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  1. Nothing wrong with using commercially available patterns, but likely much better to make your own. Using a ready-made pattern certainly good for the newcomer, since you can concentrate on learning the LEATHER. But at some point, most of us will find it more convenient to design our own -- whether that's to save the money spent on "so many" patterns, or to let you customize the work to your taste (or that of your customer). That said, here's a quick "thingy" that may help with that. This discussion concerns a folding case for a small notebook. I had in mind the little "field notes" pocket size notebooks when I wrote this, but it can be applied to other projects of various sizes. Once I receive the actual notebook, I'll likely put up a "ready to go" pattern for those who care to use it, but for now .. some of you who already use those books may want to create your own design... http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/pattern-making/ Much like that old saying, 'give a guy a fish, he's good til, dinner. teach a guyta fish, ya never see 'im agin' . or, something like that, right?
  2. For sale, Leather Secrets by F.O Baird in original box from Tandy. Large format book with 86 pages, many of which fold out one or more times. Instructions and patterns. Selling because the styles aren't really up my alley. Asking $85 including USPS Media Mail shipping to US addresses. Paypal accepted.
  3. gun model, caliber, barrel length $25 per gun, or $2200 for all. $30 shipping for all or $5 shipping for each. any questions contact zack davis at 208 250 6570 ruger Blackhawk 357 6.5" ruger blackhawk 44 7.5" asp fn 40/9 fm-hi power 9 fnx 9 colt python steyr m9 bersa thunder 380 bersa thunder 380 cz 75b cz sp01 9 picotiny rail cz 75 p-07 9 picotiny rail pw arms p-64 9 rhino 2" walter pps 40 walter pk 380 walter ppq walter ppk/s 9 mp 45 sw 629 6" sig p239 sig p250 sig mosquito sig p229 sig p220 sig p230 sig p238 sig 938 sig p250 4.5" sig sp 2340 sig p226 picotiny rail sig p226 1911 springfield micro compact 45 3.25" 1911 colt commander 45 3.5" 1911 colt 5" 1911 springfield a1 45 5" 1911 commander 4.25" 1911 springfield operator 45 5" picotiny rail glock 43 9 glock 42 9 glock 19 9 glock 36 45 glock 26 9 glock 30 glock 30 45 glock 34 9 glock 17 9 Kimber solo carry kahr pm9 kahr cw9 kahr p380 Taurus millennium pt 140 pro 40 Taurus pt 145 pro Taurus judge laser 2" Taurus pt 40 Taurus judge 2" kahr cw 45 Taurus judge 3" smith Wesson gov 2.75" ruger p95 dao lc9 lc9 crimsm trace laser lcp lcp laser ruger sp 101 2.75" ruger speed six 2.5" colt single action 6.75" ruger red hawk 7.5" sr 9c lcp sr40 sr22 ruger red hawk 2.5" ruger gp 100 4" ruger lcr xd 40 tatical sr 45 ruger p90 ruger p89 xd m-9 xd m-40 xdm xds xd-40 sub compact ruger vaquero 5.5" xd-45 acp xd-40 hk-usp 45 hk-45 hk-usp 9/40 hk p30 9 hk usp compact 9 beretta nano mp shield 9 mp 9 beretta tomcat mp 40c smith Wesson 6906
  4. I am looking for a copy of "Al & Ann Stohlmans Personal Patterns Portfolio Volumn 2" which contains patterns for mostly horses and some other ranch-type patterns. Does anyone have one you are willing to sell of know of a place where I could buy or at least get a look at some of the patterns. Thanks, Tobi
  5. Hi, everyone. Once again, bothering you in search of some wisdom. I'm about to start designing a camera bag using the basic design of an old USPS mail bag, adding some modifications to adapt that design to my needs and to change the look a little bit. Mainly the changes will involve a change in size (not as tall and a bit deeper from front to end) to acomodate a padded insert, add a couple of pockets under the flap and a couple of straps on the sides to attach/dettach another set of pockets at will, depending on my carrying needs for the day... it's a bit of a Frankenstein monster from several different ideas I've seen around. I plan on using chrome/veg tanned leather, 4-5 or 5-6 oz, the likes of a Dublin or Chromexcel, but with what I have at hand to buy here in Mexico... (BTW, do you have something to sher about Chahin leather? I might get a good deal from them but I'm still working that out). The design I liked the most to begin with is this one from Satchel & Page. Like I said, I'll be changing a lot of things, but the basic form and idea of this one filled my eye. For starters, I'll change the closing from a single buckle to a double strap, double D-ring fastening, since I found it easier and quicker. Also, I'll add a couple of sets of D-rings at the bottom to carry a blanket, or tripod or whatever that doesn't fit inside the bag. I'll keep the magazine pocket in the back because... well, you never know!! Second of all, I'll change the front face