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I am wondering how you would sew the piece that contains the phone. how it is rounded over and then stitched. I can see how you would do the one side, but after that is done, how would you stitch the opposite side together? You cant see the bottom side, but I'm assuming it's done the same way. Thanks Zayne

I bought a Juki DLR-415-5 today for $50. A glove making factory in town shut down and the owner of the building was clearing stuff out. I don't know much about it yet and I was wondering if anyone here knew what thickness of leather it could handle? I also have to get a new motor because it has an industrial 3 phase one, does anyone know about that? I'm pretty new to all of this, so far I've only done hand sewing with leather- I hope this was a good buy! Thanks in advance!

So I've been making these wallets for a little while now, and have a question about my process. I glue all the card slots onto the liner and assemble the entire thing before gluing it to the outer shell. This means that I end punching the stitching holes last ( I use Tandy's 4 prong Craftool punch). This seems to work fine, but occasionally, the force needed to punch through multiple layers of 3oz inner plus the 4/5 oz outer shell seems to be too much. I have to wiggle the punch out and sometimes the holes just seem to big after the stiching is done because I had to whack the punch so hard to get through the layers.. This picture shows what I'm talking about: So my question is: Should I be punching the holes for each piece individually, THEN gluing them together? This seems like it would result in cleaner stitching, the only problem being that the holes never seem to line up. I've tried it before where punch the holes for the outer shell, then punch the holes for the inner, and try to line them up when gluing together but I always end up having the needles going through at crazy angles and had a tough time with that. The attached picture shows what I'm talking about, (taken from Corter Leather) I just wonder how the heck all of the holes stay lined up, as cutting out pieces by hand always seems to ensure slight variances in dimensions. Thanks for taking the time to read this!

Ok, so, just a few months ago, November of 2013 to be exact, I bought a brand new, Tippmann Boss sewing machine. Straight out of the box, using a size 200 Needle, with 277 thread, it works perfectly. I purchased the flatbed accessory, the other presser feet, and size 160 needles and 138 thread just a couple weeks ago. Using the new size 160 needle and 138 thread, it no longer makes stitches. I checked the needle alignment - the scarf spot is going where it is supposed to go. I've tried turning it a few degrees either direction, several times. The thread tensions are set up according to instructions. It misses every single stitch. So, I live in central time zone, and I call customer service. They all leave at 3pm my time. I have a full time day job. Kinda tough to talk to someone.... So I email them... 3 days later, I get the response "One thing we can try is taking some pressure off of the take up arm spring.There is a spring in the back of your machine that lifts your take up arm up you can bend this spring out and take some pressure off of it." .... literally, that's it. So, it took 3 days to tell me that I need to bend a spring to fix my problem? That seems like terrible customer service. Since when did we start bending things and breaking precision equipment in order to fix it? At any rate, I tried this method. Didn't fix it. I took the needle plate off, and watched the needle enter the shuttle bay. The little finger that catches the loop of thread on the needle, misses it. It's as if the shuttle doesn't go close enough to the needle. Thoughts?

Hi Everyone. I am new here, and have been working with leather for probably 20-years or more--mostly just using cowboy gear. My wife does carving and I do custom saddles and stamping. We are moving from Texas and have an almost new Sew Line GA5 head, table, 1725 clutch motor and bobbin winder all assembled and ready to go to work--asking $850.00 and used it maybe 10-times. We keep it oiled and in top shape--it is literally like new. We'd like to sell it as assembled and we live in Sealy, Texas--about 20-minutes west of Katy and 40-minutes west of the southern edge of Houston. This is a great machine with a huge shuttle hook, sharp adjustable height walking dogs that won't mar your tooling leather projects and we sewed up to 3/4" of heavy skirting with it and it did a superior job. I have lots of pictures if you are interested. My email is mikesuemoore@outlook.com and we are moving out of state in a couple weeks and would really like to see this very nice set up, go to someone who can use it. We bought it for our own tack needs and never did commercial work with it, which is why we only used it a few times. We ended up buying a huge upright stand up machine because it goes through about 1 1/4" of skirting which we needed for our saddle skirts--glued sheep's lining made for a bit much for this GA5. So it has never been abused or improperly used. You can also call me if you want and I'd be happy to answer any/all questions you may have. I am an ex-ranch cowboy, educated corrective Farrier and all around pain in the ass, but I am mellowing out with age and so my wife was the only woman to tame me--this is her machine. She does all the stitching. 979-885-7187 This is listed on Craig's List and we will sell to the first serious buyer--we can only help you load it because we are short on time--moving in a couple weeks. Thanks guys.

