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Just one more "attaboy" for Bob Kovar. Talked to Bob by phone on Friday. Thread in my hand on Monday. And it was THE thread I asked for -- not "something" plus a speech about how he'll "make it right". For those old enough to have forgotten, or those young enough they've never seen it, THIS HERE is customer service -- send the customer what they asked for, at the advertised price, in a reasonable amount of time. Sending the wrong goods, or billing problems, or slow response.. an offer to "fix" the problem the supplier caused is not 'customer service' -- it's 'damage control'. I ordered thread, not a fancy pile of bull poo. And thread is what I received, so thanks again, Bob ...

Hi, I have watched "Saddle Stitch in Detail by Armitage Leather" on Youtube. As I am left handed, I am interested in using Z twist thread and Left handed sewing. I have some question. In saddle stitch, Does the "left hand priority" mean sewing with left hand? If it does..., would using Z twist thread be a better choice?

So I got a Singer 4452 Heavy Duty machine. I can sew cloth great but I want to sew light 2oz to 4oz leather. I don't know what size or weight thread to use or where to acquire it. Anyone have any experience with this machine or a similar one and what heavy thread and type is the best to use. Any ideas on where to find a comparison of needle size to thread? I don't think using the waxed thread is a good idea, I tried and it doesn't slide through very easy, besides I think I used to thick of a thread. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

I did a bit of shopping on Amazon for some summer ciders, and they arrived in these cute little protective jackets. As soon as I saw them I just knew what their alternative use was. Here's a piccie for you

When winding bobbins the thread off the cone results in a tangled twisted mess, even if I force the cone to unwind from the side like a spool. I made a separate bobbin winder powered with a sewing machine motor, but it works just like the stock winder. The thread is Nylon - Size 138 - Beige #2 (Fil-Tec #111) - Monocord - Nominal 16 Oz Spool - 2950 Yards

i have a cobra 4 machine and would like to add an lube pot to lubricate the bonded nylon... i saw one that weaver leather sells , but can't get it through them.. thought about trying to make one... John Bianchi had one on his Ferdco 2000 sewing machine in his holster making DVD...anyone know where i could find one...

Hey all, Just wondering what size (mm) tiger thread is recommended for 8 spi. I read a post that suggested .8 mm for 8 spi. Just wondering if anyone else has tested this. I am currently using tandy's craftool pro 8 spi chisel. What would be the advantages/disadvantages of going smaller to say, .6 mm thread? Thanks! Zayne

How do you end the thread so it doesn't come out of the holes. I wrapped the end a few times on my straps and the end came out already. I back stitch on other parts of the bags. But the ends of the strap I wanted to wrap to protect the points from opening. Maybe a dot of glue?

Guys what do u think about this thread? New sajou Fil Au Chinois "Lin Cable"#432 and the best neadles to work with him? Regards

Hi, I have a relatively simple leatherworking job that I'm looking to offer to someone either in/near Norfolk, Virginia, or Portland, Oregon (I live in VA, but the majority of my business is located in OR). I have a straightforward wallet design that I need someone to construct. I'm considering two methods of manufacture. 1) Having the leather laser-cut (including stitch holes) and then hand sewn. 2) Having the wallets die-cut and sewn by machine. Either way, the requirements will be relatively basic. If you live in or near Virginia or Oregon, and have an interest in this work, please let me know by personal message. Further, if you have contact information for someone or some business that may be interested in this work, please forward it to me. FYI, this job probably will not begin for the next few months, but I'm trying to get things in order now. Also, I'm currently at sea with the US Navy, so my response time may be delayed. Thanks!

