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Found 135 results
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I was watching the Andrews Leather How too video and noticed that he stitches and does everything before he dyes/oils the leather. When I hand stitch my leather I do it after I color the leather so that I can keep the stitching white. How does he keep the stitches white when coloring his holsters? He said he uses a bonded Nylon, does that have any thing to do with it.
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Hi everyone, I am extremely new to leatherwork and all I can really learn from are videos and tutorials online. I feel like when I'm punching holes I end up tearing my leather, also that my stitching just never looks right. I would really like to make a wallet and I'm having an extremely hard time. Seems to be the only things I can make look good are purses with the hidden stitching inside!
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I am lacking expertise in leather making and would appreciate your comments. Exhibit A is showing the overall look of the bag. The whole bag is made of ~2 mm thick leather (easy to fold for storage). Shoulder straps are ~4 mm. Exhibit B shows the main problem with the front buckles: (i) they are too thin (~2 mm) and therefore bend (ii) they have no stitching on the edges further compromising the rigidity. It makes the buckle hard push through the loop, as it constantly bends, it also looks ... em "unfinished". Exhibits C and D also show "flaps" of the bag that have no stitching on the sides. Again, in my eyes, this makes the bag feel "unfinished", although I am not sure how functionally justifiable this intuition is. I am considering for asking for corrections to be made and would appreciate an unbiased professional opinion. -
I'm looking for a place/ supplier to get some high quality diamond hole stitching chisels (particularly around the 3 mm size). I've heard that some of the Japanese ones are great, but most of my internet searches seem to turn up cheap looking ones. Right now I'm using Craftool and Craftool Pro chisels and I just want to invest some $ in better quality chisels. To be clear, I'm looking for stitching chisels that punch diamond shaped holes, not lacing chisels that punch slits. If anyone knows a high quality brand or a source that sells some top notch chisels, please let me know. Thank you! -
Hello Folks, Looking to pick at the knowledge base. I did up a long wallet from template and used my diamond hole chisel on the inside and then used the diamond shaped awl to push through the remaining layers. (Up to 4 in some areas). The awl pushed through easy enough but the end project obviously had ascetic issues due to the tear out on the leather. Awl was sharp and did not really bind up as I pressed it through the layers. Leather was very low in the stitching horse. I wanted to ensure minimal movement. I had concerns with the holes lining up on the various thicknesses so I was of the mindset, this was the way to best line up my holes. Any suggestions to keep this from happening again? Thank you.
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Ok, so lets try and explain this the best way possible: I am somewhat experienced with leather working and have made numerous knife sheaths, belts, holsters, etc which as you know requires some fairly thick leather (6-10 oz). I don't however, have any experience when it comes to the thinner (4-6oz) range. Here is where my questions comes in.....I am currently putting together patterns for small wallets, notepad holders, moleskin covers. This uses 4-5oz leather. The needles that I have along with the waxed nylon thread are way to big for such a thin leather. I don't want such a large hole and such thick thread (seems to alter the edge too much when punched or drilled). How can I find out what I see people always using on wallets (hand stitching that is) that looks like a really small needle and thread? By the way I use diamond punches just to get started and then I use my awl or a drill bit and that way I can make a custom size hole. Example: Lets say I make a small leather notepad holder (3x5) and I am stitching the flap that holds the pad in place. With the leather being so thin and more fragile than 10oz, I think the thread looks way to big and bulky up against it. Any suggestions? Needle size? thread size? where you find your stock? I have attached a pic of a pocket sheath that I sell and its really popular, this is an example of using thick (10oz) leather and how the stitching looks good with that size and thckness, however would way too big for half that on 4-5oz leather. Thanks, Luke
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Harness Repairing 1921 PDF Download 47 M
