Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'skiving'.
Found 42 results
-
Rare Fortschritt Leather Skiving Machine - Fortuna Type $1000 This is a very rare german made leather skiving machine. It cuts a wide range of skives because it has a long curved presser foot that can be adjusted a number of ways to get different angles and widths. The machine is in excellent working shape, see a sample skive photo below. There is cosmetic wear as this is an old machine. If you want a machine with great bones and a great history, this is what you are looking for. I purchased this a couple years ago from a leatherworker in Nyack, NY. He owned it since the mid 70s but it has not been used since 1995ish. Prior to him owning the machine, this skiver was used to manufacture NYC firemen's helmets in a manhattan factory. The machine is mounted on a converted wooden sewing machine table and is run with a clutch motor and leather and rubber belts. This is comparable to fortuna machines and parts such as Bell knife, sharpening stone, rollers, presser feet should be interchangeable with parts easily found on ebay if necessary down the road. Everything on it right now still appears to have plenty of life left. I will also include a heavy metal roller tool for compressing turned/glued edges. Local pickup only in Ridgewood, NJ. You may inspect items prior to purchase. Payment Methods - cash / money order / bank check only Thanks very much! The website is not letting me upload photos, so if you are interested, PM me and I'll send you a Craigslist link to photos.
-
Did anyone ever try to build a skiving machine? I cannot afford spending CDN$750 plus tax on a used bell knife skiving machine which would be the most economical option. But I have a welder son, a lathe and a 3500 RPM 450 Wt motor from a dishwasher. I want to try building a machine with a flat rotary knife and bought a HSS slitting saw blade off eBay, this one: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/80mm-OD-3mm-Thickness-72T-HSS-Milling-Cutter-Slitting-Saw-Blade-/351220948325?hash=item51c6665d65:g:Qw0AAOSwyQtV4dxW with the intent to grind off the teeth and sharpen it to a concave shape, then mount it on the motor shaft. The motor would be mounted at about 20-30 degree angle so that the blade would cut off just the strip at the edge that I need. I did not plan how exactly to guide leather through the knife and adjust the guide, it's in the contemplating stage yet. Any critique or tips?
-
Brand New Scharffix 2000 Leather Paring Device For Sale. Sensible Offers Considered Long story short, UPS delivered this late and I had to forfeit the commission for which it was purchased. Outside of this project, I do not have a use for this tool. Unfortunately, the company I bought it from want to charge me $80 to return the product, and so before doing so, I thought I would offer it for sale here. This tool has never been used, and comes in its original box, with instructions, spare blades, and adjustment wrench. Scharffix tools are made in Germany and as such are of very high quality. I was very impressed with how well made it is! For those of you who aren't familiar with this tool, Schmedt, the makers of the tool, have a video here. Skip to 1.26 to see this tool in action. I'm understandably looking to recoup as much as my original expenditure as possible and will consider sensible offers. Please let me know if you would like any further details or images. Nick
-
Will "pasted flesh" make leather thicker? I'm looking to buy some leather from Wickett & Craig and have it skived down to 2oz. I have the option of having it refinished and pasted, but I'm curious if the paste application will make the leather much thicker. - How much thicker will paste make the leather? - Also, will paste make the leather stiffer? more durable? Thanks for the help!
-
Hey all, I've been doing my watch strap ends with the Tandy Safety beveller, but I wonder if there's a better way? I skive the ends where they wrap around for the pin and buckle. Could I use a machine like this splitter to get more uniform skives? I'm working with 4oz CXL as well. Any thoughts or suggestions?
-
Cobra Steve of Leather Machine Co. has put together an informational page about Skiving Machines with a video too! Thanks for sharing, Steve!
-
Hello everyone! I'm rather new around here, and after reading a bit and getting some practice with spare leather pieces I decided to begin the real work by making a simple wallet. I'd like to show all the steps here to help other beginners like me and, more importantly, ask doubts to all the kind, handsome, wise and experienced craftsmen around :-) 1 - Choices, choices... I found a simple and nice folding wallet that I liked at a shop in my neighborhood. After silently staring at it like a lunatic for about 45 minutes I made a little sketch : 1.1-Material I'm on a mariana-trench-level budget but I got some ok scraps from a tanner (Is that how it's called?? Where they sell leather hides?? :-S ), some black ones and a big beige piece. No idea of the animal or type, but they'll do right now :-) It's not a very thick material so I won't be sewing by hand, but by machine. I'll try to follow this type of process: That means skiving the leather to finish the sides, either with a hand tool or using a dremel. QUESTION: In the video they use "water based glue". Any idea of which could that be? I'll be using a regular one that I can find easily, anyway. FABRIC: Should I use cotton, nylon, polyester...? All the wallets I've looked into seem to have some kind of nylon fabric. Next steps: drawing the pattern (using autocad), uploading some photos of the leather.