Hi Everyone, Warning: Complete Newb. For the past 6 years or so I've had a desire to learn leatherwork. I love well-made leather products and since I've got fair hand eye coordination I finally want to give a go. I've been trying my best to read as much as possible about the various thread types, leather types, sewing machines, etc. I had contacted a guy on Etsy a few days ago who does great work and he imparted some advice which was "First, know what kind of projects you want to take on" and "Start with hand sewing to see if you like it." Seems logical. So having given this some thought, I'd like to start perhaps with a bag, like a possibles bag, and maybe belts, and then more elaborate bags with linings, pockets, sections, etc. I want to use premium materials in my items. I'm from Chicago originally (home of Horween) but I live in the UK these days (London). I could really use some good advice because I'm finding myself overloaded with info researching this on my own. 1. What is the best leather (and/or canvas) to use for a mens bag, like a possibles bag and/or satchel? I've received some samples from a Scottish mill of some wax canvas up to 24oz which seems to be a reasonable material. 2. Can someone explain, or post a link to a good source, on thread thicknesses, how they're categorized and their applications? i.e. what is a good thread "gauge" and type to use in a bag application. I've read Polyester is the best weatherproof thread out there. 3. What kind of lining would be good for a bag, if any? Would a tartan wool work well? Are linings typically glued in (if so, what type of glue)? or stitched in? 4. If I'm doing this by hand, what is the best needle to use? Are there specific leather or canvas type needles out there? and do they match up with the thread thickness somehow? 5. Let's say I go a sewing machine route. What are some good sewing machine types / brands that I should consider? I've done a bit of research on this and whilst some people suggest a vintage Singer 201K, others seem to use much more industrial and robust machines like a Techsew. I've seen some amazing videos by Arthur Porter. And Wizcraft's posts stand out on this forum. Amazing. 6. Any really good classes, books, or online bag making tutorials out there that are recommended? I know this is a load of questions and anyone answering doesn't need to address them all. I suppose I'm looking for a general "approach" to this whole thing and to understand if there are any "rules" involved. Thanks so much, and apologies for the long post. Any and all advice you can throw my way is appreciated. Kind Regards, Geo

hi This is MAKR round wallet I've been checking serafil, Gutermann, Vinymo MBT was not Twist is uniform and looks like the end of molten fibers maybe... chemical Bonding thread? What's the name of thread? Does anyone know this? Sorry, English is not proficient

I apologize ahead of time for another thread question but I have been reading continously for 3 days and can't find the answers I am seeking and need some advice. I even called Campbell-Randall and they couldn't answer my question. I can't find out what the difference between #6, or #5 and 18/3 or 18/4 and what size is 207? Then there are all the needle sizes. one place a size is 00 and someplace else it is a different #??? I bought some Barbour #6 ($50 worth) and then ordered some John James #2 needles but don't think the two are compatible?? So if there is a chart or someone could point me to the right post, my sanity would be forever grateful. I love these forums and Nigel's video's but I'm over educated for my intelligence and need some advice. Thank you so so much in advance.

Hey guys, im going to start making some wallets and have a question on thread. I'm going to buy some Hermann oak veg tan and machine stitch some card holders. I have a consew 206rb. I'm wanting to get 138 thread in a natural color to go along with the color of the vegtan, but so far I've only been finding poly and not nylon (in natural color). I've read what they're both used best for, but I just want to know that my consew can in fact sew out poly?? Also, can natural poly thread hold dye? I'll be doing some patinas eventually as well. Also, does anyone have tips on how I can make sure my stitches look good on the back as well as the front? I've never sewn anything over v69. Pic is for reference, it's not my work, just the finish I'll be looking for! Thanks!

What a good thread would be for western saddle repair?

I just got a Pfaff 145 which takes G bobbins.. Does anyone know if/where I can purchase empty G bobbins that I can wind myself to match thread? Or, does anyone know of a an online retailer where I can buy #69 nylon or poly thread with matching prewound G bobbins? Thanks for any advice!

Hi all, I have a Juki Manufactured Econosew Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine with a Servo-Speed Motor. I've only had it a few months and I'm finding the tension to be very difficult to get correct. I have zero experience with industrial machines, especially for leather, so I've been having to figure it out as I go. I live pretty remotely so there's no one near who can come over and show me the ropes. I've spent hours and hours and hours adjusting the top and bottom tensions and I have yet to get it perfect. I discussed this with my mother in law who is a sewing machine genius (but sadly lives across the country) and she suggested that it could be the wrong needle and thread size for the weight of leather I use. Prior to getting the machine I researched here on the forum for needle and thread size for leather and was told to use needle size 22/140 and lubricated nylon thread size 138. However, I think the error is that those are for thicker and heavier leathers. I primarily need the machine for lightweight soft leathers and suedes. Think upholstery weight and sometimes even garment weight. Should I use a smaller needle? Different thread? The lubricated thread I got from http://www.tolindsewmach.com/ seems too slippery for what I sew and also too thin. I'd like thicker thread for the aesthetic. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated. Tired of spending hours and getting nowhere.

