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Hi, everyone! I’m looking to make a corset that someone would like in white. What are the most effective and efficient methods to getting the leather even? Is there a way to dye the leather? I had someone recommend diluting paint, like Angelus, spraying the leather first, then painting over it to get an even surface. I also heard that spray painting the leather can get a nice even coat without the streaks of a brush. Thoughts? Thank you!

Guys & gals I recently recieved a new cobra class 4. I would like to install the #25 needle plate & feed dog. What adjustments need to be made? Is there a actual # for the feed dog height above the needle plate? Videos I watched said a papers thickness above the needle plate is the proper feed dog height. Can somebody give me some pointers to make sure everything is ok & I'm not going to break something. Thanks.

Guys & gals I'm assembling my cobra class 4. Where does this screw in thread guide go? It was in with a bag of parts. I cant seem to find anything about it. Now lmao I havent looked in the manual yet for it. I found 1 spot on top of the sewing machine it threads into, I just dont know if that is where it goes. The other thing is, if it is used what's it used for? & how is thread routed thru it? Thanks.

I thought i had it under control, but I am in desperate need of help. Its a cardholder. I dyed it black (sprite-based dye, 3 coats), let it dry over night, buff it, applied satin sheen (two coats) and buffed it (no dye is coming of). But, when I buff it with a wet cloth, the dye comes off. I cant have the dye coming off, it will ruing the clothes. What I am doing wrong? What I am to do? How can I seal this? I have leather grease, satin sheen and Resolene at my disposal. (I try to avoid resolene due to the shine it gives) This is my first real commission and I really want it to be perfect, and I am suppose to ship it out tomorrow! Any help is deeply appreciated! /Nicklas

Hello, As an experiment im making an archery back quiver, and anticipating a problem. The pictures hopefully will make it more clear. I plan to attach these 3 5oz decorative panels to this 8oz quiver, the quiver will then fold in half and be stitched on the long side into a quiver shape. The anticipated problem will be that after stitching the panels on while the quiver is flat, the panels wont allow the quiver to then fold into the taco and stitch into final shape. Any suggestions here on how best to attach the panels, or if a product like shoe stretch leather could help (after attaching, maybe leaving a section unstitched to stick a dauber into the back of the panels and work it into the flesh side? Any suggestions appreciated, big, small, or project breaking Thanks! David

Hello good people! I'm kinda new to this and was looking for helpful information which led me to this page, so I'm hoping someone with more experience here can help me! I made a few smaller projects up until now but wanted to try and make something bigger this time: the bag in the pictures. Sadly I'm not quite sure what type and thickness of leather to use for this project? I read that cowhide / calfskin is mostly used in making bags, would that be a good option here? Since in my mind the bag needs to have some kind of stability to it and from my experience cowhide seems to be kinda soft? Also which thickness can you recommend for a project like this? Since again in my mind it needs to have a firmer body to stay in shape and not get distorted while wearing it. I hope somebody here can help me and I'm thanking everybody who answers in advance!

Dear leatherworkers, Some machines are just ment for a select group of people because it's not something you use every single day unless it's your job But that doesn't mean there has to be a shortage of information about it. I will tell my experience with a fur sewing machine so that I may help others. About a month ago I bought a Allbrook & Hashfield fur sewing machine. They told me it was serviced but it didn't want to sew properly. So I started searching and searching but I couldn't find a lot of information. Not even proper manuals. I found lots of videos of people using it but non of them where useful for me to tune and service my machine. After a lot of research and looking at my machine I didn't want to wait any longer. I was going to service it myself and either ruin it or fix it. First of all my machine uses Schmetz 459R needles. Also called EB X 1567. I found that the looper arm was to high and not in the correct placement with the needle. So I loosened the needle bar and took it a bit backwards. I also loosened the looper arm and put it a bit forward. Now it was in the perfect location, just before the eye of the needle when it came back (just like on a sewing machine with shutter hook). So now the height of the looper arm. I inspected the machine and saw 2 bolts. I loosened them and now I could move the looper arm up and down. I carefully put it about half a millimetre about the needle plate and tightened the bolts. Now I was ready to try to sew again. And low and behold. It worked! I would like for everyone to out down information they have about the fur sewing machines. Doesn't matter if the models or brands are different. Maybe someone will find it useful. I will put some pictures from my machine to show what I loosened and tightened. Hopefully someone will find it useful. Kind regards, Sam T.