-
I have a lead on a fortschritt skiver with table and clutch motor that used to be in an old factory that made firemen's hats in NYC. The buyer is asking $500 which seems to be a pretty fair price to me compared to cost of new chinese made machines. I saw it operational last night and it seems to be working reasonably well. My questions: Is there anything specific that I should look at that wears out over time? Belts and knife seem. Are fortschritt skivers interchangable with other skiver parts? Bell knife, feed wheel, etc? Are there any online resources that you can point me to in regards to maintainence/rebuild of this type of machine? Does $500 seem like a fair price? Thanks
-
Hi, Does anyone know where I can get my leather split and reduce the thickness?
-
Hi guys. I'm refurbishing a Manufacturers Supplies Co. "Combination Skiver" probably from the early 60s. I think it's a knockoff of a Fortuna bell knife machine, or even a rebadged Fortuna. I say that because it doesn't match any of Manufacturers Supplies Co.'s patents, and they have a few for different machines. I need the main head unit belt (not the 3 phase clutch motor drive belt) and serpentine belt dimensions. The owners manual only includes part numbers. After 4 calls with promises of follow up, Manufacturers Supply Co. (still in business in St. Louis) does not appear interested in either selling the parts or telling me their dimensions. I can't fault them for not stocking $10 parts for a 50 year old machine. So — I'd greatly appreciate it if anyone who has one of these or a similar Fortuna give me the dimensions of these belts so I can possibly avoid having to order 10 parts from McMaster to find the correct size. Thanks in advance.
-
Good morning. I have bought a building which had up until 3 years ago been operated as a leather shop. It has riveting machines, punch out machines, cutting machines, skiving machines, pretty much everything needed to manufacture horse halters, leashes. leads, etc. It not only has all the machinery, it has 1,000's of pieces of hardware (rivets, caps, o-rings, d-rings, square rings, buckles in numerous sizes (brass and nickel plated), most of the buckles, if not all, are made by a company called North & Judd. There is also 1,000's of pieces of hardward like snaps, latches, swivels, snap bolts, etc. And not to mention the 1,000's of pieces of inventory like chains for leashes, horse halters, dog collars, strips of leather which were never finished...well you get tthe idea. If anyone is interested in some of this, please let me know. We have just begun loading some of this stuff on eBay, but if someone in the business can use it that would be great. I am going to begin a Drop Box page with some of the pictures and will post an update shortly with that link. Thank you.
-
So a couple things happend during the construction of this wallet that I thought I might ask for help. Its my first real rolled edge wallet and Im really happy with how it came out but it could be better. Im hoping the links above worked to show you detailed photos of the wallet on my photobucket page. I will post my questions below... 1. Does anyone provide Skiving as a service or know where I can shop and buy a mechanical skiver in the Portland, OR area? (I wrecked 4 pieces of veg tanned to get the one that worked with a safety skiver) 2. If I wanted my top-stitch on the outside of the wallet I cant see what I'm sewing... so? I prefer the look of the top stitch on the outside so I don't get those "blowout punctures". 3. In this pic it shows the "bridge" of the wallet. I like the way it encourages the bend in the wallet but I am curious if it should be sewn or just rolled like I did. Please let me know what you think good and bad. Please be strict. I want to make them better in every way. -
I'm selling a Cobra C-4 leather sewing machine with electronic positioning. I've used it exactly once to test it out after I bought it 8 months ago. Needless to say, it's in brand new condition. For full specs please visit: http://www.leatherma...log.php?item=57. I'm also selling a new skiving machine: the Cobra NP-4, which I purchased with the C-4 sewing machine. For full specs please visit: http://www.leatherma...log.php?item=27. As it turns out, I will not be going into the leather business. They are large machines, so I will not be able to ship. I live in the Seattle area and you will need to pick them up if you want them. Priced to move: $2,100 for the sewing machine, $950 for the skiver. Perhaps less if you want both. Joel at (206) 310-3739.
