Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'glue'.
Found 55 results
-
Is there a method (which I'm sure there is) to NOT get Barge cement on your fingertips when lining up belt edges? I hope I'm not divulging my naivete', but this is getting old. It's tot he point that I wait to get a batch of belt orders so I don't have to spend EVERY day picking at Barge boogers off my hands.
-
So far, I have been using Tandy's rubber cement stuff to hold two pieces of leather together so that I can sew. The problem I have been having is with wallets in particular. I make the inside portion of the wallet shorter lengthwise than the outside, in order to assist the wallet in folding. So the cement I have been using doesn't work great because the two pieces wont hold in place while I wait for it to set up (I tried using clamps, but they mark the leather). Long story short, does anyone know of any glue that hold leather on leather really well that isnt extremely messy or overly toxic? I have read that Barge's is extremely toxic and contains carcinogens. Does anyone have experience with Weldwood? I guess I am looking for more of a permanent bond to hold the leather in place without clamps.
-
I have a friend who has an old western style gun belt and wants to know if I can take off the old cracked lining of the inside of the belt and replace it. I am fairly new to leatherwork, I've made some wallets, keychains, leatherman cases. But I haven't messed with lining too much especially the removal of old lining. Once I get the old stitches out what is the best way to remove the old lining without damaging the belt?
-
I am making a folio case and need to line it with pig skin, but the Horween leather I am using is very very waxy and I am worried the glue will not stick. I am wondering if there is away to remove the excess wax before I glue them togeather Anybody had the same problem and what did you do to get round it? Thanks -
Hello, I make watch leather straps and I've found that sometimes when I use minimal stitch the 2 pieces get unglue after a couple of weeks of use. I use Tear Mender. When that happens I apply loctite to fix the problem but I would like to find a glue that works from the beginning for this kind of use. Any suggestion?
-
Hey all, I have a dumb question. I am trying to get a better burnished edge, I think what I need is to glue some canvas to one of my wooden burnishers for a dremel and use that, rather than doing it by hand. Can any of you tell me what kind of glue to use? and should I overlap the canvas so there are no gaps or just glue it seem-to-seem? Right now all I have is the green weldwood contact cement, some wood glue, and some of that white water based elmers glue. Thanks! Zayne Thanks!
-
Hi, I'm trying to make a roll up backgammon board with leather on the outside and a silk cotton mix fabric on the inside. I'm having some trouble finding the correct bonding agent/glue to stick the fabric to the reverse (suede side) of the calf. The issue arise when I try to roll the board up (fabric on the inside), once rolled and unrolled ridges appear on the fabric which do not flatten out. Can anyone recommend a glue or something which will fix the two layers together enabling them to roll and unroll smoothly without bumping up. So far I have tried: vilene bondaweb (works perfectly for fabric to fabric but ridges up with leather), copydex (same problem), fast tak spray glue (doesn't ribbed up so badly but makes the board too stiff and dry, also leaks into the leather - however is amazing for sticking leather to wood!) Am based in the UK but am happy to try anything I can get my hands on.
-
Hello All - I am a new member, and this is my first post. I'm excited to begin learning from this community. I have an antique bicycle saddle that has split on the "nose," where it was riveted to the metal subframe. I'm debating whether or not I should try to reconnect the leather in this area, but do not want to experiment anything with the process. The value of the saddle is ~$300, so I do not want to risk devaluing it. Having said that, I've been looking around and seen a few products advertised to "glue" leather (Tear Mender). Would this be a safe method to use? In addition to this, should I use any other products to glue the leather to the steel subframe...was considering some kind of epoxy for this because it will be hidden once the leather itself is mended. Finally, is there anything I can use to fill the joint and color to match the rest of the leather? (see 2nd photo) I will not ever actually use this saddle to ride on, so I am not concerned with any weight stresses that would otherwise occur. The bike will only sit on display. Please see the photos below and let me know your thoughts! Thank you!
-
Hi everyone. Does anybody have any experience with Goodsjapan glues? Which one proved to be good in gluing some horween chromexcel straps in particular? Any thoughts would be appreciated -
I'm using (the old) Tandy Bag Stiffener R688 for small project, making a coin purse. I need to sandwich stiffener between flesh side of chromed tanned leather and flesh side of deer skin liner. I've read the posts "gluing large pieces of stiffener" and it's a great help. The liner is smaller in area than leather and liner. I end up with about 3/8" border all around the stiffener. So the gluing surfaces are stiffener-leather and leather-leather. Questions: Do I try to glue all three pieces in one operation or first glue stiffener to one side or the other? Can I use the same glue (cement) for the stiffener-flesh surface as for the leather-leather?
