double edge) and a straight razor and lather with a badger hair brush. To add my list of manly hobbies, I decided to start leather working to appeal to my need to create. The itch happens when I look at something and say "I can do that!" I have bought a few tools to get started and have run into many learning curve problems that I can't seem to find the answers to after trolling the forums and YouTube videos. I have noticed after dyeing my cheap little thin pieces of vegtan from the local big hobby store that the material is now stiff as a board and curling on the edges...that doesn't help make a nice wallet. What are the proper steps to dyeing a piece of leather that doesn't make it feel like a piece of jerky when it is all said and done? I have been rubbing olive oil on these pieces like crazy to no effect.....but I have soft hands now. Also, I am not sure but it seems to me that I have been losing some size after dyeing (I read about the removal of moisture after dyeing) and can understand that. Should I be accounting for a certain amount of shrinkage? Like a 1/4 of an inch or something? I would like to make some patterns to repeat my work and I am not sure if this something that people take into account for dyeing (and stitching). Having fun but getting frustrated with what I don't know....if there is something that I should be reading to answer these questions, please let me know. I have been digging but not finding the right information. Thanks for any help!
-
Apologies all if this has been covered already, but I was wondering whether anyone has experience finishing soft edges? I have some 2mm tumbled calf, which I would like to burnish/finish properly. Clearly traditional methods are failing me (specifically the Japanese method of sealing with Funori, and the gum trag/burnishing method). Has anyone done this? I am looking for a firmer and shiny edge without any visible fibre structure. Maybe glazing? Thanks!
-
So I have traced and carved a dragon on a wallet similar to the one below. No I did not do this fine piece of work - wish I could. I'm to the staining part and was looking for any tips on staining with mulitple colors like this. Where can I go to find some instructions? I really love when leather fades from a dark to a lighter color. Just not sure how to do it. Never been taught and never seen it done. Do you think this is all airbrushed on? Any help would be great. Thanks. -
How'd do you attain this almost natural color? Steps and required liquids please... -
I was just wondering what everyones favorite edge bevelers are, and also what you use for thinner leather (3/4 or 4/5 oz). I have used the tandy edge beveler #2 as thats the smallest size it comes in, keen edge beveler which I rarely use, and their new craftool pro classic edger size #00 and fine edger. I use the #2 edge beveler the most, as it seems to cut smother and is a lot easier to control than the new pro classic edgers. I got the new #00 for thinner leather, but I hate the design, it is a lot harder to keep it at a consistent angle, and seems to cut about as much off as the #2 edge beveler. I wish Tandy sold their edge beveler smaller than a #2, as that would probably work better with thinner leather. The #2 has a really hard time with 4/5 oz and smaller. I can use the #2 on 4/5 oz if i put another piece of leather underneath, but it cuts off too much of the edge, and by the time I go to burnish, the edge is too thin and ends up folding over, and looking like garbage. Ideally, I would want to cut off as little as possible, so the edge isn't extremely round, more flat. But when I have tried that, the edge still folds over slightly on front and back, and doesn't look good. Does anyone have a method for getting a more flat (slightly rounded) edge, without the leather folding over? I am open to using another brand beveler, I would just like to hear everyones favorites first! Thanks! Zayne
-
Hi all, I am having issues getting a nice clean burnish on natural (un-dyed) veg tan. This is my process: I sand with 80 grit to make edges even and square if necessary. Sand edges with medium and then fine. Trim the edges with a tandy edge beveler. Wet the edges with small wool dauber as neatly as I can. Burnish with a wooden hand burnisher (picture below, I wonder if the burnisher I am using isn't the best). Then I add beeswax to the edge, and burnish again with the same wooden burnisher. My problem is, I am not getting a very clean edge. After I put water on the edge and do the first burnish, water leaks or is pushed onto the face of the leather, away from the edge, either by the burnishing, or just by the water itself. It makes the face look messy and the edge not like like a straight edge. This would be easy to hide if I were to dye the leather before my final burnish, but it looks really messy on natural leather, and honestly, I would like to just have a solid method that looks good regardless if I dye or not. I have read hidepounders tutorial on finishing edges, but I don't really want to use the paste or paraffin, I am trying to keep it to beeswax/water, or any other natural product. Thanks!
-
I have been using gum trag to finish the edges on all my other products, and it works alright. I was considering trying out fiebings saddle soap instead, to see how it works, but I recently heard that some animals might be allergic to glycerine, and I will be making some dog collars. So, does fiebings saddle soap have glycerine in it? Is it true that some animals might be allergic to it? If anyone has had any experiences with this, that would be very helpful. Also, as always, if there are any better/safer methods, feel free to advise! Thanks Zayne
-
Hi All, Please help! I'm going bonkers here. I just got some black Wickett and Craig english bridle leather and it's not struck through. I would like to dye the edges black but am seeking some advise from those who have done this before on bridle. Did you use oil or spirit based dye? Then sealed with beeswax then resolene? or just sealed with beeswax? I have tried spirit dye, then beeswax, but am still getting dye rub off. This would be for a handbag with shoulder strap, so wet (rain, sweat) on straps + clothes is not a combo I want to worry about. Also, on the grain side of this bridle leather, it's coming off with a cloth...does this mean it was a bad dye job? I seem to remember on their site it specifically says that this leather does not need a finish. Thanks. -
Hi All, I recently ran into some trouble with a Nerf holster I made. After lining up my edges and making sure they lined up as close to even as I could, I punched holes for my rivets. I then placed my rivets in the holes and capped them (without setting) to make sure everything was lining up correctly. It looked good, so I began to set my rivets. By the time I finished, somehow I ended up with edges that were misaligned. It is most notable near the top of the holster, see the included picture. My best guess is when setting the bottom rivets, the force of setting the rivet moved the leather ever so slightly and it compouned as I set the rest of the rivets. How can I avoid this in the future? Thanks in advance.
