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Ok, I got a Pfaff 545-H4-6/01. I know this is a really good machine but now I am trying to learn it and I could really use some help. I am very new to sewing machines but I am going to do what it takes to learn them. The first thing I need help on is the motor, I want to put a servo motor on it for better efficiency and being able to sew at slower speeds etc. but this machine has a lot of extras I have not seen on a machine and I do not know what exactly changing out the motor would involve. I am attaching a lot of pics to show what is on this Pfaff. I cannot even turn the motor on yet because the power cord is a 2nd phase cord (I think) and I only have the standard outlets in my shop. Anyways the motor is a Quick Rotan Synchro 6040. One thing that has me kind of baffled, the guy who I got the machine from said something about needing an air compressor hooked up to raise the walking foot. I think that is what he said but I am not sure if that is exactly what he was talking about. So this is a clutch motor right? Can I change the motor out and put a servo motor on the Pfaff? And what are all of the extra hookups on the back of the machine head? Thank you in advance. I can also take pictures of any specific part of the machine if someone needs to see it. the first 9 pics are of the motor and the last 3 are pics of the attachments on the back of the head of the sewing machine. Thanks a lot!
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I have been having a really hard time with using glue with leather. Mostly on zippers. I'm using them for a small toiletry type bag, and the pattern I'm using says to use rubber cement to glue the zipper in place before stitching. So far I haven't had much success with using rubber cement. It keeps pulling off as I stitch the zipper in. So I'm curious what others use for glue. I'd like to get this figured out because other projects I want to attempt all call for glueing the edges before stitching. Thanks in advance for an advice you may have.
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Hi All, Making a knife sheath, where you stitch the front and back together, and then the back goes up and over and folds down with a closure to connect to the front. I'd like to glue and then stitch pigskin into the sheath to line it 100%, but after than I want to wet the veg-tan leather through the pigskin so it can be wet formed by forcing the knife into the sheath to stretch it. So, is this an awesome idea or an awful one? Normally I'd just try it and learn from the experience but if the experience is "the project gets wrecked" I would be very sad. I'm confident I can wet the leather through the pigskin, but not confident I can wet it through the pigskin AND the layer of contact cement that'll be holding it on. I could glue the pigskin just at the stitching, but I worry it will pucker. Anybody have any ideas? This is mostly an aesthetic choice, but pragmatically I'm just trying to cover the back of the Line 24 snap to keep it from scratching the knife, and if worse comes to worst I can leave the grain of the leather exposed and just recess the snap. Thanks in advance! Dave
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I just received my Cobra class 4:) never owned or even used a sewing machine before. its a challenge, but what I would like to know is, how do I make using this easier? I hand stitch everything, so when I received my tax return, I bought the cobra. no telling when an opportunity would allow me another chance, so I jumped. is there any advice on practices or even places that instruct on this matter:) I have tons of crap, and soon that will run out at the rate I'm going. I only ask, because I really don't want to learn poor habits, instead id like advice of some good habits to build on. Thank you:)
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Hey everyone, I'm new when it comes to sewing machine and just got a Neel's Saddlery Model 5 that brand new but didn't come with an installation guide or user manual. I have everything (machine, table, peddles, engine, etc.) but it's not put together. Does anyone who has a model 5 be willing to scan or fax me a copy of their Operational manual / parts book or user guide / installation guide if there is one. I'm a fish out of water without that essential item. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Weston
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Hi All, TL;DR: Is there a non-painful way to hand-stitch a hidden seam on an article you can't just stitch and then turn inside-out? I'm musing about making a holster for my Browning Buck Mark .22 target pistol, and there's just something about WW2-style holsters that enchants me--the big foldover flap, integral mag pouch, etc. Most holsters of this style follow this generic pattern: Notably, the mag pouch is creased and then stitched quite closely to its edge, no doubt by machine. Yesterday I came across this image for a Czech Army holster, and I notice that all of the seams are tucked under: I have done a pocket or two using Ann Stohlman's trick of poking a tiny "gopher hole" in the outer layer every 10 stitches or so, so the needles can come up and through, but you keep the hole hidden by turning around and stitching right back down through it. As you get further from the gopher hole the awl and needle must pierce at ever increasing angles, so eventually you jump ahead another 10 stitches and make a new gopher hole. Right now the only way I can think to hide all of the seams is to stitch one side open-faced, then fold it over, stitch the bottom through the open side, and then gopher-hole the last side. Is there an easier way to do this? Thanks! Dave
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I am making these ribbons for my wife, she is the caretaker of a horse boarding and training facility and she organized this (her first) trail competition and it is taking place this weekend (yes I know Halloween was last weekend) so time is not on my side, I want it to go well and wanted to make some nice ribbons. I was happy to be almost complete tonight and then ran into this. How to securely attach these center buttons to the bow. I know I could glue it but there is very little surface area and I have already applied saddle lac to waterproof the colored portion and bee natural RTC to the buttons so I don't think the glue would adhere very well even if I scuffed it with so little to hang on to and the bows are somewhat ... Springy ... For lack of a better word so the glue would have constant pressure. I know this might be a stretch, but has anyone done anything like these before and might have a suggestion? I don't want a center piece popping out.
