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I have wanted to learn how to carve for a long time so I stopped at my local leather shop and picked up a few tools and i pamphlet. This is my first attempt. I think my leather was to dry. I ok with the results but I can see how having a wider variety of tools would be helpful. I see my bank account getting smaller and smaller. I know I have a long way to go but I am excited to get started. Unfortunately in my area there are no classes so I guess I will search youtube for some help.

Well OK - not a million in this particular post ... Backstory: I've been playing with fancying up horse tack with rivets, conchos etc and am also starting out OK with some braiding techniques. Of course I have also been lurking here for a while now, getting up the courage to try something more advanced. And now - my DH has challenged me to make him a pair of spur straps for Xmas (fortunately didn't say which year). I have found a local source for pre-cut straps at a reasonable price so right now I'm not focused on cutting leather. For my first attempt I went with my strengths and simply attached a concho to the pre-cut and thought I was done - but then... the questions started. the concho is applied with screw-backs - does this mean that the strap should be lined to prevent it scratching the boots, or is it useable as is? If I added spots around the button hole(s) and turned their ends inside can I still get away without lining? does it need actual lining grade leather- or doubling up with the same weight leather (looks to be about 4mm thick)? will suede work for this? should any lining cover the whole area or could this be a partial coverage (i.e. just around the screw-backs / central design area) I assume if it is lined this has to be glued then stitched down or is there another option? I'm OK with stitching - this will push me into learning something new as well as getting new tools. should I have applied any finishing on the leather before attaching the concho? what else should I be doing? I have attached a picture of my current (minimal) progress. It all sounded so simple when I first set out but now I'm second guessing myself. At the same time I'm kind of excited that this looks like it is going to lead me into new skills. Any and all replies welcome

Hello all! I’ve been pouring over the forums, finding lots of good tips and hints, interesting info and the like. It definitely seems like this is the most informative place out there for leatherworking questions! That being said, I’m a newbie to leather working, though I’ve wanted to try for years. I recently broke down and bought a lot of the starting tools for what I want to do, which is create dog products like collars and leashes. I’ve been making paracord items for the last bit and want to expand my talents/ hobby so to speak! I’d eventually like to make my own dog a service dog harness since vests tend to rotate around his deep but narrow body! But that will come in the future. Now I have a few questions, some are related to other threads I’ve found but such threads were also around 3-4 years old, so I figured I’d have better luck creating a new post in this newbie area! So here are my questions: I am interested in learning how to line collars, is there a tutorial out there on how to do this? Also with that in mind what is the best leather to use to line dog collars? I see things like harnesses padded with a wool type material, is this usual sheep skin? Is there a place that I can buy and/or download patterns for harnesses, and sight hound collars? What would be some good books to read about making dog items? What are the best braiding books? Any handy tutorials on dog collar/leash making? Any suggestions would be helpful! I have a nice base idea of what I’m wanting to do,but since I’m best at following tutorials and patterns then modifying once I have basics done on any craftsy thing, I figured I’d ask.Paracord tutorials are EVERYWHERE but the leather stuff seems to be a closely guarded secret! Thanks in advance!

I am going to be starting off on leatherworking with dog collars as a basic start, but I've no clue where to get the tools and leather, how much it will be, and even what kind of leather would be best for various types of collars... Someday, I am aiming for being able to make all sorts of leatherworks, even jackets, vests, etc. I could go into a lot more detail of what I'm wanting to do but I have to get my butt to bed because I have work in 8 hours. All I need is some great suppliers of both the tools I will need to start and the best leather for beginner collars, as well as tips, advice, and even walkthroughs from the experienced leatherworkers around.

