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Showing results for tags 'vegtan'.
Found 39 results
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Great quality veg tan belt blanks for a steal! 1.5 inch width. ~55 inches long. 8-9 oz Asking $60 for 10. sell one belt and the lot pays for itself If you want more message me and I can cut a deal. I have a lot available Smooth black grain with no blemishes. The underside has no loose grain and is finished brown I’ve made a listing on my site here to keep things all in one place https://laszlosleather.shop/products/1-5in-belt-blanks-10x
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Hi I would like to greet everyone first. I am a leather master's degreed engineer and engage in Leathercrafting as a hobby. I have been working with vegetable-tanned leather for more than 15 years. I would be happy to answer any questions or address any issues you may have related to vegetable tanning. Regards...
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Hi all, I have a friend who wants me to re-do the leather on these chairs (only one shown but he has 2) using tooled vegtan. Could you all chime in with your opinions on the weight of the leather I should use to withstand daily use/the weight of average sized people. -
anyone have experience with veg tan leather discoloration from exposure to moving air while drying? I’ve been working with a very pale veg tanned leather, wet-stretching it around stool cushions. I have a sort of “drying box” with a fan that I put the cushions in to dry to protect them from dust and such in my work space. I’ve noticed that when placed too close to the fan or a small gap inside the box, the leather can develop a dark discoloration as though a wind burn. Anyone know why this happens or how to better prevent it? Thanks!
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Hello, live been looking into making a proper pair of above the elbow 1880s evening gloves— which are consistently described as being kidskin. The issue is that the only kidskin I can find is chrome tan, which will not work for a variety of reasons (lack of stretch, lack of dye ability, horrible sensory to touch, ethical objections on my part, etc). Tawed seems to have been in some degree of use as well, going by trade journals and descriptions, but veg tan seems much easier to find and to work with. I’ve not been able to find either, however, and was wondering if anyone had ideas of where I might find some.
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Hello everyone, new member here I'm on the hunt for some lovely dyed-through veg tan leather. I make dog accessories and bags too, so I need something fairly thick. does anyone have their go-to shop for veg tan? it seems to be trickier than I thought it would be.. unless im searching in the wrong area of the internet! TIA pic for attention.. -
First time using this forum. I have some questions concerning the color variations of natural veg tan. Is there a gradient scale as to the quality of the leather with regards to it's color? Or a rule of thumb even, personal opinion...? For instance, I saw some pieces of veg tan yesterday most where's the average pinkish color and a few of them were very light like a matte eggshell. It didn't look very good but obviously I don't know good or bad. Any help is appreciated. Hope you all are having a good one.
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Took some photos during the making of a wallet. So thought I share it here. Feel free to ask questions, or give critique. Parts cut and ready to be skived. Card pockets edge painted and creased (Regad FN2) Pocket sections assembled and lined and ready to be trimmed. Trimmed Pocket sections and finished lined exterior ready to be assembled. Top of exterior stitched. Stitching card sections in place. Exterior edges creased (Dupin G1) and ready to be edge painted. First layer of edge coat applied and drying. Waiting for the edge paint to dry and then heat, sand and repeat five/six times before melting wax to edges and polish. And some cleaning and it's finished.
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Right then, ordered some vegtan butt, which arrived this morning. It appears spot on and I've never had an issue with this tannery before. I cut off two strips for a belt in the making and dyed both. I immediately noticed an odd colouring and marbling. I just completed a dark blue belt about two weeks ago without issue using a different leather. It near on appears purple and this marbling effect... I did a test piece of the blue and it looks as it should. I need to contact the tannery, obviously. This marbling effect... is that from the tannage or the bull itself? The fact that dark blue (Pro Dye) is leaving this a slight purple, it makes me wonder on the tannage. I am unsure what caused this, hence asking here. Cheers!
