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Hi, I'm relatively new to working with leather. I do beadwork and work mostly with tanned hides. I have a question.... I would like to stain an elk hide for a possibles bag (contemporary design) and would like to use some Mayan Blue pigment. I've done my research ... and all signs point to mixing the pigment with vodka for the best pigment dissolution and applying it to a dampened surface by vigorously rubbing it in. Then, let dry. Then buff (to remove excess pigment and rub in the stain) ... What would you recommend I seal it with? And will the dye rub off after it is sealed? My hide is very soft and I'd like to keep it that way. I plan to put the buff/sueded side on the interior and the skin side on the exterior. The skin side is what I'd like to stain. One site, Earth Pigments, recommends sealing with a fixative spray such as that which charcoal artists use. I'm not sure that will work for leather? The hide is very likely German Tanned since I got it from Crazy Crow. Not sure if that means it has been veg tanned....and how that will affect the pigment uptake. Thanks! Sue Mandel

Hi, I'm relatively new to working with leather. I do beadwork and work mostly with tanned hides. I have a question.... I would like to stain an elk hide for a possibles bag (contemporary design) and would like to use some Mayan Blue pigment. I've done my research ... and all signs point to mixing the pigment with vodka for the best pigment dissolution and applying it to a dampened surface by vigorously rubbing it in. Then, let dry. Then buff (to remove excess pigment and rub in the stain) ... What would you recommend I seal it with? And will the dye rub off after it is sealed? My hide is very soft and I'd like to keep it that way. I plan to put the buff/sueded side on the interior and the skin side on the exterior. The skin side is what I'd like to stain. One site, Earth Pigments, recommends sealing with a fixative spray such as that which charcoal artists use. I'm not sure that will work for leather? The hide is very likely German Tanned since I got it from Crazy Crow. Not sure if that means it has been veg tanned....and how that will affect the pigment uptake. Thanks! Sue Mandel

I am working on refurbishing my first pair of Chaps and I want to know the Best way of Dye/staining them back to the original colour (or close to) They are a pair dark brown riding chaps, and where the inner calf/thigh touch the saddle the colour has faded (yellowy) (rubbed away). I would like them coloured back to dark brown, BUT when riding in them I don't want the colour to rub off onto the saddle... ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Yesterday I applied two coats of Fiebings light brown oil dye--reduced with denatured alcohol at 1 to 1.5 ratio (dye to alcohol). It turned out beautiful on my practice scraps of the same leather, but very streaky on the piece (I'm making a travel bag btw). However, the same two coats look great on the straps from Springfield Leather (see below). The bag itself is leather from Tandy. I did wet form the bag and set in the sun for around 30 minutes, so I'm wondering if I underestimated how much this would dry out the bag? Does it simply need more coats? I did wet the piece before staining, but not heavily, and allowed to dry. Any and all help appreciated! Thanks! http://tinypic.com/r/8z4tbd/8 http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=6ztw1i&s=8

The title is pretty self explanitory. I am wondering how you darken natural leather without the use of dyes or stains. I have a dark brown dye. But to get an even coat without an air brush requires multiple coats and it darkens it a ton. How would I get a light brown color without dying or staining? I would prefer something that started out very light, maybe 2 or 3 shades darker than natural, and got darker with multiple applications. Thanks Zayne

Hey people . any one know how i get this effect on leather ? what kind of dye is used ? or what technique is used to apply it ?

What can be used to prime a very soft suede with a paint primer, so I can obtain an un-textured surface before the final coat (metallic paint)? The purpose is to separate the leather from the paint and to keep the characteristics of the paint (metallic) intact. Thank you! Nando

Hey, folks. I am looking for some insight on dyeing leather blue (a dark, navy blue). I use Tandy's Professional Waterstain for the majority of my dyeing, but I've noticed that the blue fades to a odd pale greenish color over time. The dye will be coloring the covers of longstitch books. My question is: Is there a blue dye/stain that any of you have found that doesn't do this, or do I simply have to deal with it? Thanks! - Lauren

I am having trouble getting even color coverage on my dyed pieces. I am using Angelus spirit based dyes thinned with denatured alcohol and I use a wool dauber to apply the dye. I always apply a VERY light coat of neetsfoot oil and let it dry before dying. I have no problem on narrow pieces where the dauber can cover the whole width in one stroke but on 1" and above I am having trouble because of having to make multiple passes. I have my dye thinned to the point where I can go over several times and get the color I want, but usually if I thin the dye too much for more passes the final color is watered and weak. Any suggestions? I don't have an air gun, and would much rather stick with hand applying the dye. here is a picture of the kind of streaking I am getting. It is not horrible but I really would rather have the color nice and even over the whole piece. Thanks in advance!

