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Found 91 results

  1. I have an N Porter saddle in nearly pristine condition with the id # Q31895 and, as a collector of artifacts and an amateur historian, would like to find out the history of this saddle, at least the year it was made and for whom it was made. I hope I'm on the right forum and thanks in advance for any information that can be provided. Renegade12
  2. Hello all! Here's a roper saddle a friend asked me to replace the seat and fenders with a rough-out seat and fenders. It's a Vaquero stock saddle made by D. L. Moe. My friend said he didn't like how the padded seat was so high and said a deeper rough-out seat would be worth more to him than a tooled padded seat. I removed the seat and worked on the ground seat a little (there were some bumps under the pad). I also cleaned the tooled areas and put a new finish on it. It was a shame to replace all the beautiful tooling, but at the same time, I'd personally much rather work in the deeper rough-out seat than in that padded seat. Here's before: Here's after: Critique always welcome. Thanks! Ryan
  3. Hello, I am pretty new to leather work so I've been soaking up as many youtube videos as I can trying to learn. I found this forum while looking for inspiration to make this and found some gorgeous work here. This sheath was made for a guy at work that wanted to hang his knife off the horn of his saddle while riding but could also wear it on a belt from time to time. I decided the best way to achieve this was as a baldric style rig. The leather is 8oz veg tanned. My stitching chisel is labled "4.0mm" so I'm assuming that's the spacing and I used .8mm thread. (If any of this sounds wrong, please correct me. I'm still learning.) After looking at other's work on this forum and comparing the cheap chinese stamps I bought as a set off of amazon to others I've found at hobby lobby, I've decided that my tools aren't "crisp" enough and are not leaving great impressions. I plan on a better basketweave stamp as my next purchase. Over all, I learned a lot making this and am fairly happy with the results. I did make plenty of mistakes so don't look too close. Hopefully I can avoid those in the future.
  4. I found this Simco saddle at the curb on a neighborhood cleanup day. I've cleaned it up some with saddle soap, and got the suede looking better. I can't read the number on it. It has a lot of tooling and a silver piece on top of the horn. The tree looks unbroken. to me it seems worth the trouble.
  5. Hello All, Here is saddle project #4 - This is a slick fork saddle I built for a friend on a Swanke tree. Finished out at 15.5" seat. 4.5" handhole w/90 degree bars. As per usual by this stage of project all I see is problems & mistakes. I'd be very glad of input from other saddle makers as my goal is to improve my work continually/ My tooling is still very amateurish. Trying to develop my own style but it seems to require a lot of practice! Looking forward to hearing critiques and input! Regards, Ron L
  6. Hello, I am selling a Gritzner sole stitching machine in a good working condition. It was cleaned and oiled regularly. Pictures from the machine and stitching done with it can be seen at the following link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SbHjPHS4q-634VPuNwNaDd8E9KXapoFl Please let me know if you can't see the pictures. Price: 300 eur + shipping costs via transfer service (like Transfer Go, Transfer Wise, etc.) or paypal. Shipping from Romania. Weight approx.30kg Let me know if you are interested so we can find a good shipping solution. Best regards, George
  7. Hi All, New to this site and to saddle building. I have had the Stohlman Encyclopedias for years, but am just beginning my first saddle (no 2 in the encyclopedias) now. The encyclopedias are great and very detailed, but when it comes to modifying their plans there isn't a lot of info on how to do this. For example Al raves about 'Stohlman Style Rigging', but then only uses his style of rigging in one example (Saddle No. 4). I find it odd that he dedicates multiple pages to explaining why his methods are better, but then reverts back to a standard flat plate rigging in saddle no 2. If anyone has had success with using Stohlman's encyclopedias please let me know any tips and tricks to being successful with this guide especially in regards to rigging and deviating from his exact plans. Thanks! Jason
  8. Alright here's a question that came to me in the grocery store of all places! As best I've heard olive oil is the best option for conditioning/oiling leather particularly saddles yet, we all know supply and demand has made olive oil definitely not the cheapest oil to choose from. So my question here is what about cotton seed oil? I go to Texas Tech University in Lubbock which is surrounded by fields of cotton, so since cotton seed oil benefits my area I'd love for this to work. It is supposed to be growing to reach more markets but what if this could be a newfound market?
  9. Here is a few of my tips for getting your sewing to look like it was machine stitched. I took a few photos and a video, to hopefully show and explain it a bit better.... As you all know a saddle stitch is very nice looking and is accomplished by threading a needle on each end of the thread. The rule of thumb I use for measuring my piece of thread is slightly more than 3 times the length of your stitching. 3 times the length is how much thread you will use and the little more gives you enough thread to pass the needle into the thread to lock it as you work, and when you get to the end of your piece you have enough thread to backstitch to lock your sewing in place with no nasty looking knots. EG... if your piece to be stitched is 4" long, then you would cut a piece of thread that is 14" long (3 times 4" is 12" with 2" left over to lock the needle and backstitch). You start with your first hole by pushing one needle into the first hole, and pull the thread through until you have EQUAL amounts of thread on either side of your work. Now your ready to start stitching. It is always best to work from right to left, or left to right, but ALWAYS maintain that direction. Imagine your piece of work on a stitching pony in front of you... you have one needle in your right hand, and one in your left to help explain it. In this case I am working from right to left, meaning I push the right needle in first, then push the left needle through. Once you snug up the thread, you start into the next hole with the needle that is now on the right. When doing this, you should notice your right thread is always BEHIND your left thread. This is the key to making it look like it was machine sewn, and getting an even sturdy stitch. Push the right needle through and pull the thread a bit. Then push the LEFT needle through in FRONT of the thread you just pushed through. When pulling the thread tight, always pull the needles from ABOVE the threads in the holes, and when pulling the left needle, make sure it is between and above the threads in the work. The video and pictures below should help to explain this a bit better if I have confused you with my instructions.