I have the chance to buy an Adler 269, efka motor with automatic options for a really good price, the only problem is that the efka comes with a 3 phase socket. My question: will there be any difficulties converting the motor for home use, since theres electronic functions involved. Thanks alot for your help or suggestions

Guys & gals I'm wanting to try & line a wallet with sheepskin or goatskin. This stuff is soo thin, I'm curious what I need for glue. I surely cant use contact cement on this type stuff can I? If somebody wants to give me some tips i would sure appreciate your input & knowledge. Also what is the best way to finish the edges on a lined wallet? Thanks.

Guys & gals dont laugh to bad, but I'm trying to learn & teach myself figure/floral carving thru reading & videos. Can any of you professionals give me a couple pointers on carving a butterfly? I'm trying to do a coin purse for Christmas & would like to carve a butterfly on the back of it. Thanks any & all help/pointers will be greatly appreciated.

Guys & gals I'm curious as what I can use for wallet linings, clutch wallet & purse linings & projects of such? A lot of guys recommend veg tan kangaroo or goat skin. Well kangaroo is a bit out of my price range at this point. I was thinking about veg-tan calfskin for my linings of projects, or even sheepskin. Can some of you professionals give me some advice/direction to go. I mainly only use veg-tan leathers at this point for my projects. I was thinking veg-tan calfskin would be tight grained & also would dye well. Thanks any & all help would be greatly appreciated.

I dyed one of my best saddles with fiebings pro dye dark brown, and it turned almost black. I’m so sad and it looks hideous. Is there any way to lighten, bleach it or take the dye out? I would love to save it ❤️❤️❤️

Hello, This is my first larger project and ive already learned alot (read, mistakes I will not be making again ) I used NF oil before dying (NF oil had 24 hours before the dye) and after dip dyeing it resulted in a bunch of blotchy circles throughout the piece (24"x12" piece, blotchy circles are 1 to 3cm in diameter). I dip dyed using Pro Dye (Ratio of Bl/Gr/Ye dyes, cut 50/50 with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol). Any thoughts on how to recover a piece like this? I've thought about a second round of dip dyeing, or adding a layer of NF or Leather Balm to help darken the color and balance out the splotches (or at least make them more subtle). Appreciate any and all feedback! -David

Hello all! I haven't really posted on here before, been more of a lurker haha. Recently, while I was at work, a man came around selling some tools and leather that he had extra. I'm fairly new to leather working (about 7 months), but I have heard tell that some tools are better quality than others in the long run. I have been anticipating a chance to get some better tools so when he pulled out some punches that are branded "AS BRAND" and an "Al Stohlman" belt punch, I quickly offered to buy them as I recognized the name. In heinsight, I should have inspected them a bit closer. A couple of the punches are damaged (See pics). I can't find any information on them online and was hoping someone could fill me and let me know if they can be fixed and/or if it would be worth while. I'm kind of leaning on; I should have looked closer and passed on them but hoping I can still get use out of them. The fact that they are already damaged and I can't find any information on them does not give high hopes for the others. Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you (:

I came across two 169 adlers for about 600 euros for both of the machines. Some small business that is going bankruptcy sells them Went to check them in person Machines look quite dirty and neglected as they are no longer in use Everything in terms of parts is there, they move freely and the hook assembly for both of the machines is doing the job of picking thread up. The gear belts for both of the machine was looking abit sketchy as they seemed abit narrow for the cogs. I will really appreciate some thoughts whether I should buy the machines and savе them from going into oblivion or I should stay away and not invest time in restoring them

Hi everyone. I tooled a leather coaster (constructive critique welcomed) and someone wants to order some. I know it’s an age old question, but what do you guys charge for tooled coasters like these? thanks

