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Found 54 results

  1. Hello, I am posting on here for some advice and help. I am very new to working with leather and am hoping to be able to fix this old saddle and get it back to functional light use. I am wondering if anyone has any recommendations for replacing the fender and what kind of leather to use. I've seen the new replacement fenders that you can buy already cut and ready, but I'm not sure if maybe that is the best route to go? I would like to get it looking as close to the other fender, if possible, but it is not completely necessary. I have not tooled before and am uncertain that I would be able to match the tooling pattern. Anyway, I was hoping to use it as a project learning opportunity. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
  2. I have a friend who has an old western style gun belt and wants to know if I can take off the old cracked lining of the inside of the belt and replace it. I am fairly new to leatherwork, I've made some wallets, keychains, leatherman cases. But I haven't messed with lining too much especially the removal of old lining. Once I get the old stitches out what is the best way to remove the old lining without damaging the belt?
  3. Greetings all! I'm a newbie and am learning so much from these forums. Thank you to all who contribute. I am currently repairing an old baseball glove with several more in the wings. The current one I'm working on ad some embroidery work on the thumb which I have successfully removed. Before moving on to dying it and reconstructing it to its original state, I'd like to fill those small embroidery holes. The people at Tandy told me to just condition the heck out of it....which I knew wouldn't solve the problem completely. I've seen some repair compounds / leather fillers out there on youtube and the like, but I am wondering if there is a simpler solution that someone has been successful with. I've seen one contributor recommend Magic Mender.....but I guess I'm just hoping that there is something a little more readily available or a hack that works just as well. Thanks in advance for your help!
  4. I've been working with an older Adler 69 machine to do some low-volume sewing of small leather goods out if medium-weight leathers. I purchased the machine locally about two years ago for about $2250 all in with tax and local delivery, etc. So far I've been less than satisfied with it. Here's a summary of the various issues I've had (you can assume that I've tried all all of the self-help I could think of such as needle sizes/types, different leathers, adhesives, threads, threading, cleaning, oil, etc.) : - Thread shredding: needle thread is shedding as I sew. It gets worse the longer I sew without stopping. In the worst cases it breaks. I've tried replacing the thread with high-end, brand-new #69 and it still does it. That last mechanic that I had take a look could not figure it out. - Bobbin thread tangles sometimes when starting or stopping stitching. - Stitch quality is inconsistent. Sometimes I get nice stitches (usually after I've been visited by a mechanic), sometimes the tension seems to waver causing needle thread loops to stand out on the bottom side (this is a more recent problem that I haven't been able to resolve on my own). - When I insert the bobbin into the bobbin case and pull on the thread, the bobbin thread seems to have inconsistent tension, sticking and releasing. I can't see or feel any burrs or debris. No mechanic has mentioned this before. I don't know when it started. - When it is actually sewing well, it doesn't handle sewing over transitions of material thickness very well. This has been the case from day 1, as I mentioned it to the sales guy in the showroom before taking it home. We thought it was a needle problem at the time. It will often skip a stitch or change stitch length when going over a particularly aggressive seam. This was surprising to me, as I've seen videos of less-expensive machines handling variations in thickness very well. - Deep scratches have appeared on my aluminum bobbins, looking as if they have been marred by a needle. This might be more recent. ---------------- And then are some things about the design of the machine that just sort of bother me: - Would be great to have a larger bobbin - I would love to have the presser foot operate by a knee lift rather than a dedicated pedal. - Overall, the machine feels old and clunky. Are newer machines more responsive/fluid to operate or is this the nature of the beast when dealing with walking foot machines? I have an older singer 591 machine for garment sewing that is a dream to work with. ----------------- I am relocating my studio in a couple of weeks out of NYC to rural NJ, where there will be a much smaller pool of mechanics who will be able to come service the machine. That said, it's hard to tell if the mechanics I've hired in the city have really been any good. Does anyone think this machine is fixable? I purchased it because a) it seemed to sew well in the showroom and 2) I really wanted to buy a non-Chinese machine. Now that my business has picked up a little I'm thinking of trying to sell this Adler before I leave the city and upgrading to something more reliable/fun. But looking at the options, if I'm not interested in a Chinese machine, I'm not really seeing any used Adlers or Jukis in the $3-5k range for sale right now locally. Ideally, the machine that I purchased originally would just work as its supposed to! But I'm worried that I purchased a lemon and it can't ever really do what I want it to for a long period of time. Please let me know if you guys have any advice. Thanks!
