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Showing results for tags 'tooling'.
Found 193 results
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Hello All, I have been working on some new tooling and would like to get your feedback on things that could be improved. I thought it turned out well but as always all of us are smarter than one of us. This is my version of a lace cutter. It does both 90 degree cuts and 45 degree bevels. The main bar is 1" steel and about 5" long. I use a shaft collar for quick and repeatable width adjustments. It is attached by bolts or can simply be clamped to your table. there is no wobble in the fitting of any components and its very solid. The main shaft rotates so the angle of the bevel can be facing the collar or away from the collar. I tried to do two things. One is to make it small enough that it could be out all the time without taking up too much space on the bench while being large enough to be very enjoyable to use. Second, I spent some time sourcing off the shelf components so as to keep the price down. I hope the pic resolution is high enough to see the details. Anyways, thanks for looking. Josh
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After 25ish years of not doing any, I finally took the plunge on a tooling project. I'm making a tri-leg stool and this is the seat. Now I'm studying all there is is to study about antiquing and really hoping I don't screw it up. Please feel free to offer any opinion you may have on how to finish this thing.
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Hi there everyone. I am just getting into leather work, and really want to start tooling. I bought a pretty cheap swivel knife with a set of stamps, and have found it extremely difficult to cut with. I have to push on it very hard to get a cut, and it gets stuck and drags. It also doesn't leave a very wide V cut as it should. I have sharpened it very well but to no avail. I think the blade is just cheap. So my question is, what is a good blade for floral carvings? I was looking at the Barry King ones because I heard they were good. I don't know much about the different kinds though, and what thickness should I be looking for? Also, not sure what will work with my knife, the blade I currently have is held in with a set screw. Not sure if the size of the piece that goes into the barrel can be different or anything. Thanks so much in advance! I'm excited to get into tooling, and have a lot of projects I want to start, but it's hard when I can't get my swivel knife to cut.
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Hello, So, I've been wanting to SEE a good comparison between Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig, there is a lot of people somewhat DESCRIBING the differences (or lack thereof), but I have not found anyone having actually documented it with photos/video. So, I received some swatches from W&C the other day, and decided I'd upload some pictures for reference. I have been only using Grade A Hermann Oak (yes, true Grade A). I was excited to hear that Wickett & Craig's tooling leather is lighter in color, and that they have no minimums straight from the tannery! I have to say, though; I am a little concerned with the flesh side quality of the swatch I received. The big thing I've taken away from HO's Grade A tooling leather is that the flesh side is always very tight and the fibers seem to be very short and consistent across the back. I was hoping that would be the case for Wickett & Craig's top grade leather, but the quality isn't quite the same for the flesh side. The flesh side of the W&C tooling swatch seems to be looser, the fibers seem to be a bit longer and inconsistent. Not a HUGE difference, but a difference, nonetheless. Now, I wrote the sales manager regarding the quality, assuming that the swatches that they used were just from scraps and aren't of their "Standard" or "Top grade" quality. The response I received was this: "The flesh will not be a problem Zayne. I'm sure it is just where they clicked the swatch?" Im not exactly sure that means, but I'm assuming it has something to do with them cutting out the swatch with a press, and it just doesn't seem like thats what would have caused the flesh side to be the way that it is. Anyway, have a look at the photos I uploaded. Again, I don't know for sure if the tooling swatch W&C sent me is factually top grade, but the sales manager didn't say that it was or wasn't when I asked him, hence the response. So, I'm assuming that the swatch I was sent IS their top grade, unless one of you can prove me wrong! In one of the pictures, I included the flesh side of the "Oak Skirting" swatch I was sent with all the other swatches from W&C. The flesh side of this one really scares me. It reminds me of the first cheap side of leather I purchased from Tandy. I'm really hoping this isn't W&C's "Standard" quality. Please prove me wrong! P.S.- I am in no way trying to throw shade at Wickett & Craig, I actually do prefer the lighter color of their tooling leather compared to Hermann Oaks. I'm really just looking to provide some information and hopefully gain some insight in return.
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For anyone who might be interested, it's not too late sign up. I still have a few seats left in some of the workshops and I will be accepting walk-ins, first come first serve for any remaining seats. Contact the Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal for more info (715) 362-5393. This is GREAT SHOW in a beautiful facility. Feb 21-26. Don't miss your chance to see a great variety of vendors under one roof. And be sure to stop by my booth, located in the foyer, and say hello! See you there!!! y
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A commissioned wallet.