of the base bag to acomodate two pockets more or less to the style of the ONA Brixton, since I find those very handy for keeping my cameras accesories, film, lightmeters, pens, notebooks and other stuff. I love the gusset on this one, so I won't change a thing here (rivets and double seam). I'll just add a couple of straps sewn or riveted onto the gusset (towards the sides and top of the bag) as anchor points for a couple of dettachable pockets for storing lenses, cellphone, whatever... Now, on to the questions about designing this thing. I don't care too much if I miss my target size by 1/4 or 1/2 inch because of the joints. But, since there's going to be two layers of leather at the front and at the back, I was wondering if anyone in here would be kind enough to share some light as to how much I should compensate on the size of the outer layer to fit the one on the inside. Say, if the inner front piece is going to be 14 inches wide from one stitch line to the other, how much should the outer piece be? 1/8" - 1/"4 extra to each side? Like I said, I'll be using leather of about 4-5 or 5-6 oz for this project. Another doubt I have is how far should the stitch be from the edge of the leather. I will use waxed poly thread, 0.040 and I normally mark my stitch line at about 1/8" from the edge. But, since the stitches will be on the side, I have my doubts whether the fact that it's a turned bag with several layers would be too much of a load for such a small edge. One other topic I can't decide yet is whether to use piping or not. If I do it it would be by means of a single narrow strap of the same leather I use for the rest of the bag, showing the cross section of the leather (burnished and all) instead of folding it over itself. I understand piping is used to release some tension out of the bent joints of the project. Is this at least somewhat true? Anyway, I hope I made some sense with all this and to get some ideas as to how to skin this particular cat. Cheers, everybody!
  6. So I just got into leatherworking a week ago, and as usual I got too excited too quickly and ran into a problem. When I was buying leather I accidentally bought way to thick a leather for wallet making (the pattern I use requires .8-1.2, and instead have double or more the required thickness. I have almost two full hides and spent $140, so I'd like your opinion on what I should use it for? As a beginner, what are some good options. I made some earphone holders, and transit card holder but I'd like to make something more worth my time. Thanks everyone! David
  7. I will be teaching SADDLE CONSTRUCTION design and patterning, using concepts that can be applied to other areas of construction--- including holsters, knife sheaths, saddle bags, rifle scabbards, and various cases. There are only a few seats left for both classes; however there are several openings for just the first day. Day 1 is Lecture and Demonstration. I will teach you how to take a sketch of your concept / idea and translate it to a functional design, and then to usable patterns. If you can only attend the first day, you will still go away with all of the hand-outs, notes, and a plan and method. You should be able to go home and create your own patterns after only taking this class. Day 2 is Application---I will help you make your own patterns for your own tree. You will go home with patterns! Call me with questions. 307-272-1881. http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/product.cfm?product=851 http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/product.cfm?product=852
  8. I came across this site in my research. Due to copyright restrictions, I am unable to post the patterns on this website, but they are all available to download for personal use. The designs I found interesting were leather gloves, saddlebags and several stitching horse clamps. They can be found by following the link below. The Long Riders Guild Academic Foundation
  9. For Sale - My collection of floral patterns that I designed for my saddles. They are all original custom designed, based on the Sheridan style, but with some unique flowers and leaves. The patterns are pencil on mylar drafting film, which is heavier than the flimsy stuff that Tandy sells and takes the pencil lead much better. So, it's perfect for transferring to wet leather and can be erased and re-drawn to fit a particular part. There are full carve patterns for the seat, fenders, cantle, rigging and skirts, as well as some spot florals. Most have left and right design as well as the transition design from left to right for the seat. Most were made for round skirts and jocks, but one is for a more square skirt and jocks. Price: The entire bunch for $45 plus shipping. PM or email if interested.
