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Found 3 results

  1. Does anyone have any suggestions for slowing down a Consew machine. I have reduced the size of the drive pulley as small as is possible. when sewing, the machine seems to lack torque to start, so you require lots of pedal, but then the piece takes off. Once you're sewing it is easy to throttle the machine back to a creep with delicate manipulation of the foot pedal. does anyone make a larger handwheel for these machines. I know sailrite makes one for their machine. It occurred to me to machine a 2 part pulley/disc/donutish sorta thing that could be bolted onto the existing handwheel, but I don't want to reinvent...the wheel!!!! Thanks, brent
  2. Not trying to beat a dead horse here but many of you folks have seen and commented on this video from you tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9y2Aapk7X8E&t=3s . The author makes claims and shows proof of concept for changing the pulley on the servo motor to a 50mm smaller one and instead of a standard speed reducer, he proposes changing the hand pull on the actual head to a larger one. He is using a consew 205RB-5 machine and after he changes out the pulleys, it does show a significant change in slowing down the system in a similar way that the generally accept method achieves. I recently purchased this machine and saw the video and it has been on my mind ever since. I have changed out the hand pull for a 6" one and will be changing the servo one later tonight before adding the correct belt. He makes the claim that no one is talking about this. He sort of infers that that is because all of the people he has spoken to that are in the business do not want to lose business if everyone starts doing this. Some of you have mentioned that the cost of the larger pulley for the head has gained because of the video and I myself have verified that the costs are certainly higher than is quoted in the video. I have also spoken to two people in the business representing consew and also an industrial sewing machine company doing business for 50+ years and both of them said " the machine was not designed to use a larger and heavier hand pull. Why don't you just do it the way that is widely used, proven, and readily available? " but they were either unwilling or unable to provide what I would deem a logical and acceptable explanation as to just HOW it would damage the machine. I personally am not a technician. I have spent maybe 5 solid hours watching "consew 206rb-5 maintenance video #1, and #2 while I had my thinking cap on and tools in hand under the proverbial "hood" of my machine. This qualifies me to be classified as a "caveman holding a rock but still having to wait for lightning before I get to use fire" compared to some of you cherished lifers. I can make no claims based on knowledge, experience, and understanding. that is why I am offering this subject up to public forum hoping some real technicians will respond and we all will learn and grow. inside the machine there are several places that are two moving parts each with a mark someone has made that should line up when the needle is in a certain a deliberate position. is it possible that a larger wheel mean less or more revolutions so these marks will no longer line up. ergo a timing or maintenance issue reason for not using a larger pulley? obviously showing my lack of experience not knowing if that would cause more or less RPM, but im trying to understand why??? Thank you all for your time and help. I need it.
  3. Hi Sewers, thanks for your interest - this is how I slowed-down and torqued-up my 120-2 with a cameo by my 105-27. I turned the huge hand wheel around to get it's v-belt groove closer to the machine so that the motor wouldn't have to be cantilevered too far. The first photo also shows the new bobbin-winder drive wheel which was in my pile for 20 years. I have no idea why I have it or what it's from. There's no reason to think it's for a sewing machine but it has just the right offset and is much nicer than the original plastic-hubbed Adler part. The second photo shows how tight the fit is. The swing arm is 1/4"x 1-1/2" stainless steel. I like to mount the intermediate pulleys on a swing arm so that the belts' lengths are not critical. The third photo shows the pulleys I turned out of aluminum, the smaller one is press-fit into the larger and has two bearings pressed-in; one each side. I try to use skate bearings whenever possible because they are common and inexpensive. If they can handle a 200lb knucklehead hucking massive air, they are up to this job. That's engineering. As I mentioned, it's my policy to not make any irreversible changes to a machine, so the positions of existing holes somewhat dictate the design. The big pulley has a hole in it for the hex key to tighten the swing arm pivot bolt. On the 105, I pressed-in a sintered bronze bushing for the pivot shoulder bolt but that was unnecessary for a pivot that's rated for 0 RPE (Revolutions Per Ever) The 120 has its big plinth with holes in opportune positions for the aluminum angle bracket on which I mounted the motor, controller and box of electronics. I milled vertical slots in the bracket to allow tensioning of the v-belts but one weakness of this design is that I have to remove the electronics box to loosen/tighten the motor bracket bolts. The controller is mounted diagonally so that the arm doesn't stick to far out the back and it doesn't intrude on the clearance between the spine of the machine and the needle. They are much more expensive than a regular rubber belt, but the twist-lock style belts allow me to vary the design as I go without a hundred trips to buy wrong-length belts. I like the twist-lock belts but they aren't too happy with small pulleys because they offer less contact area than solid rubber belts. I wipe contact cement or gasket dressing onto the contact surfaces, letting it dry before installing the belt, to make them a little stickier. But that's just me, Gary
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