  5. I finally found time to install the new (original Juki!) Thread Release Guide part on my Tacsew T1563, a Juki LU-563 clone. I made a video to celebrate the occasion and document the process. Since the part is somewhat deeply nested and connected in the head, I had to take apart and put back together a good portion of the head, including removing the presser foot bar and various connected parts. So the video might be useful even if you don't need to replace that particular part. My thread release guide works as intended and the manual foot lift movements no longer catch and annoy every time you lift the presser foot. The new part itself was cheap at $7.33, especially for an original Juki part. When I checked, ABC Sewing Machine was the only U.S. vendor who had this part (Juki Part Number B14602460A0) in stock AND listed on their online ordering system. So props to them for that. So here's the video for your viewing pleasure and edutainment:
  6. onathread

    Consew 227R

    Hello to all! I have a Consew 227R, and was wondering if anyone knows how to get the presser foot regulating screw back "on" again? Yes, LOL, I loosened it too much, (it came off) and can't seem to get it to screw back in/on again. Frankly, I can't really seem to tell a big difference when it's tightend or loosened anyway. Does it have a "big" impact on the foot pressure, or does it just make slight adjustment? This machine is fairly new to me, so please be patient with me! LOL Thank you in advance for any suggestions or help! )
  7. I have two western saddles that I purchased used that have a similar type of damage. Apparently the previous owners used a saddle rack that was peaked rather than rounded and when the saddle was pulled off the rack the underside of the seat was torn, exposing galvanized metal underneath. I don't expect this will ever have an effect on the function or life of the saddle but it looks terrible. Any thoughts on how to repair this? I was initially thinking about moistening and stretching the ends back together and just stitching it but there is some of the original material missing now. I have never built a saddle or disassembled one to repair it.
  8. I am making a stitching horse ready for use, but I am perplexed about how to re-align the jaws. They are off about 1/2 inch. I am reluctant to remove the hinges and reposition them. Anyone run into this and have an idea how to best approach repair? Stitching horse is in excellent shape but for this. I have other pictures if it would help.
  9. One of my shell cordovan hides was stored with some papers against it. Four years later, I peel the papers off and the surface is gritty feeling and some color has come off. Is there a way to restore this?
  10. My Ferdco dropped a screw that is located holding side-connecting-bar to presser-bar-lift-link of foot lift components. This disconnection happens to be right by the upper tension post on my machine. Not sure if the screw went inside the machine /behind the face plate/ and is now waiting to wreck damage inside that housing. But as I'm studying this, wondering where to get a new hinge screw to replace the missing one, I'm wondering to myself if it is lodged someplace inside that cover. And then I see the thread-releasing-plate which is part of the tension post components is slipped out of position. My manual does not show what I need to see...like where that tension release plate should line up relative to the upper tension disk. I'm overwhelmed. With orders to get out. And the only one working on Black Friday? And ideas about who sells parts to replace the missing hinge screw is appreciated greatly. And ideas how to talk to an expert on making these repairs, well, greatest appreciation doesn't cover it. Thanks, Lisa Picture shows pressed bar lift link at is point of detachment and tread releasing plate. I think I have to go into the machine behind the face plate so YIKES!