Hi there. I've been reading through a lot of the forums discussing various machines and what they're used for . . . and to be honest (and perfectly blunt) I'm so NEW to leather working (and sewing) most of it is just Greek to me. Can you help? I'm very eager to learn. Here's my story: I make leather book covers and simple leather bags from scrap upholstery leather. Totally self-taught. I use a home machine (Brother SE 400) which has served me well for the past 5 or so years. Recently I've begun creating flat-bottom bags that require my machine to sew through about 4 layers of thin leather . . . and my machine is none too happy. I'd also like to branch out and start to use thicker leathers, but that's never been an option with this machine. I'd also like to sew zippers without the fear of dying..but I'm not sure that will ever happen. What I'm looking for: I have about $1,200 to spend (including shipping, handling and all additional things). I'm looking for a new machine. Maybe a 'starter' machine. That's easy to use/learn for a newbie. That will sew thin upholstery leather (let's say four layers of 1.1mm) but also give me the chance to try something thicker for strapping or wallets. Does this exist? Brand names you trust? Where do you buy them? Online? How much does shipping usually run for these large heavy machines? (All the technical talk of bobbin and thread size have my brain wobbling around in my head - I know I need a walking foot machine, but that's really all I know.) Your help is so much appreciated. Thanks! talia

I have a SewPro Mini 441 machine that I'm still trying to get up to speed on. I do a variety of work - passport covers, wallets, belts and straps, journal covers, medium and heavy bags. I'm also looking into getting a Pfaff 345 and and/or a flatbed walking foot machine or a Single 30-15 machine. The second or third machine would be for wallets, totes, various cases and linings/interiors. You can see my work here http://www.instagram.com/odinleather. I definitely welcome your feedback on choice of machines for these purposes. Would a that Pfaff 345 with some sort of flat top attachement work for wallets and totes or should I stick with a true flatbed like a 30-15. I like using 138 and 207 thread weights. Regarding pressor feet and plates... I don't quite understand yet the pros and cons that the different pressor feet and plate combinations for the 441 machine offer. My 441 machine came with a center-toe pressor foot that is closed (the thread passes through it). It seems some center-toes are open - is this a benefit? Outer pressor foot has a double toe (left and right side). Whats the benefit of changing these pressor feet? Does using a left or right toe offer benefits that I don't understand? Also... How does one choose the right plate for a project? What unique benefits does a holster plate, or stirrup plate offer that a regular plate does not. As always ALL your feedback is welcome and appreciated.

Greetings from the 'burgh! I've been dabbling in leatherwork for a couple years, more seriously working since last May. Started as just making hackjob gun holsters because buying them is so expensive. Then got into making wallets, notebook covers, knife sheaths, etc after finishing college last spring. Can't find any good pictures of my sheaths or holsters at the moment, but here's a sampling of stuff I made for the family for Christmas. Please feel free to share any critiques, I've learned all I know from observing other work on here or the web so advice is greatly appreciated!

Hi, Does anyone know of leather working classes offered in the greater Metro-Detroit area? I've googled and used google maps to search but haven't found anything.

Hi All, I'm a total noob, I love leather cuffs/wristbands/bracelets. I'd like to start making these and would like some helping determining which tools to start with. How much should I spend on draw gauges, edge bevelers etc. What else do I need to cut/radius the corners and what sizes? How to procure leather samples/swatches? I don't plan doing much embellishing/carving but would like to use studs/gromets/snaps/rivets etc. as hardware/fasteners. Eventually some stitching but not right away. I appreciate any help and advice. I look forward to the day when I can contribute to this forum. Thanks! Mike

I just picked up my very first sewing machine. I've been hand stitching everything (satchels, bags, wallets, belts, cases, etc.) for the last 2 years and decided it was time to step up. I bought from a local dealer - Bogle-Greenwell. I was able to do some test runs with it on some belt scraps. Its stitching well, but I have noticed a couple of things... 1) The feed dogs (on bottom) are leaving teeth marks on the rear of my material 2) The presser feet (on top) are also leaving marks (smoother than whats's happening on the bottom, but marks none the less) 3) The stitching on the bottom side is clean - there are no loops, but it doesn't look nearly as nice as the top. I apologize if the vocabulary is a little off - I'm not yet up to speed on all the sewing maching terminology yet... But I'll get there. If any of your pros could point me in a good direction to fixing these issues I would greatly appreciate it. Also, if you can refer me to any good reference materials - books, videos, etc. - on how to use this machine that would help too. Honestly, while I figured out how to thread the needle, I don't even understand how to wind the bobbin or replace it yet. So... Your help is definitely needed. Thanks.