  10. Hi, A friend asked me to make him a nice backpack with a draw string opening on the top with a fold over cover. Could anyone suggest to me where I might look for some patterns that might work? Thanks!
  11. From the album: DonorLeather

    Layed out my pattern and preppeing for tooling

    © 2015 Donor Leather

  12. My name Chris and I am a compulsive hobbyist. I play guitar, mandolin, ukulele, harmonica, and bang a banjo when feeling brave. I also make beer and other alcoholic beverages on a regular basis. I shave with an old fashioned safety razor (double edge) and a straight razor and lather with a badger hair brush. To add my list of manly hobbies, I decided to start leather working to appeal to my need to create. The itch happens when I look at something and say "I can do that!" I have bought a few tools to get started and have run into many learning curve problems that I can't seem to find the answers to after trolling the forums and YouTube videos. I have noticed after dyeing my cheap little thin pieces of vegtan from the local big hobby store that the material is now stiff as a board and curling on the edges...that doesn't help make a nice wallet. What are the proper steps to dyeing a piece of leather that doesn't make it feel like a piece of jerky when it is all said and done? I have been rubbing olive oil on these pieces like crazy to no effect.....but I have soft hands now. Also, I am not sure but it seems to me that I have been losing some size after dyeing (I read about the removal of moisture after dyeing) and can understand that. Should I be accounting for a certain amount of shrinkage? Like a 1/4 of an inch or something? I would like to make some patterns to repeat my work and I am not sure if this something that people take into account for dyeing (and stitching). Having fun but getting frustrated with what I don't know....if there is something that I should be reading to answer these questions, please let me know. I have been digging but not finding the right information. Thanks for any help!
  13. This is a simple technique I use to trace patterns onto my moistened leather. Instead of tracing the patterns to trace paper 1st why not trace it directly onto the leather from the printed pattern. 1st place a piece of food wrap over the moistened leather to prevent the printout from getting wet. 2nd, tape the printout over the area you want to trace the pattern onto the leather. Watch the tutorial to see how I do this. Works perfectly every time and the trace looks really nice. Let me know if it helps you!
  14. Hi everyone A friend of mine recently past away and i've decided to make a leather bound photo album filled with photos of her to her parents. I've got some of her friends choosing pictures and comments to put in it also. What i need help with is a nice boarder for the cover. The idea is a nice floral pattern, however given how important this is i want a really nice pattern and i need it to go just right, so if anyone has a floral boarder pattern or can recommend somewhere that might help, please let me know.
  15. Hello Everyone, I asked this question in another thread, but have yet to receive any responses, maybe someone can assist in this thread. I received a request to make a replacement holster for a Smith & Wesson VE9. Now I've never made a holster before, so this will be my first one and I want to do a great job, but I can't seem to find any patterns for a thumb break for this model gun on line. I'm wanting to do this in either an Avenger style holster or the (pic) link down below. Any Ideas?? Thanks This is similar to what I would like to make: http://www.warriorde...-hand-md-22900/
  16. I am starting two projects for someone (pancake holsters). They both shouldn't be a problem but the one thing that concerns me is that he wants the guns to ride higher than normal. I imagine the highest I can place the rear of the ejection port is at the top of the belt line. One is a Colt Officer 1911 which may be OK but the other is Glock 23 and my concern is the pistol wanting to "fall away" from the body due to the weight of a double stack mag. I plan to use horse hide as the reinforcing piece which should stabilize it more. Does anyone have any suggestions.
  17. Hei! Here are some leather goods from Estonia. I've done this for about a month and fell in love with the craft. I used some traditional baltic patterns and some of my own ideas. Critique would be wery welcome!