  11. Hello All, Please help save my Round knife. On the advice a neighbour I sent my Round Knife to have the brass ferule fixed. Please view the image of the result - they have ruined the knife. It is my favourite tool and have been using it for the last 20 years. Is it worth saving or repairing and if so how and where? Ideally UK based but willing to send further afield if needed. I believe that the newer versions of the same knife are not so good in quality (Osborne Round knife). Any advise welcome. #heartbroken! Kindest regards JCUK
  12. Hi group. I have been playing with leather for many years now, off and on. I have a decent grasp of what I'm doing, within the perimeters that I'm working. That said, being only self-taught there is much I still do not know, especially concerning restoring old leather. My Sister brought me her handbag to see if I could clean it up for her. It had been in storage for many years and looked like it. After a full bottle of 'Fiebings liquid Glycerin saddle soap', some "Lexol Ph cleaner", several warm water rinses and a couple of rags (now destroyed) later, my rag stopped coming back caked with brown "gunk". I have no idea what I was cleaning off, an old dye paste wax? Years of crud accumulation? Both? Finally the leather started to look like I was making progress. I used some Lexol conditioner on it last night, so the color has gone dark. I assume it will fade in days!? (I (now) know that "before" pics would have gone a long way in helping to better understand where I was and where I am now, but it's too late for that now, so instead I offer pics of the situation as of now.) Here's a couple of pics showing the spots I am questioning. 1) The 'shiny' spots I assume are an old finish? What is it and how do I removed it? 2) Once I get it cleaned of the old finish I assume it will look like the areas that are now dull/leather looking? 3) At this point what do I do? Do I put more conditioner on it, and then put a coat of light dye on it? 4) Now for the "finish". What kind of finish would be best for this bag? I am partial to a natural finish, but I want it to have some protection. 5) The last image is of a scuffed area inside the bag. Can this be sanded with sand paper? Also the handles are rough. Do they need more oils? Could they be sanded smoothe? I recently read somewhere that that was an option in some cases. If anybody here would/could help me figure this out, I would be ever grateful.
  13. So I've gone and learned the hard way about ordering a sewing machine online... It's an Adler 169 which has been lengthened by an engineer. I won this baby off ebay and everything looked good, but it was damaged in shipping. Most of the knobs are bent or broken. I've ordered a new thread tensioner plate and will need to braze back on the end of the thread uptake leaver (if that works!) However, the worst of it seems to be that the end of the main shaft at the top of the machine is bent, right at the hand wheel (which may be distorted also). I think the whole thing was dropped on its end. Anyway, so my plan is to take this shaft out and have a machine shop straighten it for me, which apparently is a thing machine shops can do. Unfortunately, i'm having a hard time disassembling the thing. I'm also worried about reassembly. I know that I should be taking this to a professional, but I'm handy and don't live too close to anyone. Does anyone have experience in removing these things? I'm marking everything with a sharpie in an effort to not disturb the timing. Also, Does anyone know just how necessary the adjuster screw in the end of the rod is? Any advice would be soo greatly appreciated!! - Taylor
  14. So I recently came by a Singer 111W155 that was used in a production environment. This is my venture into the world of industrial sewing machines and know very little about them. That being said, I’m pretty excited to get this machine back up and running. It did not come with a table, motor, bobbin winder, pedal, presser foot lever, and I’m sure several other things I’m overlooking. The presser foot lever has been removed and there seems to be some type of compressed air system in place. I’m not sure if there’s a way to manually lift the foot via a screwdriver but I would like to restore that functionality. If possible, add the knee presser lever I’ve seen on a few tables too. I’m guessing getting it cleaned up is the first step. I was thinking I would give it a kerosene bath followed by some copious oiling. Is there a specific oil these old Singer machines like? Then I need to look into a servo motor, table, and all the missing attachments. Looks like there are a few service manuals floating around the internet. Should go a long ways in helping me understand just what I'm looking at. http://navyaviation.tpub.com/14218/index.htm Here are some pictures: Front of Machine Model + Serial Number Presser Foot Back of Machine & Cut Wires Gearing + Timing Belt
  15. Hi! It is my first post in this forum and I must say that my english is not perfect as I am a french Canadian. I recently bought these 2 old Pfaff industrial sewing babies. One is a Pfaff 335 still in good condition and the other is a 335-17, the owner said that the second one was for stuffing (rembourage) and is no good anymore, only for the parts. I am new to the ''industrial mechanic'' and I have such a tricky problem with the first one. I would be very thankfull if someone would give me a hint. The problem is simple. I need to change the needle bar. The owner gave me a new bar. As you can see, his thoot is broken and I need to replace it. I successfully found the screw that hold it tight and unscrew it but there is still a problem. The ''bobbin case holder'' at the end of the cylinder arm blocks his way out. I have been looking for a way to get it off (google had no answer for me, it looks like nobody ever broke this part before). I've been trying to undestand how it is attached by doing the same process on my second machine and it seems that these parts are directly fixed to the shaft on the inside... My question is : How do you take it off without damaging it? (Red circle) Any awnser would be very appreciate! Gabriel
  16. Hello, I am looking for someone who can repair zippers on a pool stick case that is made of alligator skin. It is my husband's and he has tried to get it repaired before, but with no luck. He has not found anyone with the skill to be able to take on the project. Please contact me if you are, or if you know of someone who is, a leatherworker who can work with exotic skins like alligator. I don't have a picture of the case currently, but can provide one if needed. Thanks!
