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  1. Ok, these are not my pictures or work, I just saw this on Pinterest. Hope this is the right section of the forum, if not (mods feel free to move it). Have always wanted to do something like this, instead of making the boots completely from scratch! I am not sure how best to attach the leather to the edge of the shoe, or what they 'aged' the leather with, some kind of oil? If anyone's done something like this, or has any helpful hints - Thanks in advance!
  2. Hello all, I'm looking for some guidance here. I'm planning on making my first set of turnshoes and I'm having trouble finding what leather thickness to use. The more technical texts (Shoes and Pattens, Anglo-Scandinavian Leatherworking in York), talk about types of leather but not thicknesses. Tutorials online contradict each other - some say to use 5/6oz leather, at least one says that anything thicker than 4 oz will always split when you turn them. Given that the leather species used for uppers in medieval contexts was often calf, sheep, or goat, it seems like the leather would be quite thin - maybe2- 3 oz. But how on earth could you do a butt stitch or tunnel stitch on such thin leather(like for heel stiffeners and closing seams). So, for those of you in the know - what thickness have you used for uppers? Has anyone had any luck doing closing seams on really tin leather?
  3. Hello! Let me present to you my third work. My first work were these boots http://leatherworker...showtopic=45616, design Merrell Chameleon Wrap, and the second, running shoes, design Garmont Escape PRO 9.81, on photo bellow. And here shoes numbered 3, with my own design and own logo, which will be discussed here and manufacturing technology, which I would like to share with you. The first thing I began with - design, available materials and furniture. Despite all this, you can correct design subsequently as I did. I began the design with a clean sheet of paper. Sketched a few pictures I settled on this design, considering the design features and attachment parts sequence - this is important , otherwise it will be impossible to attach it properly. It is also important to think about where and how will shape the bend. To improve inflection, I used an extra pair of belt loops on the shoe vamp. Here demonstrated only one of many possible designs of shoes, the rest depends on your imagination. http://i-fotki.info/...031277.jpg.html "By approving the project" could begin. Put all materials on shoe last (except upper material) in the right amount and manner as they would be in the finished shoe. It is necessary to put a thickness of insole and middle sole. For further winding of shoe last, use masking tape 20-25mm wide, wider is not recommended. Masking tape should stick well, but not to be wax outside, otherwise it will be bad stick and when removing the shell it can lose shape. http://i-fotki.info/...031431.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031468.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031491.jpg.html Glue tape needs with a little overlap, preferably without wrinkling. After sticking enough thickness of tape, insert shoe last in the outer sole and outlines the level to the visible part, below which all will hide. http://i-fotki.info/...031619.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031648.jpg.html We should also mark the axial lines, front and rear. Now we can begin to design. Draw is best with conventional ballpoint pen, using gentle pressure and instead of the eraser, use pieces of masking tape. Underway, you can change the design somewhat, if in dimension will not like something. Since the right and left side is not quite the same, move all lines using vellum, for example, you will not succeed. Help you centerlines and tailor measuring tape. After completion, you must draw harder all the necessary lines, to avoid confusion. http://i-fotki.info/...031709.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031815.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031845.jpg.html Using sharp knife, making slit at axial lines and lower edge, to divide into two parts. By dividing, cut along the contour, including the toe cup as the most convex part. Parts became more flat, but they still can not be cut, they must be glued on thick paperboard, while leveling and cropping. More detailed process describes here http://www.youtube.c... for shoes&sm=3 http://i-fotki.info/...032008.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032046.jpg.html Now is necessary to make slits on lines for creating patterns. http://i-fotki.info/...032207.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032235.jpg.html Creating patterns is most responsible for connection all parts. Using the main patterns make all external parts. It is necessary to consider all overlaps, overmeasure and mark centerlines. You should also specify the right and left sides, as well as the front to each side. http://i-fotki.info/...032285.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032313.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032340.jpg.html After making all patterns, you can begin to cut material. Also note, if were made ​​some amendments to the upper, it is necessarily to make them on patterns. http://i-fotki.info/...032387.jpg.html I have a regular sewing machine (Singer copy), therefore the manufacturing technology reminds classic shoes, where is no need of a post sewing machine. I made some improvements for greater sewing accuracy and larger thickness. I replaced original hand driven mechanism and attached own lever directly on the wheel. Instead of three stitches per one revolution, now it makes one (used for hand sewing of large thickness). Undergone revision and presser foot, making it narrower and shorter, increased downforce, improved visibility and accuracy. Needle used conventional 110, although it is better to use reinforced for leather, thread polyester 40. http://i-fotki.info/...032557.