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Found 3 results

  1. I´m not sure if this is known but at least to me it was new that there is an adapter for retrofitting a roller foot to Singer needle feed and drop feed machines which have the "Split Presser Foot Bar". Usually this type of presser foot bars cannot accommodate roller feet. So with this adapter you can install roller feet like the ones you find for the Singer 31K / 331K and similar machines (works best with small diameter roller I think). Quick explanation - I restored a 51WSV2 last year and replaced the old presser foot bar with a dedicated roller foot bar - fortunately it had same diameter as the later Singer foot bars. And while looking for parts that could fit this very old but very nice machine I stumbled over a "supporting base" but the purpose was not clear to me at that time so I just ordered one to see what it really is. This is it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Presser-Foot-Supporting-Base-Fit-For-Golden-wheel-Cs-810-820-Sewing-Machine/163656522197 It turned out that this is an adapter you can fit on the typical "large diameter" Singer split presser foot bars you find on many vintage Singer industrial machines and even some modern clones. Machines which have this type of foot bar are f.i. Singer 111w, 211w, 107w, 143w, 153w just to mention a few but it depends on the subclass and it only works for drop feed and needle feed machines. Good thing is you can use the standard feet that belong to the machine ex factory and put on roller foot when needed (but may depend on the machine you have). So this enhances the spectrum of use of certain machines. And maybe (have not tested this) you can even use the standard "garment" presser feet of the 31K and similar machines with this adapter. "Bad thing" is on machines with a "closed top" foot pressure screw you probably have to shorten the presser foot bar and have to adjust the presser foot bar bushing to achieve more foot lift - so it depends on the machine what modifications are required... So this may work for you or not and it may require "tinkering" (depending on your machine) and maybe it´s not everyone's cup of tea but it could be a workaround for one or two members here... I just wanted to share this. And this is how it works:
  2. Hi guys, I don't know if I'm posting in the right place, but here goes. I have a singer 111w155 I'm using T208 thread with a #23 leather needle on 1/8 thick chrome tanned leather and thick poly webbing (about 1/8th thick) sewing them together. If I stitch at a faster speed I get little if any looping underneath. I would prefer no looping of course... Here is the real problem, if I slow down or stop or just stitch slower I get big loops underneath. Also if I turn a sharp corner, you guessed it, I get a loop. To fix this I have replaced the tension group. That helped a little bit, my old tension was pretty beat... but I still have the looping just not AS bad. I have fiddled with the tension spring, that didn't cure it. I tried different sized needles, nope, didn't work. I have re-threaded the machine, nope, didn't work. In the photo you can see where I slowed down, loops, and where I sewed faster, no loops. I know someone posted about this a while back but I cant find that post. So... Any ideas on how to get this machine to stop making big loop underneath? Thank you for your time.
  3. I Have an older Consew 226 with reverse (name plate just says 226) that has been used, maybe well used. It sews fairly well as far as stitching goes but I can't seems to make it run quite straight as the needlebar rock frame moves on the stud. I also need to get this last bit of backfeed taken care of. I have gone through all of the upper end adjustments/eccentrics and this is as close as I can get. The feet and feed dog are worn and I will be replacing those soon, hopefully straightening out the stitch and relieving the rock. What do I try next? Adjusting feed dogs on the rockbar?
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