  17. I found this old leather hatchet cover from my grandfathers house (who recently passed). As you can see from the photos, it looks as though it has some water damage. I Photoshoped his name out with the red just for posting purposes; he wrote his name with a black sharpie on the leather. My grandpa was a huge part of my life and I loved him very much. I want to keep this leather hatched cover as a reminder of him but Im not sure if I should try and repair it in any way. I want to keep it in its original state as much as possible. Does anyone have any ideas or advice?? Thanks!
  18. Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum and although i've been reading it frequently over the last two years this is my first post. After much hand-sewing of leather items, i've taken the plunge and bought last month a singer 29K3 dating back from 1905. The machine was quite rusty and battered but I didn't pay much for it either. I have to mention this is my first sewing machine ever. I've been looking for replacement parts but although they are plenty for later models, I can't seem to find stuff for older machines and am not sure whether the newer parts are compatible. I have successfully cleaned, repaired, adjusted, soldered a number of things and the machine will now stitch more or less consistently. I am however left with three issues and am happy to collect guidance from the educated on these : 1. On the back of the slide part of the "round ring" is a small roller. This one is worn (faceted), and the groove in the drive pulley may be worn as well. I can drill out the roller and replace it with a custom machined one of suitable diameter. How much play between the roller and the groove is acceptable? Would a replacement part be compatible with this machine? 2. The needle isn't perfectly aligned with the hole in the shuttle cover plate. the needle is a little bit to the left, as if the lower arm of the machine was too long. If the leather is thick and causes the needle to deflect a little bit under load, it can hit the plate and break the needle. A previous owner has chamfered the hole on one side of the plate, in order for the needle to get back in the hole. Is there any adjustment I can make to correct this? 3. The shuttle was missing when I got the machine, I had to source one but am not perfectly happy with the result. I may or not have the correct part, but there is some play around the shuttle, even if the small spring in the shuttle carrier is present. As a result, a clacking noise is sometimes heard from that area, and I wonder if any replacement part better suited to my machine would be availables. I welcome any advice on these topics, with many thanks in advance.