Hi guys, I don't know if I'm posting in the right place, but here goes. I have a singer 111w155 I'm using T208 thread with a #23 leather needle on 1/8 thick chrome tanned leather and thick poly webbing (about 1/8th thick) sewing them together. If I stitch at a faster speed I get little if any looping underneath. I would prefer no looping of course... Here is the real problem, if I slow down or stop or just stitch slower I get big loops underneath. Also if I turn a sharp corner, you guessed it, I get a loop. To fix this I have replaced the tension group. That helped a little bit, my old tension was pretty beat... but I still have the looping just not AS bad. I have fiddled with the tension spring, that didn't cure it. I tried different sized needles, nope, didn't work. I have re-threaded the machine, nope, didn't work. In the photo you can see where I slowed down, loops, and where I sewed faster, no loops. I know someone posted about this a while back but I cant find that post. So... Any ideas on how to get this machine to stop making big loop underneath? Thank you for your time.

I have a Cobra 26 machine , I was winding a bobbin and did'nt remove the upper thread, the machine jamed, I have not been able to remove the bobbin carier,need help, If i remove the screw, for the thread seperator i can move machine complete revelotions but the bobbin case moves with hook. thanks in advance Mack

Hi, I am looking form someone to fix up and old sentimental wallet for me. it’s very worn and needs a bit of work. I would be looking to work with someone that thinks they would be able to help if you could contact me at - abbierobertson321@gmail.com that would be great!! Thanks, Abbie

Inner hook guide Trapped thread I am a fairly new owner of my juki 1510. I was chugging away sewing the other day when I heard a horrible sound and got an error message on my motor. I immediately switched off the machine and took out my work (thankfully just some prototype bits), I gently turned the hand wheel and noticed it would not do a full rotation. After opening the bobbin flap I saw there was a lot of thread wound up in it. I cleared most of it but there is still some trapped in the mechanism (pictured). I have followed a YouTube video trying to remove the bobin case so that I could clean it but am unable to remove the casing itself. I think what is preventing the wheel from doing a full rotation is the position of the inner hook guide (akso pictured)? I am unsure if it is sitting right or what I should do with it. If anyone familiar with the machine could give me some pointers it would be much appreciated!

Hey there! I am looking into purchasing a Pfaff 145 H3 from a local seller and have ran into an issue with the machine. When manually turning the wheel in either direction, we hear a squeaking noise. The machine seems to work fine and produces beautiful stitches so it is very odd. A friend of the seller who is more knowledgable about machines believes it may be an issue with a bearing, as the noise is much less obvious when sewing, and also went away a little after oiling the areas near the handwwheel. Any ideas on resolving this issue?

Hi all. Was just doing some troubleshooting on my Juki 1541 which I still have backlash issues with (see previous post) when I noticed this. https://imgur.com/a/xXCrUWJ On each rotation of the hook it doesn't stop in the same position. Is this normal? Kind Regards,

Hello, I recently acquired a PFAFF 335 H2 for my leatherwork. I was wondering if any of you could help me in regards to where I would oil + grease this machine? Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Does anyone know the best way to tool fish scales for a largemouth bass? My best idea was using a mule's foot, but I'm hoping that there is a better way of doing this.

Hi Guys, I'm a newbie here and have just bought a very old Singer 111w155 machine which I have a few questions about. Im hoping that some of you have this machine or one like it and can give me some advice. This machine does a nice stitch so far (Ive had it for 2 days) but I noticed that the the belt on the lower safety clutch pulley walks off the pulley about 1/4 of an inch. How can I get this back on center and keep it there? Upon looking over the machine and watching videos on line I noticed that I'm missing a cog next to the lower safety clutch pulley... OR maybe it is an older model? Well anyway, I tried to just move the lower safety clutch pulley over a bit, but when I did - I got a lot of slop (back and forth on the shaft). Also I need some advice on if I should move my bobbin case up a bit. It looks like it might be a bit low. The little tab the goes under the feed dog just catches. Should it be more firmly up in that slot? AND - If I do move it; will I have to re-time the bobbin and needle? Also, about that bobbin area... Is the little finger that comes out and points at the bobbin case supposed to be closer to the case? I seem to have a good size gap. Lastly, having to lift out the bobbin with a needle or screw driver seems wrong, is there a right way or at least a better way? I cant wait to get to work and use this machine! I hope to hear from you.