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Found 29 results

  1. Like new KS Blade Punches (version 2)! Can be sold as a pair or single. This second version of KS Blade Punches are a bit slimmer and lighter for ease of use. The pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading.
  2. Like new KS Blade Punches! Can be sold as a pair or single. The pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading.
  3. I've been looking with interest at the Japanese Oka stitching irons. There doesn't seem to be a lot of information available; Goods Japan is carrying some of their higher end edge tools. Leathertoolz has good things to say about their cutting/ punch board on his you tube channel. Has anyone bought or used the stitching irons
  4. @Tugadude has suggested we setup an area for stitching irons, etc. It fits under Sewing Leather, so rather than a whole new forum area, here it is. For this thread, its main purpose is to collect and provide information. Posts that go off topic will be removed. So a couple rules for this thread. Reviews and information should list manufacturer's names, locations and model or item description so they can be found by other members. A link to the company website would be fine. Don't link to a specific page, keep it at the top domain level so the link is less likely to be broken when someone decides to reorganize their website or offerings. Photos should be posted here, not on 3rd party sites (includes vendors sites). Tugadude has sent a PDF from Nigel at Armitage Leather to start this topic off. Armitage Stitching Iron Reviews.pdf Hope you enjoy checking out reviews, both this one, and future reviews and hope you will contribute your knowledge and experience to this thread. Tom
  5. Hi everybody. I make a lot of wallets and I recently got a new set of pricking irons. In the past, I've used the diamond stitching chisels from Weaver leather supply, and they were okay. I switched to the Sinabroks 3.38 mm pricking irons because I wanted something a little more refined. I've really enjoyed using them so far but I've come across a problem. If I'm stitching down a row of pockets like in a vertical long wallet, I can't seem to figure out a good placement for the holes. If I put one tooth on the bottom edge of one pocket and another tooth on the top edge of the next pocket, there isn't enough clearance because of the slant of the teeth, so there's only a tiny bit of leather there to hold onto the thread. If I were to stitch that up, it usually rips the edge of the leather. On the other hand, I can't put a hole between the two pockets because then there will be thread going between them and they won't meet up edge to edge flush and clean. Is 3.38 mm just too small? I'm pretty certain I've seen people stitch up wallets with that size before, even finer sizes. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
  6. Like new Amy Roke Pricking Irons! Can be sold as a pair or single. The Amy Roke European style pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading.
  7. Like new Amy Roke Pricking Irons! Can be sold as a pair or single. The Amy Roke European style pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading.
  8. Hello all. trying to get my head around what to use for my punching irons. more and more options are at this point confusing me. As far as i know i need a firm enough surface but not too firm. i'm UK based if that changes things. Thanks for any help.
  9. At the moment I'm using Tandy Craftool, Tandy Craftool Pro, and Seiwa European stitching chisels, but I'm thinking about getting some Crimson Hide Pricking Irons Although described as pricking irons, Nigel Armitage's review shows that they will penetrate a thin layer of leather, and as I intend using them mostly for wallets, I think that would be just about right Crimson Hides website shows Japanese and French pricking irons. What's the difference, please, and which would you recommend? I'm thinking of the French type with 3,25mm spacing, 2 & 5 prong; but as I estimate that the total cost will be about £108 I'd like to be sure
  10. Amy Roke Pricking irons For Sale ( Brand new condition!) Available sizes: 2.7mm (#10) - 2 teeth - 5 teeth - 12 teeth = $200 for the set 3.0mm (#9), - 2 teeth - 5 teeth - 12 teeth = $200 for the set 3.38mm (#8) - 2 teeth - 5 teeth - 12 teeth = $200 for the set I would like to sell they in complete sets but would be willing to sell individual.
