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Hello all, I have a selection of vintage and new tools for sale, Unfortunately due to the size restrictions I cant post individual pictures of the tools. However if you want to see more just ask and I can send pictures! So lets begin, from left to right 1) Black walnut Strop that is double sided and comes with three veg tan strips with a backing adhesive to easily attach and remove, 2) Kobito knife with two blades from Aescalp and one right handed D2 blade which fits most clicker knifes such as the Lindispensable 3) Yorkshine no.2 edge creaser 4) Curved vintage bone folder 5) Vintage Manual hand held Hot foil stamp comes with out letters 6) Sanding block trapezium shaped 7) Vintage Michiels Bruxelles Creasing edge in need of wooden handle made in Belgium quite rare 8) Solingen Furriers Knife with out blades 9) Japanese Leather knife 32mm made by Artisan Oganaru (can be found on instagram) 10) John Adams no.14 pricking Iron, teeth at the ends are filed down due to being broken. 11) Leather edge rougher with wooden handle 12) Japanese leather knife double bevel 40mm made by artisan Oganaru (can be found on instagram) 13) Vintage shoe makers knife Vergez Blanchard right handed 33cm total length 14) Vintage gilding stamp with crucifix (from 1908) the scissors, clamp tool and long soft steel blade are just freebies to go with. I am selling the whole lot for 200 euros with shipping included worldwide. I can take payments by paypal. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.

Hi all! I recently got some skiving machines from an auction but can’t find any info on this skiver, has anyone seen any like this before?

Just a few knives. Various shapes of Japanese knives. A few "Aogami" super blue steel Japanese knives made by Mr. Okada in Japan, an RML "Shirogami" white steel and a Palosanto D-2 steel knife. L'indispensible with Chartermade D-2 blade, a couple of Doldoki D-2 skiving knives, some Erick Anton Berg clicker knives from Sweden, a couple of unmarked head knives and a few other miscellaneous knives.

I just bought a skiving knife on e-bay. It was sold as a Verges Blanchard and looks like a 3-1003D but it has a sort of hammered finish on the top face of the blade. I have a 3-1002-2 which is to all intents and purpose the same knife with a rounded blade instead of a slanted one but there are a lot of little differences. If you want the figures I did pics but if you can't read them, please ask. The only thing that is the same in the length of the handle but they are, as I have said, differences in size and weight and of course, they are made of different wood. The main cause for my concert is that the logo is almost impossible to see. The dog is unrecognisable but you can see something and the word BLANCHARD is underneath it. I also bought a set of black steel with red handles frog mouthed pliers which the guy swears are Blanchard but they have no logo. He says he bought them more than ten years ago but there is nothing like them in the current catalogue. I think one of us got ripped, can you help me to find out if was him or me? Thank you in advance for your help

Just interested in what the difference is between these two leather types of blade

Hi everyone. As practice, I was trying to hand skive 1.2-1.4mm leather in preparation for my project which calls for skiving about 1.0mm. I was using a Tandy Super Skiver and well, it sucked. No matter how delicate of a touch that I tried, my cuts were vastly uneven and it pretty much ripped and tore up the edges. Absolutely no uniformity in the cuts. I’m sure some operator fault is there. Skiving is a skill until itself especially with thinner leather. I have to ask; is there a better knife/tool to learn on like a very sharp, straight or slanted skiving knife or even a round knife? I don’t mind putting the time in to practice but if it’s a better knife choice thing, I would rather practice with that Any insights, tips or suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks! William

Purchased this knife a few years back but never really used it. It is very sharp. Click here for photos $40 shipped CONUS takes it.

Because most of my projects never needed to have the edges skived more than what I could do with the cheap safety skiver I never invested anymore then the $9 that I think I spent on it. But recently I found myself in need of a better way to skive the edges for wallets so after some research and watching some YouTube videos I decided on a combination design which I think turned out okay. It is very functional and the steel is good as I have used it for making my 1/4 round knife and several other knives that I have. Anyhow here it is. The steel is L6, the wood scale is jatoba finished with pure beeswax. I may in the future remake the same design as well as a couple more just to see if they work but for now this one works great thanks for looking and as always comments are welcome!

