Best thread?

[Rance]

Couple questions about thread.

My Adler 30-1 now sews like a dream and its time to put it to work.    While I was repairing it I read a number of posts attributing various problems to poor quality thread, which makes a lot of sense.  I'm planning on using primarily 92 and 138 polyester thread for various leather projects and maybe  occasional sewing of canvas, nylon webbing, backpack repair, etc.   I figure on using polyester, not that everything I sew will end up outdoors, it just minimizes the types of thread I'd need on hand.   A couple of spools will last me for years so its no problem dropping a few more bucks to avoid problems and cover the widest range of possible uses.

So then, what brands are the best (or least problematic) thread?

Apparently 138 is the heaviest thread a 30-1 can handle, correct?   

Is using bonded thread important?   

 I assume I need to adjust tension on the shuttle and on the upper thread for different sizes, correct?   Maybe easier to have a different shuttle for each size thread, huh?

Thanks!

[Wizcrafts]

I use a mixture of thread from various manufacturers, including: Cowboy, A&E, Amann and Superior Thread. All are good brands that can match colors across different sizes of thread. For instance, I have light brown Cowboy thread, in color code Y035, that is the identical shade of brown in sizes 69 through 277. Superior bonded nylon also matches across its range of sizes for a given color code and is nice thread.

When it comes to Adler 30 series patchers, the biggest thread I have ever run is #207, in my Adler 30-7. I had to use a #24 needle and rotate the throat plate to the large hole to clear the nail size needle. The bobbin only held a handful of 207 thread, but enough to get the small job done. It has less stress with #138 bonded thread and works so much easier with #69 or #92 thread. Your machine has a small bobbin and has about half the thread capacity as my large bobbin 30-7. You should limit your small bobbin patcher sewing to #69 or 92 thread, except for emergencies where #138 is needed for a few yards.

I do keep a bunch of loaded shuttles with different thread sizes and colors. However, 90% of the time I have #69 prewounds in the shuttle and either #69 or 92 on top. I mainly use my patcher to sew embroidered commercial patches onto vests, jackets and hats, or to repair purse straps.

The top tension adjustment nut may be limited in how far down it can be turned and still be able to lift the foot all the way up and keep it there between sewing ops. If the top tension is not strong enough to pull the knots up, I reduce the bobbin tension, or direction in the shuttle.

The take-up adjustment device adds or subtracts slack thread on the upstroke that makes it easier to feed thick work and maintain a given stitch length and surface tension. You set it to the top for thin work and move it downward for thicker jobs. Forcing extra thread with this slack adjuster also increases the top tension somewhat.

As for bonded thread only, that is not a given fact. In the late 1800s and early 20th Century, the same type of machine was used with linen thread. There was no synthetic thread back then. I have a bobbin that I got second hand that is wound with straw colored linen thread that looks to be about the equivalent of size 92 to 99. It is glazed, like the Barbour's Irish linen thread I used to use in my Union Lockstitch machines. when I owned them.