  10. Nice condition Pearson turns freely as does the treadle base. Used for Saddle and Harness repair until last January. Pick up would be preferred, It comes with 2 additional needles, Has a small wax pot off a Singer 29, and he does not have a bobbin winder unit. I have seen aftermarket electric ones for sale. Taking best offers,
  11. Hello Everyone, I am new to leather work and have been making small accessories for about a year. I ultimate goal is to make horse tack for barrel racing or possibly heavy leather hand bags. I am looking at investing into a leather sewing machine, what should I be looking for? What machines will work for me? I plan to make breast collars, halters, nose bands, etc. Let me know what you think. Thanks in Advance, Jessica
  12. I've taken the leap to commit to making leatherwork my full-time gig. The first major step was to learn how to make saddles (just western for now) Finished saddle making school with Pete Harry from Pembroke, KY at the beginning of the month. Now that I'm back, I've opened up my business to building western saddles and do saddle repairs (in addition to all the other things I've made over the years). Now to get TLLeatherworks (Tree of Life Leatherworks) out there in social media. Already got a few repair jobs in
  13. I have had this saddle for a few months, purchased it from a collector vintage western. Has no makers mark. I believe it to be a custom. This saddle wights about 55lbs has a horn width of 7" 16 seat rawhide wrapped tree, builtin saddle bags and a skirt length of 28" Any ideas out there about this saddle?
  14. Hi all, Working on my first large scale saddle stitching project (a tote bag) and I'm really trying to do a good job. It's going pretty well and looks nice and slanted on the front. I'm doing a decent job of carrying that slant on the backside too, but every once in a while I'm getting a random flat stitch in the middle of my slanted stitches. When I find these stitches, I'm unpicking my way back to them and redoing them (mostly successfully), but I can't figure out what I'm doing to create them in the first place. Does anybody have any ideas? I've circle one such stitch in the attached photo.
  15. Hi, Can anyone tell me where I can get a pattern for a 1876 lever action, with a 28" barrel. I believe this is a 44-60 Bicentennial Limited Edition. Any advice would be welcome. This is my first post, so many thanks. Steve
  16. Hi, I am new to leatherworking. I have bought an old saddle for almost nothing, and I am taking it apart and refurbishing it, and (hopefully) putting it back together. I need lots of help with types of leather, what glue to use, how to stitch, what type of shearling to use, and I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future. I am happy to have found this community and all of you experienced folks.
  17. Hello, leather workers! My saddle never really fit me that great because of a large build-up on the front of the seat. My farrier wants me to repair some of his saddles so I thought that I'd better start with my own. I took the old seat off and skived off a lot of the annoying bulk. I then put a new seat on (rough-out this time). The next few days I covered 21 miles with it and then lightly skived the top where I felt needed skiving. I also added 4 conchos with latigo lace and replaced the lace that holds the ends of the skirts. I am hoping that doing some saddle repair will help introduce myself into the saddle-making world. I am sorry to say I did not get a before pic. Please feel free to criticize. -Ryan
  18. Morning y'all, don't post often, but I guess I should... I have a client that needs a horn shortened on his saddle. Has anyone done this before? How would I even start with this (it is a finished saddle...). I think that I need to strip the horn down, cut it, reinforce it with a bolt through the horn and gullet, then recover with leather ( of course!!) This seems to me to be the strongest way to get this done. The gentleman is a team roper, so the horn will be put through some good hard use... Does this sound right? Any tips?? Respectfully Frank B.
  19. Hello, I am posting on here for some advice and help. I am very new to working with leather and am hoping to be able to fix this old saddle and get it back to functional light use. I am wondering if anyone has any recommendations for replacing the fender and what kind of leather to use. I've seen the new replacement fenders that you can buy already cut and ready, but I'm not sure if maybe that is the best route to go? I would like to get it looking as close to the other fender, if possible, but it is not completely necessary. I have not tooled before and am uncertain that I would be able to match the tooling pattern. Anyway, I was hoping to use it as a project learning opportunity. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
  20. does any one have personal experience with synthetic fleece . who sells the best and what type of glue is suggested?. thanks
  21. does any one have personal experience with synthetic fleece . who sells the best and what type of glue is suggested?. thanks
  22. Help please! I'm trying to sell this saddle and need help identifying it. No maker's mark anywhere on it. I think it was bought for barrel racing purposes, given the seat, but am wondering if I'm wrong and it should be listed as a pleasure/trail saddle. Does anyone know its maker and/or can identify its proper classification?
  23. A friend of mine is requesting a purse similar to this. I realize its a lot of work, and there are techniques I need to learn. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thank you, so much!
  24. Is anyone at all familiar with the Sage Brush Saddle Shop in Texas? I cannot find any information online or elsewhere. I am looking at a saddle that I have little to no information about other than what is in the pictures. It is a rawhide wrapped wood tree, the leather appears to be thick and supple and the stitching is tight, neat and straight. Does anyone know anything about the maker? Or can anyone offer any insights on the apparent quality of the saddle? Anything would be appreciated! Thank you
  25. Hello, I'm looking for a trusted saddle maker to make me a quality custom saddle. I'm looking for a tough ranch saddle with swells, roughout seat and round skirt. Preferably on the lighter side, but heavy duty. I'm 17 and only work part time so I'm trying to not pay much more than $1,000-$1,500. Any ideas of someone who could make me something like that in my price range? Thanks in advance!
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