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About Me

Found 15 results

  1. I've got TONS of unique, one-off leather for sale. A range of sizes and colors and finishes, great for small projects. I'm about to list some large hides in addition to the small and medium I have for sale. Right now I'm posting on eBay but would love to sell direct. Here is the eBay link- https://www.ebay.com/sch/racbec-61/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= Better photos coming soon too! There are MANY more than shown below. Email me: Rachael@heavyleathernyc.com
  2. Reclaimed "el cheapo" -chair, covered with 7-8oz leather. Airbrushed Tan spirit dye (narvfärg/narvsvärta/narviväri), border Fiebing's Chocolate Brown. Finished with Mahogany Antique & Aussie Wax. Had fun on this one, would love to make more of these.
  3. I am selling a TON of snakeskin hides. They are all about 4"-4.5" wide and 45-60" long. I am selling them at $20 a piece or if you want 5+ pieces I can give a discount. 10+ pieces and I'll discount even more, etc. Email me or message! Rachael@heavyleathernyc.com
  4. Has anyone attempted to tan their own snake skin? I've been researching through youtube mainly and found that practically all the tutorials are on rattlesnakes. I recently purchased three python skins from a taxidermist who only wanted the bones. I am attempting to tan them myself. So far I have only started with one to see if I can figure it out. Has anyone tanned both a rattlesnake and a python? The skins I got were not exactly "tube peeled" and so there is a very large band of tissue running down the spine. I tried to flesh it as best as I could. I got the fascia off for the most part but this band seems to be something else. At times I was able to get a bit lifted up and peeled off but in some areas no matter how much I scraped it would not come up. It was getting to the point where I began cutting some holes in the skin. I ended up leaving it on and I'm hoping that it works out. I put it in the tanning solution (50/50 isopropyl/glycerine), shook it twice a day for a week, and just pulled it out today to dry. In the video I watched the guy mentioned that when I pull it out I shouldn't smell anything but the isopropyl alcohol. I smelled the alcohol but there was also a hint of ... a death smell... not rotting, but dead. Have I totally messed it up? Should that smell have dissipated in the alcohol/glycerin solution? Here's the vid I watched on the solution portion:
  5. So, inspired by the top hat I saw here on Leatherworker that Windrider made, I finally got the kick to make my own. It helped that Nstarleather had just sent me a bunch of SB Foot leather that NEEDED to be worked with. I looked around online for patterns and styles, and decided for my first attempt instead of stitching I'd rivet the hat parts together. Not exactly a mistake, but definitely challenging without having some sort of supporting arm to put inside the hat for the last few rivets. I managed though, and by the time I was finished with them I was definitely getting a slightly different vibe from the more Londonesque Steampunk that I usually envision, especially once I put the "lantern" on. I'm rather proud of the "lantern", it's a flickering candle LED encased inside a bead that I had traded for from Cseeger, I believe it's an African brass cage bead. Added on some crystals and more leather, and bam, steampunky lantern that can be turned on and off from inside the hat! (I actually have plans for the next hat I make in regards to lighting, I think I've started up a new habit... The quetzalcouatl style snake is made from flat and seed beads in a double row, the "head" is made from moulted chicken feathers from my Easter Egger hen and another African brass bead. The crescent indents are scarring on the leather which I thought looked pretty neat, I'll be adding more stuff to that area in the future. The back was something I debated over, should I rivet it as well? I decided to go with a simple x with leather cord and reinforce the area with another strip of leather, keeping the hat size to a maximum since I want it to be a large sized hat and I still need to put a liner in the rim so the rivets inside don't get sweated directly on.
  6. firestormhcg

    Leather Telecaster Pickguard

    Made this custom tooled leather pick guard for a client as a gift for his bandmate and his Fender Telecaster. Can't wait to see it put on and on stage!
  7. Shots of a few wallets I recently completed. A few bi folds and an FHCG Slim Tuck.
  8. truenorth