I've been doing leatherwork as a hobby for a few years. I've come into a little extra money and I'm looking at buying a machine that can handle heavy duty sewing. I tend to make things like holsters, collars, bags, pouches, and armor. Most of my work is with veg tan in the 8-12 oz range. I don't think I have enough to buy anything new, so that means I'm looking in the used market. I've done some reading, and there are a ton of options out there. I'd like something that will work reliably without too much fiddling or repairs needed. I'm able to go up to maybe 1100 or 1200 with shipping if it's truly the best choice for me, but I'd like to stay under a grand. I'd like advice or general suggestions. If you're selling something that you think is within my budget, post here or PM me. I'm in Rhode Island and willing to drive a little ways to pick something up.

Hello! I have just purchased my first TechSew 3650 HD (super excited about it by the way) and am planning on making headstalls, breastcollars, halters, etc. I have previously been using an old Singer that has done a great job, just ready to move up to the big leagues. I have heard about using a "saddle stitch" and a regular stitch.... what is the difference between the two? What is the typical thread size, stitch length, needle size that I should use for heavy harness leather from about 11-16oz thick for my tack? I have the needle that came with the machine, I believe they are 27 (if I am remembering correctly) and 207 thread. I remember there being a post about this but I cannot seem to find it to save my life. Any help you would provide would be great! Thank you so much!

Egad, I'm a dreaded newby. Humble apologies. I have lost more hair today attempting with no luck to locate an instruction manual for or pertinent to a Singer 331K104. I did find the singer parts list but that's all. And, yes, I did contact and actually speak with Singer. The lady was very cooperative and even looked in the filing cabinets but to no avail. I also visited numerous web sites and made numerous phone calls. Still no luck. Surely one of you must use this machine and can help? I'm an industrious retiree? (how can you be retired if you still work 7 days a week?) and really enjoy leather work. This machine was purchased, not to take the place of hand stitching, but for a special project which will entail several hundred like pieces of light leather best machine stitched. The machine was purchased from a retired tailor at a great price. in excellent condition, and has sewn (by him) several prototypes of my objects. Now that I have it in my shop and he is no longer available to mentor me, I could benefit by having the manual. I know this posting is too long, but I wanted to answer a lot of anticipated questions. BTW, I'm in Cortland, Ohio (near Youngstown) should anyone care to stop by.

ASC #9 will sew 3oz up to 3/4 inch thick. asking $1900 OBO Singer 29k72 patch machine $700 OBO Both machines work fine. I am selling to buy a new flatbed walking foot foot machine, or would consider trades. email me @ twistedhleather@gmail.com

Like most everyone, I come to the sewing machine section for advice. I'm thinking seriously about a new machine. I only know what i've read here. The Techsew 3650HD looks like a good deal on a machine. The only thing I really see lacking is a walking foot. Does anyone have any feedback on that machine? I'd be using it to mainly sew motorcycle bags (2 layers of 8oz), holsters, wallets, and belts. I've never used a leather sewing machine before. Again, like everyone else, I'm not trying to spend a fortune on a machine. My thought with this machine is that it could handle all the heavier task and I could still do some hand sewing on smaller projects until I could afford a second machine better suited for lighter leather. Unless, of course, you guys think this machine might be able to handle the lighter stuff also. I appreciate any input.

We are selling everything in our business. Willing to sell altogether or part out. Please go to this link to see pictures. The files were too big for this site. http://austin.craigslist.org/search/bfa?query=leathershop&zoomToPosting=&minAsk=&maxAsk= Chandler 305-64 $1,500 Juki DDL-552 $400 Singer long arm 29k60 Landis in line finisher (sander, waxer, polisher) Landis Model K boot stitcher $8,000 American ModelC leather splitter Auto Soler Toe Stretchers 3sm, 2m, 1 large, 1 special, 2 upper boot, 1 in step $200 Misc tools St. Louis Shoestand $100 Saddle stand adjustable $150 Hand Stamps and tooling leather punches for making belts We are in the Central Tx area $30,000 obo for everything, a lot not listed Everything is in good working order, we were running just last month.