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Hi, I'm having a problem with discolouration of my first leather project. It's a leather sling/safari/campaign style chair made with Tandy's 9 oz Oakleaf veg tan. I gave the seat and arm straps a coat of neatsfoot oil but haven’t got around to doing the back yet. After using it for a couple months, I'm finding that the areas my skin contacts the leather are turning an ugly, grimy grey. I've been hand washing even more than regularly due to the pandemic, so I have a hard time believing that dirt is being transferred from my hands and elbows. It seems more like a chemical thing. I'm totally new to this and had noticed that slicking the edges would often turn them greyish pink but didn’t know if that was normal. So I'm trying to figure out a simple way of darkening it all and thought I'd ask here before putting money towards experiments. I'd be willing to go all the way to black if needed. I'm wondering if the neatsfoot oil is going to be an issue. Thanks, Paul EDIT: just to be clearer, I'm happy that it's getting darker and patinated but want the ugly grey tone to be less noticeable. -
I'm new to leatherworking. I recently purchased a 2-3oz half cowhide from Tandy but the leather arrived with a lot of cracks on the back. I had previously purchased a 5-6oz half cowhide that was stiff/dry but didn't have this cracking issue. Is this amount of cracking just in the nature of the lighter leather or should I message Tandy and file a complaint? If it is just in the nature of the product, what can I do to fix the cracking so that my projects aren't filled with these ugly lines? Here's a photo of the cracking:
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Hey folks, I came here in the fall and asked some big questions, as this was an ambitious project. First time carving (the coaster in the album was my practice run) and first time stitching. I also hand-drafted the pattern (why make things easy?). I made tons of little mistakes (like why, or why, didn't I use an awl?). I also learned a lot, and I'm very happy with the overall results, and so was my niece! (it was a present for her). Thanks for all the help! The Making-of album: https://ibb.co/album/bbvb1X
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Hey y'all, my name is Brian, owner of Upstate Handmade. Thanks for accepting me to this channel. I want to show off some of my work but my photos are to big. Please findme on instagram: https://www.instagram.com/upstatehandmade/ Would love to hear what y'all think!! Thank you all
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Hello! Extreme newbie here. I'm wondering if there is a difference between using a few coats of oil or using a brown dye to achieve a dark brown look than the original veg tan natural color. Is one a superior method? Thank you for any and all help.
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Hi all, lost my old account. I used to post under Swivelspoons. I am looking for a new supplier of smaller pieces of veg-tan. I used to use Tandy's higher grade shoulders but they quit using American hides and switched to Brazilian stock. I need it to still be semi-affordable though.
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Hey guys, I am in need of some advice, I have been working on a 22 x 22 chessboard for a buddy of mine. I am using Chahin Weaver veg. tan 5-6 oz. leather. I went ahead and used clear packing tape on the back and now I have cut all my lines and cut a 1 1/2 rose border. but now all of the edges and borders are beginning to warp or curl up. Honestly, its beginning to look like a giant valet tray lol. I still have a lot of stamping to go, should I just continue with tooling or should I remove tape and glue it to cardboard? I would appreciate the help? What would you guys do in my situation? Frank
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Hello all I’m getting rid of of some leathers that I don’t use during this confinement period and because of Corona it’s been quite hard making sales as I’m sure it’s impacted everyone in the leather-working community. So for sale I have 3 Nubuck skins from Tannerie masure in Grey, dark blue and Bordeaux they are around 12-13sqft each and a thickness of about 2-3mm I’m selling each hide of Nubuck for 45$ I have one remaining Brown calf skin lining used for the insides of shoes from tannerie Masure in Belgium. As you can see in the picture it has one hole in the middle and is around 13sqft. The flesh side is ultra soft and has a lovely suede feel and is being sold for 30$ then I have a selection of remaining vintage snake skins from an Italian tannerie dating around 1983-5 they are in grey, beige and a polished silver look. The grey and beige skins are 5€ each and the silver are 12€. i ship internationally from Belgium and if there are multiple purchase I can definitely work out a discount! any and all questions are welcome!
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So this is my first attempt at making a bag of any sort. I’m actually really pleased with how it turned out. I’m calling this a prototype because I plan on making more with nicer leathers. While this looks pretty decent there’s quite a few scars on the leather and while it worked for this bag that’s not really the look I’m going for. Also I need to tweak the pattern a bit. And I need to make a strap just waiting on some leather to come in. The bag is made of 2.5/3.0oz European veg tan from Tandy. Stitched with twist 0.45 cream linen thread and I used some cheap 5mm pricking irons from Amazon. The liner is some sort of suede from an old jacket liner I believe (my aunt gave it to me when I told her I was making leather goods) I got the gold hardware from sav-more leather in Downtown LA. I’d really like to hear what you think or maybe offer some insight. I wasn’t sure if I was supposed to glue the seams before sewing ( I didn’t ) also I forgot to undo the zipper A little bit before closed it up so that was a total pain trying to get the zipper open so I could flip it. Here’s a lot of pics =) Thanks for looking ! -
Good morning, last year a new client spoke with me quickly on restoring old saddle bags for his bike. At the time, he had a few moments and I noticed the straps cracking due to the buckles. I tossed on some proper screw rivets and removed the buckles to take some pressure off the straps. There was no time to use NFO on the straps due to weather and the bike was parked outside. Well, he returned. He wants the bags restored, but doesn't want the straps replaced just yet. Unsure why. He just wants the bags dyed. The leather near on feels and looks like a 2,5mm pull up leather. Quite waxy, but also harder than the pull up leather I normally use. Could be there is much change to the leather from exhaust and weather. They stink like an exhaust pipe! I plan on using NFO on the straps. Won't help the cracks much, but better than nothing for now. The question: On redying this leather. As I am unsure exactly what type it is and don't want to hurt the structure of the leather. I am thinking to saddle soap both bags (no the straps) to remove the 'gunk' and to prepare them for dyeing. When dry, dye and top coat. Obviously no dye to the insides. Thoughts, ideas or critiques would be appreciated. Cheers!
