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PAMuzzle

Tokonole

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I tried using Tokonole to smooth the flesh side of a western holster.  It worked great, made it real smooth.  However, when I wet the leather to fold it to sew the seam, the Tokonole turned liquidy again.  It had been drying for over 3 days.  I let it get tacky and burnished again.

Should I finish it with Resolene or Tan Kote before going any further?

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I had the same problem on the backside of a belt. Front side was dyed with Fiebings Dark Chocolate Pro Dye. The flesh side needed to be smooth and dark color. I used black Tokonole to get both. Glassed the Tokonole and got smooth and dark color. Looks great. Then I water tested with a damp paper towel and the black Tokonole transferred from the back side to the towel. I applied 2 light coats of Mop & Glo and there are no more color transfer issues. The edges had been burnished before doing the back side and the gloss dulled down from Mop & Glo. A light burnish with canvas on the edges restored the high gloss.

 

 

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This flexible, water-based adhesive is designed to finish the flesh side of leather.  I use it for bridle parts made of a single layer of 9-10 oz bridle leather, including bridle leather with a pasted or moss-back.  I apply it diluted 50:50 with water and work it into the fibers with a glass slicker.  After the first coat dries, I apply a second coat and smooth it over with a paper towel.  The adhesive penetrates several millimeters into the leather.  If you build several coats it will repel water and neatsfoot oil.  I am evaluating how well it holds up with tack but so far I am pleased with the results. 

IMG_5794.JPG

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Thanks guys.  I coated the western gunbelt with 3 coats of Resolene.  Seems to keep dye transfer from happening.  I coated holsters with 2 coats Resolene and still got rub off.  Am going to coat with 4 coats on each

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5 hours ago, PAMuzzle said:

Thanks guys.  I coated the western gunbelt with 3 coats of Resolene.  Seems to keep dye transfer from happening.  I coated holsters with 2 coats Resolene and still got rub off.  Am going to coat with 4 coats on each

Go into your Tee shirt drawer . . . find the two you like the least . . .  take them out to your shop.

On the next project . . . give it a light coat of neatsfoot oil before dying . . . use Feibings oil dye . . . dilute it 50/50 with their thinner . . . dye the project . . . 

Then take that white tee shirt that you cut up into about 8 pieces . . . and start "polishing" the project.

When you quit getting rub off there . . .  you wont' get any more rub off after your finish coats either.

And you won't have to put on any more than 2 light finish coats of resolene  unless you want to do more.

AT LEAST . . . this works perfectly well for me.

I do spend a bit of extra rubbing time though on all black projects.

Resolene also works well to smooth the inside of belts . . . it is my preferred product.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight

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On 3/27/2022 at 7:13 PM, PAMuzzle said:

I tried using Tokonole to smooth the flesh side of a western holster.  It worked great, made it real smooth.  However, when I wet the leather to fold it to sew the seam, the Tokonole turned liquidy again.  It had been drying for over 3 days.  I let it get tacky and burnished again.

Should I finish it with Resolene or Tan Kote before going any further?

Many products are what is termed re-emulsifiable.  They re-wet when a liquid is applied to them.  This can be a positive or a negative depending on circumstances.  In construction, some bonding agents for plaster and concrete re-emulsify and it helps the applied product bond more completely to the existing substrate.  Perhaps Tokonole is prone to re-wetting?  

I would try to get the manufacturer's input.  Perhaps they are well aware of the product uses and characteristics and already have a suggestion on how to handle it.  They might recommend a sealer be applied and they can tell you which type or types will give the best results.  

Or you can get feedback from people who have faced similar issues, but the advice you get is apt to be all over the board and in the end, just personal opinion.

I'd try to get something more definitive from the provider or the retailer.  Without a solution I can see even sweat causing the backside of the leather to become tacky and leaving stains on people's clothing.

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On 3/31/2022 at 8:23 AM, Dwight said:

On the next project . . . give it a light coat of neatsfoot oil before dying . . . use Feibings oil dye . . . dilute it 50/50 with their thinner . . . dye the project . . . 

I want to mess with getting different colors.  Does thinner lighten the color with those dyes?  When you use the thinner do you notice less rub off too?

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