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Hello All!!!! New to Leatherworker.net and I am in need of a Teacher for Leatherwork. I am interested in making horse tack, purses, belts, knife sheaths etc..etc.. I have the tools i just need some direction. I have basic leather tooling, stamping, dyes and paint down pretty well. I need help with assembly of projects Ie: Stitching, hardware, measurements, backings.... I need someone to instruct me while i do it myself since i dont learn well from just watching. I am willing to travel 2 hours from scottsdale to take lessons and pay whatever you charge. I have all basic tools to bring with me. Thanks Much- Samantha -
Hello Everyone, Here i listed my favorite tools that i've been using for most of my project and have served me well and never disappoint me, A Vergez Blanchard 7 spi, 8 teeth, i'm polishing it twice a month and only shows a little usage, original packaging is still available and intact. I wish to sell it because i'm in some sort of economical problem and wish to settle things down first, attached is some images and some samples... Griffe a Frapper a Dents No. 7, 8 Dents Number 7 (Seven Teeth per Inch), Ten Teeth 1 1/2" width from first to last tooth 5 1/2" length point n° 07 = 3,85 mm increment I'm asking for $120 excluding shipping.. Item will be sent from Indonesia with international registered airmail from my post office... Shipping would normally takes 2-4 weeks depending on locations and weather... Thank you very much! Items will be shipped 1 business day after payment received. I prefer paypal or western union... But willing to accept other method as well.. If you have any question regarding this item, please feel free to contact me, Sorry for my bad english, Thank you very much!
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I just received my Cobra class 4:) never owned or even used a sewing machine before. its a challenge, but what I would like to know is, how do I make using this easier? I hand stitch everything, so when I received my tax return, I bought the cobra. no telling when an opportunity would allow me another chance, so I jumped. is there any advice on practices or even places that instruct on this matter:) I have tons of crap, and soon that will run out at the rate I'm going. I only ask, because I really don't want to learn poor habits, instead id like advice of some good habits to build on. Thank you:)
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Hi All, TL;DR: Is there a non-painful way to hand-stitch a hidden seam on an article you can't just stitch and then turn inside-out? I'm musing about making a holster for my Browning Buck Mark .22 target pistol, and there's just something about WW2-style holsters that enchants me--the big foldover flap, integral mag pouch, etc. Most holsters of this style follow this generic pattern: Notably, the mag pouch is creased and then stitched quite closely to its edge, no doubt by machine. Yesterday I came across this image for a Czech Army holster, and I notice that all of the seams are tucked under: I have done a pocket or two using Ann Stohlman's trick of poking a tiny "gopher hole" in the outer layer every 10 stitches or so, so the needles can come up and through, but you keep the hole hidden by turning around and stitching right back down through it. As you get further from the gopher hole the awl and needle must pierce at ever increasing angles, so eventually you jump ahead another 10 stitches and make a new gopher hole. Right now the only way I can think to hide all of the seams is to stitch one side open-faced, then fold it over, stitch the bottom through the open side, and then gopher-hole the last side. Is there an easier way to do this? Thanks! Dave
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I've searched these forums and lots of other web resources for hand-sewing techniques to little avail... so I'm starting thread in the hopes others here will contribute their expertise and experience. Sometimes you want or need to handsew something and a saddle or whip stitch just isn't what you want. I looked for a long time without much success which leads me to believe this is either: 1) So simple caveman did it. Or 2) We think everyone just knows this stuff!!! Forgive me if this falls into either of the above two categories but when I started I didn't know how to do this. (Disclaimer: I lay no claim to the following's invention or development other than to offer it up here as a useful technique and hope that others will add more.) Bar X Stitch As always, begin at the beginning: Layout Wing divider 1/4" (Over)Stitch Wheel 5 spi Punch (make some holes) Hand Punch Awl Needle and thread #4 harness needles. How much thread? I use the “8x2” method. 