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Hey all! I've only been working with leather for just under a year but I've taken to it rather quickly and I'm really loving it, especially leather carving and tooling - likely due to my past experience with woodcarving - but I'm really having a hard time using background tools properly. I can't seem to figure out how to blend the impressions of the background stamps cleanly, or how to keep the color in the the background consistent - some spots are always a bit more bruised and dark than others even though I try to keep the pressure of my strikes uniform. I would really appreciate any tips, advice, pointers and/or links to videos and tutorials. I've watched a lot of youtube vids but can't seem to find anything that really helps me in this department. Thanks so much! I look forward to learning from everyone here. Meg
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Wedding Guestbook/Memory Book/Journal Cover
bland posted a topic in Books, Journals and Photo Albums
I recently my wife asked me to make a wedding guestbook for my daughter's wedding. She didn't give me much lead time so I pushed some things a little hard. It is 5/6 oz veg tan except for pockets in front cover that is 3 oz veg tan that was quite soft which caused me some problems in stitching and edging. It is dyed Fiebrings British Tan. I had to re glue the edge of the 3 oz leather after stitching as it pulled up in some spots I think I got it down pretty good. The tooling on the back is not quite symmetrical. I'm still saddle stitching everything. Let me know what you think. Here are a couple more photos. -
I'm going to start a large project. I'm going to create an armor and a shield. I have a detailed tooling design that I really like and have thought a lot about that covers a lot of the leather. To do it well, it's not something that can be done within a 48 hour sitting (long as I can stay awake). Like the chest plate and a large dragon on the sheild. Oval shield. I've been told that you should keep it cased in sections, and that keeping the leather wet for long periods of times is not good for the leather and can create mold. When I cased it in sections for some pieces I had for a 18" dragon head it created waterstains. You can't notice it if you're not looking for it or don't know it's not supposed to be there because I dyed it a darker color and had antique gel. But for this and future projects I want to avoid that. I've also been told that you should mold it after tooling if you do not have a solid mold. Someone else who doesn't have experience said molding after tooling you should use cold water and a hair dryer, and another you should use boiling water. I don't really trust they knew what they were talking about. -
So I seen this style tooling pattern and used it on this guitar strap I did recently . but I wanted to find out if anyone knew the name of this style or what it is ? Ps I apologize if I submitted this in the wrong topic area .
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Design based on Stohlman art, altered slightly for this project. Magnetic closure, two pouch sling bag for notebook and pistol. Didn't ask why he needed to carry a notebook and a pistol.
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Hi there. This is my first post. I have read a lot here on leather sewing machines here and I wish to ask about my situation specifically. I was aiming to get one for my birthday in July but 6 months off work with cancer treatment (going well nearly finished I hope) has delayed that idea for quite a while now, but, I thought I would pick your brains anyway and get my head around what I am looking at. I DONT want any fighting between cowboy/cobra/silrite/consew/juki supporters as I have a lot of respect for the sellers of all those machines who have given lots of info and free time to help others. I have hand sewn some light bags and put my poor little Janome Mystyle 18W through hell with a little clutch bag. (I like what Arthur Porter does in Dallas)I cannot hand sew for long as I have a damaged nerve in my arm from dialysis (yeah if I was a sewing machine i would be on the scrap heap by now!). I would also like to incorporate leather in my teddy bear making. I want to use at several layers of least 5-7 oz tooling Veg- tan leather in some products as well as other lighter leather at this point. (I would include pics of my stuff but the pc is not cooperating) I only have a small area (90cmL x 60cm W) so large machines are out of the question. I have looked online at (in no particular order) at the Sairite zig zag/consew CP2064/Cowboy (3200/3500/4500)/Cobra 3/4s/4P machines and have heard of Juki 441 machines as well. Can I also get the size of the tables/pedestals as they will have to be factored in to my little niche. I am in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne. I have heard of Cowboy and Cobra being in Queensland but not down south (must be too cold down here for them :^} ) So if there is any distributors down this way to deliver and help set it up, it would be really good. There are other places in Melbourne but they only seem to carry big machines. Ideally about $800 - $1000 for the smaller Consew/sailrite machines would be good but I don't know if they will suite. I would use that as a springboard to go from there to a larger one like the Cowboy/cobra or save up to get the larger machine cowboy/cobra at a later date. Oh and whoever gets my sale (eventually) I am dyslexic so I will ask a HEAP of questions. For that reason I would prefer new, although I saw a really cute Juki LU-562 with Dayton gear motor on a forum here earlier and thought it looked fantastic!!!!! Thanks in advance. Boofy
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Just finished a custom motorcycle seat. Pretty proud of it considering my skill set has been focused elsewhere for so many years. This was a collaboration with a leather artisan who did all the tooling. https://www.facebook.com/christian.lowe.100/videos/pcb.10210000209668563/10210000192148125/?type=3&theater
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Which machine brand/model: Artisan vs Cobra