-
Hello and thank you for any help you can offer. I am new to leather working and would like to start making belts as my belt doesn't fit anymore. I have purchased all the tools I need and some I don't need. I purchased some leather, it was advertised as "5.5/6oz Red Brown Veg Tan Water Buffalo Single Bend Belt Strap Leather". It was not very expensive but I was not worried about it as this is basically leather that I will learn to hand stitch on. My intent was to glue to pieces together and stitch them. The leather arrived and in Picture 1 you can see what I believe to be the top of the leather. It looks basically identical to my current belt. I was expecting the back of the leather to be soft with grains showing, however it is very dark and hard. It feels like almost plastic. see pic 2 please. I have tried using EcoWeld Water Based Contact Cement to adhere the two pieces together, however the dark side (back) of the leather does not allow the contact cement to absorb in and therefore does not hold tight. I can easy pull the pieces apart after 24 hours of drying. The glue pulls right off one of the sides. So, I assume I have to rough that back side up to expose the grains so the glue will hold, or that the glue I am using is not correct. If I need to rough up to expose grains can anybody offer the best way to do this please. If its a glue issue can somebody please point me in a better direction. Lastly, what type of leather did I buy? Looking for the term used to descide the leather style that is treated on both sides,,,maybe?? Thank you for reading and any help you can offer. -Rudi -
I have to glue some cut out leather spoked gears to a bag... Now I can only glue the the one side of the gear. I can't use a contact cement because you have to glue both sides. What kind of glue would work? Now the reason I can't glue both sides is because the gear has lots of open cut thru areas where I couldn't clean up the glue in those spots any help would be appreciated.. Thanks Lew
-
I have been having a really hard time with using glue with leather. Mostly on zippers. I'm using them for a small toiletry type bag, and the pattern I'm using says to use rubber cement to glue the zipper in place before stitching. So far I haven't had much success with using rubber cement. It keeps pulling off as I stitch the zipper in. So I'm curious what others use for glue. I'd like to get this figured out because other projects I want to attempt all call for glueing the edges before stitching. Thanks in advance for an advice you may have.
-
I bought a "finished double shoulder 5oz" [Tandy #9048-60] to make my wife a tote bag, and am trying not to mess up. I have two questions: 1) Should I glue the seams? I have Barge that I've used for wallets, but I'm afraid I won't be able to line it all up correctly. If I'm going to hand stitch it, will the glue make it considerably stronger? Thoughts? 2) If the product says finished, should I add some finish to protect it further? I just made some homemade dubbin with olive oil, almond oil, vitamin e oil and beeswax. If I do add the dubbin, how long do I have to wait? How much should I apply? Thank you so much for the assistance. I just started working with leather less than a week ago, and there are SO many choices/questions.
-
So I just got my hands on a side of Horween Chromexcel. While it is very nice to work with, the first challenge I have run into is that it doesn't seem to glue very well. I have always used Weldwood and never had any issues, but it just didn't want to stick to this CXL. The surface is kind of slick, but I have glued other chrome tanned leathers before. I tried roughing up the grain side. It didn't help much, but I probably didn't rough it up enough, I just went over it lightly with sandpaper. Anyone had this problem? What kind of glue are you using on CXL?