Used No. 9 Luberto Harness Stitcher. This machine is in working order with no problems. It has been maintained properly. It comes with an operator's manual, needles, spool of thread, three bobbins, stand, motor, thread stand, stirrup plate, flat plate, thread snips and oil can. The bearings have been replaced within the last year. This machine has been my only machine that I have used in my custom saddle and tack shop and it can stitch through just about anything. Can be used on tarps, saddles, pads, etc. Please call with any questions. Jake 660-247-3256 Pick Up Only

Hi guys and gals. I think i have made my decision based on everything that i have read and reviewed. I am looking for a Cobra Class 4 Premium machine for sale if anyone has one. Please let me know if you, or someone you know has one for sale! Thanks everyone! redsleatherco@gmail.com 859-468-5111 text me if possible, im not too good about answering unknown numbers...

I've been lurking around the site for a while and recently decided to join so I could ask a few questions and see some informational pictures. Hey everybody! Im a young civil-engineer and ive been handcrafting leather products for friends and family on the weekends and some nights. Some of my gear landed in the right hands so Ive decided to leave my current job and start a new venture. I'm launching a start-up and only have experience with hand-stitching. Honestly, I hate to break away from hand stitching but some products will require it. I need to find a machine to evaluate cost, so I can program it into my line-item budget (my original budget provided to the investors ranged the machine from $1500-$3000. What I'll be making: Handbags; "totes"; satchels; rucksacks; purses; clutches; duffel-bags; Belts; wallets (probably still going to hand stitch these) but open to machine sewing; in-pocket phone cases; luggage/bag straps: Some of these products (30%) will be a mix of waxed canvas and leather, but most will be completely comprised of leather. I'm using Horween Cordovan Shell for smaller items and good quality veg-tan hides for bags. The weight will range from 3-4oz leather for small items to 9-10oz for larger items. I'm not looking to spend a fortune, but I'm willing to invest in a good machine. I've looked at the Cowboy 4500 and some Juki and Consew machines, but since I have absolutely no experience with machines, I don't know what to get and don't know if I need anything like that.. I've been to several design-studios in the past few months and they all seem to have long arm table-top machine with compound walking feet. I'm not stuck on any machine or any style. I'm up for any and all recommendations. I'll be hiring a few interns who have fashion-design experience and of course multi-material sewing experience, but that will be in 2014... I'd like to find and buy the machine now to start familiarizing myself with it. When I'm in the full swing of things, I'll have to buy more machines as well. However, I need something that is somewhat multi-purpose. I'm pretty proficient in PAD 5.0 drawings/files and also Adobe Illustrator and CAD if anyone ever has questions on that or how that could use it with product design. Disclaimer: highly-technical sewing lingo will fly directly over my head. I apologize for my ignorance,

Please post up pics if available and any extra info about it that you like. I appreciate all the info i've learned untill wee-hours of the morning from this site. 1: Juki DSU-145 equipped with a Reliable servo motor. I purchased it from someone that use to make handbags. It can sew most of the collars we make when we use 1/8" padding inside, not so well when I use 1/4" padding. I also use this machine to do all of the letters to collars/leashes. 2: Adler 867 M-type temporary equipped with a Family servo motor, and adjustable guide. This does our collars with 1/4" padding with NO problems. It has a 20mm pressor foot lift. I'm really satified with this machine. Next...I would like to own a Patcher(29K) and a 441. Thanks in advance for anyone that shares their equipment! Malik

I'm selling a Cobra C-4 leather sewing machine with electronic positioning. I've used it exactly once to test it out after I bought it 8 months ago. Needless to say, it's in brand new condition. For full specs please visit: http://www.leatherma...log.php?item=57. I'm also selling a new skiving machine: the Cobra NP-4, which I purchased with the C-4 sewing machine. For full specs please visit: http://www.leatherma...log.php?item=27. As it turns out, I will not be going into the leather business. They are large machines, so I will not be able to ship. I live in the Seattle area and you will need to pick them up if you want them. Priced to move: $2,100 for the sewing machine, $950 for the skiver. Perhaps less if you want both. Joel at (206) 310-3739.

My Consew 206RB-3 came with one foot - a walking foot with two toes and with teeth on the bottom. That is the limit of what I know about it. Is there literature anywhere about feet for this machine? I'd like to know what's available, how to identify each foot, how to tell if the foot I'm using isn't right for the job, and what IS right. Golly, I wish someone would make a how-to-use-it DVD for this machine. The manual is so lame.

