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Showing results for tags 'vegtan'.
Found 39 results
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Hello Everyone, Doing a little outreach here... I did just post this in another forum so I apologize for the cross posting... We run a tannery in New York's Hudson Valley named Pergamena Parchments & Leathers. We have been around for a very long time, tanning leather here in the US since around 1840, and going back to 1550 in Germany. We have produced many different kinds of leather throughout our history, but have been producing mainly vegtan for the last 10 years. We do cow hide, as well as goat and calf leather. We do a softer cow leather than Hermann Oak, or Wickett & Craig, but it might be suitable for some applications and we can offer it waxed, etc. I have also seen some of the goat and calf leather producers/sellers mentioned on here so I thought this might be the right place to mention that as well. We also do some deerskin. Again, all vegtan and all domestic hides, mostly from the Northeast US. We supply primarily the bookbinding trade, accessories, and handbags. If someone is also looking to buy craft leathers from Tandy or similar suppliers, we have a good supply of one offs or 2nds that we offer directly on our Etsy shop. www.etsy.com/shop/PergamenaNY You are also welcome to check our website www.pergamena.net or call us at 845.457.3834 If you are seeing this and would like to give us a try we would welcome the sale, and the feedback on the material. As a thank you, you can use the promo code LEATHERWORKER2018 to save %10 on your purchase. Thanks again and I hope we can help you! Jesse Meyer Pergamena Parchments & Leathers
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This is Spanish vegtan from my mate Martin, between 1,6mm and 2mm thick. I dyed it myself and am very pleased with my mixed new cognac colour, the dyes are Fiebings. I have featured a brogue punch hole designs....I love this it is like those fine English shoes. The tool makes 5 holes, you have to sometimes remove the small holes to go around corners..the only thing I do not like is the creasing on the leather on the fastening clasp after use...can thi be avoided at all?. Any suggestions. Charles -
Have been busy with bagmaking lately and can't seem to stop hehehe. Made this bag from 3oz vegtan and duck canvas lining. Most parts machine stitched and some hand stitched. Mixed oil dye and neatsfoot oil and finished with leather balm. Will try some other finishes for it. Been experimenting a lot. -
Hi leathercrafters I wonder what is the correct procedure. First oiling and than dying or first dying and than oiling. I usually use Fiebings proffesional oil dye. Thanks J. -
Hi all, I'm currently searching for a source of vegetable leather for wallets and belts. I need 2-3 oz for the wallets and I'd prefer 10 oz for the belts. I've found some places that have sides of 10 oz for around $230, but I'm just a beginner and although I'd like a full side for belting, this is out of my price range. I've also been able to find 2-3oz shoulders and remnants but I've been unable to find a full side yet. If anyone can point me in the right direction here it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sam
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First of I'm new to the forums, my name is Jordan and I just started getting into leather craft like a month or two ago. I originally wanted to make motorcycle seats but the more I've been messing around I've been wanting to make different things! that being said, I just bought a super clean singer 29-4. I ordered some #69 bonded nylon and it finally came in today. I've been trying to mess around and get the machine to sew in some 2-4oz vegtan single layer but the thread will go in the first hole then just lay across the rest of the holes. I read somewhere that if it does that the tension is too loose, but the shuttle is as tight as it will go and if I tighten the disks anymore the thread stops. But when I try to sew denim it sews almost perfect. Am I missing something??? I'd appreciate any help or info! Thank you!
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I have once again been doing some research as I look to pickup a thick leather sewing machine. I have a Juki 1541s that I use for all of my chrome tanned leather sewing and it works great but I am expanding a bit and I am looking for advice on which direction to go. Cowboy 4500, Cobra 4 or Ferdco pro2000 super bull. All of these machines to me look to be exactly alike, the Cowboy and Cobra seemed to be priced very competitively to each other too. So I'm mostly looking for the current owners or those in the know for suggestions on which way the best wind is blowing for your bottom dollar. Would you buy your machine again if you could do it over or would you look at a different brand? I like that the Cobra 4 has a premium package that gets you most of the feet, plates, work platform, extra bobbin, needles and some threads and looking at the Toledo site I don't see a package deal so does anybody know if they offer that? I like to do a one time purchase for most of the equipment of what i'll need so I have it all in my shop at the get-go. Once again thanks to all that respond, I greatly appreciate the information given at this website, I seem to be reading it, all the time.
