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Showing results for tags 'holsters'.
Found 85 results
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I was going to make a Mexican double loop holster BUT I glued two sides together to get a thick piece and it is so thick I am worried that I won't be able to pull the holster through the loops. Last night I thought about modifying the project and do two loops that go around the holster body- like on a Buscadero rig. I thought I could cut 2 vertical slots for the loop on the back flap and then sew the ends of the loops together. I however have been looking at photos and it seems that there may be no slots and the loops are between the holster body and back flap. I think I'd prefer the slots- if it is done that way- keeps the holster body next to the back flap. I could "loose stitch" the ends of the loop together to get it into position and then tighten it up. I need advice on how this is usually done. Thanks for any help.
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Do you ever want to talk a customer out of their custom order/idea. At the last gun show, I got a few doozies. One fellow asked for a 3" wide belt ... 3" wide. He wanted to wear it over his hunting gear. I measured him on my sizing belt, I asked him a second and third time, "Three Inches??!!" Yep. "You realize that's essentially a weight lifting belt." Yep. "You realize that's wider than any duty belt." Yep. I had to get the buckle from Weaver, and I'm sure it's intended for use as a Draft Horse tack. I applied a reasonable upcharge and just finished the belt .... I'll keep you posted. Another guy, who just took delivery on IWBs for a Charter Arms Bulldog 44 and a Ruger Security Six promptly ordered a crossdraw IWB for a full size 1911. You may not think that's odd, but this fellow stands about 5'2". I wondered to my table mates if he ever sits down. Of all the orders I had last month, NOT ONE did I have a pattern for. Two required using a live firearm (fortunately, the same Glock 40 (yes, an IWB as well!)) and I'm now, apparently in the bodybuilding industry. Is it just me, or is this par for the "Custom" course?
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leathercraft My leather shop, and my work...
TacticallySharp posted a topic in All About Us and Off Topic
This is my third leather studio-shop in the last 14 years. Prior to the three I worked out of a 2x4' closet. The one I will be showing is mainly the main bench of my 12.5x16" spare master bed room in the far side of my Florida home. Fully environmently controlle with 5500K overhead lighting, LED spot lighting, and a magnifying LED craft like. The tools I use nearly daily are on this bench. I have a couner height workbench behind me that has a couple of rivet, tool presses on it, a 6" leather skiver, and more tools. I currently have a collection of 400 midas stamps, nearly 200 USA Craftools, and a few unmarked one. I have room left there if I need to expand. I will be setting up a small shop this summer in our North Carolina vacation home, God willing! That way we can spent a few weeks with our grandkids in the mountains. Now the photos. Including some of my custom tools if I have them on my cellphone.- 2 replies
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- tactically sharp
- gbrackett
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This is my third leather studio-shop in the last 14 years. Prior to the three I worked out of a 2x4' closet. The one I will be showing is mainly the main bench of my 12.5x16" spare master bed room in the far side of my Florida home. Fully environmently controlle with 5500K overhead lighting, LED spot lighting, and a magnifying LED craft like. The tools I use nearly daily are on this bench. I have a couner height workbench behind me that has a couple of rivet, tool presses on it, a 6" leather skiver, and more tools. I currently have a collection of 400 midas stamps, nearly 200 USA Craftools, and a few unmarked one. I have room left there if I need to expand. I will be setting up a small shop this summer in our North Carolina vacation home, God willing! That way we can spent a few weeks with our grandkids in the mountains.
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- gbrackett
- tactically sharp
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Here is some of my new Holsters. Got the new venture up and going. THX from Barefoot Hillbilly Leather
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I'm sure this has been asked, I just can't find it. Is there a better way to seal live(NOT loaded) guns when wet-molding holsters? I use packing cling wrap, which works OK, but I end up spending more time cleaning, drying and oiling guns than I do working leather. The cling wrap does about a 90% job of it most times. I'm just wondering if there is a miracle method out there to keep live guns dry during wet molding. Also, I vacuum mold the holsters for the rough mold ... if that makes a difference. A shop press in in the near future! Thanks!
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Hello to All, I got interested in CAS (Cowboy Action Shooting) about three months back and joined SASS (Single Action Shooting Society) two months ago. I am trying to gear up and have been looking at double holster rigs designed specifically for the sport. There are many beautiful rigs out there, and all come with a hefty price tag to match their quality. I was also looking at Cowboy Cuffs, and thought I could make those. Not long after that thought came the next which was, if I was going to buy some leather tool and supplies, I might as well make my holster rig as well and save some money. Well I just got done purchasing some basic tool, and am making a list of additional tools that I might need. Turns out by the time I buy the books, tools, equipment, and leather, I am not going to save any money at all. Well at least I will have the satisfaction of making my own gear. I am wondering this though: Am I the only one here stupid enough to take on two expensive hobbies at the same time? Oh and I forgot to mention that while at the local antique mall last Saturday, I found and purchased a late 1800s J. D. Randall Company saddle stitching horse. Remington Steel.