Greetings folks,, I’ve been taking ideas and stuff from this site for ages now and thought it was about time I posted something some of you might find useful. Skiving knives, ‘never been able to buy one that I really liked, doubtless more a comment on my pickiness than anything else. Anyways, I had a crafty idea and decided to try making my own. Recently I retired my camping firewood saw and recalling how well it held an edge I decided to see if it would make a half-decent skiving knife – it was a ‘mid-range’ pruning saw with a reasonable quality Swedish steel blade, ‘decent - but nothing special. ‘Sort of thing you’d pick up at a boot sale for a couple of £/$ or thereabouts, or $30.00 new. The work was not difficult, 1. Using cutting disks on a Dremel I cut the blade to an appropriate length and the blade angle I wanted. 2. I made two tools, one from each bit of blade. (I sharpened the first attempt on the wrong side, so it turned out left handed - and yes, that was embarrassing.) 3. Using a hand file, dress what will be the cutting edge so it is straight, clean and even. 4. Carefully grind a shallow bevel (20 degrees or so, it’s not that critical) on the business end with the finer side of a bench grinder, go slow with this and do not allow the blade to get hot enough to discolour. (it softens the metal). To avoid heat problems I took it down very close to a sharp edge but not quite there, the thinner the metal the more likely it is to heat up too much. Also dip it in a pot of water every few seconds to cool it. 5. Grind off the teeth, or at least most of them - they might still be sharp!! 6. If you don’t have a bench grinder you can use the little grinding stones that come with Dremel tools - it’s a bit slower but does actually produce a less rough finish I think. I never found any other use for them so I had loads. 7. Saw blade metal is hard so you need a bit of patience, if the metal isn’t hard it’s a clue that it probably isn’t up to the job. 8. Work the newly formed bevel and the back of the blade on a 400grit whetstone for some few minutes until you have the start of a sharp edge and most of the scratches from the bench grinder are disappearing. (In all of the following processes, work the back and the front of the blade equally). The back stays completely flat and the front will have a nice shallow bevel. 9. Then spend some minutes working on a 1000grit whetstone, ‘still looking to see scratches fading and the metal starting to shine up a bit. 10. Then 5 minutes on 3000grit whetstone, this isn’t taking much metal off anymore but it is clearing up scratches from the previous stones and improving the finish. 11. Then on to my course grinding-paste strop, this polishes good steel at an astonishing rate. By the time I’ve worked it on that for a few minutes I can see my face in the bevel and on the back edge of the blade, it is important to get both sides of the blade just as nice as each other - they are both equally involved in the cutting process while you are skiving your leather.. 12. Finally onto my fine ‘Tcut’ strop for a while. 13. Test it out, ‘probably won’t be great first time, but working it regularly on the grinding paste strop will fairly rapidly give you one pretty damn fine sharp edge. 14. Thinking about it a bit more, I think you just get better with the tool after a bit of practice more than the edge improving so much, either way is good though. The grinding paste is an automotive product which is available widely, ‘can’t remember off hand if I got this one from Amazon or Ebay - either way it’s literally just a couple of $/£. Tcut is another automotive product widely used to ‘refresh’ car paint by finely abrading the top layer of faded paint off, personally I prefer it to jewellers rouge, I reckon it’s better and cheaper and as it comes in liquid or cream form it’s easier to use and more versatile, it’s also GREAT for refreshing edges on things like edge bevellers and other tools with a recessed sharp edge. (soak a piece of string or leather thong in it then draw it along the recessed cutting edge a few times - in the right direction of course) The other skiver shown is an old woodworkers plane blade, again decent quality steel that holds an edge, this one was much easier to make as apart from giving it a good edge - the only thing I did was stick it in a vice, heat the middles section a bit with a torch, then tap it with a hammer to give a bend so I can hold it. I made it a while ago and it now has a completely evil edge that just gets a regular light kiss on the Tcut and an occasional go on the grinding paste. I also rounded the corners of the cutting edge just a tad as an experiment, I actually find it easier to control as the blade isn’t trying to dig into my granite or the piece of glass I usually skive on. I liked the result so most of my skivers are now the same. So there you go, with basic kit most of us will have already or have some access to it is possible to make extremely usable tools. Generally I buy my tools, as I’d rather be making stuff to sell than crappy second rate tools, however in this case I have managed to produce 3 top quality blades which I now use all the time. The exact grit grade of the stones doesn’t matter, as long as they’re progressively finer, clean your job between each stone as you don’t want to transfer course grit onto a finer stone. Even if you don’t fancy making your own skiver I hope there’s something here which will either help you improve what you do, or give you an idea that you can develop to improve what you do. Have fun and keep your fingers behind the edge! ‘Thrasher,

Hello guys, This is Jun from youtube channel "leathertoolz" (youtube.com/leathertoolz) I just made a series of video of review for CHARTERMADE skiving knife. go check them out if you are interested! Unboxing CHARTERMADE skiving knife (Part 1 of 3) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33D18GMT43Q Review of CHARTERMADE skiving knife (Part 2 of 3) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFzgHspR5ks Tutorial of CHARTERMADE skiving knife (Part 3 of 3) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQHjhktf3DA cheers!

I want to start buying a few nice tools over the next year or so. I don't own a head knife or a skiving knife - I've been using the super skiver from Tandy. Which knife do you guys find the most useful for skiving? I assume people like head knives because they're multi-purpose. I'm talking about a normal (or small one, which I'd probably prefer) head knife as opposed to the (for example) vergez blanchard high speed paring knife: And some prefer this: http://www.handtools-uk.com/product_info.php?products_id=1605

Recently I have been restoring some vintage machinery, including fitting new drive belts The belts are about 4mm thick leather, joined by steel clips . Each clip requires a hole or slot in each end of the belt; with two clips per belt that's 4 holes altogether The holes need to be 1/4" X 1/2" or about 6mm X 12mm Apart from the fact that I couldn't find a slot punch or crew punch of the correct size, they are quite expensive. So instead I went to the secondhand tool stall in my local market and bought a 1/4" wood chisel for £2. It was a bit dirty with surface rust, but once I'd cleaned it, underneath there was an excellent old Sheffield steel chisel, which sharpened to a razor edge I marked out the size with a scratch awl, then cut the slot, with a piece of scrap wood for a backing The stall holder was charging the same price for all the chisels; £2, about $3, regardless of the width. It occurred to me that for the same price and a bit of work you could get a 1" / 25mm chisel, or possibly a bit wider and have a very good and cheap skiving knife