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032583.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032604.jpg.html Before sewing, machine needs to be adjusted for a specific material thickness and test on a separate piece. My primary material is haberdashery suede 1-1.2 mm thick. http://i-fotki.info/...032654.jpg.html Should start with the basic parts, on which is necessary to mark those details, which will be sewn first. Because of the sliding effect and high downforce of the presser foot, one material slides relative to another, I found a simple solution for this problem, parts before sewing, I gluing together after what, concentrating on precision stitching. http://i-fotki.info/...032713.jpg.html Since suede is not for footwear, however, it is strong enough, to provide proper rigidity of some parts I’m using 1mm thick cotton fabric. http://i-fotki.info/...032779.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032806.jpg.html Having measured braid using patterns, glue and sew them, then you can sew the side part. Do the same with the second half and then sew together both parts. Stitch on these parts is 2.5-3mm. http://i-fotki.info/...032978.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033039.jpg.html After receiving a single piece (upper), it’s ready to make a heel cap. Since I did not have a proper shoe last (proper shoe last on pictured below), I made a separate billet for forming the heel, but with a normal shoe last is done directly on it. Cut two pieces of cotton fabric, stretching and gluing together with SAR 306. When dried, transfer lines with pattern and cut. http://i-fotki.info/...033091.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033129.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033381.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033431.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033457.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033479.jpg.html Then glue it on heel in folded position on shoe last and sew it with stitch 2.5-3mm. http://i-fotki.info/...033535.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033559.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033593.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033616.jpg.html Now you can begin with layer over the heel of polyurethane foam and lining. There are no patterns for these parts, so lay out on the shoe last, blank sheet of paper, draw around the top and cut. There no corrections for polyurethane foam, but lining must be recalculated - 1mm suede + 3mm polyurethane foam + 3mm wool interlayer + 4mm lining allowance = minimum 11mm total must be added to the upper contour, on which will be sewn lining. This is necessary to ensure that all will twist neat. http://i-fotki.info/...033673.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033705.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033735.jpg.html Sew need right by the polyurethane foam, for smooth edge, stitch 1.8-2mm. For insulation using natural wool, material thickness about 3 mm, the same material used on the first boots. Gluing with SAR 446, applying thin layer on wool and suede. The photo shows masking tape, 5-8 mm to the edge, where wool layer will be needed to cut. http://i-fotki.info/...033796.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033827.jpg.html Then gluing lining with SAR 446, also applying thin layer. http://i-fotki.info/...033883.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033921.jpg.html All excess need to be cut and sewn, on that edge, where the masking tape was. At this stage, the shoe begins to appear. As can be seen on the photo, it keeps form well, but the final forming will be at the very end. http://i-fotki.info/...033977.jpg.html When the upper is ready, next part you need to continue - tongue. There also no patterns, but you can estimate the length using upper, the width of the tongue I took from my sport shoes - 100mm. Gap width in the shoe vamp is 40mm, respectively adding 6mm allowance, will be enough for sewing. On a sheet of paper draw everything and make pattern, cut the mesh and lining without any overmeasure. Put some polyurethane foam (about 3mm) on the tongues top (for thickness and strength) and sew together mesh with lining face to face. Then glue mesh with wool layer and extroversion. http://i-fotki.info/...034032.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034054.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034191.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034218.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034262.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034286.jpg.html Cut a piece of suede, glue and sew. Mark the braid and sew. http://i-fotki.info/...034383.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034406.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034426.jpg.html Connect together tongue and upper with clearance 40mm using SAR 446 and then sew together stitch to stitch. Mark border of the toe cap on upper and glue with SAR 446 along the edge, as well as toe cap, connect and sew, stitch is 2.5-3mm. http://i-fotki.info/...034718.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034749.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034859.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034891.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034918.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034939.jpg.html Now put the upper on the shoe last, I leave allowance in 20mm for bend under the shoe last, only for upper, side parts, heel and toe cup should be in the slice with the bottom. After toke the upper, cut out the toe reinforcement from cotton fabric, glue with SAR 306, tighten in place. Once again, make sure that upper is in the right position, remove the staples and glue. Cut off all suede relief and glue suede center part. When it's all ready, it's time to form the shoe. We need to warm all shoe parts, that has inside cotton fabric and tap with a hammer, to complete forming. After that, shoe will keep the shape for a along time. http://i-fotki.info/...035595.