  19. Here's the story of a Singer 29-4 sewing machine repair, for a machine that is skipping stitches. I'm writing it for someone who follows after me that may not have much background in repairs, and may have a machine as worn out as mine, so descriptions are as simple as I can make them. I've been trying to figure out why the Singer 29-4 machine skips stitches. I was given this lovely old industrial treadle machine, and except that it moved a little stiffly, it mostly sewed ok. It only rarely skipped stitches, until the day I oiled it. No kidding... the old gunky oil must have been all that was holding some of these parts in alignment, as after oiling it moved really smoothly, but began skipping stitches like mad! What a shock! I didn't even know this was possible! Now this machine has seen a lot of wear, the insignias are completely worn off it, and it's been used to sew leather most of it's life. It dates at 1907 I discovered when I checked in with it's Singer serial number on their site. I wanted it to sew right. I messed with tension hoping that might help, but no help was had there. I verified that the needle was right for the machine, and the thread weight was right for the needle, the needle positioning was correct and then in frustration started the search for the manuals, the repair books, support forums, blogs, any place I could glean information. (many thanks to Wizcrafts for his postings on this machine) I got one good lead that the almost invisible black T shaped flat spring on the left side of the needle bar just below where it enters the body of the machine, was likely to cause skipped stitches if it was loose. Mine was loose, and with high hopes and a gentle hand, hoping against hope that I wouldn't break that little guy, I remedied that problem... but no... still a lot of skipping, big areas of an inch or longer would be left un-stitched. Feeling frustrated, I searched more. This led me to examine the timing, and after a lot of work with it, I realized that there are not more variations in how it can be set up... you simply cannot move the teeth on the rack to one side or the other without the rack either hitting the stops on the metal gear below the bobbin case, or failing to engage the second gear properly, if you move them even one tooth in either direction. Someone suggested that this placement of the timing rack could be changed, but on my machine, there appears to me to be only one way to set it up. If that gear below the bobbin case went all the way round in a circle with it's teeth, you could maybe move the rack over or back a tooth, but since it has only 3 teeth, when you slide the rack over, it either hits metal at one end of it's travel, or the second rack hits metal on the other end of it's travel. I took photos of the correct positioning, and will save them... not sure how to include them on this forum, but will try to imbed them into this message. For an inquisitive person, the timing racks and gears don't want to be looked at unless you first remove the machine from it's base and tip it back flat, before taking off that cover under there. Otherwise, all pieces will be on the floor, and you won't have clue where they went. So next I looked for slop in the bobbin action, and there was plenty there, nearly 1/8 inch of slop. I thought I might have to deal with new parts underneath, the gears and the racks that drive the bobbin shuttle, however I was hoping that it might not require this. So after more reading I also thought to check the amount of play in the needle bar. It had some side to side play of about 1 millimeter at the tip of the needle. I discovered that the second screw on the bottom of the needle bar, actually detaches a chunk off the bottom of the needle bar that holds the needle. All my newer machines were one solid piece down there, but this guy is made in two pieces,and the screw that doesn't hold the needle but is right near there on the needle bar, will allow you to position the needle side to side in relation to the bobbin shuttle. You can get it close enough to rub the bobbin shuttle case, which is too close, and then back it off just a hair and tighten it down. When adjusted properly, it appeared to send the eye of the needle right down beside the hook, ... but still the machine skipped stitches. Drat! Back to the homework of searching and reading. The real kicker for me turned out to be when I found the tip to examine how much up and down play was in the needle bar. I had a friend hold the hand wheel steady, and found that when I pushed up firmly on the needle bar, it went up maybe about 3/16ths of an inch, clearly way more than it should. I reasoned that when the needle hit a stiff piece of leather, instead of coming through, that slop would cause a serious delay in the downward progress of the needle, and the thread going through the eye of the needle would come down too late to catch on the passing bobbin shuttle hook during sewing. Even though it looked good in terms of placement when just moving it through it's paces without any leather in the machine, once the leather was there it would throw off the timing .... hence the skipping of stitches would only show when under load. Some information about the little silver guide wheel that travels in the track on the inside of the hand wheel led me to examine that, but it didn't seem overly loose, just a little bit worn. Upon closer examination I found that the big knuckle with it's attached pin which is at the top of the needle bar, and which fits into the end of the long rocking arm