-
HI Tried using a PVA glue but still comes through even if left to very tacky on the flesh side of to slide cards out. Veg Tan . If left too longwill not stick at all. The lining is a beige colour and is quite shiny. Not willing, yet, to go down double sided tape route yet. First time lining using a non leather product, should stick to pigskin but trying to design to" Steve Morelli " specifications that is very thin profile yet easy to slide cards out. Steve has a You TUBE channel and all he does , seemingly, is to review wallets. -
I'm looking for help or an idea on how to get fumes out of my leather shop. I have a wall or ceiling I can put a vent though. The things I use most that have fumes are barge cement and leather dyes. Generally if at all weather permitting I try to do these things outside but I can't always do that. If anyone has a exhaust fan installed in their shop or if you have any experience with this I would greatly appreciate any help. Thank you, Anna -
Hello, you leather geniuses, you. I am wondering if any of you have discovered any good natural leather adhesives with the same, or similar, holding strength as rubber cement (I currently use weldwood, with the red label). I would prefer something that is store bought, but I am completely open to brewing something up myself. I am sick of the fumes, and I always prefer the more natural route. I've heard that some people use PVA glue for leather on leather bonding, but it takes about 24 hours to set, and time is money. Also, PVA isn't natural. At the moment, the only thing I really use glue for, is to join two pieces of leather together at the edge, so I can set my stitching holes. As always, thank you so much for any advice! Zayne -
Good Morning all! I have been experimenting with different glues to use in my shoemaking, which is in an enclosed space and all cemented construction. I love how Aquilim 315 doesn't smell at all, but unfortunately, the hold is just not there the way I am doing it (not mixed with the crosslinker, and hammered for pressure-not a sole press). I like the hold on the Renia Cologne, but the toxic smell makes me want to pass out! Can anyone please recommend a cement for me to use? Some of my concerns are, once dry and set, and shoes get wet, or in the freezing weather that it still holds. Seems from other forums that Leatherweld would not be good once it freezes? Thanks so much and best regards, Faye **see pics where glue is coming apart at the waist
-
Hi All, I was wondering if anyone has used Aquilim 315 in lasting shoes? and for soles? How does it holdup when it gets wet? Is it easy to remove when it gets on the finished part of the leather? Does it hold up well for soles? Does it need the waterproofing solution to be used for shoes? Much appreciated... -
Simple question: Is there a glue/adhesive that bonds leather as securely or more securely than stitching? For clarity, I'm referring to the areas which are normally stitched, i.e the edges of wallets.
-
Hi, First of all I should say that I'm not a leather worker, and I've never worked with leather or anything similar. But this seems like a good place that may be able to answer my questions. I work in an office above a cobbler / key cutter in the UK. 2 or 3 times per day our office if filled with a very strong chemical / glue type smell. Which appears to be coming up through the floor boards. The last few works days it's been constant all day, and makes me very queasy. Our guess is it's the leather glue. We've written to the chains head office but they haven't replied. If knowing which UK chain it is helps I'll let you know. So my questions are, is this stuff safe to breathe in? Is the queasy feeling just because I don't like the smell, or is it something more dangerous? And also will I turn into one of these newspaper stories in 20 years time dying from lung disease / cancer? I know I haven't given much information to go on, and I may well be over paranoid, but thought you guys might have some insight. Thanks, -
Posting in here because I am interested to see some good glue options. This is prototype #1 for a collar I am making to sell in my shop(please ignore the fact that some rivets are uncentered and backwards as it is unfinished and I just placed them in the holes to get an idea of the end look). I attempted to sew the rabbit fur on, after glueing it on with Tandy Eco glue(which smells like watered down Elmers). However the fur pulled through the stitch holes and came out the front. I cut the stitches out and am working on ideas for stitching it. Is there a glue option that will last and can actually be worn without worry of it coming apart? I do not want to make a product that only looks good but is strong and functional that will last. I have several folks waiting already so any assistance is greatly appreciated. -
Hello All!! I'm looking for a little help on the cement front. I attach suede to the bottoms of shoes to turn them into dance shoes at several large swing dance events here on the Eastern seaboard. I've been doing it for several years now and recently ran into a problem when I bought a gallon of Barge's new cement formula... Specifically the Super Bond "Fast-Dry" with the gold label. I found the bond to not be as good as my previous trusty "old" formula Barge cement (which I can't get anymore)...and I had some unhappy dancers on my hands who's suede was coming off after only a couple days! I'm typically bonding rough or chrome suede to various types of rubber bottoms of existing shoes and usually do a quick cleaning and sanding of the bottom to rough it up before adhering and follow up with a mallet or roller for extra stick. Am I doing something wrong? Do you recommend a better method? And more importantly, is there a better cement on the market for attaching leather to rubber, while allowing it to remain a flexible bond? Time is a bit of the essence in my case as I need to go ahead and get a gallon on order in the next week or so. Thanks so much for your time! -
hi all, I'm new to leathercrafts, picked up my first set of stuff from my local Tandy here in Atl and I'm determined to make a perfect long wallet. I've made two prototypes, both made with veg tanned leather ~3oz. The first one i finished the edge with just Gum and 2nd one i stained it with tan color. Now the problem is, they all had glue lines. I used ecoweld from Tandy and did sand the glued edge before burnish (as suggested by Rusty in springfield's youtube video). As soon as i started to burnish the edge, the glue line will appear again and I can feel the glue if i run my finger on the edge. Is it the glue i'm using that caused this problem? Or should I just leave the edge out when I'm applying the glue? I realized the edge is probably the most important part to show the level of craftsmanship so i really want to get it down. Please help! thanks Daz
