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My weekend project, a speed holster for my 617 revolver.  7 ounce leather with a 7 ounce lining.  Chocolate dye with two coats of resolene and final coat of Milk Oil. 

Not really needed for speed but that's the copy of an old holster design I did.  For this type of shooting the gun is not drawn from the holster.  I like carrying my gun on my hip instead of carrying a bulky box from position to position.

31522 holster.jpg

DSC_7780.jpg

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Nice holster I just came here looking for this exact thing for my new 617. 

I have a few questions. How thick is the welt one the bottom and can you post a picture of the back to show the belt loop? 

I have made all my cowboy leather so I want to make this one for steel challenge as it all new to me. 

Here is my main cowboy holster I could see if it fit in this and use it but I think the trigger will be exposed LOL 

jmv46pE.jpg?1

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The welt is 1/4 inch.  

Here's the back.  I used a clip because in Steel Challenge you don't draw, you start at 45 degrees.

I've decided not to use the clip and I'm making a new holster with a backing that's made of two thicknesses of 10 ounce leatherfor more straight.  It's 7 inches long and I fold the top to fit my 1 1/4 inch belt.  It's screwed to the holster with 3 t-nuts and 8/32 screws. 

Back of holster for C-More.jpg

Welt.jpg

Belt Loop Of Black Mamba Holster.jpg

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Thanks

That helps a lot thanks we just had our first match it was yesterday it was only 4 stages we still have snow, and got snow yesterday, I didn't go I am having tendon issues in my hand and trying to get them healed up before things really open up here in a month or so. I can still shoot my 10/22 and mklv but I really want to shoot my mew 617. 

So the 617 is not started from a the holster it's the same as the other rimfire and not other revolvers or center fires? 

So technically you don't need a holster it's just easier to carry between stages.  

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Exactly.  You compete with the rimfire autos.  

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I shot my first match last fall with my 10/22 and got hooked it was the last match of the year before the snow shut us down. We had one rimfire match at our club but they are run a little different and can be set up in one bay and shot just by moving the steel between stages. It's something we have at our club to get new shooters into steel and shooting in general. 

 

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On ‎3‎/‎21‎/‎2022 at 1:35 AM, AzShooter said:

The welt is 1/4 inch.  

Here's the back.  I used a clip because in Steel Challenge you don't draw, you start at 45 degrees.

I've decided not to use the clip and I'm making a new holster with a backing that's made of two thicknesses of 10 ounce leatherfor more straight.  It's 7 inches long and I fold the top to fit my 1 1/4 inch belt.  It's screwed to the holster with 3 t-nuts and 8/32 screws. 

Back of holster for C-More.jpg

Welt.jpg

Belt Loop Of Black Mamba Holster.jpg

Good idea on the leather belt loop.

Another approach I have used in the past for competition holsters (and police duty holsters) is reinforcing the holster back and the belt loop using strips of 20 to 24-gauge galvanized sheet metal (some HVAC shops will give away scraps, but you want the heavy stuff instead of the lighter metal typically used for duct work), and later with Kydex. A small panel encased in the holster back panel will keep the holster rigid and resist flexing over time. A strip encased in the belt loop from the holster attachment point upward and underneath the belt will keep the holster at a consistent angle and positioning. Assembly can be done with rivets or T-nuts and machine screws through both reinforced areas making a very strong connection.

I came to like the Kydex for this use. Easy to cut and shape, warm it up with a heat gun and pre-form it to any contour or angle you like to establish carry angle and offset from the body. On duty holsters with thumb-break retention a small strip of Kydex can be incorporated in the thumb-break as reinforcement. Kydex is very durable, impervious to moisture, and is dirt cheap (used to be under $2 per square foot, and that is enough for multiple projects).

Some of the competition and duty handguns can be quite heavy and that weight puts a lot of stress on the leather, over time causing excessive flexing and softening at the stress points.

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3 hours ago, Lobo said:

Good idea on the leather belt loop.

Another approach I have used in the past for competition holsters (and police duty holsters) is reinforcing the holster back and the belt loop using strips of 20 to 24-gauge galvanized sheet metal (some HVAC shops will give away scraps, but you want the heavy stuff instead of the lighter metal typically used for duct work), and later with Kydex. A small panel encased in the holster back panel will keep the holster rigid and resist flexing over time. A strip encased in the belt loop from the holster attachment point upward and underneath the belt will keep the holster at a consistent angle and positioning. Assembly can be done with rivets or T-nuts and machine screws through both reinforced areas making a very strong connection.

 

Thanks for the ideas.  I'll have to track down some Kydex and see how it works.  I appreciate the information.

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I changed the grips and tried the fit in my cowboy rig and I think since it's just for transport I am going to use this since I am wearing my cowboy hat shooting why not the holster as well :dunno: :lol:

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WDBd3oD.jpg?2

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Looks great.

 

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