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--> Beginning of rant. I'm putting this out here in hopes that it will help another seller avoid the stupid mistake I made trying to accommodate a buyers request on Ebay. I'm still on the fence about if this is some sort of scam, or maybe this guy's wife just got angry he spent so much money. Long story short ...A buyer contacted me asking for 5 of my leather holsters to be heavily customized. I agreed with the caveat that since they're customized, they would not be returnable. He acknowledged that he understood they were not returnable. He pays, I fabricate, customize and ship the first 4 holsters, he receives them, leaves positive feedback, orders the 5th holster based on the first 4, then 1 hour after he receives the 5th holster in the mail, puts in a return request for both orders, with the reason "I changed my mind". I replied and told him that I wouldn’t accept the returns. He opened cases with Ebay, who of course immediately found in his favor and accepted the returns on my behalf. I contacted customer service, she read the cases and messages where he agreed to no returns. The moment she pointed out that the return policy on the item itself said "30 day returns", I knew I had lost. Now I get to toss out $300+ of custom leather holsters, that I likely can't resell to anyone else. Here's the lesson learned: Even if the buyer agrees to no returns, if the item return policy indicates it can be returned, you're stuck, and have to accept the returns, even if the buyer agreed in writing not to return the item(s). That individual item return policy has to be set to "No Returns" for Ebay to honor that. The customer service lady was actually very sympathetic, she suggested once I get the returned items, that I inspect them thoroughly to make sure they're in the same new condition that I shipped them and suggested that if they're not, I open cases. But I suspect even if they're damaged and I open cases, that Ebay won't do anything about it. I'm guessing that even if Ebay had agreed and not made me accept the return, he would have likely opened a case with PayPal or even charged back his credit card. I've never left negative feedback for buyers, but I might make an exception in this case. I'm waiting to see the returned items before I make a decision on that. Lesson learned: Cost of this lesson: $300 plus shipping. There needs to be blacklist of buyers that try to screw over sellers. --> End of rant.
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Cobra Class 4 Premium mounted on pedestal table. Has less than 10 hours of operation on it. Click on link to see machine specs: http://www.leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-class-4-p-premium-package/ Located in Salinas, CA $2500 + shipping if applicable, available for pick up. Call Cheri at 831-679-2769 or email crivaheffren@yahoo.com
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- cobra
- leather sewing machine
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Here's a few of my latest. The screws on the first have since been replaced with one-way snaps. First gun show in a couple months!
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Hello, My name is Juddie (pronouced like muddy but with a "J") and I have new to leathercraft. Just started doing this back in June of 2016 when I made a sheath for my Leatherman. After doing that I made a few knife sheaths for fixed blades and a couple folders, then started into making some holsters and it just keeps going. I been looking for a site that I could ask questions or maybe even get some ideas on ways to improve. I am a member of several Facebook groups about leather crafting. Here are some examples of some of my work. I am very tuff skinned so any comments whether good or bad, any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks for allowing me to join the site. Juddie (aka WVHunter129)
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Big thanks to JLS for the free download. I am really happy with the way these turned out. I would really appreciate any constructive comments you may have. This was the first time I used saddle soap on the edges (learned that here). Really like the results. In a addition, I posted a picture of a holster and mag pouch I made from a Grohmley pattern. The colors of the leather don't match well, but overall I was pretty happy with them. Now I need to make a matching belt.
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First made by request and sold holster, SOB, IWB or OWB, palm in. For SIG 229C.