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035647.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035683.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035713.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035741.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035767.jpg.html Basically shoe are ready for gluing outer sole, but I would like to stamp on it own logo. To do this, take a picture of the shoe from the side, where logo will be, open the vector program Corel Draw, import photo, create a logo in scale and print on plain paper. Take sticky film Oracal, and cut out the logo with sharp knife, slot only to the film substrate. Unstick from the film unnecessary parts and glue masking tape over all parts. Cut and stick the logo in its place. Carefully remove the masking tape, leaving all separate pieces in place. Glue around with masking tape to avoid smudge of shoe. Preparation is completed and we are ready for rubber coating. As rubber coating I’m using SAR 306 and 30-40% of aluminum powder (for metallic effect). Using brush, apply thin layer and let it dry for a couple of hours. With precision knife cut glue on film edges for smoothness of the logo edges without rips. Due to a thin layer of coating it obtained fairly resistant to damage. http://i-fotki.info/...035832.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035873.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035901.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035924.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035950.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035974.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035995.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036020.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036039.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036068.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036089.jpg.html Finishing stage, gluing the outer sole. Left the upper on shoe last and insert it in outer sole, outline with pen about 1mm below the level of the outer sole. Apply SAR 306 on surface, coat over line and let it dry. The outer sole is made from thermoplastic and I need degrease it with special composition Satreat and only then glue it. When the glue dries, it does not stick at all, conversely it's slides. Insert shoe in the outer sole, heat bottom side with hairdryer and press for a few seconds. Then you can easy heat side parts and tap with hammer. By this way it’s easy to make clean connection between upper and outer sole. http://i-fotki.info/...036284.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036312.jpg.html After a few hours, you can remove shoe from the shoe last. It remains only to make insole. For insole I am using - 2mm thick polyurethane foam, 3mm wool interlayer and 3mm lining. http://i-fotki.info/...036371.jpg.html Glue the insole on its place and do all the same with the second shoe and enjoy your work. When placing this article on other sites link to this forum is required. Sorry for not exact terminology and not perfect english. Good luck!
  4. Good Morning all! I have been experimenting with different glues to use in my shoemaking, which is in an enclosed space and all cemented construction. I love how Aquilim 315 doesn't smell at all, but unfortunately, the hold is just not there the way I am doing it (not mixed with the crosslinker, and hammered for pressure-not a sole press). I like the hold on the Renia Cologne, but the toxic smell makes me want to pass out! Can anyone please recommend a cement for me to use? Some of my concerns are, once dry and set, and shoes get wet, or in the freezing weather that it still holds. Seems from other forums that Leatherweld would not be good once it freezes? Thanks so much and best regards, Faye **see pics where glue is coming apart at the waist
  5. Hello to everybody! I'm a young italian boy, age 24. In these month I've finished my first pair of handmade leather boots. I'm very interested in old-techniques, especially the wooden pegs manufaturing. Unfortunately here in Italy is really hard to get all the materials. I've found only the biggest measure of Blau Ring wooden pegs, that is 24 mm long (measure over the box is 8/8) I really need the smallest one that is approximately 15 mm long. Does anyone of you know where I can buy this pegs? Hope you could help me (hope you like my work) best regards to everybody Yuri Gamberoni
  6. Newbie here - new to the forums and new to working with leather. I just completed (nearly) my first pair of sandals. I'm still waiting on an order of sole material to stick to the bottoms to make them wear longer, but they're wearable for now. I've learned quite a bit while working on these, so I'm excited about starting on the next pair to see if I can improve the look and the speed of construction. Sarah aka Hawah
  7. First post as a new member to the forum. We currently make a few styles of leathers shoes in St Paul, MN and Miami, FL, here's a link to our online shop to see finished products - http://lanona.co We are looking for collaboration opportunities with members of this forum. Also, interested to add machinery to our St Paul workshop in the near future. Looking forward to hearing feedback and making new connections. Thank you, Ben.
  8. I have a guy that's asked me to make some boots for his girlfriend. I don't make boots. I'm a wallet and bag kind of guy. He has a picture of what he wants. It appears to be a custom pair that someone else has made. Anyway, if anyone is interested in this, I'd gladly pass your name and information along to him.
  9. I was reading and watching a lot on shoe and boot making. I wanted to get into making my first pair of dress shoes or chukka boots but where I am having trouble is with the lasts. I don't know what model/style or size to get plus where to get them from. If anyone has any helpful knowledge or insights it'll be great. Neil.
