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Found 324 results
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We are selling a brand new Artisan 335 B Ped 500. Purchased in November, turns out it wasn't what we needed. Selling for $1,300 OBO. Local pick-up only! We are located in the San Francisco Bay Area, California. Contra Costa County. Make: Artisan Model: S-335 BP Condition: New / Like New - 100% - Only has about 10 hours of use Description from Artisan: Cylinder Bed, Big "M" sized Bobbin, Medium/Heavy Duty Walking Foot, Compound Needle Feed, (Unison Feed) Lockstitch Sewing Machine with a Large Thread Capacity, Big Size, Rotating Hook Mechanism. Includes a lever operated stitch length mechanism with a reverse feed regulator for back tacking and stitching in reverse. Some additional features of the 335 B include a semi-automatic lubrication system, a synchronized binder mechanism (folder optional) and the machine sews thread from as small as size z-46 up to a large diameter size of z-207 in the needle with up to a maximum size of z-138 in the bobbin. All types of leathers or fabrics as light as a sheet or two of paper and up to just over 3⁄8" thick of leather or fabrics. ACF-625 Digital Electronic A.C. Servo Motor Drive System. Locking caster wheels, storage drawer and additional accessories: needles, bobbins, a spool of thread and operators manuals. Replacement spare parts are similar to the German manufactured Pfaff model 335 series sewing machines. Includes flat bed "Work Platform" which transforms the cylinder bed surface of the sewing machine into a flat bed surface converting the cylinder bed style into a flat bed style sewing machine. More information from Artisan: http://www.artisansew.com/cylinderarmandpostbedmachine.html Thank You, please reach out with any questions you may have -
Hello everyone, I found this forum a while ago but this will be my first post. I only had my Cobra class 26 for about 2 weeks but I love how this machine functions, I'm learning every day more things about it. My problem (well other then learning how to stitch better with it) is that the presser foot marks the material, on chrome tan is not that noticeable but on some of the vegetable tan sometimes it marks it pretty bad, is there something I can do to not marker it that bad, or maybe a new foot I can buy for this purpose? Thanks everyone. P.S. I tried to search for this on the forum but I couldn't really find anything.
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I'm having a little trouble with this new/old machine. It is a Mercury m-380b and is basically a nakajima 380 (from what I understand). I have it sewing, but it's definitely not right yet. I understand most of how to thread it, but the tensioner on top is a bit of a mystery to me, and I haven't been able to find a manual or identical enough system. Does anyone have any insights on the correct way to run it? And might it change depending on thread size? Lastly, I have run it several ways, not just how it is in the picture.
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I called Toledo Industrial sewing today and asked if they had a thread lubricating oil pot.. They do.. The Ferdco Pro 2000 has one that Mr. John Bianchi used in his western belt and holster making video set. That's how i know about an oil pot. I ordered one and am attaching it to my Cobra 4 machine.. This should help when sewing thick leather where the needle likes to stick.
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My son is looking for a leather sewing machine. I found one locally, a Sibbald Co. Troy NY - model W. The owner says it 'runs smoothly but has no needle'. I cannot find a any info on this machine. Does it take a standard needle? Is this worth buying, or will it be a waste of money? Thank you for any input.
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Hi everyone, I recently purchased a singer 132k6 and have gradually been moving through the machine and fixing some minor issues. I'm stuck on how to set the hook-needle gap. At the moment I'm using organ 214 system needles and the hook grazes the needle which I'm sure is the reason I'm dropping stitches. I don't see a lot of room for adjustment of the lateral position of the hook, but I'm sure an adjustment like this must be possible. I see 3 screws on the hook itself which I imagine are used to set the position of the hook relative to the needle travel, but are these also used to set the gap? Has anyone worked with these machines before? Do I need to try a different needle system? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Best, John
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Can anybody tell what this Consew and on the back of that, any idea if it could do leather?