I have a tipmann boss sewing machine and don't put it to use enough. Machine is in excellent condition with very little use. I have all the documentation and most of the attachments, including flat bed, stitch guide and a lot of other accessories I have never used. They sell brand new on sale from Tipmann for $1195 with just the base unit. I am asking $1000 including all the accessories. The only reason I am selling this machine is because I found a Skiver and would put it to much more use than the Tipmann Boss. I am willing to ship anywhere that doesn't create a hassle. Thanks for looking! feel free to call 715-271-9558 I am in Portland, Oregon

I have an artisan Toro 4000. I am no seemstress and I am not a pro leather worker either but I like to make a few things here and there. My Artisan is skipping stitches on latigo- its very difficult to sew. It has started to skip stitches on the smaller stuff as well. I have adjusted the tension, changed needles, changed the bobbin, done more practice pieces, ect. I am just at a loss of what to do next. Please help me before I go insane!

Adler 105-64 for sale, Wax Pot,Bobbin Winder,Stand. Great Shape and Ready to go..... 1500.00$ picked up in Oneonta,Alabama Will Post Pics Soon 205.919.8210 cell

I am looking for leather workers interested in working in a new Chicago area shop. You will make hand made custom products, sewing and working with leather and felt. You must have experience in leather works, hand sewing and operating sewing machines. Let me know what area you live in and what is your experience level. I am starting a new leather shop and I need a few people to help me. Quality is our only requirement.

Hi, I'm on the look out for a stitching machine. For making wallets, bags harnesses etc. I'm in the UK, southeast so I realise it might be difficult as most of you are in the US but I have to ask if anyone can help Franco

(I was told this was the right area to post this in, so sorry for those who see this as a doublepost.) Hello! So, this is my first post on leatherworker.net, and I have quite a few questions regarding leather weight, purchase inquiries, leather types, and copper rivets. But first, some background... My name is Caracal Keithrafferty, and I'm located right by Milwaukee, WI. I made my first large purchase of leather tools, dyes, and hardware late last summer. The tools I have are: Knives V-Gouge Awl Edge Beveler (Sz. 3) Parallel Stitch Groover 2 Overstitch Wheels (Sz. 5 + 6) Bone Folder Edge Slicker Wood Hammer (I was considering an epoxy or rubber hammer; can't afford a good rawhide one) 2 cutting mats Dyes and liquids (and related items) I have are: Wool Daubers EvoStik Time Bond Contact Adhesive (haven't used it; not really sure when, how, or where one would use it) Carnauba Creme Gum Tragacanth Tan-Kote Neatsfoot Oil (Never used it, not quite sure what it's for) Leather Sheen 8 different dyes Hardware (and related items) I have are: Lots of scrap leather from Hobby Lobby; mostly small pieces. A couple different hammering tools 2 small anvils (one is damaged) O-Rings D-Rings TIny buckles Various rivets *Note: To describe the rivets and other hardware further might be challenging. I know I have some snaps, and I can set those properly. I have many tiny eyelets (the ones that mushroom out; one piece). I have a couple of grommets (2 pieces, brass look to them), but I don't believe I have any of the necessary setting tools. I have some single cap rivets I believe, but they are missing the male end I believe. I used all my copper rivets; even with improper tools, I made use of them (and I plan to purchase many more in the future. Any suggestions on what I'd want?). Aside from those, I have some other ones I'll call mystery rivets... I've got some that are long tubes (7/16 inch or so) that are unthreaded on the inside. I'm not sure how they're used. I've got other ones that look like grommets, but are non-flowering like the eyelets, and have a short shaft. I don't know if they're part of something. There's another kind that seems similar in for to the snaps, but is missing a 4th piece. They are definitely different from the standard ones; one cap has a little piece of metal lifted up, another part has tiny holes and grooves on it, maybe implying that it's supposed to change shape when tooled. Another kind I have are only few in number, but they're flat-bottomed, have a moderate/small sized shaft, and have a tiny hole at the end of the shaft. Lastly, I've got some solid ones that I have no idea how to set. They