  11. I am selling this brand NEW set of Custom made Kevin Lee pricking Irons. These beautiful irons are the exact same style Matt Nudi uses on his immaculate work. The set includes: #2.7: 2 teeth #3.0: 2, 5, 10 teeth #3.38: 2 teeth The irons come in a nice little wooden box to keep them safe. You won’t find these irons for sale online as they are custom made by Kevin Lee. $260 for the entire set, to be payed to me via PayPal or Zelle (or from bank using email address). Shipping is included in the $260 within US only. Shipping is extra outside the US. Contact me here or via email: rabbitgeardevice@gmail.com
  12. I have two sizes of the VB irons for sale. In the size 6 I have a 2, 4 and 7 tooth. In the size 8 I have a 2 and 4 tooth. I also have one single tooth. I only have a single and 2 tooth size 8 in the KS Blade Punch. The KS irons are the black ones. I've only had them for a few months and they are in like new condition with the VB irons only used once for a small project. The KS irons are also in like new condition. I'm selling these in three sets ... (1) the VB size 6, (2) VB size 8 and (3) KS irons. The single tooth is included in the size 6 set. I'm pricing each set at about 30% off list price. Set 1 lists for $320 and I'm asking $220, set 2 lists for $140 and asking $100. Take both sets of the VB irons and I'll knock off another $20 for a total of $300 ... a savings of $160. The two KS irons list for $90 and I'll take $60. Buy all three sets and I'll throw in the KS irons for $50. If you're just starting out and these irons are not in your budget, I have several sizes of Tandy punches including their over priced Craftool Pro line. I'll sell those for 50% off list so if you're interested in those shoot me a message and I'll send you a list what I have. They had about 5 months of use but are in excellent condition. I take good care of my tools ... metal hammers never used on any of my punches.
  13. I'm new to leather working and just recieved some of my tools in the mail. I got an 8 tooth 3mm Amy Roke pricking iron, along with a 2 tooth. The 2 tooth works perfect, but the 8 doesn't seem to go in to the leather to mark it, it looks as if the teeth are just pushing the leather down, if that makes sense. Is this normal? I guess since there is more surface area it may be harder for that many teeth to pierce, but I dont feel like this should be an issue. Should I go ahead and just gently polish each tooth, making sure to not change the angle obviously, to try and get it to pierce rather than just push? Am I crazy and just doing things wrong? Any help is appreciated.
  14. Yes I know I should have listed these in the for sale/classified section, but I know there are lots of folk out there like myself who like to look at pictures of old and unusual tools. As well as the folk looking to buy quality equipment. 11/2" #6 - G Buck $75 13/4" #6 - Geo Barnsley $75 13/8" #7 - J Dixon $70 13/4" #9 - J Dixon $75 13/4" #9 - Brindley Late John Adams $75 2" #9 - J Dixon $80 11/2" #11 - W Butler $75 11/2" #15 - T Dixon & Sons $80 11/2" #16 - T & J Dixon $80 The # denotes stitches per inch, Prices are USD excluding P&P (approx $10 worldwide basic) These irons belonged to the late Mr Turner of Turner-Bridgar, who were saddlers and harness makers by royal warrant to Queen Elizabeth II until he retired in the mid 1980's. Some of them are stamped with his initials, most are getting on for a 100 years plus and some by makers not seen very often today. In my opinion Buck made some of the best irons, I have some in my toolkit and they are the first I reach for! They are not the prettiest tools in the workshop but have given many years of service and will give many more, as you can see the business ends are still good. I will supply a stamped piece of leather with the Turner-Bridgar makers mark (as in photo) with each iron as a little piece of history/provenance. I hope these go to good homes.
  15. Hello, Bought this set by accident. I should get the #9 instead. I would like to sell this or trade to KSBLADE pricking irons #9 3.0mm. My price for this set is $300 + shipping. I live in Toronto, Canada. If you want to meet up and get it for free shipping, DM me. if anyone wanna trade to KSBlade, let me know please. Thanks
  16. Set of two Vergez Blanchard pricking irons. Used, approximately 4 years old. Good condition, may need to be touched up. 9/10 - 10 teeth, 9 teeth per inch 9/2 - 2 teeth, 9 per inch Asking $175 shipped in the USA.