  10. I've been interested in shoe making for a good while now and I finally found the spare time to make my first pair during my New Years vacation. I had a great time doing it and I really look foreword to developing the skill. One thing I noticed however was, despite the fact that I enjoy the labor and the process, my little leather patcher sewing machine was a life saver. I used it to sew the parts together on the upper portion of the shoe (relatively light leather, 5 iron I believe) and it only took me about a minute to make a seam that would have taken hours to do by hand. Unfortunately, I did not have a machine capable of sewing the thick leather used for the sole so I ended up doing all of that by hand and it took a good 2 or 3 hours. I'll include a few pictures so that you have a better idea of what I'm talking about but I'm looking for a machine that can both sew through the thick leather used for a sole and one that can sew into a corner, so to speak. The seam for the sole sits right up against the side of the shoe and the presser foot on most sewing machines is too wide to allow me to make such a close seam. I'm hoping to find something small and hand-powered (like this ) that won't cost an arm and a leg, but I'm open to other suggestions.I should mention that my ultimate goal, and the reason why I'm looking to save some time, is to do this as a business. A side project at first, of course, but I'm very interested in getting out of my office environment and making a living with my hands. I've got more pictures here, as well as a brief catalog of the process. Thanks!
  11. I have been offered a singer 29K hand machine which looks very adaptable and a woderful piece of engineering. I wonder whether this would be suitable 'all rounder' type machine for me to make the occasional pair of shoes. I am not sure the maximum thickness of leather it can sew or thread size it can handle. Thank you for your advice
  12. I am planning to get Singer 47W66 and was wondering on its capabilities on sewing leather? Does anybody in this forum have an idea about the max thickness of leather it can handle? Cant find much on the net! thank you
  13. Greetings to everybody! Here i want to show some little expirience about creating boots. This is my first shoes i ever made. I very much like older version of Merrell shoes like chameleon series, which in production no more and i thought why not to make them by myself. It was interesting job that i done. Everybody are welcome to watch result on youtube.If you have some questions, i will answer with pleasure. to be continuum......
  14. Hey everyone- I am brand new to the forum so I apologize if any part of this post doesn't adhere to community guidelines or practices. This is a long post- sorry about that. I wanted to err on the side of clarity. Please see my attached image- it should clarify as well. Here's the deal: I want to make a pair of minimal, soft but sturdy shoes fitted to my own feet for indoor wear while practicing kung fu. They'll be fairly simple, styled somewhat like a ballet soft shoe (pleating near toes- here's an image of what I'm thinking of imitating regarding pleating: ballet shoe) with an insole for cushioning made of a single piece of thick leather (or midsole? I'm not quite clear on the difference between the two but at any rate, my shoe will only have two soles- an inner one touching my foot and an outer one touching the floor) and an upper made out of one solid piece of leather. My basic plan is this: an insole made out of relatively thick and stiff leather will be cut to the shape of my foot (I'm going to call this the insole unless someone corrects me). An upper, which I would like to make out of pigskin (smooth side out), will be something of a u-shape cut out of one piece of leather (sort of like this), with the round part of the u being the toe and the ends fastening on the outside of the heel with a heavy-duty snap. This upper piece will be wrapped around the insole and attached on the bottom first with stitches on the very edge, and then contact cement for reinforcement. I will probably then shave off extra leather with a razor blade to make the shoe feel flatter underfoot- I've seen this done in a ballet shoe video and figure I can replicate it. One end of the u will wrap around the heel, and they will overlap and be fastened with a snap to enable easy removal since I want the upper to cover my whole foot, unlike a ballet shoe which has a short vamp and covers only the toes (see attached drawing). Finally, a full sole made out of either a very short-nap suede, if this is obtainable, or less-ideally, standard smooth-finish leather, will be applied to the entire bottom surface of the shoe, covering all of the pleating etc. I will probably cement this only as my understanding is that contact cement can be softened by heating when it's time for resoling and the sole can then be removed easily and replaced. I want to make an upper that will last forever and can easily be resoled when necessary. Thanks for reading that giant explanation! Here are my questions: 1. What material would be most durable for the sole? I put a piece of ebay suede on another pair of shoes and it's falling apart- fibers coming off, bare spots etc. I know dance shoes have a very short, fine suede (chrome suede?) that looks almost like a chamois and it's much more durable, but I don't know if this is widely available in leather shops. And will I be able to remove the original sole easily by heating it with a hairdryer and pulling it off? Or will that damage the rest of the shoe? 2. Is a single layer of pigskin strong and sturdy enough for the upper of the shoe? Again, I want it to be soft and flexible but not floppy, and I don't want them to stretch out so that the shoes slide around. It seems to come in a maximum of about 2oz. Should I use two layers so that one can act as a lining- or perhaps use a layer of the above chrome suede as a lining if I can find/afford it? Would having two layers rubbing against each other degrade the leather faster/should I sew them together anywhere other than the edges of