My name is Dennis and I'm new to leather craft. I've always enjoyed seeing other peoples work. I joined this forum to listen, watch and learn. I am also a Freemason and as my experience in leather craft progresses, I would like to make a case to carry my masonic apron. If there is another craftsman out there that has a pattern for a masonic apron case, please contact me.

This waist cincher is my first official leather project! The stock is 5/6 ounce single shoulder from Springfield Leather. Dye is two tone black and mahogany Fiebing's oil-based dye, and finished with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene. Edges slicked down with a bit of gum tragacanth and water. Back slicked down by Fiebing's tan kote. 1/4 inch antique nickel plate eyelets from Tandy, and black kangaroo lace from Springfield Leather.

Hey all, I have a tin of Feibing's Saddle Soap (can't remember why I bought it but probably because buying stuff is half the fun for a newbie). Anyway, I have read alot of articles on how saddle soap has a tendency to harm leather. My question is, when and why would I use saddle soap? Is it only harmful to already sealed leather or veg tanned leather? Should I just throw it out? Thanks, Wink

Hey everyone! I have really enjoyed reading this forum lately. Judging by the posts I've read, you all really know what you are talking about and can definitely help me answer this question. I just started making my first belt today. My friend asked me to make on for him. I cut it from an 8-9 oz. double shoulder and am pleased with the strip that I cut. I am just not sure how long the strip should be. My friend has a 29 inch waist. Is there a special method used to size belts? Can anyone help me? Thanks so much. Adam.

New here. Long story short, I am looking for another avenue for artwork/creative release. I have been airbrushing in one way, shape, or form for nearly 40 years. I am a bodyman by trade and also do a lot of metal fabrication. greatly enjoy building and riding motorcycles. I also turn pens too. Most of my family and many friends have been encouraging me to start tattooing but don't want the issues of dealing with the health department. I recently had a custom leather wallet made and after looking it over after receiving it, the process it took to make intrigues me so I started checking out resources on the web which led me here. I am excited to start, not only tooling leather but also in fabricating my own tools and stamps. Thinking of picking up a Tandy deluxe starter set as they have them at my local Hobby Lobby for $70.00. I understand the tools are not the best but I am a firm believer that even a bad tool and do decent work in the right hands. Looking forward to learning as much as I can from the members here.

Hello, I just pulled out my old kit of Pro Dye. I don't know much about dying and only read the bottles for how to use. It said to have a clean surface and apply with douber, cotton swobs or sponge. Then rub down again with a clean clothe to remove dried dye. So I adorned the plastic gloves and took a whack at it with a sponge paint brush. The stuff streaked all over the project and dried up each time ofter only covering 5-8 inches (which happens to be 1 brush stroke). ... you can guess the outcome of doing this. It got really dark and looked pretty bad and I had no control on it. I looked up a ton of sites of how to's and found that you supposed to dampen the leather first... 1st question: Is this true with all dyes? is it supposed to be damp first with all types of dyes in general? (I don't know what my dye is... it don't say but it does say it has alchol in it.) Many places listed a few dyes...but from what I gathered. Theres spirit dyes, oil based dyes, alchol dyes and water based dyes... 2nd Question: Is this true? Is that all of the types or are they not explaining everything or are they mixing things up? So the next day my project was as hard as a rock. So I took water and used a sponge and soaked it to spread out the dyes... it worked a good bit and evened out the blotches. I then took it and flexed it a bunch to help the fibers... after a few hours of flexing it and letting it dry; it felt somewhat better. So I took out saddle soap and drinched it with a sponge and vigrously rubbed it in. Saddle soap is to help restore the leathers natural properties... So I figured it couldn't hurt as this point. After applying it 2 times. It's now 80% better! I kept it moving as well for hours while it dried. So I hope that part helps out others as well if they find them selves stuck like I did. Here's my last question... I have few options for finishes and I'm confused on what to do. 1st... the saddle soap helped alot... do I even bother with adding a finishing protective coat? I'm not sure if it is considered a finish or not...? 2nd: I have the following finishes available and they all seem to be just as good as the other and I have no clue what to use and if 1 of them would screw it up again or whatever. and can I use more than one of them? Here is the list of what I have. -Fiebing's Leather Balm with atom wax (neutral) (The side says: ... is specially formulated for cleaning, softening, polishing and restoring smooth leather, shoes, handbags, boots and sporting goods. Buffs to a rich, satiny gloss. Do not use on fibrous or suede finish leathers. Protect from freezing.) -Carnauba Creame Leather Finish #22012-01 by LF tandy (The side says: Natural Carnuba Creme - Recommended for fast, easy application on all leather goods. Tandy's carnauba Creme providess a natural wax finish that resist finger prints and scuff marks.) -Snow-proof Weatherproofing - Orginal formula (Helps prevent mildew, dry rot, salt stains, and scuff marks. -Fiebings's Saddle Soap - Clean and Polish in one easy Step. This is not a liquid version (Bottom says: Cleans thoroughly while restoring the natural preservative leather oils. ... Cleans leather and lubricates the fibres to prevent brittleness... Maintaining suppleness and strength.