  17. Continuing with the downsizing of my shop, I'm selling some of my lesser-used tools. I purchased all of my Vergez Blanchard tools from VB themselves. Vergez Blanchard Pricking Iron Sets: #9 (9 teeth per inch, 12 teeth and 2 teeth) - BARELY USED - $239 #6 (6 teeth per inch, 10 teeth and 2 teeth) - $219 (The 10-toothed iron has a bum tooth on the end that I haven't taken the time to sharpen out, because I rarely use it. Otherwise it's in excellent shape. Two Vergez Blanchard scratch compasses / Wing Dividers - I use these to mark my stitch lines. The two are slightly different sizes, but hardly noticeable. $59/each Vergez Blanchard "Couteau a Pied Demi-lune" No. 7 (200mm) - $109 I've sharpened this on my buffing wheel - it's big and as a sharp as a razor! Vergez Blanchard "Fer a Filet Maroquinier" (filleteuses, creasers and folders) - would like to keep them together, $149 for the entire set. Lastly I have a large, round, 64oz Barry King Mallet - minor dings, in excellent shape - $75 PRICES INCLUDE SHIPPING (to continental USA) AND PAYPAL FEES. Willing to ship elsewhere but will have to add additional cost! Here is a link to a Google Photos album if you'd like to look at the pictures full size: https://goo.gl/photos/vDfx17xTdqSzSHrH7 Thanks for having a look - let me know if you have any questions! - Ross
  18. I wasn't sure where to post this, but I thought I'd throw in my two cents on a set of chisels/pricking irons I picked up off of Amazon recently. I usually post to Reddit/r/leathercraft, but figured someone over here might be interested. I had not heard of this brand before (Wuta Leather), and knew that they were based out of China, based on shipping info/wait time. I've been waiting to pull the trigger on a decent set of European-style irons, so I figured if these were bunk, I wasn't out a whole lot of cash. You can find them on Amazon in two sizing options; I got the 3.38mm as I usually make wallets and handbags. I was asked how they performed, so here's the review: Wuta also has a store on Ebay, but if you order there, they have different irons available and have a "W" on them. These do not. Even though the irons do not have the "W" stamp, they appear to come from the official Wuta factory. So did the thread I ordered. They are nicely polished, sharp, and made of quality stainless steel (site says "white steel"). Only downside is that they are quite small, about 4" in length. They are quite sharp - this is with one punch of the mallet through 5-7oz veg tan: I've punched them through 3-4oz veg and 5-7oz veg and stitched with .45mm, .8mm (sorry that it's yellow and a bit hard to see), and 1mm threads. I would not recommend using 1mm thread, as it was difficult to pull through. I usually use .8mm thread in whatever I'm making and this was the ideal thickness to get the regular, clean stitch pattern that I like with the European-style chisels. So, that's it! I haven't owned any Blanchards or Dixons, so I can't compare them to much, but I'm happy with the purchase, and for the price compare to those brands, I'm really happy.
  19. Okay so I have never used or actually held a pricking iron and I'm wondering about the spacing between the teeth. Is the measurement that's being given for instance 3.8 is that from tip to tip? Or is that the space in between each tooth? Also how long should the teeth be ? So for those of you that have them can you please give me some dimensions metric would be fine ! Yes you guessed it. This will be my next challenge to make a set of irons out of the L6 that I made my other tools from. My plan is to make the blade out of the L6 and to make a handle out of half inch square iron which I believe to be wrought iron. I plan to mig weld the blade to the handle after I heat treat and temper the blade. I also plan to put a Twist in the handle both for ornamentation and better grip I figure the handles would probably be good at six inches in length. So any information shared on this subject would be greatly appreciated I'm having so much fun making tools and I'm wondering what the outcome of these will be thanks for any and all replies.
  20. Pretty excited, I've waited nearly 7 months for these to show up! I put an old Joseph Dixon iron in the photo for comparison. I have yet to use these, so they still have the protective plastic dip on the ends, but they look spectacular, almost mirror finish, and appear pretty sharp. I can't wait to have a project to try them out on! YinTx trying to upload a photo.. but getting blocked. I'll add it when I can...