8 wraps around front and back of the sewing line (front AND back being the “2”) rather than 16 times the stitch line it’s quicker for me. Use whatever works for you though. First Stitch Both needles through from the back; in this case the flesh side and pull even the thread length. Next we take the right needle (it doesn’t matter which needle you choose but be consistent! Do each complete stitch exactly as each previous stitch.) You can begin with a tie by taking each needle into the opposite threaded hole and back out its original hole from the fleshside if you like but I haven’t here (see last images). Step 1 of Stitch Okay… NOW we take the right needle into the 2nd left diagonal hole and back out its opposite (straight across) right hole. Step 2 of Stitch Next we take the left needle (the needle being used is always the one in the frame) into the diagonal right hole and back out its opposite left hole. This makes the “X” (remember the needle in the frame is the needle we just used) (Backside view) This is the “Bar”. Notice the two threads overlap on this side. Pull thread snug to tight on the flesh side. Next Stitch Repeat steps 1 and 2. What it looks like front and back. I’ve transitioned to simple X stitch to show the differences. “Bars” on one side, “X”s on the other gives us Bar-X. It’s extremely strong especially for curve binding. The key to making this stitch is “don’t let go of that needle once you begin a stitch until the needle is back topside” and always begin your next stitch with the same needle left or right. If you are working around a form or a long run curved needles do help. This example has a “tie” at the top and bottom. To finish and to paraphrase Socrates: “I myself know nothing, just a little, enough to extract discussion from another, who is wise and will receive it fairly.” Please add a stitch to complete this thread… (yeah, I know…. that's punny )
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Hi guys! I admire the bags, which have this kind of round lace in the stitching between the leather sides, but Im wondering how I pratically do the work. I guess it functions as protection/decoration, but I can't exactly figure out how its done and what the name for this is called I have attached a pic of an example I hope anyone have some knowlegde on this area - no matter what then thanks!! Have a nice weekend:) Frederik -
Hi Everyone, I've been learning so much from this forum - thank you! I have a recurring problem with my bag straps that I am hoping you all can help me with: I am using an English point strap end punch from Weaver Leather to make the ends of my bag straps. I use a 1" punch on a 5/8" wide strap because I like the more obtuse angle that it creates at the end. . . problem is I can NEVER get this thing to perfectly center, and my two curved wings are almost always just slightly lopsided. I am a perfectionist, so the littlest bit of unevenness bothers me. . . but it also becomes a problem because then I attach the strap to the exterior bag by edge stitching (with my machine) around the perimeter of the strap end. . . so any lopsidedness really becomes apparent. Does that make any sense? I have tried making end punch/stitching templates out of scrap leather straps, and this works okay, but is still not totally foolproof. . . Does anyone have any tips or words of wisdom when it comes to quickly centering that strap end punch, and also stitching evenly around that point? I'm so tired of wasting precious strap leather! Thank you all so much for sharing your knowledge! -
Hello, I bought a Pfaff 345, unfortunately I've got a small problem with the stitching legth adjustment. I can't turn the knob stronger than 2mm. Does somebody knows how to solve that problem. In the pictures you can see the longest and the smallest length adjustment, possible at the moment. Thank you. Regards, Oakley
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Hey guys, I want to get more into handstitching, especially on bag handles.. Right now my handstitching doesn't look great. I've heard there are some pricking or stitching irons that you can use to punch the holes as well (as opposed to marking the leather then using an awl). I have a set which I've been using like that, but the holes don't look as clean as I'd like.. Does anyone have a recommendation for some pricking irons that would work for punching clean holes? Affordable is a plus! I'd love to know what you expert stitchers are using.. Thanks!
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I bought a "finished double shoulder 5oz" [Tandy #9048-60] to make my wife a tote bag, and am trying not to mess up. I have two questions: 1) Should I glue the seams? I have Barge that I've used for wallets, but I'm afraid I won't be able to line it all up correctly. If I'm going to hand stitch it, will the glue make it considerably stronger? Thoughts? 2) If the product says finished, should I add some finish to protect it further? I just made some homemade dubbin with olive oil, almond oil, vitamin e oil and beeswax. If I do add the dubbin, how long do I have to wait? How much should I apply? Thank you so much for the assistance. I just started working with leather less than a week ago, and there are SO many choices/questions.
