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Showing results for tags 'sewing'.
Found 244 results
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I have searched to find an answer for this to no avail. I need to sew a welt into an odd shaped sort of pattern(see picture). I believe they call this a dart in the sewing community. My question is how to make the welt end so it looks good at the point where the leather makes the "V" at the centerline?
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Okay I know you are all going to tell me this is a bad idea and that I should just buy a real leather sewing machine, but I don't have the money to make the investment yet, so I wanted to try this first. If I were to try sewing softer oil tanned leather with a normal sewing machine, what should I buy to make it work right? I hear that you can buy walking feet for normal sewing machines along with leather needles for them too. What do you guys think of that idea and what needle/ walking foot should I be looking at? Thank you for your advice! -Cole -
Hello everyone, I am a beginner to leather working. I have done some hand sewing, but I am now considering buying a sewing machine, and I am looking for help knowing what to buy. I am hoping to keep the budget under $500, but I really don't know how much one needs to spend. I would prefer to spend less if that is possible. I was looking at walking foot sewing machines and thinking that would be a good idea, but you tell me if you think it's worth the upgrade. I am thinking of buying something used off of ebay or somewhere, but I wanted to ask the experts first. Thank you for your help! -Cole
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Hi guys! Wow, it has been a while! I would just like to announce that my store, Egyptian Leather, is now selling FULL, Factory Sealed spools, of Ritza 25 Tiger Thread! We have struck an amazing deal with the manufacturer, and we are now a certified wholesaler of Ritza 25 Tiger Thread! -- And the best part is, were based in the USA! That means no more $40+ Shipping, no more surprise bills for Import Taxes, and free shipping for everyone! We will be selling the spools at the same price as Abbey England, minus the shipping, and you can find them Here, along with my smaller spools. (Which are still available!) AND John James Saddlers Harness needles are in stock too! If you have any questions or feedback, please feel free to post it here, or email me at Orders.EgyptianLeather@Gmail.com Thank you to everyone who has given tiger thread a shot, you guys are awesome! -JEM
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I am reading about people using certain needle sizes and thread sizes for various appications in leather work. I cannot find anywhere, any information about what needle to use with what size thread for any specific use, whther it is for hand sewing or machine sewing. Can anyone please direct me to where I can find this info....?
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I have a like new cowboy cb-3500 it's only been used a handful of times I bought it from Bob at Toledo early this year. I've found that this is more machine than I need and prefer to hand stitch. It comes with everything you see. 1#white 277 1#brown 277 1# ea white brown black 207 1# ea white brown black 138 8oz red 207 8oz red 138 2 packs schmetz sz 23 needles And a half a pack of sz 25 Can meet within 50 miles of 41046 inkdbulldog@gmail.com 8593608990 Can send pics upon request 2000$ obo
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Hello guys, my first post here! I am a complete novice to the leatherwork/sewing field and I am looking for some advice here. I would greatly like to get into the reconstruction of Nike's/Jordans especially, completely redoing the upper of the shoe with premium materials such as python, lamb/pig skin and eventually leather. I have been doing a TON of research but when it comes down to finding a machine Google just isnt good enough, i need help from a real person with some experience. (PLEASE VIEW WHAT IM TRYING TO DO HERE: https://instagram.com/JBFcustoms OR www.jbfcustoms) I am looking for a starter machine to do this stuff with. Through constant research I have found that one of the top reconstruction artist linked above uses both a flat bed and a post bed with a roller foot. I personally cannot afford 1 machine really, let alone 2, so I am looking for something that is good enough to get me through my trial and error stage and help me make some profit to purchase a better machine! I have looked up several diff kinds of machines... Post, flat, teflon, cylinder, walking etc etc, but its all like a foreign language to me. I would like my first machine to be able to handle at least 3,4 oz of leather as well as the python and pig/lamb skin material. So far the cheapest post bed Ive found is a Yamata 810 at about $600. I have heard that some machines can come with attachments to make in into a flat, which would be great since that post has that 7" stand, which would make it difficult to sew the material together before actually putting it on the shoe... Can somebody lead me in the right direction?! Im located in Ohio... THANK YOU!!! -
Wanted a used or new cylinder arm sewing machine. Need to have reverse and minimum of 5/8 foot lift, more is better. Any reviews on the Techsew 5100? Thanks, Bonnie
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I have found a supplier of linen thread in Britain. It is run by a German lady, Hilke Kurzke; she stocks linen thread from several European manufacturers, including Fil au Chinois You can order as little as 1 X 5 metres of thread, then various samples and variety packs, up to full reels; there is a wide range of colours available Search Google for 'buchertiger supplies' or http://kurzke.co.uk She is pleasant & helpful, with a quick response & delivery time.