  18. Hello Everyone, I asked this question in another thread, but have yet to receive any responses, maybe someone can assist in this thread. I received a request to make a replacement holster for a Smith & Wesson VE9. Now I've never made a holster before, so this will be my first one and I want to do a great job, but I can't seem to find any patterns for a thumb break for this model gun on line. I'm wanting to do this in either an Avenger style holster or the (pic) link down below. Any Ideas?? Thanks This is similar to what I would like to make: http://www.warriorde...-hand-md-22900/
  19. Hello! Let me present to you my third work. My first work were these boots http://leatherworker...showtopic=45616, design Merrell Chameleon Wrap, and the second, running shoes, design Garmont Escape PRO 9.81, on photo bellow. And here shoes numbered 3, with my own design and own logo, which will be discussed here and manufacturing technology, which I would like to share with you. The first thing I began with - design, available materials and furniture. Despite all this, you can correct design subsequently as I did. I began the design with a clean sheet of paper. Sketched a few pictures I settled on this design, considering the design features and attachment parts sequence - this is important , otherwise it will be impossible to attach it properly. It is also important to think about where and how will shape the bend. To improve inflection, I used an extra pair of belt loops on the shoe vamp. Here demonstrated only one of many possible designs of shoes, the rest depends on your imagination. http://i-fotki.info/...031277.jpg.html "By approving the project" could begin. Put all materials on shoe last (except upper material) in the right amount and manner as they would be in the finished shoe. It is necessary to put a thickness of insole and middle sole. For further winding of shoe last, use masking tape 20-25mm wide, wider is not recommended. Masking tape should stick well, but not to be wax outside, otherwise it will be bad stick and when removing the shell it can lose shape. http://i-fotki.info/...031431.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031468.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031491.jpg.html Glue tape needs with a little overlap, preferably without wrinkling. After sticking enough thickness of tape, insert shoe last in the outer sole and outlines the level to the visible part, below which all will hide. http://i-fotki.info/...031619.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031648.jpg.html We should also mark the axial lines, front and rear. Now we can begin to design. Draw is best with conventional ballpoint pen, using gentle pressure and instead of the eraser, use pieces of masking tape. Underway, you can change the design somewhat, if in dimension will not like something. Since the right and left side is not quite the same, move all lines using vellum, for example, you will not succeed. Help you centerlines and tailor measuring tape. After completion, you must draw harder all the necessary lines, to avoid confusion. http://i-fotki.info/...031709.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031815.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031845.jpg.html Using sharp knife, making slit at axial lines and lower edge, to divide into two parts. By dividing, cut along the contour, including the toe cup as the most convex part. Parts became more flat, but they still can not be cut, they must be glued on thick paperboard, while leveling and cropping. More detailed process describes here http://www.youtube.c... for shoes&sm=3 http://i-fotki.info/...032008.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032046.jpg.html Now is necessary to make slits on lines for creating patterns. http://i-fotki.info/...032207.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032235.jpg.html Creating patterns is most responsible for connection all parts. Using the main patterns make all external parts. It is necessary to consider all overlaps, overmeasure and mark centerlines. You should also specify the right and left sides, as well as the front to each side. http://i-fotki.info/...032285.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032313.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032340.jpg.html After making all patterns, you can begin to cut material. Also note, if were made ​​some amendments to the upper, it is necessarily to make them on patterns. http://i-fotki.info/...032387.jpg.html I have a regular sewing machine (Singer copy), therefore the manufacturing technology reminds classic shoes, where is no need of a post sewing machine. I made some improvements for greater sewing accuracy and larger thickness. I replaced original hand driven mechanism and attached own lever directly on the wheel. Instead of three stitches per one revolution, now it makes one (used for hand sewing of large thickness). Undergone revision and presser foot, making it narrower and shorter, increased downforce, improved visibility and accuracy. Needle used conventional 110, although it is better to use reinforced for leather, thread polyester 40. http://i-fotki.info/...032557.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032583.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032604.jpg.html Before sewing, machine needs to be adjusted for a specific material thickness and test on a separate piece. My primary material is haberdashery suede 1-1.2 mm thick. http://i-fotki.info/...032654.jpg.html Should start with the basic parts, on which is necessary to mark those details, which will be sewn first. Because of the sliding effect and high downforce of the presser foot, one material slides relative to another, I found a simple solution for this problem, parts before sewing, I gluing together after what, concentrating on precision stitching. http://i-fotki.info/...032713.jpg.html Since suede is not for footwear, however, it is strong enough, to provide proper rigidity of some parts I’m using 1mm thick cotton fabric. http://i-fotki.info/...032779.