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I have an early 1800s double-rigged skirt-less half seat Texas Hope with two piece Samstagg rigging. The saddle overall is in great condition with a solid tree and horn but the rigging is badly surface cracked with the off rear quarter strap broken and the latigos are pretty stiff. I'm wanting to replace all the rigging to make it safe to ride and I want to make it match the original. If I were just going to use it for decoration or sell it I wouldn't bother, but it fits a little pinto cow-pony that I'm hoping to buy like a glove and fits me too, it's real comfortable. Does anyone know how much this will detract from the value if I ever went to sell it? Also, the rigging is nailed on and covered with nice floral brass conchos, I want to keep them, but I can't figure out how to get them off without damaging them. Any ideas? Thanks so much!

Hi All, New to this site and to saddle building. I have had the Stohlman Encyclopedias for years, but am just beginning my first saddle (no 2 in the encyclopedias) now. The encyclopedias are great and very detailed, but when it comes to modifying their plans there isn't a lot of info on how to do this. For example Al raves about 'Stohlman Style Rigging', but then only uses his style of rigging in one example (Saddle No. 4). I find it odd that he dedicates multiple pages to explaining why his methods are better, but then reverts back to a standard flat plate rigging in saddle no 2. If anyone has had success with using Stohlman's encyclopedias please let me know any tips and tricks to being successful with this guide especially in regards to rigging and deviating from his exact plans. Thanks! Jason

I've been scouring this site for information on industrial sewing machines. I'm looking for a machine to do rugging for taxidermy. It needs to go through 2-6 layers of 11-18oz felt and the hide (bear, coyote, etc). I have previously used industrial sewing machines for garments, so these heavy duty machines are new to me. From what I've read on this site I'd like to try find a Consew 206RB-5 (or any subclass with reverse) or a Cowboy machine, maybe the 3200. I'm open to other machines that have a reverse and large capacitity bobbin. Before I make the plunge can anyone give me some feed back on what walking foot machine would be good for me or should I be looking for something with a rolling foot? Should I find something to sew up to 1/2" thickness or is that overkill?

Hello, was wondering about the depth of inskirt rigging.. In relation to the bottom of the bar ... This is 5.5" to the botom of skirt and thinking its too deep as it behind the knee... Thinking need to be up more like 4.5" to the leather and the ring hanging below that bout 1.5"

Hello, I need some advice on a saddle I am building. This is a first for me for many reasons. Two of those are, this is the first saddle I have built on a wood tree and this is the first in skirt rigging I have done. Which thank you to all who have provide input on these topics already on this forum. This saddle is for my husband, so I built it to the point where we could have him ride it, to try out the ground seat, so it is unfinished in these pictures. The stirrup leathers/fenders are not the ones that will go with this saddle when finished. The question I mainly have is, if there is any advice on how to fix or what to do about the in skirt rigging plate and where it rubs the riders leg? The skirts stick out and fallow the line of the saddle tree, hopefully you can see in the pictures. When my husband rode the saddle and it was cinched down on the horse it still really rubbed his leg. Should we wet the rigging and try to pull it down? Would pulling them in help or did I just get the rigging plate in a bad spot, or my leather too thick at the spot of the rigging plate? Once the seat is in, will that change how his leg sits over the rigging plate? Any other comments would be greatly appreciated as this is only the 4th saddle I have built and like I said there are a lot of firsts for me on this one. Thank you, Anna