which comes across the top of the machine, had worn an oblong hole, and that pin was very, very loose in that hole. (I think the name of that part is Needle bar piston joint, and I am certain it is part number 8588 on plate 1032 of the old parts list.) I considered replacing the part, but what if the problem lay in the hole that the part rides in? A close look revealed that all the years of pounding through leather had caused excessive wear on the top of the hole where that pin slid in and out. I noticed the pin movement in and out was only about half an inch so I thought I'd try a shim in there to take up the slack, experimentally. I made a shim of brass, using brass shim stock that was .005 inch thick. Shim stock metal can be bought at most good hardware stores, and mine came in a little sheet of 4x6 metal. This shim I just cut with scissors about 3/8 inch wide and a couple inches long. I curved it a little bit so it would follow the curvature of the sliding pin, then with some futzing, I worked it into the gap at the top of the pin, (right there below the take up lever that guides your thread), sliding it gradually into the gullied out hole along the top of the pin until it was in there about 3/4 of an inch deep. I tried gently turning the hand wheel to see if it would stay in place, and it was somewhat daunting because the movement of the arm on the pin was a little stiff, however I put some pressure on it and after a moment it seemed to slide ok. The in and out movement had to be repeated a few times, and I also had to use a little screw driver tip to try to smooth the shim out over the top of the pin right up to the knuckle and make a sharp 90 degree bend upward in it to get the excess length out of the way. I eventually found I could fold it back over the top of the big black rocker arm, and actually tape the excess onto the rocker arm, so it was held in place, while the pin slid in and out below it. Being as my machine is black, I used black electrical tape, just for appearances sake. I'd hate to admit to anyone that my machine was held together by duct tape!... though to be sure that would have worked perfectly. Here's a photo of the shim folded back and taped in place... if it comes through on this forum. The movement of the arm was stiff for about three or 4 turns of the hand wheel as it flattened out the shim stock inside the hole against the pin, then it settled into a smooth movement, and I tested the needle bar up and down movement again. Almost no movement now... oh boy, let's try to sew something! I rethreaded the machine, took up the leather again, a double thickness of 1/8 inch leather, and started stitching, first by hand gently with the hand wheel, then got my courage up and used the treadle. It was catching properly! Nothing I could do would make it Not catch properly. I sewed little circles, I went all over the place! I adjusted the top and bottom tension... perfect! So even though there still is the side to side slop of about 1mm in the needle bar, and even though there is still a lot of slop in the shuttle movement, that one shim has completely set this old machine to rights, and I can sew again! I can't say how long that will last, and as I am only an occasional leather worker, making my own sandals and work boots, I hope it will last well enough to keep me going. What was significant to me was that this One shim was the real area where it was important to take up the slop. No doubt more could be done with further parts replacement, but for those on a sensitive budget, it's nice to know that it might be possible to resuscitate an old machine with just this one very inexpensive fix. This success made me really happy!! I'd be happy to send photos to any who might find it helpful. Roberta (in Northern Idaho) as i reach the end of this post i notice there is a place to add photos. Both the timing photos are correct, one is just at a different position in the shuttle rotation. the other photo of the completed shim job.
  20. OK, new to this...dyeing has been a challenge. But I stacked roper wallets to ship them and the ID holder pulled color. Is there any way to fix these? I have tried Acetone and re-dye but the spots still show. I have no problem totally re-dyeing but afraid to go that far. Otherwise I have to re-make them all. They have Fiebling antique stain as dye color. Then Tuff Kote to seal.
  21. Hi there, and thanks for reading. I recently got a Bellino Messenger bag. It works great mechanically. Upon arrival I applied mink oil to give the leather a nicer feel and to preserve it (to the best of my knowledge). There were several types of leather use in the construction of the bag. The thicker, tougher leather used for gussets and reinforcements reacted well to the oil. The softer, silkier, thinner leather used on pockets and the front and back faces of the bag did not react well (I'm not actually sure these parts are leather, though the bag is advertised as 100% leather, leather from what animal, I am not so sure about). The dye on this thinner leather is now coming off after the mink oil application! I let the oil set for about a week in hopes the oil would be absorbed more and still, the same problem persists. A wipe from a dry paper towel shows show the dye is slowly being removed from the bag. Since the oil caused the dye to come off, I would think the dye is oil-based and not alcohol based like the dye in the thicker bits of leather. Images detailing the damage are attached. Is there a way to restore and seal the dye on my bag? Thanks again for reading.