  21. There are three tools that look similar, but cause confusion; at least they did to me when I started. Here is my explanation. A PRICKING IRON has a row of short prongs. It is used to mark the position & spacing of stitching holes by tapping onto the leather with moderate force. This will leave shallow holes or marks, but to make the holes all the way through the leather you must follow up with a saddler's awl. It is used for sewing leather with thread A STITCHING CHISEL has long, narrow prongs that have a diamond shaped cross section and are set at an angle to the main body of the chisel. They both mark the position & spacing of stitching holes, and make the holes themselves by knocking the prongs all the way through the leather. Often this is enough, but you will have to complete the holes with a saddler's awl if the prongs are shorter than the combined thickness of the leather. It is used for sewing leather with thread. A LACING CHISEL has long prongs that are broader and have a flat cross section, and are set flat in line with the main body of the chisel. It is used to both mark the position & spacing of the holes, and to make the holes all the way through It is used for sewing leather with laces or thongs. For all three types there are variations in the number of prongs, and the distance between them, which in turn sets the stitch length They can usually be improved by careful sharpening & polishing with a needle file and fine abrasive paper There is another tool for marking the position & spacing of stitching holes. It is a wheel set on a handle, and has short teeth or prongs around the rim. By rolling it along the surface of the leather it will leave a row of marks or shallow holes, but the holes themselves must be made by following up with a saddler's awl. You can get different wheels to set different stitch lengths It is used for sewing leather with thread, and is called a STITCH MARKING WHEEL or an OVERSTITCH WHEEL Be careful as some suppliers use the term 'pricking iron' and 'stitching chisel' when they mean the other thing Be sure what you're asking for, and try to see an illustration before you buy
  22. Note: I conducted a search of the forum before posting this, however if I missed a discussion please forgive me (and fire over a link to it). I'm looking to get into making leather boxes, and I would like to find portmanteau/inverse/reverse pricking irons similar to Joseph Dixon slanted style. Even Goods Japan/Craftsha diamond style would be fine. I have searched the internet, but have not yet found any options other than Vergez Blanchard which is way outside of my budget at this time. Thanks in advance for any information you care to share.
  23. Selling a set of Vergez Blanchard pricking irons on ebay, No. 7 with 9 teeth and a No. 7 with 2 teeth to help with curves. Used only for a couple of projects. http://www.ebay.com/itm/251246320100?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  24. Does anyone know if the Kyoshin Elle pricking irons are still available? Mine suffered a sad fate in a house fire, and I was hoping to replace them, but I can't seem to find them available anywhere. I would appreciate any help finding a source! YinTx
  25. hi i am new to leather making. i took a workshop at tandy which went over basics for making a little suede pouch. i am trying to make handbags using thin leather. i bought some nice remnants from a good local store just to get started. i have a 2 teeth and 4 teeth pricking iron 7 tpi blanchard which i really like. okay so here is where i get confused. i have searched online and its hard to find compact info.. for multi layers, seam of bag, do i mark and prick one layer and then line up the other layer underneath and prick the second layer? ( clamp together with binder clips) or do i glue or tape layers together and prick through both layers or mark each layer and prick separately or prick one layer and use an awl to go through the 2nd layer or prick the layers but not all the way thru and use soft awl to make hole larger for needles to go thru (i saw this method in one video but again that was use on very thick leather .. i am afraid i might damage the leather if i try this with very thin leather) what to i do for a very thin strap? (leather folded in half so only using single seam) .. what i tried is taping the leather and pricking thru both layers.. not sure if that was best way to use the pricking iron .. it looked fine but .... also wondering if its bad for the pricking iron to be going through tape or glue... how do i added piping .. that is in terms of making the holes? is it best to mark and prick all the holes i will need to stitch the sides of the bag together? thanks in advance for any help. the information i have been able to find online has been mostly for very thick leather and i am not sure if the same processes apply for thin leather or methods are either not fully explained or alternatively there are so many methods shown that it just confuses me more ):
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