Saddletramp307 posted a topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Newbie on the block! What an incredible platform for knowledge sharing- so glad I stumbled across it. So, grew up in a leather crafting household- my dad owned a tack company and made everything from chaps to breast collars and headstalls to belts, holsters, etc. He swears by Artisan machines- I was making purses (light to medium weight materials- lamb/pig skin to kangaroo and cowhides combined with fabric liners) a few years ago on a machine that was old (can't recall the brand) and worked alright given that it was free to use. Looking to get back into it and am currently looking at Artisan 335 B (would love a 335 BT because "portable" is very appealing - but not sure if that's just a better idea 'in theory'), and a Cobra Class 18. Both have walking foot cylinder beds, servo motors and compound needle feeds. I'm most likely never going to be sewing anything heavier than a tooled belt and I have a lighter machine for strictly textiles- so I like the range these machines seem to offer. Any advice on factors that give one product line an edge over the other- or just things to consider in general to be an educated consumer- is much appreciated! -
Here are pictures of a Growler case I did a few months ago. Hoping my brother will take it out in public and show it off at Mad Anthony Brewery in Fort Wayne. Check out my website, www.leatherbyjon.net
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Howdy I'm sort of new to leather working. I've made a few holsters here and there, and I understand most of the basics. I'm wanting to get into tooling leather, and I also need a few other proper tools like a round knife. I'm also a college student, so money is a little tight. I'm hoping to get good enough to start selling some of my work, and use the money from that to help fund more tool purchases. Right now, I'm just wanting to get a good, basic set of stamps that will get me started on tooling, and a good draw knife for cutting out holsters (#70 or #71?). Any suggestions? Thanks. -Tex
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Hi Everybody! Is it possible to make your own watch band and tool or stamp it? If so what is the thinnest leather that can be tooled/stamped? Also does anyone know of a place to get free watch band templates? Thanks and stay awesome!
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Please help a newbie out! What is the order of steps out these: burnish, tooling, oil staining. I am about to start working on a project and realized I wasn't sure what to do first. Basically the project is a leather "fanny-pack" thingy. It will have two pockets I was thinking of riveting on a backing piece then stitching it closed into a pocket. One of the pockets will have tooling on the cover flap. Should I tool then stain then burnish? Please help! Thanks!
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Hey guys, I am just wanting to try my hand at leather tooling. On Ebay a cheap set of 9 stamping tools only costs about $10 shipped, they look very similar to the Tandy basic tool set which costs $40+ plus shipping (I'm in Europe by the way). Does anyone have experience of the cheapo ones? Would they be good enough to start with? I know the basic craft tools don't seem to have a great rep on here anyway, so I figure if I got into it, I would be going for something a bit better anyway. Thanks!
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As usual, just swinging by to share a couple of pieces, make some comments and say hello. Hope everyone is doing well. If you have Instagram, I finally started an account and have been working into posting progress pics, bike pics, etc. there since it is so fast and easy. #threemuttscustoms
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So I'm looking to try my hand at bookbinding from scratch, from printing and folding signatures to attaching wooden boards for the covers, to tooling and connecting the leather binding to the wood. The book that I want to bind is planned to be 8-1/2 by 11inch after folding the signatures, thinking about trying to find some 1/8th inch boards for the covers,and I'm planning on using 1inch leather strips to bind the signatures to and then glue the strips to the boards. I also plan to have a serious amount of tooling to do on the leather. I'm curious about what extra leather I should have around the edges, any recommendations or critiques would also be helpful.
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I'm about to start back ground tooling a piece I'm working on at the moment. Although aesthetically I think it will make it look better would I make the time spent tooling back if I did sell the item. it made me wonder if spending the time back ground tooling actually adds any value to an item for a non commission buyer? Does any one sell items that are similar with and without background tooling?
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I made some belts for a good friend of mine for Christmas this year. I plan on doing more soon. It's hard to find time to work, but I love it when I do it. -
FINALLY got this present finished, but I messed it up so much that I told my guy that I'll make him a better one based off the same pattern and color. (turns out he wants a stag and owl on it anyway) I probably went about making this thing ass-backwards, but in the end it turned out alright. In any case, it holds the knife tight and looks a hell of a lot more harmonious with it than the cheapo nylon sheath that came with it. I underestimated how close I had made the knotwork to the edge, and just how much tooling it would expand the leather so I ended up stitching over the very tip of the knotwork at the bottom. I'm not so pleased with how the tooling itself came out, either, but I'm still progressing with it.
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Hi all, I'm pretty new to tooling, and I notice that when the pros do their tooling they tend to work on big pieces of leather and they stay nice and flat while they're being tooled. I'm working on tiny things like fobs and patches, and about halfway through a project I find the leather curling up so bad it starts slapping the stone when I hit it anywhere but where I'm holding it down. I apologize if this is a well-answered problem--I've tried searching this forum but didn't find anything. Any advice or tips would be appreciated. Dave Example attached. 8oz leather, approx 2.5" x 5", halfway through tooling.