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This question started as a result of having some not-so-high-quality leather, that has some soft dirt marks, but now I’m curious about general prep practices before cleaning the leather. I was considering using denatured alcohol to wipe the leather with a sponge, before doing any cleaning. I understand this is effective, but also that it may dry the leather out. So, is it better to water down the leather first? Will that help to prevent the drying/hardening provided by the alcohol? I was then curious about the wetness of just water, since that tends to be used to help mold/form leather. Wouldn’t the water also cause hardening? Should the process be to: 1. sponge water and remove most dirt that can 2. use a light amount of denatured 3. add water 4. mold to final state 5. dye I’m considering something like making 3-piece gussets, where the molding may be important, yet hard to dye after molded (without dipping). I know it’s not ideal (or as affective) but can the leather be re-watered and molded after being dyed for those pieces? I also use denatured alcohol for cutting my Pro dyes, so there’s a lot of potential for drying out. I’m not sure what the best process should be to clean and dye. I would like to add a cleaning process, regardless if the vegtan leather seems to need it or not, just for consistency between final products.
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Hi all. I recently decided to make a belt for a buckle I bought some time ago. It's a double layer of vegtan, handsewn all round, and what a mission that was! It gives me new respect for all the folks here on the forum. Made plenty of mistakes along the way, but it is around my waist as I write this. I cheated slightly, once the stitching holes were marked with a wheel, I used a tiny drill bit in a dremel stand to drill all the holes, and then opened them up with a diamond shaped awl. The reason for this was to try to ensure that the stitching on the inside stayed relatively even. I'm very glad to have made this belt, but my hands reckon that it will be a long time before trying another one. Thanks for having a look, and any advise would be welcome. -
Hi All! I've been scouring the forum for quite a while, and I found some beautiful bar stools tooled and upholstered by members. What I can't seem to find is any description of how the sides of the padded cushion are attached to the base of the stool. I'm planning to cut out a circle for the top of the stool, tool the heck out of it, and sew it to about 2-3 inches of soft upholstery leather (or is vegtan also usable???) so it squishes when you sit down on it. But I can't seem to find a video or description of how you attach the sides of the leather to the wooden top of the round stool. Tacks? Staples?? No clue. The wooden stool I have looks like the attached photo. I'm hoping to make a leather seat constructed like the one pictured (but without the braid) that will attach to the wooden stool. Any guidance and photos of the underside of a finished stool would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Corey C. www.theleathergeek.com
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I've decided to make a vegtan belt using some old Eco-Flo products for dyeing and finishing. It is machine stitched, using metric 20 polyester thread; lined with pigskin; stainless steel buckle; briar brown gel antique color; lightly oiled with neatsfoot oil; Giardini edge-paint.
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Hello Everyone, Doing a little outreach here... I did just post this in another forum so I apologize for the cross posting... We run a tannery in New York's Hudson Valley named Pergamena Parchments & Leathers. We have been around for a very long time, tanning leather here in the US since around 1840, and going back to 1550 in Germany. We have produced many different kinds of leather throughout our history, but have been producing mainly vegtan for the last 10 years. We do cow hide, as well as goat and calf leather. We do a softer cow leather than Hermann Oak, or Wickett & Craig, but it might be suitable for some applications and we can offer it waxed, etc. I have also seen some of the goat and calf leather producers/sellers mentioned on here so I thought this might be the right place to mention that as well. We also do some deerskin. Again, all vegtan and all domestic hides, mostly from the Northeast US. We supply primarily the bookbinding trade, accessories, and handbags. If someone is also looking to buy craft leathers from Tandy or similar suppliers, we have a good supply of one offs or 2nds that we offer directly on our Etsy shop. www.etsy.com/shop/PergamenaNY You are also welcome to check our website www.pergamena.net or call us at 845.457.3834 If you are seeing this and would like to give us a try we would welcome the sale, and the feedback on the material. As a thank you, you can use the promo code LEATHERWORKER2018 to save %10 on your purchase. Thanks again and I hope we can help you! Jesse Meyer Pergamena Parchments & Leathers
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This is Spanish vegtan from my mate Martin, between 1,6mm and 2mm thick. I dyed it myself and am very pleased with my mixed new cognac colour, the dyes are Fiebings. I have featured a brogue punch hole designs....I love this it is like those fine English shoes. The tool makes 5 holes, you have to sometimes remove the small holes to go around corners..the only thing I do not like is the creasing on the leather on the fastening clasp after use...can thi be avoided at all?. Any suggestions. Charles