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032806.jpg.html Having measured braid using patterns, glue and sew them, then you can sew the side part. Do the same with the second half and then sew together both parts. Stitch on these parts is 2.5-3mm. http://i-fotki.info/...032978.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033039.jpg.html After receiving a single piece (upper), it’s ready to make a heel cap. Since I did not have a proper shoe last (proper shoe last on pictured below), I made a separate billet for forming the heel, but with a normal shoe last is done directly on it. Cut two pieces of cotton fabric, stretching and gluing together with SAR 306. When dried, transfer lines with pattern and cut. http://i-fotki.info/...033091.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033129.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033381.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033431.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033457.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033479.jpg.html Then glue it on heel in folded position on shoe last and sew it with stitch 2.5-3mm. http://i-fotki.info/...033535.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033559.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033593.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033616.jpg.html Now you can begin with layer over the heel of polyurethane foam and lining. There are no patterns for these parts, so lay out on the shoe last, blank sheet of paper, draw around the top and cut. There no corrections for polyurethane foam, but lining must be recalculated - 1mm suede + 3mm polyurethane foam + 3mm wool interlayer + 4mm lining allowance = minimum 11mm total must be added to the upper contour, on which will be sewn lining. This is necessary to ensure that all will twist neat. http://i-fotki.info/...033673.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033705.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033735.jpg.html Sew need right by the polyurethane foam, for smooth edge, stitch 1.8-2mm. For insulation using natural wool, material thickness about 3 mm, the same material used on the first boots. Gluing with SAR 446, applying thin layer on wool and suede. The photo shows masking tape, 5-8 mm to the edge, where wool layer will be needed to cut. http://i-fotki.info/...033796.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033827.jpg.html Then gluing lining with SAR 446, also applying thin layer. http://i-fotki.info/...033883.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033921.jpg.html All excess need to be cut and sewn, on that edge, where the masking tape was. At this stage, the shoe begins to appear. As can be seen on the photo, it keeps form well, but the final forming will be at the very end. http://i-fotki.info/...033977.jpg.html When the upper is ready, next part you need to continue - tongue. There also no patterns, but you can estimate the length using upper, the width of the tongue I took from my sport shoes - 100mm. Gap width in the shoe vamp is 40mm, respectively adding 6mm allowance, will be enough for sewing. On a sheet of paper draw everything and make pattern, cut the mesh and lining without any overmeasure. Put some polyurethane foam (about 3mm) on the tongues top (for thickness and strength) and sew together mesh with lining face to face. Then glue mesh with wool layer and extroversion. http://i-fotki.info/...034032.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034054.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034191.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034218.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034262.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034286.jpg.html Cut a piece of suede, glue and sew. Mark the braid and sew. http://i-fotki.info/...034383.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034406.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034426.jpg.html Connect together tongue and upper with clearance 40mm using SAR 446 and then sew together stitch to stitch. Mark border of the toe cap on upper and glue with SAR 446 along the edge, as well as toe cap, connect and sew, stitch is 2.5-3mm. http://i-fotki.info/...034718.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034749.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034859.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034891.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034918.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034939.jpg.html Now put the upper on the shoe last, I leave allowance in 20mm for bend under the shoe last, only for upper, side parts, heel and toe cup should be in the slice with the bottom. After toke the upper, cut out the toe reinforcement from cotton fabric, glue with SAR 306, tighten in place. Once again, make sure that upper is in the right position, remove the staples and glue. Cut off all suede relief and glue suede center part. When it's all ready, it's time to form the shoe. We need to warm all shoe parts, that has inside cotton fabric and tap with a hammer, to complete forming. After that, shoe will keep the shape for a along time. http://i-fotki.info/...035595.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035647.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035683.