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I've been doing a lot of reading gearing up for my first real project and I had just a few newbie questions! First off, I've read about gluing edges of leather and then stitching but I've also read about 'sticky wax' (still browsing recipes for that) and how that 'locks' the stitch into place. Do you do both or just one or the other? I'd like to work with linen and possibly mess with some artificial sinew. Secondly, if I were to sew a soft bag, like a pouch, would using the sticky-wax route for a strong stitch be the best route or would that possibly make the seam too stiff for a soft bag (like a belt pouch sort of thing). Thanks in advance everyone, this forum is just a treasure trove of information, I've been reading for hours :D
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I have recently tried to get into leather working. i wanted to get a very small stitch on my bags (as i have seen many profesional companies using such stitches) and i wanted to know if this is possible. I have been researching into Hermes and their bags and they seem to be using very small pricking tools and stitches. However when i went to Tandy Leather the guy there told me to instead use a 4 hole punch because if i didnt the bag wouldnt be strong enough. Any Tips?
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Hi everyone! I am trying to bind two pieces of leather with either a single cross stitch (X) or a star stitch (*). The picture below gives you an idea what I am talking about. I know how to make a continuous cross stitch, as you would for wrapping leather around a steering wheel, for example, and I can try that principle for a single stitch, but I feel that there is no way to do it without ending it in a knot, which I am not keen on doing. Any ideas how to avoid that, or advice on a smooth, unobtrusive way to end the stitch? Also, when I cut holes with a pricking iron or a stitching awl I get an unattractive \ / on top and / \ on the bottom and the thread just bunches on one end of the hole. Is it better to poke a round hole with my scratch awl or stamp a small one with a hole bunch you think? Any advice, resources, experiences would be much appreciated
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Hi, Ive been looking into the pricking irons sold on http://www.bowstock.co.uk but wasn't sure on the quality. If anyone has bought from them, some advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Photos if possible. -
So I bought a few Tandy patterns and decided to finally get going with a large back quiver. I've already screwed up in that I burnished the edges before dying, whoops. Guess I was too eager to use my new burnisher. I'm posting pics in order, hopefully I'll have the whole thing finished up soon. I designed a celtic-knot style arrowhead, didn't want to go too crazy with complexity but wanted something interesting to go below the pouch. Used a backgrounder around the arrow and along the edges of the quiver, the leather has some flaws in it that I hope will be disguised at least a bit by that. I wanted to try out some more of my stamps though, so I made a "vine" by going back and forth with a thin scallop edge tool and stuck some leaves on each of the joins. Thought it turned out better than it had any right to, really. Then the dying, I almost went with green but figured I'd save that for another day. I like how much the arrow pops out now.
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I think this is the first real thing I'm proud of producing. Used 2/3oz Hermann Oak Vegtan, Fiebings Pro Walnut Dye, and Brown .6 Ritza 25. Man how the lighting affects the color in the picture... -
Hi, I have read the great pricking irons reviews, many thanks for all information you provided Nige ! I decided to give a try and order either Seiwa or Craft Sha stitching chisel and try it. I have a couple products from goodsjapan and I must say I'm quite satisfied with them. I'd like to hear your opinion which one brand to choose. Best regards, J.
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I think I could use some help here. Recently removed the round point needles that came in the Techsew 4100 machine I purchased, and installed Organ 794 LR Size 230/26 with white 277 thread. First round was a complete disaster, finally managed to get the results shown in the photos. Not certain it is what it should be though, and I can't say that I'm happy with it. Any suggestions on what I should be doing to get this to be a better stitch? Also looks like it is blowing out the back, not a clean exit. One row is just with the needle, the second row has the thread.