Hello, I just pulled out my old kit of Pro Dye. I don't know much about dying and only read the bottles for how to use. It said to have a clean surface and apply with dauber, cotton swabs or sponge. Then rub down again with a clean clothe to remove dried dye. So I adorned the plastic gloves and took a whack at it with a sponge paint brush. The stuff streaked all over the project and dried up each time after only covering 5-8 inches (which happens to be 1 brush stroke). ... you can guess the outcome of doing this. It got really dark and looked pretty bad and I had no control on it. I looked up a ton of sites of how to's and found that you supposed to dampen the leather first... 1st question: Is this true with all dyes? is it supposed to be damp first with all types of dyes in general? (I don't know what my dye is... it don't say but it does say it has alcohol in it.) Many places listed a few dyes...but from what I gathered. There's spirit dyes, oil based dyes, alcohol dyes and water based dyes... 2nd Question: Is this true? Is that all of the types or are they not explaining everything or are they mixing things up? So the next day my project was as hard as a rock. So I took water and used a sponge and soaked it to spread out the dyes... it worked a good bit and evened out the blotches. I then took it and flexed it a bunch to help the fibers... after a few hours of flexing it and letting it dry; it felt somewhat better. So I took out saddle soap and drenched it with a sponge and vigorously rubbed it in. Saddle soap is to help restore the leathers natural properties... So I figured it couldn't hurt as this point. After applying it 2 times. It's now 80% better! I kept it moving as well for hours while it dried. So I hope that part helps out others as well if they find themselves stuck like I did. Here's my last question... I have few options for finishes and I'm confused on what to do. 1st... the saddle soap helped allot... do I even bother with adding a finishing protective coat? I'm not sure if it is considered a finish or not...? 2nd: I have the following finishes available and they all seem to be just as good as the other and I have no clue what to use and if 1 of them would screw it up again or whatever. and can I use more than one of them? Here is the list of what I have. -Fiebing's Leather Balm with atom wax (neutral) (The side says: ... is specially formulated for cleaning, softening, polishing and restoring smooth leather, shoes, handbags, boots and sporting goods. Buffs to a rich, satiny gloss. Do not use on fibrous or suede finish leathers. Protect from freezing.) -Carnauba Creame Leather Finish #22012-01 by LF Tandy (The side says: Natural Carnuba Creme - Recommended for fast, easy application on all leather goods. Tandy's carnauba Creme provides a natural wax finish that resist finger prints and scuff marks.) -Snow-proof Weatherproofing - Original formula (Helps prevent mildew, dry rot, salt stains, and scuff marks. -Fiebings's Saddle Soap - Clean and Polish in one easy Step. This is not a liquid version (Bottom says: Cleans thoroughly while restoring the natural preservative leather oils. ... Cleans leather and lubricates the fibers to prevent brittleness... Maintaining suppleness and strength.) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hello everybody, I've been thinking of getting into leather working as a hobby, but also to fulfill my obsession with steampunk things. I have no idea where to start though. I would like to develop the skills necessary to make really cool steampunk masks, bracers, belts, hats, etc. but I don't mind starting small. Can you guys help me figure out what I need to get started? What tools should I get and what kind of leather? I do have a fairly low budget, can I get started with less than fifty dollars, or will I have to save up more before I can even start? Thanks in advance