I am offering for sale a large assortment of Watt Brothers hardware at over 50% off list! Below is a summary of the items offered, their list price and total. List price total is $475. I am willing to sell shipped for $220. I am also including additional buckles and keepers as a bonus. they are seen at the top of the picture above the hardware array. I am also throwing in watt brothers 1" post back conchos not included in this total as a bonus. Paypal accepted. Shipping to continental US, shipping outside of US extra. 3 HorseShoe Brand Tools celtic conchos with tie loops - 1-1/2" $2.49 $7.47 3 HorseShoe Brand Tools loops - 1/2" $1.56 $4.68 2 HorseShoe Brand Tools loops - 5/8" $1.63 $3.26 1 HorseShoe Brand Tools loops - 3/4" $1.71 $1.71 9 HorseShoe Brand Tools loops - 1" $1.86 $16.74 4 HorseShoe Brand Tools saddlers billet loops $3.99 $15.96 4 HorseShoe Brand Tools Inskirt Rigging rings $8.59 $34.36 2 HorseShoe Brand Tools pair floral rear flat plate dees $14.04 $28.08 4 HorseShoe Brand Tools floral front plates $7.03 $28.12 4 HorseShoe Brand Tools floral saddle dees 2-1/2" $4.79 $19.16 4 HorseShoe Brand Tools floral saddle dees 2" $2.87 $11.48 2 HorseShoe Brand Tools Martingale center $4.40 $8.80 2 HorseShoe Brand Tools 2-1/2" breast collar ring $3.81 $7.62 10 HorseShoe Brand Tools 2" breast collar ring $3.47 $34.70 25 HorseShoe Brand Tools 3/4" floral conway buckle $2.04 $51.00 4 HorseShoe Brand Tools 5/8" floral conway buckle $1.47 $5.88 3 HorseShoe Brand Tools 1" floral conway buckle $1.22 $3.66 2 HorseShoe Brand Tools flank buckle floral $3.95 $7.90 2 HorseShoe Brand Tools flank buckle plain $3.81 $7.62 13 HorseShoe Brand Tools collar dees $2.09 $27.17 2 HorseShoe Brand Tools 1-1/4" floral buckle full $3.08 $6.16 3 HorseShoe Brand Tools 1-1/4" floral buckle $3.01 $9.03 12 HorseShoe Brand Tools 5/8" round floral buckle full $1.47 $17.64 16 HorseShoe Brand Tools 3/4" round floral buckle full $1.99 $31.84 10 HorseShoe Brand Tools 3/4" half floral buckle $1.47 $14.70 3 HorseShoe Brand Tools 3/4" full floral buckle $1.90 $5.70 2 HorseShoe Brand Tools 5/8" full floral buckle $1.41 $2.82 3 HorseShoe Brand Tools 1/2" full floral buckle $1.31 $3.93 $475.90 Click on picture for closer view.

I am doing the study part in preparation for my first saddle. Looked around the forums, but didn't find much comparing the utility of in-skirt rigging vs regular rigging with full skirts. I have books by various saddlemakers, each of whom has their own way of doing things and obviously they all work, or they wouldn't be selling saddles. I am particularly interested in Davy Jones' way of doing in-skirt rigging. I plan to start by making a couple of pony saddles for nieces and nephews, then on to saddles for myself and my father. Dad and I spend most of our saddle time packing or on long day rides, putting lots of miles in the saddle, but seldom doing anything like working cattle. Seems like reducing the weight of the saddle would be reasonable for our needs, however, I prefer my heavy old Hamley ranch saddle over any other saddle I've ever ridden. I've read complaints about in-skirt rigging, that it doesn't allow the saddle rigging to "breathe" like regular rigging and full-skirts do. Others like in-skirt rigging, saying it keeps the saddle in place better and is more comfortable for the horse. I'd like to hear some opinions from saddle makers on the subject, before I make up my mind about it. Do you like in-skirt rigging? Why or why not? Thanks in advance.

Quick question on flat plate rigging - Had an old timer tell me that all properly built, heavy ranch saddles will have a piece of nylon webbing material riveted to the 7/8ths rigging at the front. The webbing runs over the ground seat just behind the horn, creating a continuous rigging is what he tells me - Anyone ever heard of this? Seems to me like you could run the risk of crushing your ground seat... He says just screwing the rigging up front isn't strong enough? I've understood that that was all that was necessary...Can someone please comment? I have attached a rough sketch of what he is talking about...I am making myself a saddle for roping and want to ensure it is strong enough to handle anything I might latch onto so wondering if this nylon is necessary. Many Thanks, rdl