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For sale is a brand new (only used 2 times) Cowboy 3200 cylinder bed sewing machine. Seriously, I only made on holster and one belt on this machine. It's literally brand new still. I bought this new from Ryan Neele and within 1 week of owning it, I ran across another machine that is larger and that I originally wanted. Since purchasing the new machine, I do not need the Cowboy 3200. It come will all accessories from the factory. Plus, the belt makers kit ($180) and the flat top conversion table ($120). Asking $1700, (you can save $300 plus the normal $225 shipping on this one) I will drive within 3-4 hours to meet someone on this deal. Also, I will traveling to many place in upcoming weeks. I'm happy to meet anyone along the way. Western KY to Northern Western KY to Mobile, AL Western KY to central Kansas
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Due to my health, I am giving up the trade. Selling my nearly new Cobra Class 4 standard package. It has 12 hours of use on it. I was just starting to learn the machine. Didn't even use up the spool of thread it came with. Still has 7 of the 10 needles and everything else is totally new and unused. This is an awesome machine that can handle up to 1 3/4" thickness in leather as well as sew canvas, biothane etc. Everything is perfect on it except one tiny nick on the feed dog where I broke a needle when tension was too tight. It does not affect sewing at all, didn't even buff it out. If you are looking for a heavy duty workhorse, that will make you money back in production, this is it! Asking $2000 flat for pickup in the Ohio area. Willing to drive a ways to meet. Shipping is possible but you arrange it and pay and I will take it to the shippers. It will need to be crated and sent freight through one of the freight shippers. It is heavy! I cannot send it in a cardboard box. I accept paypal or cashiers check. Near new condition $2000 Shipping NOT included. Minimal transport included upon agreement. Standard Package-https://www.leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-class-4-s-standard-package/
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I have sold my CB 3200 and ordered a used reconditioned Adler 69. The 3200 was a great machine but just not what I needed. The 69 has a lot smaller dia. cyl. I will post some pictures when i receive it and get it mounted on a table that I am making for it. My question to anyone using this machine do you run a 138 thread top and bottom or a 138 on top with a 92 on the bottom.
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So, I bought a Consew 206RB-5, and I'm excited to get started. Table showed up preassembled, servo motor looks cool, whole thing seems neat...but, hey, anyone know how to set this thing up? I've read a ton of posts here, and elsewhere, watched near endless videos on Youtube, so, of course, now I know how to assemble the table that came preassembled, and how to thread the machine 80 different ways. Thing is, none of that is how to take the machine from cool parts in a box to actual, working machine. How do I install the bobbin winder? I need to drill new holes? There's a sheet metal housing that, I think, covers the belt, is that so? What are these curved springs with copper wire in them for? Or this wee metal piece lined with cork? Generally, what is all this unexplained crap, and what do I do with it all? And, of course, why is the instruction manual slightly less useful than a screen door on a submarine? I'll take my answers off the air, thank you!
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Hi. I’ve just been gifted a 1953 PFAFF 30 sewing machine and I’m in the process of cleaning it and restoring it in the hope that I can use it to sew small leather goods. It’s the Australian version and has a Wernard 240v 0.38amp motor which still works. The US version came with a 1.5amp motor which, according to the YouTube videos I’ve watched has a lot of punch power (torque) making it a great modification for sewing leather. Is issue I have though is that this motor is only 110v. Can anyone help with shedding light on this machine specifically with using it for sewing leather? Are there other 240v motors which would be appropriate and what other modifications should I consider for it. I’m in the process of cleaning it so haven’t tested the punching power of the 0.38amp motor yet. It’s such a beautiful little machine and I’d love to bring it back to life and put it to use. My step father, who has late stage Parkinson’s, gave it to me and I’d love very much to have him see it working and making things again. He remembers it working from when he was a child. Thanks in advance.
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I read today that China is to be charged a massive amount starting at 10% and going next year to 25% on US import duties, so you guys in the states can expect massive increases in the imported sewing machines very soon, so if in doubt probably a good time to rush out and buy now if you want a new machine Not sure how it will effect the rest of us but as I imagine the US is the largest market, there could be a flood of machines on the market -
Found this online a guy bought a house and it was in his barn. Got it for 75 dollars and refurbished it. No more hand sewing yay!