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Hello fellow leather crafters. My name is Firdaus Hilmy from Malaysia, so please excuse my poor English. I've been a member for nearly 2 years now but never post a topic before. I know there are few posts regarding to this topic but not quite answering my questions I'm about to ask. I want to make a long wallet like this Hermès MC2 Fleming wallet. The wallet slots are fully lined with leather. So, my question is what is the suitable thickness for each slots, the front and its lining? From your experience, what is the suitable leather for this wallet? Is goatskin suitable for this? Thank you in advance and sorry for asking too much questions. Really appreciate if you guys can help me with this.
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Basketweave stamping is quickly becomeing my new nemesis. I just can't seem to 1) stay on a straight line with it or 2) space the stamps properly. I've been watching the Tandy tutorials and always make a guideline and work back and forth on either side of it, but my technique does not seem to be improving. Does anyone have any other helpful hints or suggestions?
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An old freind of mine found a beautiful antique elastic leather repair machine, and he really wants to get it back into operating condition. Problem is we have no idea what kind of machine this is. I cant find alot of information on the machine but will be having a better look at it tonight. I would like to know who manufactured this machine and if there is any availability on parts. Maybe model #, year, maker, anything to help with my search. Thanks
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I recently bought a splitter off the tandy outlet supply site, req $899 got it for around $250. Every time I got to split leather it carves out the centre of my piece and the outer edges are the thickness i wanted. I have tried in several locations across the 8" blade so I know its flat and not a bent blade. Has anyone had this happen to them, could it be my technique or did I buy a lemmon tool. I have posted some pics of the splitter and what its doing. Thank you for your assistance. James Newbie
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First off, I apologize for any mistakes made in this post, I am a very young and inexperienced leather worker. I am making a simple wallet that has 4 pieces of leather total, doesn't fold, and only has 3 slots total. I have made more complicated for others, but for me, I like simple. I dyed the leather with antique, using no resist as I wanted the antique affect and the saddle tan colour. Do I need to put on another finish over the antique like super sheen to seal it in, or can I leave it as is? Most likely the wallet will get plenty of sweat on it, and go in and out of my jeans pocket regularly. If another overcoat to "seal" it is needed, is there anything that I can use that won't give it the super glossy, shiny finish that super sheen does? Here is a picture:
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Hey y'all! A family member has asked me to reupholster her wheelchair with tooled leather. On the back she wants a log with four children sitting on it, facing away, so we see their backs. She wants them to have angel wings and the log to have a branch coming off it with four leaves, one for each child's name. I'm a decent drawer, but this is beyond me. The children need to be sized according to age: 11, 9, 6, and 2. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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I'm having trouble adjusting the speed on my servo motor I got with my Juki-Lu563. It's a Nick-O Sew model #NKS-4000. [imgur](http://i.imgur.com/hhYJ8L9.png) I can't find a manual for this and Nick-O customer service doesn't seem to have much knowledge of the issue. When I turn it on, the display just reads zeros and then the exterior diodes (idk what they're called) create a rotating circle going clockwise. The servo works, but I can't adjust the speed. pushing the arrows does nothing. When I got the servo, it didn't have a fuse, so I had to replace it, but other than that it seems fine. I would appreciate any help! Thanks,
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Hello there, I am looking for some one that knows something about different types of leather so i came here. Now what I am makeing is lacrosse leather (hopefully you atleast know what lacrosse is) as you can see by the picture below Now as you can see the four black"runners" that run down the lacrosse stick is leather this leather needs to be 8oz thick and i will probaly cut the leather myself. Now why am i here? because i want to revolutionize the game.Ok maybe not revolutionize but i want to offer something different to the lacrosse market so my idea is to have waterproof lacrosse leather that still feels like normal lacrosse leather. This has been done once before but all it was was normal lacrosse leather with wax coating but this coating has a wierd feel to it. so i need waterproof leather and make it still feel like normal lacrosse leather Normal lacrosse leather is Vegatable tanned, chrome tanned or alum tanned but these arn't water proof So what i need is a type of leather that is water proof and has to "feel" like Vegatable tanned, chrome tanned or alum tanned by feel i mean have similuar strech and consitancy. it also has to be durrable and 8oz thick (give or take 5oz) for further information you can read this article http://laxallstars.com/traditional-thursday-truth-leathers/ I did some research and i was thinking latigo leather but im not sure hopefully someone can make a suggestion Maybe this is unanswerable maybe im an idiot oh well only youre answers will tell (if you can sell this leather to me or know where i can get some im willing to buy)