the piece? I could do some sort of pattern on the top of the foot if sewing the layers together is necessary, but the less work, the better. I do need the shoe to have a certain amount of structure so that it holds shape and doesn't twist on my foot or allow me to slip sideways off the insole. I chose pigskin because it's supposed to be the most durable and breathable and is also pretty inexpensive, but if you think something else would be better please recommend. I'd rather not line with any sort of fabric because again, I want to build these once and build them well and never have to do it again unless I want to. 3. Can anyone recommend a particular type of leather I should use for the insole? Its role is to provide some minimal cushioning for my foot and some structure to make this a shoe rather than a sock, but I don't want anything hard or overly stiff because my goal is to feel the floor- so probably no tooling leather; maybe some thick cowhide? I'm not sure if it should be smooth leather or suede either- I'd like it to last forever and my impression is that the finish on smooth leather is more durable, but I don't want my (sock-covered) foot slipping around inside the shoe. Possibly I should sew a piece of chrome suede to the top surface of it (again, if I can find that stuff). 4. What's the best way to finish edges, like at the top of the shoe near the ankle? Leave them raw? Sew a seam just in from the edge? Fold over and hem like fabric? 5. Should I use artificial sinew? Something else? The shoes will be black in their entirety so of course the thread will have to match. I don't have the time or resources to get heavily into leatherworking, so I'm trying to make the simplest and most optimal shoe without all the heavy duty equipment- I'm not interested in purchasing lasts, a machine, etc. I'm hoping to get by with a new pair of sharp scissors, a few glover's needles and some tough thread. I do have a fairly large awl that might be good for punching through the insole- I don't think the thinner pigskin will require punched holes (correct me if I'm wrong). Here's a quick drawing I made to hopefully clarify what I've said above. If you've made it to the end of this post, thanks for reading and I appreciate your help!
  15. Would someone kindly point me in the right direction. For several weeks now I've been trying to come up with published techniques when using multiple Fiebings dyes (in my case on shoes and belts) separated/protected by some sort of resist or technique. I'm accustomed to using paraffin in a pottery situation to either prevent the clay from receiving any color (at all or at that moment of the process - or to protect a final step while completing colors in another section). Is there a corollary in using Fiebings' dyes? I've gotten reasonable good at blending in the dyes creating a patina, hue or amalgam I like. I am unable to discover a product or technique that will enable me to create crisp lines.
  16. Greetings to everybody! Here i want to show some little expirience about creating boots. This is my first shoes i ever made. I very much like older version of Merrell shoes like chameleon series, which in production no more and i thought why not to make them by myself. It was interesting job that i done. Everybody are welcome to watch result on youtube.If you have some questions, i will answer with pleasure.
  17. hello all- seeing the willingness of other to share has encouraged me to "show off" some things been working on. i am new to shoe making and leather working for that matter ( i am a cabinetmaker by trade). trying to come up with designs accessible to an urban client. hope you all enjoy:
  18. Does anyone know how i could print a design from my computer and somehow transfer it with a transfer paper on to a leather surface. I want to put a print on a pair of my Nike Air Force 1 gym shoes.
  19. Hi, I have not had any training in shoe making, but I have been making these (and the like) for about 3 years now and, by trial and error, they have been getting progressively better (from outright disastrous to fairly decent). It's a combination of leather, expanding foam from Smooth-on for the foot bed, and castin resin from Alumilite for the sole. I am still unhappy with my skill in forming the upper over the foot (so that it won't throw those tiny wrinkles). Any comments / tips / questions are appreciated. Thanks for looking, Mike
  20. Hello all, I have recently been working on a pair of shoes for a vegetarian friend of mine and have run into a wall when it comes to attaching the soles. I am having trouble coming up with a suitable alternative to leather for making an insole to outsole that can be welted by means of a feather. Any suggestions? Is there a way around this that anyone may have experience with such as forgoing the welt entirely and cementing the outsole directly? Is there something that may work in a similar fashion to a cut feather for sewing the welt? Thanks in advance Kenneth
  21. Hello there, this question is for any shoemakers or anyone with some input out there. I am interested in getting into bespoke shoemaking and am looking for advice, recommendations, and input from those of you with experience. I have been doing plenty of research and am still unsure what kind of sewing machine might be the best fit for me. I have been looking into walking foot machines but i would have to say that the majority of the videos and images I've seen of people actually sewing vamps and uppers on machines using a roller foot rather than a walking foot. is this better for cobbling or are these, roller feet, designed to do things specifically that walking feet are less compatible to? some other questions I wouldn't mind answered: -places I can purchase single pairs of rubber, silicone. shoe soles that I could cement to shoes I make. (I want to work with canvas shoes too) -tools: where to buy them, or how to make them. which ones are essential. -suggestions on books, videos, websites, etc. that have useful tutorials and instruction. - anything else you can suggest
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