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Just one more "attaboy" for Bob Kovar. Talked to Bob by phone on Friday. Thread in my hand on Monday. And it was THE thread I asked for -- not "something" plus a speech about how he'll "make it right". For those old enough to have forgotten, or those young enough they've never seen it, THIS HERE is customer service -- send the customer what they asked for, at the advertised price, in a reasonable amount of time. Sending the wrong goods, or billing problems, or slow response.. an offer to "fix" the problem the supplier caused is not 'customer service' -- it's 'damage control'. I ordered thread, not a fancy pile of bull poo. And thread is what I received, so thanks again, Bob ...
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Adler, Camoga, Fortuna, Galli, Krause Industrial Machinery Located in North Florida, this leather company is consolidating their inventory and I am helping sell the items. The equipment included is brand new, or like new, indoors/factory kept, European machinery. - Pay by cash, check or bank wire. Credit Cards will be accepted, a 3% transaction fee will be added. - Pick up items in person or arrange your own pick up/delivery/shipping. - DM me for more information, to answer specific questions or additional photos. - Images can be viewed by following this link: Flickr Images We have the following machines for sale: (1) Adler Sewing Machine - $4,180 (2) Adler Handbag Sewing Machines - $3,080 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (2) Adler Sewing Machines - $1,980 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (2) Adler Sewing Machine - $1,870 each - German Made, includes Servo Motor and Table (1) Atom Clicker - $5,280 (1) Camoga 520 Splitter Automatic - $14,850 (2) Fortuna Bevel Machines - $1,980 each (1) Fortuna Bevel Machine - $2,970 (1) Fortuna Type UAF 470 Splitting Machine - $10,450 (1) Galli Stamping and Number Machine - $3,300 (1) Galli RCB Bag Trimming Machine - $6,600 (1) Galli R5L Belt Collector - $7,150 (1) Galli TGV20 Drying Tunnel - $3,300 (1) Galli FC2E Belt Polish and Paint Machine - $8,800 (1) Galli SM3 Bag Polishing Machine - $4,950 (1) Galli LCS2 Glazing Machine - $6,820 (1) Galli TCE 3000 Oil Pressure Punch Machine - $3,300 (1) Galli Srapy Booth - $4,950 (1) Krause Cardboard Cutter - $2,420 (1) Protos Type 1652 Linear Folding Machine - $3,300 (1) Protos Strap Cutter - $4,620 (1) Protos Folding Machine - $1,320 (1) Protos Type 680 Tracking Machine - $2,200 (1) SPS Automatic Stapler - $2,640 (1) Silvy Strap Cutter - $7,150
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Heya, I come from hand sewing world and am just beginning to really learn how to use a sewing machine. Currently, I am trying to make a watch strap and am having difficulties lining up the stitching perfectly at 3 crucial points (start, tip, end). Starting stitch should be perfectly parallel to the ending stitch and the tip directly in the middle. How on bloody earth do you do this (see the image below)? I am trying to sew at somewhere around 10spi. Also, what is the best way to start and finish the stitch so it won't look messy and the thread will stay put/secure? Many thanks -
Back before I owned a leather sewing machine I had dreamed up a few designs with the gusset seam as shown below in the photos (not this same bag, but just the seam on it). Once I got my first machine I quickly realized this style of seam did not appear to be possible using a sewing machine. It is not your typical seam, just an overlap of leather. I know it is possible to do this by hand stitching, but I had seen photos of this same bag in brown with what looked like a backtacking that a machine would have done. Is there a way to machine sew this style of seam I am just not thinking of (a patcher could do it possibly, but I have a regular cylinder arm and a flatbed consew)?
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Hello, I just purchased a new cobra 4 sewing machine and have been noticing that when sewing slowly the outer presser foot comes up in a very jumpy manner. Kind of like a stutter. It kind of concerns me that the rod holding the outer foot might be off in some way - and I don't want to continue any damage to this new machine if something isn't set right. Anyone have this issue with that outer presser foot when it is pulling up? Still does it even when I pulled the foot off. The rod is pushing up on the large tension spring on the inside of the case, so my thoughts are that this could just be some physics about the slow speed against a high pressure spring. Any thoughts? Just want to make sure either way before moving forward!
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I have a really nice Artisan 5110 post bed sewing machine. Roller foot machine. Made for heavy or light weight material including leather. It has a servo motor which makes it very easy to control your stitch. Adjustable stitch length and it also has a reverse for backstitching (back tacking). Nice size table with locking caster. Comes with a light, two spools of thread and few accessories. Uses a knee lift and has a foot pedal for the servo motor. $750 + shipping Thanks for looking. Randy
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Hi guys. If you're looking for the Cowboy User Guides and Assembly Guides, I make them freely available here: http://www.solar-leather.com/supporthelp/ There are also several videos covering random things. I try to cover as much information as I can but haven't had time to make videos for every issue. If you have video requests (be polite!) I'll see if I can get to it.
