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Woehlk

Pfaff 335 H2 complete rebuild thread

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So im making a new thread, with my projekt, hoping somebody will follow and maybe give some help or tips.

So here is the current state of the machine. My plan is to do a complete cleaning of the machine, re oiling, and maybe repaint at an auto shop. 
Also I re blueing the black parts.

I´m kinda anxious., because, the only other sewing machine I have taken apart, was a old Adler 30-7. And that was way simpler then this. I hope I can get some questions answered when the time comes!

I have a manual for the 335 H3, but so there is a lot of tiny things that's different. 

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Hi Woehlk and welcome, very nice machine there, the paint looks very good on your machine, if it was mine i would not repaint it but that is just my opinion. Have a look at this post, this could maybe help a little.

 

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7 hours ago, jimi said:

Hi Woehlk and welcome, very nice machine there, the paint looks very good on your machine, if it was mine i would not repaint it but that is just my opinion. Have a look at this post, this could maybe help a little.

 

Wow amazing thread Jimi!, wow you did an awesome job!. I bag all my screws in bags like you. So I know there they all go. My biggest fear os getting the timing right. Also, getting all the things in the house back :P

What was the worst part for you? 

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I agree with Jimi, I wouldn't repaint it as it looks pretty good to me. Plus if you're going to paint it you need to strip it down completely!

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So this is the state right now, she is almost naked now :P

I have cleaning all the things in the ultrasonic cleaner, and buffed it with the Dremel. 

I found the screws with holes in them filled with gunk!. referred to the manual, and I could se it was actually old decomposed wick. its a auto lubricating system. wow smart, even for the 1950!
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I won't be putting in cotton wig this time I think. I went to town, and there was a Vapeshop. you know these E cigaret things. and they sold synthetic wig, just the right size!, and its made for moving oil, perfect ! 

Only thing there is missing know, is taking out the big rod going through the machine. Im SO scared I won't be able to get it back the same way, there is no reference to where the things on the rod should sit!. But, im this far, might as well right? 
Also, im putting my trust in some of you could help me :youwish:;)

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Would not repaint it either but I repainted machines that others wont repaint as well so do not listen to me :whistle:In case of reselling (now or later) original painted machines usually bring more than "obviously refurbished" ones or machines with a "personal touch".

Holy smokes are you well organized. I usually put all parts in one bin and go from there :lol:

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15 hours ago, Woehlk said:

What was the worst part for you? 

Thanks....The worst part was getting the box with the black 335 with all the parts rattling inside and full of holes!!!:( the rest is just taking lots of pictures and trial and error, but i did not take the main shaft out so you will have to remember where it all goes afterwards :blink: its looking good!.... and they are great machines for wallets!

 

Edited by jimi

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5 minutes ago, jimi said:

Thanks....The worst part was getting the box with the black 335 with all the parts rattling inside and full of holes!!!:( the rest is just taking lots of pictures and trial and error, but i did not take the main shaft out so you will have to remember where it all goes afterwards :blink: its looking good!.... and they are great machines for wallets!

 

Don't think im going to take out the main shaft then. Its SO dirty inside. I wanna spray it down with a pressure washer,. when dying it out afterwards 

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24 minutes ago, Woehlk said:

Don't think im going to take out the main shaft then. Its SO dirty inside. I wanna spray it down with a pressure washer,. when dying it out afterwards 

I tend to do the minimum in that sense because if things get stuck and the casting breaks then you start thinking.. why did i want to take that part off if it was working Ok!!!:lol:

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Doing some cold blueing of some of the parts. Its SO fun! Feel like a kid discovering paint for the first time:lol:

Other then the things that was originally blued, Im blueing some details just for fun. Its not like anybody will ever se it other then me, but hey, gotta have fun right :P

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Another possibility, as long as the parts haven't been heat treated, is to heat them and drop them in oil (light engine oil, canola oil, olive oil - it doesn't seem to matter which one), this gives a nice black finish with some rust protection. It's a method used by folk who restore old stuff.

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23 hours ago, Woehlk said:

Doing some cold blueing of some of the parts. Its SO fun! Feel like a kid discovering paint for the first time:lol:

I thought I was the only one... :) Just love watching the finish magically appear.  I do it outside now because it smells so bad —not quite as much fun in January...

 

17 hours ago, dikman said:

Another possibility, as long as the parts haven't been heat treated, is to heat them and drop them in oil (light engine oil, canola oil, olive oil - it doesn't seem to matter which one), this gives a nice black finish with some rust protection.

