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About Me

Found 10 results

  1. 12 sets of handle hardware for briefcases/handbags. 4 pcs. per handle, 12 sets, 48 parts total. Made in Italy, new never used. Steel handle parts are designed to be wrapped with thin leather or fabric, these two halves are then force-fit together with the gold-finished handle attachments sandwiched between. Only the gold-finished end parts of the hardware will show when assembled. Attachment rings to connect the handles to the bag/case are not included. $75 plus $10 S&H via USPS priority mail, domestic shipping only
  2. Main body 9 Oz + 3 layers of 9 Oz Veg Tan as filler External layer 2/3 Oz Veg Tan Lighten (a lot ) Fiebing's Saddle Tan Pro Dye & Resolene and Co. I'm quite happy with the result, but now, back to the hand stitching of the bag...
  3. I was watching a video today on YouTube by my favorite leatherworker. He was using a metal roller on leather to depress the saddle stitching into a groove. I thought it was so cool. I grabbed my tin of antique sofa rollers, some wood for a chair I'm restoring, six metal ones and 3 hard plastic ones from the 40s. I dumped them in a pickle solution on the side of my cooker, and in about 30 minutes brushed them clean and buffed them, took some old wood handles for my round wood files, used the wood files to enlarge the holes a bit and put them in. I love it when I can find stuff around here to use that I need not spend money on.
  4. It started as a damascus blade blank from a local knife show (1095 & 15n20), 5" blade: Then I added leather scales (horse butt?): Then wrapped in alligator and fastened the scales, and started the sheath with 5.5oz leather: And N52 magnets: I designed the sheath so the knife could fit in facing either direction: Wrapped in alligator: And stitched together, attatch strap, and done: The strap is attached with a chicago screw and it swivels, so I can wear it IWB or OWB. Yes, it took a very long time, but if I did it again it would be much quicker next time, now that I have some clue what I'm doing. This was my first knife handle, and first sheath.
  5. 13th century dagger scabbard, 2mm veg-tan over a balsa wood core. This was a pain to get right, mostly because I forgot how to get the tip right on the pattern somehow, so I had to throw away a first attempt that was 4mm too tight and wouldn't close at the tip. Also the wood core was 'roughly' cut when it was given to me by the owner, I had to sand it down to its present form and its still not even, so the tooling looks a little wonky now it's around the core. The tooling is based on late 12th/early 13th century finds, applied using tools from the same period and is appropriate for a minor noble or professional soldier. Bit rough and basic, but no better or worse than a number of the surviving examples. The handle wrap is bound .8mm calfskin over leather and cord risers, I'd never attempted something like this before but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The risers feel present but not uncomfortable in the hand, comfortable in both forward and reverse grips. Got a few old swords that need refurbishing, so got plenty of chance to practice! Any feedback or critique is greatly appreciated!
  6. Hello fellow leather heads! Just wanted to share with everyone the process I use to producing a very nice leather handle for the product line I came up with. If you have any questions about my methods or what I produce, feel free to ask! -Alec https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SKv_9FICwM
  7. Im trying to figure out the math for widths of plaits. I have a 7/8" Diameter tube that I would like to braid. I would ideally like to have strand widths between a quarter and half inch. Is there a calculation that can be used to figure out my options?
  8. Help! Quite some time ago i came across and article / topic on the subject of molding a handle from small bits of scrap leather and glue. I can't for the life of me find it now, I have tucked away the reference somewhere and, as to be expected, can't find it anywhere. The idea was to use shavings, scraps, dust and so on and build it up in layers, a bit like a concrete I suppose, till you got the required size and the sand it down to fit. Now I could go and spend a week trying out different glues or whatever and making a right mess getting it all wrong, or I could ask here in the sure knowledge that someone will know what I am babbling on about! Here's Hoping Claire
  9. I'm about to spend a *lot* of money on a handbag with leather handles. The handle is made of good quality leather and comes nearly straight. It is supposed to mold to the wearers shoulder over time, but a lot of people have reported ripples on the underside of the handle. Is there anything I can do to my bag when I get it to avoid this problem?
  10. bethefawn

    Attaching Handles To Bags

    Terribly sorry if this has come up recently (I searched before posting, I swear I did), but I am trying to put handles on a bag that I just made (my first attempt at making something more complicated than a wallet). I'm pretty satisfied with it (it's a sort of Gladstone/Doctor's bag), but now I'm getting worried about screwing it up. I had planned to cut a bar of leather, fold it in half, stitch most of it to itself, and then stitch the rest into the bag, as is pretty common with purses and the like. However, this bag is a good 16x10x12, and I mean for it to be able to carry my books and lunch and whatever else I need. In other words, I need it to carry what I would reasonably carry in a messenger bag or smallish backpack. Should I be worried about the strength/integrity of the bag and handles using this method? Should I use an intermediate metal ring or loop between the handles and the body of the bag? Should I use rivets as well as stitching to make it extra strong? My stitching seems awfully strong usually, but I've never made anything that would get quite this much abuse before and am concerned. Thanks all!