have long shafts, end in a dome on one end, and about 2/3 of the way down from the dome have a disc solidly on the item. It may be related to a Sam Brown rivet, but I am unsure. I also have several split pins, but I don't know if they're related to leatherworking at all. Those are all the leatherworking related items I have at my disposal currently. I do not know how to sew leather, and I am not quite sure where to start. All the items I've seen sewn so far have been with very thin leather, and I hardly to never work with thin leather. Can anyone suggest some hand tools for me to use? I did some brief research and though about buying, but I have no idea where to start. I cannot afford machinery, but hand tools might work. I have dyed some leather a fair amount, and I've learned how to smooth edges and backs of leather well enough. So, as far as that goes, I have down the technique, just not the perfection. I can hammer rivets well, and I can cut leather just fine. But what I need now is information on leather weight, proper leather types, and other items needed for making basic armor for LARPing. I've got a friend who wants me to make him some armor. It doesn't need to protect much, and he's seeking form over function. I also want to sell at other LARPing conventions. More details on armor: My friend Geoff has commissioned me to make him a set of armor consisting of: pauldrons (shoulder armor) that go from arm-to-arm over the shoulders, covering the arms up to the elbows; greaves (shin armor) that go up to the knees, but don't cover them too much (I have this part mostly done, should I post photos?); sabatons (foot armor) that cover the instep of the foot, and covers the ankle bone on either side; and that largest part being the breastplate (front body armor), which only needs to cover the chest, the belly, part of the sides, the collarbone, and little to none of the lower back. He also told me that a long term project I could do with him would be a plumed helmet. Another one would be a Romanesque skirt. The overall look he's going for would be somewhat similar to a roman soldier with a mix of some medieval aspects. It does not need to be historically correct, just similar in its look. What I'm not worried about is making the whole project aesthetically pleasing. Geoff said he doesn't mind nicks and damages to the leather, as long as the overall product is good. It can be made of lots of straps and things on it without much worry. What matters is that it looks good, fits semi-comfortably, and is thick enough to protect against foam swords (they can actually hit fairly hard, should I get 7-8, 8-9, or 9-10 oz leather?) For reference, Geoff is a pretty big guy; he's about 6' 2" and weighs around 230 lbs. What I seek to learn: What I really need to know now is what kind of leather I should purchase. To cover the pauldrons, sabatons, and breastplate, I hope to spend less than $175 on leather. I'd like to purchase leather that's bleached or white so I can dye it easily to my liking. So, what suggested weight (oz) leather should I grab, what specific type of leather should I grab (rawhide?), and where should I get it? I have a Federal Tax ID #, so I can purchase from wholesale suppliers, but I don't know if I'd be purchasing enough for the venture to be worth it, or if I should just stick with eBay or wherever you guys suggest. I currently have only a catalog from Weaver (thoughts on the company?), and I'm curious where I should go from here. Overall list of questions: Important: What leather weight do I want for making pauldrons, sabatons, and a breastplate? What type of leather do I want for making pauldrons, sabatons, and a breastplate? What amount of leather would I want for making pauldrons, sabatons, and a breastplate? Where should I purchase my leather? What other leather related items should I purchase? Not as important, but still curious: Should I post pictures of my leather progress and various works? Should I post pictures of the mystery rivets? What tools should I get for copper rivets? When is leather adhesive used? When is stitching used in leatherwork? Is stitching the same as sewing (if not, when is sewing used in leatherwork?)? Any ideas on what the mystery rivets were? (Sorry if some questions seem like they can just be googled; I really prefer to ask people because it allows me to respond for clarification.) Thanks much for reading all this. If any parts need clarifying, please let me know! This is a large project for me, and I hope to learn a lot from it!