-
Today I was skiving some leather and regrettably ruining more than successfully making I became frustrated and tried to mod my hand skiver... This is the skiver I'm working with... I removed the bottom plate like you would to change out a blade. I realized that the plane that the blade bends on is to slight for my liking and causes me to cut through my edge often times when a thin skive is required. So to improve the curve/plane that the blade bends on I wedged a piece of card stock in-between the blade and the handle. I also put a wedge of card stock on each side of the screws to compensate for wedge in the center of the blade. This helped to create a more drastic curve which I find much easier to control and I don't seem to cut so uncontrolled. Another idea I have for hand skiving would be to get a thin sheet of metal clamp it to my table so that I can have a surface to but the leather up against but have a raised plane from the table, hopefully acting like a guide for skiving. Thought this might be helpful for anyone struggling with skiving... Anthony Loughan http://lousleather.weebly.com http://facebook.com/lousfineleather
-
I want to know the order of operation in leather strap work. I am trying to start a business selling custom dog collars. I want them to be quality and I seem to run into some kind of problem with every step I take. Here is the method I have adapted to so far: (I will note some of the other problems to see if I can get some extra advice.) 1. Cut and skive the leather with super skiver- (can't really find the trick to making this an easy task) 2. Sand the edges and the raw side of leather (for comfort) with a sanding wheel on a drill press 3. Bevel the edges 4.. Punch holes, wet and stamp 5.. Dye with the color of choice - Fiebings oil based Cordovan dye, Fiebings acrylic antique medium brown stain or a zelikovits water based pigment pink dye (pink seems to have streaks where the color doesn't take no matter how many coats I add and rubs off easily) 6. Let dry for an hour or so then color the letters with sharpie for the stained collars, metallic markers or paint markers for the dyed collars(paint markers are difficult to make even and not globby and metalic markers seem to wear off a little) 7. Spray with leather sheen 8. Let dry for an hour or so then burnish the edges with glycerin and saddle soap or Quik Slick on a nylon slicker attached to the drill press. (I am not sure how long this is supposed to take but it seems like forever and I still never get glass smooth edges) - ordered a wooden burnisher made for a drill press so hopefully it will help. My other problem is that sometimes the edges seem to crack in certain spots mostly around the buckle within just a few days. I use quality herman oak leather. 9. touch up the edges with the same dye 10. condition with lexol conditioner. 11. add hardware Ok... so where I get mixed reviews is at what time to apply the finishes and the conditioner. I am so confused that I kind of change it up every time I make one so I don't know if the order of operation is contributing to any of my problems or not. OR if the order of operations needs to change depending on what base of dye and marker I am using. I have been told to condition right after you stamp and before you dye and let it sit over night. I have been told you always put any oils conditioners or saddle soap very last because other products wont penetrate. I have also been told it's super important to use the leather sheen finish before you finish the edges and within two hours of dying But if a water resistant finish is applied won't it seal the leather from absorbing any other products - like conditioners, edge burnishing products and touch up dye?? I feel like if I understood the chemistry behind all of these products I would have a rule of thumb So confused. Any advice would be excellent! Quote MultiQuote Edit -
I'm learning leather work and am interested to buy a skiving machine. I've looked at many online- Chinese, Italian, etc. What is the difference between bottom feed vs. top and bottom feed? I'm doing mostly bags and belts but want a machine that can grow with my skill set and interests. Does a heavy duty machine do lightweight to mid-weight material as well as a medium duty machine? Heavy duty machines seem to cost more. Do I pony up for a heavy duty machine so that I have that range in the future even though I don't need it now? What would you all buy? Is there a big difference between a Consew, Econosew or Cobra at $1,200 or thereabouts and a new Fortuna SM-50 or FAV AV2 for 4-5k? I'm interested to get a good machine and am willing to pay the price but wonder if it is necessary. What would you all buy?
-
Can Anybody Identify The Maker Of This Bech Splitter?
Logans Leather posted a topic in Leather Tools
Does anyone recognize this splitter? Can anyone tell e who made it? Do they make them still? Looks like it may be a one-off made in a machine shop, but made darn well! If I cannot find a maker nor any patent or licensing info on it, I may start having them reproduced. I have a great machinist here in town who can fabricate all the parts and will grind the blades, and one of the best blade makers/swordsmiths in the country is right here in town too(K.C. Lund) and he can do the heat treat on the 01 steel blades. We can even offer pattern welded (Damascus) blades if anyone wants to pay a ridiculous amount for one Let me know if y'all are interested, so I can look into whether or not it will be worthwhile to have these cranked out.