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sewing machine Trouble changing stitch length on Singer 29K58
iknowit101 posted a topic in Sewing Leather
Thanks a lot for ALL the great advise we get here. I just got a Singer patcher 29K58 and my issue is that I am not able to change the stitch length, I have moved down the piece in the back of the presser foot all the way down as indicated on the owners manual and the youtube videos but that doesn't change the length of the stitch. Is there any other setting that can help me change the length of the stitch? I thought that this one would be an easy one to fix but after adjusting the piece all the way down still does not work. As always, any advise will be appreciated. -
Hi There Folks! This is my first post, after lurking on this board for quite some time. After doing some research (mostly from Wiz and Uwe's extensive post history and wealth of knowledge) it seems like I have an idea what my needs are for my first commercial sewing machine, but still lost for which direction to go in, as it seems like I'm looking for something that may not exist. I would like to be able to sew using threads that range from #138--#277 (maybe but the need hasn't expressed itself yet). I would like to be able to sew medium and soft temper leather, as well as tooling veg, bridle, latigo in thickness that range from 1/16-3/8". I make bags, wallets and belts. Not holsters or sheaths. I also will occasionally be sewing fabric linings and canvas, wool or denim. The CB 4500 looks like the best choice for heavier weight materials and thread but I think it's overkill for what I need, and based on info from Ryan Neel, it doesn't sound like it will handle the thinner work. I do like the 16.5" arm on those machines. Based on some other posts, it sounds like I might be in no man's territory and there aren't really machines that can work in the thread weight range. Do I understand that correctly or am I missing something? Any suggestions would be great to hear! Thanks! Patrick, The Masses -
I recently purchased a juki lu563. It came with an extra motor, a enduro pro sm645-1p. It was missing the fuse cap and fuse. I contacted enduro and they can’t tell me what amp fuse is used with this motor. Does anyone know what amp buss fuse is used with this motor? I’d like to get it running. thanks
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I recently purchased a juki lu563. It CSM with an extra motor, a enduro pro sm645-1p. It was missing the fuse cap and fuse. I contacted enduro and they can’t tell me what amp fuse is used with this motor. Does anyone know what amp buss fuse is used with this motor? I’d like to get it running. thanks
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I have a machine we bought to do shows and it just did not work out doing shows(not the machine,the shows) So we added a treadle base and made it usable as either a hand cranker or a treadler. It sews light leathers, uses regular machine needles (including the home type leather points). Easy to clean and take care of and would be great if you wish to use it out front at a ren faire or the like. I have video of it going and all on FB so using the link to my page there for pictures ETC. Email me dancethellano @ hotmail. Asking $300.00 for it https://www.facebook.com/pg/Cassandras-Dragonworks
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I've seen many helpful topics on leather sewing machines, but what hand cranked machines (especially older ones) are good for, say, up to 2 pieces of 8 ounce veg tan? Any advice would be much appreciated! Did Jones ever make one btw? Apologies if this was covered and I missed it.
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I found a walking foot machine with reverse that fits my budget ($450). It's the CONSEW 118. I haven't found too much info on YouTube for this machine. The seller claims it was a back-up for him and has been stored indoors for the life of the machine. The pictures seem to support his claim as it is a clean machine. I intend to use this machine for leather wallets, backpacks, messenger bags using thinner leather. I'd like to do some basic holsters and upholstery in the future. I would very much appreciate your honest opinions, especially information regarding; space parts vendors/availability, needle recommendations, where to purchase additional presser feet, etc. Thank you all. Mark in Colorado.
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Hi all! I am new to everything sewing... so you can bet that I have watched every tutorial out there that I can find. However, I cannot figure out why my machine sews 2 full stitches before my skipping many, many stitches. I have a Rex607z (shh! I am poor). I have been trying to learn for its equivalent machines like barraccuda 200z amd sailrite LSW. I have rethreaded, changed the needle (135x15 tri and upholstery thread...should be #69 but it does not say clearly), re-done bobbin, changed needle bar height, checked for burrs and bent things, and re-oiled everything. The kicker, the sewing machine will sew through jersey knit fabric (1 layer) with no skipped stitches. When I sew deer hide with a straightline, the ol' Rex makes two stitches then skips everything after. If it is in zigazag, it will only pick up the bobbin thread in a straight line..not in zigzag. Anyways, if anyone has any auggestions at all about what is going on and how to fix it, please let me know! Thank you all!
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For Sale 2 COBRA Class 18 Compound Needle Feed (Triple Feed) Walking Foot Sewing Machines for $1100 a piece. Both machines are in excellent condition and located in Huntsville, AL. Features: Sews up to 20 oz. (depending on material) Compound Needle Feed (Triple Feed) Walking Foot Big Bobbin (M style) Uses thread sizes from 69 to 207 Safety Clutch for hook protection Digital D.C. Servo Motor Heavy Duty Speed Reducer Flat Bed stand with locking casters LED light Thread stand and bobbin winder
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I am not new to leather but I am new to using a sewing machine with leather. I do guitar straps, cuffs, embraces and gauntlets. My wife would like to do heavy canvas bags. I am looking fo a machine around $750 to a $1000 that will do and average of 6 ounce leather and heavy canvas. Low volume items but good quality. I need advice on a sewing machine not the perfect one but the correct one that will suffice for the volume I do. Please help me choose. -
I have a Techsew 5100 se and I need to adjust the height of the presser foot but I have no clue on how to do this, watched the dvd read the manual and neither mention how this is done. Any help is appreciated. I'm trying to lower it all the way down.