Hello! So, this is my first post on leatherworker.net, and I have quite a few questions regarding leather weight, purchase inquiries, leather types, and copper rivets. But first, some background... My name is Caracal Keithrafferty, and I'm located right by Milwaukee, WI. I made my first large purchase of leather tools, dyes, and hardware late last summer. The tools I have are: Knives V-Gouge Awl Edge Beveler (Sz. 3) Parallel Stitch Groover 2 Overstitch Wheels (Sz. 5 + 6) Bone Folder Edge Slicker Wood Hammer (I was considering an epoxy or rubber hammer; can't afford a good rawhide one) 2 cutting mats Dyes and liquids (and related items) I have are: Wool Daubers EvoStik Time Bond Contact Adhesive (haven't used it; not really sure when, how, or where one would use it) Carnauba Creme Gum Tragacanth Tan-Kote Neatsfoot Oil (Never used it, not quite sure what it's for) Leather Sheen 8 different dyes Hardware (and related items) I have are: Lots of scrap leather from Hobby Lobby; mostly small pieces. A couple different hammering tools 2 small anvils (one is damaged) O-Rings D-Rings TIny buckles Various rivets *Note: To describe the rivets and other hardware further might be challenging. I know I have some snaps, and I can set those properly. I have many tiny eyelets (the ones that mushroom out; one piece). I have a couple of grommets (2 pieces, brass look to them), but I don't believe I have any of the necessary setting tools. I have some single cap rivets I believe, but they are missing the male end I believe. I used all my copper rivets; even with improper tools, I made use of them (and I plan to purchase many more in the future. Any suggestions on what I'd want?). Aside from those, I have some other ones I'll call mystery rivets... I've got some that are long tubes (7/16 inch or so) that are unthreaded on the inside. I'm not sure how they're used. I've got other ones that look like grommets, but are non-flowering like the eyelets, and have a short shaft. I don't know if they're part of something. There's another kind that seems similar in for to the snaps, but is missing a 4th piece. They are definitely different from the standard ones; one cap has a little piece of metal lifted up, another part has tiny holes and grooves on it, maybe implying that it's supposed to change shape when tooled. Another kind I have are only few in number, but they're flat-bottomed, have a moderate/small sized shaft, and have a tiny hole at the end of the shaft. Lastly, I've got some solid ones that I have no idea how to set. They have long shafts, end in a dome on one end, and about 2/3 of the way down from the dome have a disc solidly on the item. It may be related to a Sam Brown rivet, but I am unsure. I also have several split pins, but I don't know if they're related to leatherworking at all. Those are all the leatherworking related items I have at my disposal currently. I do not know how to sew leather, and I am not quite sure where to start. All the items I've seen sewn so far have been with very thin leather, and I hardly to never work with thin leather. Can anyone suggest some hand tools for me to use? I did some brief research and though about buying, but I have no idea where to start. I cannot afford machinery, but hand tools might work. I have dyed some leather a fair amount, and I've learned how to smooth edges and backs of leather well enough. So, as far as that goes, I have down the technique, just not the perfection. I can hammer rivets well, and I can cut leather just fine. But what I need now is information on leather weight, proper leather types, and other items needed for making basic armor for LARPing. I've got a friend who wants me to make him some armor. It doesn't need to protect much, and he's seeking form over function. I also want to sell at other LARPing conventions. More details on armor: My friend Geoff has commissioned me to make him a set of armor consisting of: pauldrons (shoulder armor) that go from arm-to-arm over the shoulders, covering the arms up to the elbows; greaves (shin armor) that go up to the knees, but don't cover them too much (I have this part mostly done, should I post photos?); sabatons (foot armor) that cover the instep of the foot, and covers the ankle bone on either side; and that largest part being the breastplate (front body armor), which only needs to cover the chest, the belly, part of the sides, the collarbone, and little to none of the lower back. He also told me that a long term project I could do with him would be a plumed helmet. Another one would be a Romanesque skirt. The overall look he's going for would be somewhat similar to a roman soldier with a mix of some medieval aspects. It does not need to be historically correct, just similar in its look. What I'm not worried about is making the whole project aesthetically pleasing. Geoff said he doesn't mind nicks and damages to the leather, as long as the overall product is good. It can be made of lots of straps and things on it without much worry. What matters is that it looks good, fits semi-comfortably, and is thick enough to protect against foam swords (they can actually hit fairly hard, should I get 7-8, 8-9, or 9-10 oz leather?) For reference, Geoff is a pretty big guy; he's about 6' 2" and weighs around 230 lbs. What I seek to learn: What I really need to know now is what kind of leather I should purchase. To cover the pauldrons, sabatons, and breastplate, I hope to spend less than $175 on leather. I'd like to purchase leather that's bleached or white so I can dye it easily to my liking. So, what suggested weight (oz) leather should I grab, what specific type of leather should I grab (rawhide?), and where should I get it? I have a Federal Tax ID #, so I can purchase from wholesale suppliers, but I don't know if I'd be purchasing enough for the venture to be worth it, or if I should just stick with eBay or wherever you guys suggest. I currently have only a catalog from Weaver (thoughts on the company?), and I'm curious where I should go from here. Overall list of questions: Important: What leather weight do I want for making pauldrons, sabatons, and a breastplate? What type of leather do I want for making pauldrons, sabatons, and a breastplate? What amount of leather would I want for making pauldrons, sabatons, and a breastplate? Where should I purchase my leather? What other leather related items should I purchase? Not as important, but still curious: Should I post pictures of my leather progress and various works? Should I post pictures of the mystery rivets? What tools should I get for copper rivets? When is leather adhesive used? When is stitching used in leatherwork? Is stitching the same as sewing (if not, when is sewing used in leatherwork?)? Any ideas on what the mystery rivets were? (Sorry if some questions seem like they can just be googled; I really prefer to ask people because it allows me to respond for clarification.) Thanks much for reading all this. If any parts need clarifying, please let me know! This is a large project for me, and I hope to learn a lot from it!