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I recently bought a side of Veg-tan from Weaver leather, and had it cut into 3/4" straps for making a bulk order of camera straps for a customer. When I received the leather straps (side) I started looking them over and most of them have a good 40-50" of quality leather, then it starts to degrade into this more fibrous portion that feels like its delaminating. Is this normal as whole sides go, or did they sell me a bullshit side of leather, cut it up and hope I'd not notice? I'll post pics as soon as I get home from the office, but I was hoping to get 2 straps out of each single weaver cut strap, but because of this nasty portion of leather it doesn't look like I'll be able to, on almost every long strap... Did I get a side with http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_rot_%28leather%29 that isn't red?
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Hey guys! I had some not so great scrap leather hanging around that wasn't quit good enough to use for something I'd sell, so I thought I'd prototype something new. It's a case for an iPad mini. It has one main compartment with a belt with a buckle that goes around the whole case. On the back, a notebook or papers could be stored under the strap. For the hardware, I just used an a buckle from an old belt my wife doesn't use anymore. Anyway, have a look and let me know what you think. -Nick
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This might be a stupid question, but, does anyone know if Hermann Oak's Grade A tooling leather is full grain or top grain? I am assuming it is full grain, considering that "A" is their highest grade, I'm just not 100% sure. Thanks Zayne
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Hi everyone, Wondering if I could get some expert advice! I am currently working on some leather coin purses. For marking the stitching holes I use an edge crease and then a pricking iron. The pricking iron does go through the veg tan but makes a very small hole, meaning when I am stitching on the pony, I widen the hole using my awl to enable the needle to pass through. When I push the awl through, one side looks fine but on the back, the pressure of the awl is tearing the leather and it looks a bit cracked. On the finished product one side looks perfect but the back does not look the same, it looks a little messier. Whilst I am still very pleased with the outcome, I was wondering if there is any way I can prevent this? Or, is it a simple case of this is the way it is? Any help welcomed Thanks!
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First post here, I figured I'd show y'all my progress since starting this craft a few months ago. The wallet with 4 pockets is my first of that design and I've been using it myself since making it (3 months or so ago). Since then I've learned quite a bit more about finishing the edges and have a much better idea of what I'm doing with that. Still working on getting my stitching to look clean though. I'm using one of the 4 prong punches from Tandy and can't seem to get really consistent results on the thicker projects (like wallets). Anyway, thanks for looking! -
I have been buying my leather exclusively from Tandy and have found that it is really easy to find nice white hides in very light cuts (2-3oz) but in the thicker cuts I use for dog collars (9-10oz) the leather is always quite dark tan. Is this normal for all suppliers or is it just a Tandy thing? I just finally got my Springfield Leather catalog (AWESOME!) and was thinking about getting a hide from them but was hoping for some input on this before I order. I am in Portland, Oregon so I only have a few local suppliers I can go to and actually see the hide. Is this something others have experienced? I am able to get really nice light pastel-ey colors on my lighter leather but those colors are impossible to get on my thicker leathers. It is bumming me out! Thoughts?
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What low sheen or matte finishes are the best for use on black veg tan? Without spraying and being more water- and rub-off resistant than Bag-Kote, MPB, NFO-beeswax paste or Mop-and-Glo. Some considerations: 1. When finishing black English Bridle or holstered skirting (W&C), even Satin Shene comes too shiny. Recommended mix of water, Satin Sheen and Super Sheen as 2:1:1 too. 2. Applying neutral Satin Shene or Eco-Flo Professional matte finish leaves translucent whitish hint in leather pores, I believe this is a mica powder sed as a matting agent. Black Resolene and neutral Super Shene have no such problem, but they are shiny on this leathers. 3. I tried Bag-Kote, MPB, NFO-beeswax paste, Aussie conditioner on scraps, water resistance is much lowert and water stains appear. Also there is concern if there could be rub-off of Fiebing's spirit dyes on clothes with these finishes, and could the oil from finishes stain clothes. Any personal expearance? 4. Fiebings Leather Sheen are no longer available locally, it gives less water protection than Resolene or Super Shene, and finished with it leather looks unfinished at all. I know that masters use it successfully, but maybe it needs other undelaying finish. Any thoughts, speaking from experience? Thank you.