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035713.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035741.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035767.jpg.html Basically shoe are ready for gluing outer sole, but I would like to stamp on it own logo. To do this, take a picture of the shoe from the side, where logo will be, open the vector program Corel Draw, import photo, create a logo in scale and print on plain paper. Take sticky film Oracal, and cut out the logo with sharp knife, slot only to the film substrate. Unstick from the film unnecessary parts and glue masking tape over all parts. Cut and stick the logo in its place. Carefully remove the masking tape, leaving all separate pieces in place. Glue around with masking tape to avoid smudge of shoe. Preparation is completed and we are ready for rubber coating. As rubber coating I’m using SAR 306 and 30-40% of aluminum powder (for metallic effect). Using brush, apply thin layer and let it dry for a couple of hours. With precision knife cut glue on film edges for smoothness of the logo edges without rips. Due to a thin layer of coating it obtained fairly resistant to damage. http://i-fotki.info/...035832.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035873.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035901.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035924.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035950.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035974.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035995.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036020.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036039.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036068.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036089.jpg.html Finishing stage, gluing the outer sole. Left the upper on shoe last and insert it in outer sole, outline with pen about 1mm below the level of the outer sole. Apply SAR 306 on surface, coat over line and let it dry. The outer sole is made from thermoplastic and I need degrease it with special composition Satreat and only then glue it. When the glue dries, it does not stick at all, conversely it's slides. Insert shoe in the outer sole, heat bottom side with hairdryer and press for a few seconds. Then you can easy heat side parts and tap with hammer. By this way it’s easy to make clean connection between upper and outer sole. http://i-fotki.info/...036284.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036312.jpg.html After a few hours, you can remove shoe from the shoe last. It remains only to make insole. For insole I am using - 2mm thick polyurethane foam, 3mm wool interlayer and 3mm lining. http://i-fotki.info/...036371.jpg.html Glue the insole on its place and do all the same with the second shoe and enjoy your work. When placing this article on other sites link to this forum is required. Sorry for not exact terminology and not perfect english. Good luck!
  20. Hello Everyone, I received a request to make a replacement holster for a Smith & Wesson VE9. Now I've never made a holster before, so this will be my first one and I want to do a great job, but I can't seem to find any patterns for a thumb break or this model on line. I'm wanting to do this in either an Avenger type holster or the (pic) link down below. Any Ideas?? Thanks This is similar to what I would like to make: http://www.warriordepot.com/bianchi-7935-speedbreak-holster-black-size-13-right-hand-md-22900/
  21. Hello all, New at all this and I have looked with no luck at all as to where I can but some traceing patterns revolving around the motorcycle industry. I have just bought a new Indian motorcycle and what to tool my distressed leather saddlebags and seat backs All or and info would be appreciated. Thank you in advance bcflyguy aka Neil
  22. I am just getting back into leather after 30 years of not doing anything with it. Using the internet is a new thing to find patterns and information on it. If anyone can help by sending me links to resources that would be greatly appreciated.
  23. Has anyone seen this book and know where I can get a copy? Amazon has none. http://www.amazon.com/Ann-Stohlman-Personal-Patterns-Portfolio/dp/B000M1BJ3E/ref=sr_1_22?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1389311011&sr=1-22&keywords=al+stohlman
  24. Edited: Use this link https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-4Qszr7V8BTZ285RFVEQVdxNVU/preview?pli=1 I have FREE patterns for 17 purses, handbags, and other bags. Also a backpack, laptop bag, a baseball cap, bushman hat, fedora, and a newsboy cap. Oh, and a really cool motorcycle sissy bar bag (I’m planning to do this one first). Patterns are in PDF form (which I converted from DXF files I found on the Web), so they'll need to be sized. The patterns pieces are labeled in Spanish and I am not fluent in the language but I don’t see that as a showstopper. It’s pretty easy to tell what the pieces are. I will share these patterns with anyone who is interested, and I’d love to see the end products here on the forum. Also, if anyone is willing to help me convert Spanish to English, just let me know and I'll work on updating the files. Please use this link to the files: Broken link https://docs.google....Z285RFVEQVdxNVU https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-4Qszr7V8BTZ285RFVEQVdxNVU/edit Thanks, Deb Latest link: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-4Qszr7V8BTZ285RFVEQVdxNVU/preview?pli=1
  25. hi i want to do motorcycle bags i have some ideas but i need patterns for true measurements of solo bags and saddlebags. does anyone have? thanks
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