-
Hey all.. I'm good with finishing the inside of seams on leather items, and good with finishing seams on canvas items.. But when I combine the two I run into issues.. I'm making a waxed canvas bag with a reinforced leather bottom.. and I want the seams finishing on the inside of the bag.. Does anyone have suggestions on finishing the inside seams? I could do a bound seam, but other styles that lay flat just won't work for both.. French seams, flat felled seams are great for fabric, too tough for leather.. Any thoughts? Thanks Todd
-
I am a beginner to leatherworking, I just made my first belt last night. The belt was not dyed, I went through all the processes, including edge beveling/burnishing with water, gum trag on the back, finishing with acrylic resolene, and then applying obenaufs leather preservative as a conditioner. My question is, do I really need to apply a finish? I would have liked the belt to be a bit darker, which im sure obenaufs would have achieved, had I not put a finish on before hand. Would just skipping the acrylic resolene finish, and just putting the conditioner on affect anything? Sorry if this has already been discussed, I wasn't able to find any information on it in the forums. Thanks. -
There is a soft, pliable and draping undyed vegtan leather available: milled leather, with pronounced pebble grain, coming in thicknesses 3-4 oz and 5-6 oz. How the techniques of work with it are different from normal tooling vegtan? 1. Will it strech and change shape with use? 2. Does it have to be lined (not so smooth flesh side) or just be smoothed by Leather Balm or Resolene (or will it stretch and this seal be broken)? 3. Dyeing - Fiebing's spirit and Pro-Oil dyes in the usual way? 4. Sealing (moisture and rub-off resistance): on non-stretching tooling leather Resolene works well, but when leather changes its shape this seal may be broken. Any personal experience, please? 5. Finishiing to preserve pliability of this leather? Super Shene, Resolene and Eco-Flo Professional wax finishes seem to stiffen leather significantly, and Leather Balm, Aussie Conditioner and Montana Pitch Blend seems to be less protective for keeping dye from rub-off on clothes and less protective from rain or sweating (for small personal carry items or car seats, not as handbags). 6. Edging techniques? This is a thick soft leather, too soft for waxing and burnishing, unless edge was hardened soaked by SuperShene, and too soft and too thick for skiving edge, turning over and stitching along the edge. Roll over using the same leather seems to be out of question because of leather thickness (for small personal items, not handbags). Placing milled leather grain to grain side with thin 2-3 oz tooling leather, sewing along the edge, rolling over the thin tooling leather (as Paul Long lining works) should do the thick, but stiff tooling leather lining will limit pliability of milled leather. Making a thin strip of thin tooling leather/calf and roll it over the edge of milled leather will add stiff perimeter to otherwise pliable leather. Chrome tan suede, while being softer, is not suiable where only vegtan should be used. Tooling pigskin and goat are stiff too and have incompatible, IMHO, texture with pebbled milled leather. 7. For belt loops or handles: Because this leather doesn't hold the shape good, maybe less stretchable tooling leather should be used? 8. Using snaps at a flap: will this leather hold well with repeated pulling and closing at snap, or snaps should be used only if stiffener and lining were added? -
I am not good at finishing anything other than a solid color, I wish to learn the proper or best way to get the effect I am looking for I have used super sheen as a blocker and in my exp. it blocks out too much please help! Thanks
-
Hi All, Quick question about the process of dyeing and finishing when stitching a project by hand. I am working on my first sheath and will also be hand stitching for the first time. In general, should I start stitching with the leather already dyed and finished? Should I be stitching first and dyeing and finishing later on? Should I wait to finish the piece after dying and sewing it together in order let the acrylic finish protect the thread and holes from the awl? I'm not sure what the proper method should be for this and any guidance would be most appreciated.
-
Hi All! I've dyed some purse shoulder strap edges black (not veg tan), let dry 24 hours, and then have burnished with saddle soap. The edges look alright, but I tested with a little water and buffed with cloth to make sure that nothing would come off on someones clothes and sure enough, black. So, my "water resistant" dye is a bust? or did I make a mistake by using saddle soap? I want to make sure I get happy customers...not customers that need me to buy them new shirts. :/ Noted that I could try to roll edges, but I'm not quite at that level yet! Any help is much appreciated!
-
I've taken on a small project for a friend of mine. It's a wallet-type case for fly fishing flies. He's a big fan of the "all natural leather" look and I would like to leave the inside of the case highly sanded but not slicked so it has that suede-like feel to it. Being that this will be used near the water and is likely to get dripped on etc, I would ideally like to try and protect the inside cover without having to slick it. I'm relatively new to all this and am learning a ton of stuff on this site, but I haven't been able to stumble across anything like this. Would somebody mind educating me slightly? Much appreciated, Matt P.S. I forgot to mention I currently have super-shene, Fiebing's resolene, and Fiebing's leather balm neutral on hand.
-
I am wondering if anyone has used an air compressor to apply oil to their leather and even wax? Bascially I am trying to speed things up as right now I am applying oil by hand with a shop towel. I was thinking I might be able to spray it on. Dipping it is probably out of the question? Any other ideas are much appreciated! Thanks!
-
Hi there, I just dyed and finished a little keychain; when I went to bend the leather around the key ring, cracks developed (picture attached). Does anyone know why this happened? I used the Eco-Flo Pro dye line and the coorisponding matte finish. Super new so feel free to throw out any ideas! Thank you!! -
I've been searching around for a way of doing good, durable edges for m dog collars, normal burnishing isn't cutting the mustard for me. I came across Coba Slick on eBay & wondered if its any good. Does anyone have any experience with this or any alternatives. Many thanks Dave