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I am in dior need of some knowledge.... Last night my husband & I bought a diamond in the rough. It was a pre= 1980 Original Billy Cook MAKER Greenville, TX 15" cutting saddle. I was BEYOND excited for this find & couldn't wait to clean it up! So today i went to it with soap & water, a sponge, & a tooth brush to get into the floral tooling... the dirt was really deep in there & still wasn't come out so i talked to my friend who has restored a couple older saddle & she said power wash it.... i was a little hesitant but i took her word for it... My husband power washed it on LOW in a fan setting on the washer & now in some spots it looks like the finish has literally been taking off... she reassures me this is normal & i don't believe her. I have put several coats of 100% pure neatsfoot oil on it & it is soaking now but i'm terrified i have now ruined this saddle. But also this saddle has been repaired in a few places that i can see & is very old so scuffs may also be from wear & tear but still, i'm freaking out a little. What are you thoughts? Tips? Suggestions? Kind words to keep me from breaking down into tears...lol Pictures of before & after included... -
So... I'm trying to wrap my head around this new machine I picked up two weeks ago. It's a Pfaff 335-H3 (I'm not sure what the "H3" designation represents). The Motor is a Efka Variostop. I'm not sure of the year on either, but it all looks to be original. So far with very little fuss I have it stitching nicely with a 22 Needle and 138 thread. My intent is to use it for wallets, totes, case, etc. So here are my questions... Efka Variospeed - Is this a positive or just a pain in the rear for a newbie? It's not too difficult to get it to run slow, but still I wonder if it would be better to just go ahead and get a new servo motor? I read in a desperate post that the variostop motor adds to the value significantly. Is that correct? Air Compressor - There's a weird air compressor type deal attached to the motor. I believe it controls the position of the pressed feet, but I don’t see how to adjust it (see next question). It even looks like I can hook up my larger compressor to it, but I’m not sure that’s a good idea. So... Is nematic hookup a positive thing or just more trouble for me to deal with?Only one Pedal - Pressing back on the pedal raises the raises the center presser foot and needle, but the outter feet remain down. I have to use the left handle to raise both feet and release the materials. Is this correct? Is there a way to adjust this function? Accessories… Roller Guide to be Specific - I understood there to be lots of different accessories for these machines, but I’m at a loss with finding them. Anyone know where I can get a roller guide for this model? Since I’m VERY new to using a sewing machine, the guide will help tremendously. New Pressor Feet - These presser feet have teeth, and it marks the oil tanned leather I've run through it so far. Should/can I buy new smooth feet or is it just easier to file them down? If I file the teeth down, is there anything I should be aware of? Value - I hoping you all can make me feel better about my purchase… What would you estimate the value of this machine to be as is with the Variostop motor? I think I got a great deal on it, but think it could really be a stunning machine with a little attention. The local industrial machine shop quoted me about $250 to have a new servo motor installed, and the machine tuned. Is it worth the cash? Pictures of the machine are below. As always… Thanks for the help and feedback! This is a great resource.
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Hey everybody, my name is Scott and I'm from Houston, Texas. I've been lurking here for a while, but this is my first post. I'm interested in making wallets, belts, holsters, sheaths, and eventually bags and shoes. I just got my orders in from Tandy, Barry King, and Abbey England. I think I have most of the stuff I need to get started, but let me know if there are some tools that you think I will need or that will make my life easier. Not pictured is a 12" by 24" poundo board, and I have plans on buying a scrap piece of marble or granite from a countertop shop down the road. I have been reading for hours everynight, but I know I am going to have so many questions once I get started. Next on my list at the moment - buying my first bit of leather. I am pretty sure I am going to go with wickett and craig, probably a double shoulder or something. But any suggestions would be cool. I am a complete beginner, the one thing I do know is that I know nothing. At the moment I have questions about what weight leather I should order. Can I get a reference as to which weight leather I should use for different items. Obviously wallet leather needs to be much thinner than say a belt. Is there a weight I can order so that I could use two layers to make a belt and still have it be the right weight to make say a holster or sheath. Big thanks to everyone who contributes to these forums, I have learned a lot from just lurking and reading, and thanks in advance for any help I receive in the future. -
I am working on my first carving. I am looking to get some more definition on the edges of the carved lines. I used craftool B197 to bevel all the lines but would like to see some more definition. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to accomplish this. Please help.