    Snake Skins

    There was a member here that home tanned snake skins I think he was in Arizona maybe a retired veteran ring any bells?
  9. Hi this is my first complete project. Well, kind of complete, because it's a set of 2 and I'm still finishing the other side up. I made these for my buddy's 100th anniversary Fatboy as a Christmas present. He said he wanted a different kind of shape to fit the lines of the bike better. I've custom painted a lot of bikes, but never made bags for any. My dad was a master at tooling leather, so I thought with a little advice from him and my expertise in packaging design, it was possible. Obviously I had no idea on the amount of work involved. My friends wife bought all the leather. I did all the work. That was the deal. They loved the end result and I think it turned out pretty good for a first try. Obviously its not as clean as a lot of work I've seen on here. But I learned a lot from the hours and hours I've spent, reading everybody posts and looking at everybody's work here. So thanks. A Lot. Again, it's my first try at making anything out of leather and I know I made a lot of mistakes, but I learned a lot and I think the next set will be much better.
  10. This is a new wallet that I am working on for myself. This is designed and drawn by me. I still need to finish the edges but I think it is coming along nicely. Thanks for looking.
  11. I present here the two first prayer pipes (also called elbow pipes) I ever made, having carved the bowls in steatite (soap stone) - I never carved stone before that. The stems are made of various wood and materials, and those interested to know more about these pipes and how they are made can find a full description with more and better photos on my website. They are shown here with the pouches I made later on. These pouches are made of cow leather lined with a coated cloth and the decorations are of various stuff: hairy foal skin, dyed snake skin, chicken leg skin (I didn't even know it exists before I found some on an online shop!), glass beads (loom with heddle beading) and gemstone beads, feathers, hairpipes, fox fur, Corian... Fully hand sewn and own design with obviously and once more a strong Native Influence (many years ago a psychic,however right on so many things that could be verified, told me it was the very first time I was living as a white man! After all, perhaps that this influence comes from outside and inside...?)
  12. Hi all, Here is a hunter knife I made nearly twenty years ago with a truck shock absorber leaf for the blade - heated and clamped on a flat surface until it cooled down to remove the curve, Cocobolo wood for the handle, and bronze from the local metal scrap dealer with some bits of stainless steel for the pommel and the guard. It is fully hand made but the use of an angle grinder at the beginning to roughly remove stock before using files. This was the first and only knife I ever made. I made the sheath with leather that I molded the same way I used when working in the disability field in developing countries to make the sockets of the prosthesis (I worked as a technical trainer with NGO's). The leather is sunk in a bucket of water, and once it is totally soaked it is regularly twisted, bent, knead, trampled, tortured , etc. (the inflicted torments to soften the leather is only limited by your imagination - as long as they do not damage it! ), until it becomes elastic, therefore moldable. Usually this procedure is over a period of approximately 18 to 24 hours but it depends on the quality of leather. The leather is then stretched over an exact wooden model of the knife blade and maintained in place with 2 to 3 cm wide rubber bands cut from inner tubes to let it dry. Once nearly dry the rubber bands are removed and the fiber of the leather, which must still be wet at this stage, is tightened back through rubbing it thoroughly with a smooth piece of wood (for instance the handle of a hammer). This rubbing operation removes also the remaining water. Once fully dry the leather that took the shape of the mold is hard and can be covered. If I have time I'll shot a video to be posted on YouTube one of these days. I covered it with snake skin (yellowish and black) that I brought back from the Philippines - I didn't met its first owner, thus I don't know which brand of snake this was, lizard skin (light brown), and even a bit of fish skin (the disk on top of the front part sheath), luckily without the smell. The rest of the sheath is a piece of plastic (rigid while elastic) covered with white lizard, and blue lamb skin for the fringes and other smaller parts. Front and back parts are hand sewn together, but as you can imagine I had to drill holes on a drill press - no chance using an awl for such a thickness unless you are Hulk or Superman . You can see more realizations on my website (www.crafts-design.com) but I'll soon post some of them - with explications about the making-of as a bonus when possible, at least those concerning leather work, on this forum. And I will also post soon an introduction about stitching clamps I make I intend to market - I have first to translate it from French. Fred