I have been doing some searching through forums history/archives in regards to painting & staining leather. I am doing some painting on leather and my question is about the staining. I've been using the Eco Flo All in One stains and more recently started using some of the Fiebings water based dyes in dark brown and chocolate as I prefer darker leather. My question is, how do I go about painting on those? I've noticed, especially with my white paints that they end up with a brown "tinge" to the white paint. In order to get rid of the tinge, it seems like I have to build up many many layers that possibly wouldn't be necessary if I could get rid of that tinge. I've tried deglazing my leather after staining but in order to get it "clean" enough to get rid of the tinge effect, I have to deglaze it so much that it really dries out the leather and gives it a gray haze. I've just been making some items for myself like spur straps, bracelets, etc. So they need to be able to flex and such without the paint cracking/flaking/peeling. So far I've had great luck with my paint but just seem to struggle with the stains & dyes bleeding through my paint. I would really like some advice on what I should do and would certainly appreciate the help. I have seen some people that paint their design on the unstained veg tan and then are able to stain after. I would imagine they would have to be using some kind of antique to do this as a liquid dye/stain wouldn't be very even if applied carefully around the design with a brush or wipe off the sealed painted area. I could really use some advice on this and would certainly appreciate any and all suggestions!

I've been using some of the fancy buckles from Tandy on some of my dog collars. It doesn't say what metal it's made of, but it's a silvery colour, so maybe nickel plated? I've noticed that the buckle leaves an ugly black stain where it touches the leather (see attached photo). How can this be prevented? Can the black be washed off? Is there a coating or something that can be sprayed in the buckle to prevent this? I've only used one of them for a collar I made for a family member, and this is the result. I'm concerned about using the same kind of buckle for customer orders.

Currently making a belt. When it came time for coloring, I [reluctantly] went with ecoflo stain because I have some from my original tandy kit and want to use the stuff up. Going on I was disappointed, because it was streaking something awful despite my best efforts. I thought, "perhaps it'll buff out". So I let dry overnight. Come back to buff, and while some color is coming off, the streaks and splotches are still extremely distinguished. I dont have a mechanical buffer, and my arm is getting tired, so I figure "hey, if the stain comes off with the tan kote, then at least I get to try again for less streaks." But it didn't come off. Well some did, my rag is now a pretty orangey brown (originally white), but it took away only the streaks and splotches. It actually evened out the entire stain job and lightened it a bit (good, for me. I thought it went a bit dark). Not only that: beforehand I had attempted to resist a couple spots of tooling with 2 layers of the kote, and when I had put the stain on was disappointed that the resist didn't work. Come post-stain tan kote, the resist areas lighten more than the rest (not all the way, but enough), and I'm finding myself pleased. So, sometimes tan kote taking some stain away is a good thing.

I want to know the order of operation in leather strap work. I am trying to start a business selling custom dog collars. I want them to be quality and I seem to run into some kind of problem with every step I take. Here is the method I have adapted to so far: (I will note some of the other problems to see if I can get some extra advice.) 1. Cut and skive the leather with super skiver- (can't really find the trick to making this an easy task) 2. Sand the edges and the raw side of leather (for comfort) with a sanding wheel on a drill press 3. Bevel the edges 4.. Punch holes, wet and stamp 5.. Dye with the color of choice - Fiebings oil based Cordovan dye, Fiebings acrylic antique medium brown stain or a zelikovits water based pigment pink dye (pink seems to have streaks where the color doesn't take no matter how many coats I add and rubs off easily) 6. Let dry for an hour or so then color the letters with sharpie for the stained collars, metallic markers or paint markers for the dyed collars(paint markers are difficult to make even and not globby and metalic markers seem to wear off a little) 7. Spray with leather sheen 8. Let dry for an hour or so then burnish the edges with glycerin and saddle soap or Quik Slick on a nylon slicker attached to the drill press. (I am not sure how long this is supposed to take but it seems like forever and I still never get glass smooth edges) - ordered a wooden burnisher made for a drill press so hopefully it will help. My other problem is that sometimes the edges seem to crack in certain spots mostly around the buckle within just a few days. I use quality herman oak leather. 9. touch up the edges with the same dye 10. condition with lexol conditioner. 11. add hardware Ok... so where I get mixed reviews is at what time to apply the finishes and the conditioner. I am so confused that I kind of change it up every time I make one so I don't know if the order of operation is contributing to any of my problems or not. OR if the order of operations needs to change depending on what base of dye and marker I am using. I have been told to condition right after you stamp and before you dye and let it sit over night. I have been told you always put any oils conditioners or saddle soap very last because other products wont penetrate. I have also been told it's super important to use the leather sheen finish before you finish the edges and within two hours of dying But if a water resistant finish is applied won't it seal the leather from absorbing any other products - like conditioners, edge burnishing products and touch up dye?? I feel like if I understood the chemistry behind all of these products I would have a rule of thumb So confused. Any advice would be excellent! Quote MultiQuote Edit

Help!! Being a noob to the whole staining/dyeing/finishing part of leatherwork, I took the Tandy Lady's advice and bought the little sampler pack of water-based Hi-Lite Stains by Eco-Flo. Tandy Lady said that I could just use the stain like the Fiebings dye I've used before, wipe it on, wipe it off, then finish with my choice of super shene, neutral shoe polish, resolene, whatever. So off to the races I went. Stain went on really nice, gave me a nice little antique-y look too. But now when I apply Super-Shene or Resolene the stain pulls right up off the leather, leaving almost no color on the leather. If I use my trusty old shoe polish, the stain starts to come up if it gets any water on it. I tried pulling out a spray bottle and spraying the Resolene on, we'll see how that one turns out. Is there a good way to finish this leather with the stain on it? Or will I have to pull it all off and find some dye then finish it?