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If I make the messenger style bag, the sides are stitched faced to face using gusset's, what would be a appropriate size to make the gusset width when making the pattern, 5mm seems a bit thin . Welcome your thoughts

Hey y'all, I've been dinking around in the shop and working on my third pair of lasted boots. I am extremely curious about creating a "gusseted tongue" and attempted to on my last pair. I just made a pattern on the fly and upon stitching it to the quarters and stitching the tongue to the vamp, it came out looking very dorky, chunky and not at all aligned with the original plan, so to speak. Does anyone have any recommendations or experience in designing gusseted tongues? Any tips for a new guy? Methods for measuring and design?

I have been asked to make a bag with a gusset like the one in this photo, which has an internal divider. I'm looking for suggestions for securing the divider...

Hello Guys, I need your help to clarify my head from this "gusset problem". I'll try to keep it short in my story and case. I try to make a card case with gusset. Material : 3 oz vegetable tan leather I've already watch how to count the leather gusset to measure the body and how to stitch it with the main body in nigel armittage video on you tube. So he shows how to hole the leather using the awl, after you hole the other side with the diamond prong. Its true because after you glue the gusset and body, it will be difficult or even impossible to hole it with diamond prong. If I hole one side and the the other side separately, the hole won't be match (because the gusset is curved) So here's what I do: 1. Cut Gusset and measure the body. 2. Using V gouge from ebay (not really a v gouge) - V Gouge I used - with 0.5 cm mark from edge (for folding) on gusset part. 3. Hole the Gusset with 0.3 cm stitching mark from edge (because the curve its on the gusset). 4. Attach the body and the gusset. 5. Using the awl to hole the body from hole in the gusset (step #3) - failed #1 - the hole is zig-zag not straight. note: already sharpen the awl but still hard to penetrate the leather from gusset to body (trouble with motion, to narrow). 6. Stitching - failed #2 - why it pulled inside? Am I pulling the thread to tight? 7. Finish but when I look at the edge - failed #3 - 8. DONE I have think several cause about this "failure": (list of thoughts) 1. Maybe the Gouge not proper? Should I fold it with water after cut and gouge? 2. The material 3 oz leather is not proper for gusset? 3. Should I mark the gouge 1 cm instead 0.5? So the gap can make me easier for stitching? 4. Should I mark the body first instead of the gusset? (but in this case the gusset have a curve, not the body) *** I haven't done my "list of thoughts" with action because I'm afraid to waste another material. So before my next experimental, I hope you guys can help me, share your thoughts about this case. Maybe you have already done this and know the trick to stitch the gusset more easy? Just preview my thread it looks like a journal. Sorry for my bad english ^_^

Unless you can find a tutorial with more pictures I claim the title of having made the most comprehensive briefcase tutorial ever. 530 pictures in total. All information about the briefcase can be found on my blog: http://andersenleather.blogspot.com/ Because of the number of pictures the tutorial is divided into several individual posts. Enjoy

Hi there. A small request from sunny Scotland. I have been trying to make the this purse for ages but can never get the folds in the right place. I have looked online but I can't seem to make sense of the instructions. If someone out there can help this damsel in distress is be soooooo happy.

I'm making my first purse / handbag. It is a christmas gift...actually, I'm going to make ten of them. Yeah, I know it's the 16 and I've got nine days left. I got my first one nearly finished last night, and figured out a lot by making some mistakes. The biggest issue I had was sewing around the corners of the gussets. There has to be an easier way, or a trick or something. I tried it a couple of different ways, and I'm not sure any of them are the best option. First, I cut a notch to allow the leather to fold around. Then I just tried to force it into place and sew around. then, I just sewed a straight line across the corner and made it a seperate stitch. Any advice on the best way to accomplish this? As you can see in the pictures, I'm sewing the bags inside out then flipping them to leave the seam on the inside of the bag. This one does not have a liner. On other bags, I'm going to roll the front of the bag, like I did the sides...much better look.

I finished assembling the cutting/assembly table for my tiny leather and canvas goods workshop (9' X 11') yesterday, so it's time to make a prototype leather product. The photo displays the components for a purse that will be given to my daughter-in-law for her birthday on Friday. It was planned as a convertible purse and bicycle saddlebag, but I need to keep the project as simple as possible so that it can be finished on time. Here are a few questions for you more experienced folks: 1. The sides are two layers glued up with contact cement. What glue or cement would you use for a project like this? It should be water resistant. It's too cold in Minnesota (still) to open the window, so a less toxic and smelly formula would be welcome. 2. I don't yet have an edger or a burnisher. What it be possible to use a scrap of wood to burnish the edges of the straps? 3. The main body is a single layer of 8 ounce leather. For items like this to hold their shape after heavy use, would it be better to use heavier material, or to glue up the leather as was done for the sides, or to stitch or glue in gussets where needed? The purse will be dyed black. It is named for Bodiam Casle in southern England. I look forward to your advice and am glad to be working leather again. PS - I moved this from the critique forum, since this one seems to fit better.

Im looking for a cylinder arm machine that is best for sew messenger bag gusset corners. Any ideas? I understand a cylinder arm is the best option but which one im not sure. The leather is a 7-8oz in the picture below. Also what attachments are the best to use?? Presser feet?? Seam Guides?? needle plates??