Hi, I believe this is my first post, exciting! I am a pure hobbyist putting in hours on leather projects when I'm not to tired from work and kids and whatnot. Based in Sweden, btw. My question is if anyone of you leather gurus here have any good tips on how I should think when I combine stitch length and thread size (and leather thickness)? Every time I think I have figured out what will look good, it often doesn't turn out the way I want. Are there any general rules? I'm starting to think I should move towards pricking iron and awl, even though that's more expensive equipment and more difficult to do... Cheers, Anders

Hello, I am working on the tensioning of my consew 206rb-5 I have two images here, one of the top side and one of the bottom. To me - a novice on a machine like this - the top is looking good, but the bottom thread appearance seems off? My first thought is to tighten tension for the top thread? It is already pretty tight though - enough that it is very difficult to pull the piece out when the stitch is doen, I have to manually pull some thread from the tensioner then my leather can be removed from below the needle. Thanks!

Hello, I am setting up my consew 206rb-5 to handle some 138 thread with a 22 needle. I am having an issue with the top thread getting caught below somewhere on the top of the bobbin case or holder or who knows, but it will only do maybe a stitch or two then start shredding. Bobbin thread seems fine though. - I did thread the needle left to right - I am holding thread tight for first few stitches - Bobbin is thread so when you pull it rotates counter clockwise. -Tensions seem ok, but who knows Any ideas? One other weird thing that may or may not be related. Even without this thread problem (without thread in the machine) the handwheel is very hard to operate. I usually have to put my foot a little on the pedal while using my hand to pull the wheel. Does that seem a bit odd? Thanks for the help!

I assume I can sew #69 thread on my Cobra 4, but I am not sure of the correct needle - something like 110/18 or 120/19? I usually use 794S or LL points with larger thread and needles, but I cannot seem to find a source for this needle system and smaller size. Any suggestions on size and supplier?

I need a little help with my thread size here. I have been using the Tejas waxed thread from Tandy for a while now. The main problem with it is it's a little heavy on the wax. I don't know the size as it doesn't say on the spool, and there is no size in the description in the catalogue. I would like to try some tiger thread but don't know what size to get. I am usually working six stiches per inch on two or three layers of 8 oz leather. Can anyone give me a suggestion as to what size of Tiger thread to use? I live in the NWT Canada so I have to order everything in, can't go to the store and take a look. Thanks for your help.

I apologize, i might not be using the correct terminology here. Tonight my Cowboy 3200 developed a problem over the course of an hour. I didn't make any adjustments or changes, so I'm not sure what happened. It started out with the bobbin just hanging inexplicably and not letting any thread feed off of it, so I cleaned out any dust and debris and lightly oiled. Now, when I sew, the thread just keeps wrapping around the bobbin.shuttle and I have to cut it off. I've been trying to figure it out for the last 2 hours. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Gary

I have way more thread than I expect to ever use, so I need to sell some off. I will sell it in 25 yard cards, , and I will select the lowest cost shipping I can find at the time I mail it, unless you request otherwise. If you have a small project that needs only a small amount of thread, or you want to try out a new color without buying an entire spool, this is a great way to get some! Tiger Thread, Ritza 25 Bonded Polyester 0.6MM $6/25 yards plus shipping in the following colors: Purple Orange Havanna Cigar Cream Tiger Thread, Ritza 25 Bonded Polyester 1.4MM $5/25 yards plus shipping in the following color: Yellow Coats Barbour linen thread, $5/25 yards plus shipping: Size 18/3 in white size 25/3 in Brown Size 35/3 in Black I have other colors/sizes coming in a few weeks, so they will be available also: Tiger Thread, Ritza 25 Bonded Polyester 0.8MM $6/25 yards plus shipping: Cream (JK6) Orange (JK247) Beige (JK2) Tiger Thread, Ritza 25 Bonded Polyester 1.0MM $6/25 yards plus shipping: Bishop (JK122) PM me with your requests! YinTx Black (JK23)