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Hi folks, I am trying to make the perfect gun belt. My struggles: gluing 2 pieces of 7 to 8 oz leather together on a flat surface. The problem with this is I am getting wrinkles on the inside of belt, also the inside belt holes look funky over time (bulged out slightly). This problem I have seen on a few of my belts, not all of them. I understand that the inside layer of a belt travels a shorter distance than the outside layer which makes since that something is going to give. To fix this problem. I have started gluing my belts around a 50" bucket. This seems to work out great! This makes the inside layer at least an 1" shorter than the outside layer. I just tell my customers to look at this as a top shelf belt and keep on your top shelf not a hanger.. My question is, will I encounter any bad side effects from gluing belts this way? The last thing I want is for the outside of my belts to show wrinkles. Struggles # 2 I am using a cowboy 3200 with #277 top and bottom thread. When I hammer the top stitches down they sit down nice,( acceptable to me) however after hammering down the stitches on inside of belt they are raised up more than my liking. (not acceptable to me). I don't think it is a setting on my machine as the knot is sitting in the middle like its supposed to and I don't see any loose stitches. To fix this problem I have been using a stitch groover on bottom of belt. I don't like using the stitch groover on the bottom. If I could decrease my bobbin thread size I think this will alleviate my raised stitches. My question: with me using #277 on the top what is the smallest thread I can use in my bobbin that will work on 2 pcs of 7 to 8 oz leather? My second question: Will this help or am I better off just using a stitch groover? Thanks for your help.
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Hi! Been lurking on this forum for a while and recently been looking into leather patchers for my amature shoemaking. I should start of with saying that I have no prior experience using sewing machines nor servicing them. I've been looking for something to sew shoe uppers with (usually about two layers of 1.5-2.5 oz calf leather leather), and if possible soles as well (8-10 oz leather, although I can keep doing these by hand if needed). Been looking into singer 29k models and it seems pretty good for what I want to do. It seems relatively easy to use as there seems to be alot of replacement parts available and alot of information to find online. The hand crank is a very good feature aswell, especially since I don't have alot of space in my apartement and don't need the threadle. One of the machines I found is this model recently, seems a bit more modern than most 29k's that I have found so far. Any idea which model and if its a good machine for a beginner? Its around 350 euros. I also found this other machine that seems to be from around the 1880's, might be called "Patent elastique" by Husqvarna or J. A. Nilson. Only 150 euros, but I can't really find alot of information about it. Thanks in advance, looking forward to be a part of this community. -Rainy -
Hi all. Just picked up a cheap Pfaff 1445 in so so condition. I regret not doing enough research to discover that it's apparently a somewhat rare machine with few compatible parts. Does anyone have the operator manual (not the service manual)? I'm aware kwokhing.com for presser feet. Are there any other compatible feet available? How about service parts?
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How do you end the thread so it doesn't come out of the holes. I wrapped the end a few times on my straps and the end came out already. I back stitch on other parts of the bags. But the ends of the strap I wanted to wrap to protect the points from opening. Maybe a dot of glue?
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Looking for stitching and/or sewing help (contract based) for a consumer leather product in the next few months to half a year. In Massachusetts, preferably within an hour or two of the Blackstone Valley area. Thanks!
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I haven't posted in a while and I remembered this category on the forum. I wrote a blog post this morning on the general topic of leather sewing machines--more specifically, MY leather sewing machines, and the love & adoration I have for them. Anyway, here's a link to the post--feel free to share the whole thing here if it's appropriate. Here's the link: http://www.brucegibsondesign.com/sewing-machines-stitchers-profanity-thoughts-violence/ -
Wanted a used or new cylinder arm sewing machine. Need to have reverse and minimum of 5/8 foot lift, more is better. Any reviews on the Techsew 5100? Thanks, Bonnie
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For Sale - I have a Campbell Bosworth Lockstitch machine purchased from Campbell Bosworth about 7 years ago. I comes complete with the stand, bobbin winder, assorted tools and extra pulleys, just as it shipped from CB when I purchased it new. I have sewn very little on it. I have used 1 spool of thread since I bought it. Works perfectly and is oiled every time it was used, again very seldom. I will post pictures later, but has been kept in conditioned shop since my purchase and wanted to get it out here if folks are interested. Since the questions will be asked, I am selling because I don't have the time to do this anymore, own a small machine and can use that for what little I do. I live in Georgia and would probably require that you pick it up. Shipping would be a serious chore and I cannot deliver. I would rather deal face to face. I paid $6197.00 new. I am asking $5200. Make me an offer.
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Hi, I have a relatively simple leatherworking job that I'm looking to offer to someone either in/near Norfolk, Virginia, or Portland, Oregon (I live in VA, but the majority of my business is located in OR). I have a straightforward wallet design that I need someone to construct. I'm considering two methods of manufacture. 1) Having the leather laser-cut (including stitch holes) and then hand sewn. 2) Having the wallets die-cut and sewn by machine. Either way, the requirements will be relatively basic. If you live in or near Virginia or Oregon, and have an interest in this work, please let me know by personal message. Further, if you have contact information for someone or some business that may be interested in this work, please forward it to me. FYI, this job probably will not begin for the next few months, but I'm trying to get things in order now. Also, I'm currently at sea with the US Navy, so my response time may be delayed. Thanks!