THANK YOU!  We use a lot of heat treated parts, and I had NO IDEA how it was done.  Can you really never heat treat a part a second time?  ...and how do you clean off the oil without affecting the finish? (sorry for the interrogation, but this is fascinating).

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If a part has been heat treated, i.e. hardened and tempered, if you re-heat it you run the risk of removing the hardness and making it soft metal. If that happens the part will need to go through the hardening/tempering process again.

The heat carbonizes/carburizes the oil onto the surface which won't wipe off. Wiping the part with a solvent (mineral spirits, petrol etc) will remove the excess oil and should leave a blackened finish.

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6 hours ago, dikman said:

If a part has been heat treated, i.e. hardened and tempered, if you re-heat it you run the risk of removing the hardness and making it soft metal. If that happens the part will need to go through the hardening/tempering process again.

It's right at the edge of my brain...  If something has been heated and dropped in oil [and left to cool?] = "heat treated", couldn't you just repeat the process?  Or is this different from hardening/tempering?

 

6 hours ago, dikman said:

The heat carbonizes/carburizes the oil onto the surface which won't wipe off. Wiping the part with a solvent (mineral spirits, petrol etc) will remove the excess oil and should leave a blackened finish.

Very helpful... thanks! :)

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So I tried the new synthetic wig I bought, this is some strange stuff. cant burn, glows orange hot when put under heat :s

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The whetting capabilities are super!, much better then the cotton wick I testet. AND, it will not decompose and turn to dirt :guitar:

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The big hole at the top, I used some oil burner wick, that fit perfect in the hole :D 

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Also did a lot for cleaning, with some unknown green cleaner I got from the local auto body shop. Its nasty, makes the paint to goo is not rinsed with it water right after. 

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I am going ahead with painting it. I have chosen British Racing green in semi gloss. and ordered gold Pfaff decals. Its going to look amazing I think!. and since the color was invented in 1903, I thinks it appropriate enough. 

Of course, silver would be better, being the German color, but hey, I like the green. B)

 

 

Edited by Woehlk

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Nice work Woehlk! well done, its coming along gr8....:thumbsup:

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My apologies for taking this off-topic - Button Lady, if you search google you'll find everything (and more) that you'll ever want to know about heat-treating steel. In short, re-heating hardened steel can remove the hardening, it can be re-hardened BUT the process will depend on the type of steel used.

Back on topic, Woehlk, I'm impressed! You don't mess around, straight into the painting!:lol: Glad you know what you're doing.:)

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So here is the status, im sanding down by hand, getting it somewhat smooth to prepare for the primer. Im coating the primer myself, to self some money at the auto painters. 

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Have you considered Powder coating , its a much harder finish

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Yes I have. BUT, that would require taking all the paint and primer of. And I heard that is a vary hard job:unsure: Also, since going in the oven, I would have to 100% strip the machine. Right now, she have some of her cuts lefts :whistle:

 

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On 3/19/2022 at 6:00 PM, dikman said:

My apologies for taking this off-topic

The fault is mine alone —my apologies, Woehlk, and thank you for so graciously allowing this hijack from your absolutely STUNNING restoration and refinishing progress.  I am living vicariously through your work... *swoon*

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13 hours ago, ButtonLady said:

The fault is mine alone —my apologies, Woehlk, and thank you for so graciously allowing this hijack from your absolutely STUNNING restoration and refinishing progress.  I am living vicariously through your work... *swoon*

No problem :D we are all here to learn something, I dont mind :)

 

So, are you guys and gals ready for a little mistory?
I was ultrasonic cleaning the thread tension assembly and this pin was rattled loose. 

Manual says 3 pins needed, I now have 4. Soo, 2 options here. 

1. I somehow invented a duplicator machine!! :taptap:
2. The pin was use on some other part of the machine, and had hidden, and first noticed it when taking out the other part. if that's the case, where is it needed??

Also, hos is the back part supposed to fit? I can tighten it, and it rattles a little.

I fully admit, am not the sharpest tool in the shed, this could be obvious to you folks :rofl:

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do you have the one in here?

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So today was a productive day. Got her sanded, and went over the surface with a scotch pad. 
This is 1 coat of epoxy primer. When its light gray like that, you can really se all the little marks and scratches. 
I will putty the larger ones, and the filler primer should take out the small scratches. Im not going eccentric over this, at the end of the day, its a sewing machine, not a Car :guitar:

Doing primer work is vary forgiving, in the sense, that its easy to sand, go back and coat it again. Im still living the color painting to the pros

 

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