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gun model, caliber, barrel length $25 per gun, or $2200 for all. $30 shipping for all or $5 shipping for each. any questions contact zack davis at 208 250 6570 ruger Blackhawk 357 6.5" ruger blackhawk 44 7.5" asp fn 40/9 fm-hi power 9 fnx 9 colt python steyr m9 bersa thunder 380 bersa thunder 380 cz 75b cz sp01 9 picotiny rail cz 75 p-07 9 picotiny rail pw arms p-64 9 rhino 2" walter pps 40 walter pk 380 walter ppq walter ppk/s 9 mp 45 sw 629 6" sig p239 sig p250 sig mosquito sig p229 sig p220 sig p230 sig p238 sig 938 sig p250 4.5" sig sp 2340 sig p226 picotiny rail sig p226 1911 springfield micro compact 45 3.25" 1911 colt commander 45 3.5" 1911 colt 5" 1911 springfield a1 45 5" 1911 commander 4.25" 1911 springfield operator 45 5" picotiny rail glock 43 9 glock 42 9 glock 19 9 glock 36 45 glock 26 9 glock 30 glock 30 45 glock 34 9 glock 17 9 Kimber solo carry kahr pm9 kahr cw9 kahr p380 Taurus millennium pt 140 pro 40 Taurus pt 145 pro Taurus judge laser 2" Taurus pt 40 Taurus judge 2" kahr cw 45 Taurus judge 3" smith Wesson gov 2.75" ruger p95 dao lc9 lc9 crimsm trace laser lcp lcp laser ruger sp 101 2.75" ruger speed six 2.5" colt single action 6.75" ruger red hawk 7.5" sr 9c lcp sr40 sr22 ruger red hawk 2.5" ruger gp 100 4" ruger lcr xd 40 tatical sr 45 ruger p90 ruger p89 xd m-9 xd m-40 xdm xds xd-40 sub compact ruger vaquero 5.5" xd-45 acp xd-40 hk-usp 45 hk-45 hk-usp 9/40 hk p30 9 hk usp compact 9 beretta nano mp shield 9 mp 9 beretta tomcat mp 40c smith Wesson 6906
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I made Glock 19 thumb break holster, G27 avenger holster and 2 magazine pouch in set. I hope, you like it!
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Howdy All, I'm brand new to the forum, and wanted to begin gathering some feedback on my work. Started leather working as hobby just a couple of months ago after being inspired by savoy leather and Sam Andrews videos on YouTube. This was my first pass at a tooled Springfield XDm holster. Made from 8oz Oak-leaf and lined woth glazed pigskin. It has a neatsfoot oil finish, and painted tooling. Finally I top coated it with acrylic resolene. Thoughts comments and critiques welcome!
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Wet Forming After Antique Finish
SLP posted a topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Please forgive me if I'm not doing this right. This is my first time on any forum. I am attempting to construct a holster with an antique finish. I am curious if wet forming will destroy the finish. I have tooled the leather (6-7oz) and plan to line with 3-4oz. I'm using eco flo gel antique. I don't want to do any intense moulding that will destroy the tooling, but I would like a snug fit. Do I just antique finish first and accept that some will be removed while wetting and forming? I plan to "seal" with super shene. Between the cement and super sheen I assume the water will take longer to penetrate sufficiently to form. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.- 11 replies
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Hi All, TL;DR: Is there a non-painful way to hand-stitch a hidden seam on an article you can't just stitch and then turn inside-out? I'm musing about making a holster for my Browning Buck Mark .22 target pistol, and there's just something about WW2-style holsters that enchants me--the big foldover flap, integral mag pouch, etc. Most holsters of this style follow this generic pattern: Notably, the mag pouch is creased and then stitched quite closely to its edge, no doubt by machine. Yesterday I came across this image for a Czech Army holster, and I notice that all of the seams are tucked under: I have done a pocket or two using Ann Stohlman's trick of poking a tiny "gopher hole" in the outer layer every 10 stitches or so, so the needles can come up and through, but you keep the hole hidden by turning around and stitching right back down through it. As you get further from the gopher hole the awl and needle must pierce at ever increasing angles, so eventually you jump ahead another 10 stitches and make a new gopher hole. Right now the only way I can think to hide all of the seams is to stitch one side open-faced, then fold it over, stitch the bottom through the open side, and then gopher-hole the last side. Is there an easier way to do this? Thanks! Dave
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A few holsters that I made. Still new at this, but happy with the overall
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Good day, I am an established leathersmith from Greensboro, NC. Always looking to learn new techniques and such. I work with any leather and any iem but concentrate on custom work. Check out my website at http://dragonleather.net. I can be contacted from the contact section of the menu. Good to be here. A few samples of my work are attached. Obviously you can see more at my web site. Dave
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I've begun making holsters and gun leather on a hobby / someday-business basis. It's gone well and I've started making holsters for friends and others. I'm getting ready to start my first IWB holster, and wanted some input on the best way to reinforce the top strap so as to make it stay open for re-holstering. Does a rawhide insert work well, or will I need to get spring steel or some other insert? I've heard some people use pallet banding, but does that really retain the shape well enough long term?