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Hello, hope everyone is well... Need a little help on trying to source this type of leather or at least get a name for it. I don't know much about leather at all but I've done my best to describe and send pictures to suppliers without any success. Please see the attached images. - The leather is 2mm thick and is very soft and flexible. - It can be stretched a little which is a must. - The leather can be scrunched up in the hand. - The back of the leather has a suede finish. - The leather goes lighter in colour when bent etc. (i believe this is like 'pull-up' leather?) The only thing I can find which comes close is nappa but i can only find this in around 1mm, this leather is 2mm thick. Any help on what leather this is or UK suppliers would be amazing! Thanks in advance, Tom
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I am wanting some reviews or advice on this machine someone is selling one with a clutch motor in my area and was curious what everyone has to say about this and if it would work for leather. Also if anyone knows what the limitations of this machine would be. and this going price. thanks for any help.
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Hello to everyone on this interesting and friendly forum of leatherworkers. My name is Brett and I am hungry to learn about leatherworking as a hobby and a business. I live in the north western part of Virginia about 50 miles west of Washington, D.C. I find myself in a career field where it is difficult to find a place for someone of my age (53) and with the lack of currently required skills. Not to mention I have hated what I do for the last 8+ years, which makes it hard to go to work and have any happiness. So I am exploring other options for making a living and I am looking for some advice as far as the leather business is concerned. I know hearing about one more newbie wanting to get into the leather business is probably the last thing a professional wants to hear. I have done what I would categorize as leather craft projects in the past. Belts and holsters mostly and all my hand no machines. Unfortunately I made my first holsters when I first became a gun owner (I had experience with firearms in the military)and did not know very much about either. That was 25 years ago and now I am an avid gun owner, shooter and hunter. So before I start spending real money I want to find out if this is this a business someone can break into and make a living? Thanks everyone and anyone who replies. Brett
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Hello to everyone on this interesting and friendly forum of leatherworkers. My name is Brett and I am hungry to learn about leatherworking as a hobby and a business. I live in the north western part of Virginia about 50 miles west of Washington, D.C. I find myself in a career field where it is difficult to find a place for someone of my age (53) and with the lack of currently required skills. Not to mention I have hated what I do for the last 8+ years, which makes it hard to go to work and have any happiness. So I am exploring other options for making a living and I am looking for some advice as far as the leather business is concerned. I know hearing about one more newbie wanting to get into the leather business is probably the last thing a professional wants to hear. I have done what I would categorize as leather craft projects in the past. Belts and holsters mostly and all my hand no machines. Unfortunately I made my first holsters when I first became a gun owner (I had experience with firearms in the military)and did not know very much about either. That was 25 years ago and now I am an avid gun owner, shooter and hunter. So before I start spending real money I want to find out if this is this a business someone can break into and make a living? Thanks everyone and anyone who replies. Brett
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Hi there! I'm pretty new to leatherwork and am having some issues with staining. I'm using eco-flo gel antique on some bracelet blanks, but once they're all coloured the dye seems to sticking in all the little pore-like dots in the leather and I can't get it out. This makes it look a little dirty and uneven. As I said, I'm still new to leather work so I don't know if this is something I'm doing wrong? Or something wrong with the leather or the antique? I've attached a picture of the bracelet in question, so you can see what I'm talking about and 'cause my description probably isn't that good! I'd really appreciate any advice anyone has to help me out Thanks! -
I found this old leather hatchet cover from my grandfathers house (who recently passed). As you can see from the photos, it looks as though it has some water damage. I Photoshoped his name out with the red just for posting purposes; he wrote his name with a black sharpie on the leather. My grandpa was a huge part of my life and I loved him very much. I want to keep this leather hatched cover as a reminder of him but Im not sure if I should try and repair it in any way. I want to keep it in its original state as much as possible. Does anyone have any ideas or advice?? Thanks!