  22. A friend has an old lead that got chewed and asked me to repair it. It is not one I've made. Any suggestions for repairing? I can figure out back braiding each end together, but how do I shorten up the core without causing a knot under the braid? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks, Barb
  23. As part of buying out a business I inherited a couple of different machines that don't fit my business model. I have here below an Auto Soler used to attach uppers and soles together on boots, shoes, and other items. It is located in the Greater Seattle Area and is ready for immediate pick-up, or delivery (nominal fees) within 2 hours of Seattle. Otherwise you will need to work with me to make arrangements to have it shipped. Unit is just over 5' 10" tall and about 12" square at the base and weight an estimated 200 lbs. (I can move it pretty easily by myself by walking it across the shop floor). I am asking $900 for it, but feel free to make an offer. Not pictured and to be posted soon: * Continental 8 boot nailer * Landis 12 E (yes and E model) All of these machines are in working condition and am finishing up maintenance of the 12E. If interested in any of these machines please drop an email. Images are too large at the moment so working on resizing them. Will post them soon.
  24. I was working on a gunbelt and slipped while cutting a border cut. Is there anyway to help hide the mistake or do I just live with it? It is about a 2" cut .
  25. So this is what happened to my poor sofa when it met the front door handle! It didn't even make a noise, it took someone to actually *see* the damage to stop the process, and keep the entire panel from being ripped through. But, I'm staying positive, mostly because this is the way it looks right now, when (almost) assembled (It's a 3 piece sectional) However, I would like to triage this just a bit. It's not of CRITICAL IMPORTANCE that my fix not show at ALL, but of course minimizing the visibility of the fix would be nice. Also, trying to halt additional damage due to normal usage is on my mind. I took a few more photos to make it as close as possible to "You've been in the room and seen the problem yourself": The edges of the rip *can* be held together with some help: The foam inside is pretty squooshy, and can be displaced: Here's a look at the backing and structural stuff inside. (Obviously, this is NOT an artisan piece, but a factory furnishing. MOR, to be specific.) Here's a look at the factory stitching And a couple of views of the thickness of this leather: AKA: Not very thick. At all. And apparently it rips like butter. So, what do you think I should do? I have some seamstress experience, but not much, and no leatherworking experience at ALL. My husband even mentioned "Duct Tape" but I don't think that has to be the only solution, haha. The leather seems so rippable, that sewing it back up sounds like a dubious process, the thread might rip through the material as readily as anything else. But I can't be suuuuper sure of that. I'd be fine with a glue-type solution, or even a patch-type solution, but I don't know ANYTHING about them. But I'm not afraid of them, I feel capable of following instructions. INPUT PLEASE! =D Another problem this sofa has, is that it smells a little teeny bit like dog, and is probably filthy, but I can't see it through the brown. I know I need to get a leather cleaner and buff all that off. I've watched a few "How to use leather cleaner on a sofa" youtube videos, so I feel like I know what goes into that, but what do y'all suggest? And where in blazes does one purchase Leather Cleaner locally? ( I know I can get it online, but I'm in a hurry, and don't want to wait a week for delivery) Like at a Hardware store? Tack Store? Should I bother with a leather guard or a leather conditioner, considering the cheap-o nature of this leather in general? ANOTHER problem with this sofa is that someone sat on it in the SAME place. EVERY time. and it shows. I'm going to need to fix this area, possibly with stripper, colorizing agent, sealer, and then conditioner/guard. I've seen youtube videos like this before, too. The areas that need this work are relatively small compared to the size of the sofa, and are circled in the following photo: I hope there's a small kit I can buy that won't be WAY more product than I need for this size job, what do you guys think? I might be able to order online for this, in order to get precisely the amount I need. But if there's likely to be a way to get something locally, you guys would let me know, right? =) One last note is that I wish the sofa was black, and thought it was when I bought it from the guy. After a little more research, I know I *could* change the color, if I wanted to spend 2-400$ on product, considering the size of the piece. Not in my price range, probably ever. Oh well. Thanks to anyone who posts any kind of helpful advice! I realize that this sofa is pretty much a piece of crap, and is factory made, and not at all up to the calibre of the sorts of projects you awesome folk usually work on, but I thought this sounded like a great place to get some frank advice, even so. Thanks for reading!
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