Newbie here in need of clarification/direction. I've read lots and lots and lots of stuff about Tiger thread (and like everyone else in the world watched Ian A. and Nigel A. use it on their videos). It seems like it's hard to find in US without buying short lengths for a huge mark-up. So if I don't bother with Tiger thread, what else should I get to use with saddle stitching by hand (no machine). I currently use the Tandy waxed nylon thread they said I should buy to start with. This is what I have: https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/1227-02.aspx . It appears to have three small threads to form the main thread. It's been okay as my starter thread (I have in all three amazing colors - white, black, and brown) but now that I'm better at stitching, I'm ready to get some better stuff next time. What I like about it - prewaxed is easy and I'm fearful of my ability to know how much wax to apply if I get unwaxed. What I don't like about it - seems sort of thick for what I'm making which have been journal covers (these projects really show how much my stitching is improving though , pouches, some not-so-great wallets, basic beginner stuff, nothing heavy duty like sheaths. I'm also wondering if I'm doing something wrong, I'm being picky, or it's just the thread but it seems sort of "furry" after stitching. Definitely not frayed or anything, but I thought the wax would keep it "neater" and less feathery. How do you know how thick thread is? I've read there are different thoughts on linen vs. nylon. So if someone recommends a good thread, what harness needles to use with it? I am soooo confused with the harness needle numbering system. I've gathered that I should get John James which I know SLC carries. Seems JJ needles will do an adequate job and I think the prices are okay for my budget. Some places say UK sizing of JJ needles are different from US. I understand that I should use the smallest needle that I can, but isn't that dependent on the thread (which as I said above I don't know how to determine its thickness/weight/or whatever is the correct term for it)? So how do I "match" them? I have to mail order it sight unseen. http://springfieldleather.com/20059/Needle%2CHarness%2C%2200%22Med%2C5pk/ Finally, I can't believe what sharpening my awl did for me!! I'm sure I didn't even do it "right" or as long as I should have. I watched the Nigel A. video on sharpening. Since I don't have sharpening stones, I bought a variety pack of fine wet/dry sandpaper (400,800,1000,1200 grits). I used it dry since I thought adding sharpening oil would leave residue on the leather even after wiping. I finished by stropping with the jewelers' rouge that came with my starter Tandy set. So I have two questions here about awls. First, is there an affordable sharpening stone set for awls or should I stick with sandpaper for now? I'm grinning at the idea that my awl could be even better with the right tools. Seems like I can find lots of stuff for sharpening swivel knife blades but not the diamond shaped awl. Second, how does the awl size work with the needle/thread size choices? [As a side note, I wanted to order from SLC an Osbourne haft (there are 3 choices - which one? http://springfieldleather.com/24630/Awl%2CHaft%2CPalm/) and Osbourne blade (a bunch of sizes - which one? http://springfieldleather.com/16526/Blade%2CAwl%2CHarness%2C1-3-4%22/) to use as my primary awl and use the somewhat sharpened Tandy awl as my backup so if I'm getting new thread and needles, this is a good time to get a coordinating awl set-up.] And just in case this makes any impact on the advice above, I am using Tandy's Pro Line Diamond Stitching Chisels (I have 2mm in 2 and 4 prong versions and 3mm in 2 and 4 prong versions https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/88044-02.aspx). I pound in the chisel but not all the way through all the layers of leather. I use the awl to open one hole at a time and stitch. I'm slow but following my Al Stohlman book instructions (Don't put the awl down between stitches So I guess I'm assuming thread steers the size decisions for all the other things, but maybe I have that backwards. I know this is a really long post but I wanted to provide as much information as possible to hopefully help someone help me. This is my first post and I want to say thank you for all of you that have been posting such great information that I've been reading. Whenever I jump on the forum, it's like I get to go to a really awesome leather "class" anytime I want.